July Chat Thread: 45 And Rising

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > July Chat Thread: 45 And Rising

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

In the neverending quest to find a route to/from school that doesn't involve toll roads, I tried a road that's mostly industrial. I knew it was closed because of high water last month, but we haven't had a decent rainstorm in awhile.

This... this may not be such a good idea. Wait, is that a CAR?

Car. One that looks like it was fully submerged at one point. :stare:

I did a "oh hell no" and turned around.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 05:24

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:42

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Dannywilson posted:

Is... Is that salt?

Mud/sand. We've had more rain so far this year than all of last year combined, it has caused a ton of flooding. There's still a lot of lakefront recreation areas closed due to high water around the state, but particularly in/around DFW. Trucks are still using this road quite a bit from the looks of it, so a lot of that is just mud that's been splashed on the car as they drive by. Looks like it's been clipped at least once now too, though it's well off the road (may not have been before getting clipped).

I'm pretty surprised the city has left that car sitting for so long. Up close you can see water marks on it as the water receded, so it's been there at least a couple of weeks.

This particular road (Luna Rd in Dallas, between NW Highway and Royal Ln, for DFW goons) runs near a river that was way above flood stage during the worst of it. I just checked, it's still a bit above flood stage at the nearest NWS measurement point (which is several miles north).

Arriviste posted:

That is some beautiful, eerie poo poo right there. GTFO, indeed.

If you want eerie, I used to do urbex all the time, and have quite a few creepy photos on various websites.

My favorite site to visit is an old meat packing plant that shut down in the... early 70s? It was, at one time, a filming location for Prison Break. Sketchy as poo poo to get in now though (lots of cops always around, and it's so overgrown that it's way too easy to fall into one of the many pits on the property), so I haven't been in several years.

And congrats on the judge letting you drive!

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jul 1, 2015

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 05:46

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

The Locator posted:

DUI (because he had the keys in the car he was sleeping in out in the woods)

This is really common if you get caught sleeping in your car and there's ANY suspicion you may be under the influence of something (and you have keys on/near you - "near" being anywhere in the passenger compartment, generally).

I've wound up sleeping a few hours in my car after leaving a bar more than a few times, but I always lock the keys in the trunk for this very reason. That way the keys aren't on your person, nor are they within reach of you, and you can always hit the trunk release on the dash/floor/glove box/etc to get to them once you've sobered up. Or if you can't do that, you can always lock the main keys in the trunk, and hide a spare somewhere outside of the car (to open the trunk).

Of course, at that point, you're still going to get a public intox, since the cop is already obviously looking for something to nail you with, and they may still try to hit you with a DUI, but it's a lot easier to fight when the keys weren't even on you or in the passenger compartment.

That all goes out the window if there's :420:

involved, but even when camping, I try to bring as little as possible with me, and keep it in something a little beefier than a sandwich bag when it comes to odor.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 07:54

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Anyone have recommendations for decent offline navigation apps for Android? The ones I've tried so far seem to want me to drill down by Country -> State -> County -> Street Name -> Nearest Intersection, instead of just letting me type in a drat address.

My phone is shut off until the rest of my paycheck clears (Friday - after-hours deposits only make $200 available, rest shows up after 2 full business days - I deposited my check at 5:15pm, and I needed to pay more important bills with the $200 they made immediately available), and no wifi at work, so I'm kind of stuck unless I find a decent navigation app.

e: if anyone wants to know why I didn't just wait until business hours to deposit the check (which would have made the full amount available immediately), my medical insurance was going to get cancelled at midnight unless I got caught up. And I slept too late to make that happen today. :sigh:

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jul 1, 2015

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 08:16

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

mafoose posted:

The scion xb looks like a golf ball with all those dents...
The euro cars faired munch better, but are still going to need a lot of work.

You did have comprehensive on everything, right?

... right? :ohdear:

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 11:00

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

bennyfactor posted:

Dude you need to get an account with a bank or credit union that has a mobile app with remote check capture. I'm sure there's plenty of decent small banks/CUs in DFW that have this and aren't assholes like Wells Fargo. The company I work for has some credit union clients in DFW and, while we don't currently do any of their mobile banking apps, this one and this one do have appear to have mobile deposit. Even if neither of these CUs have branches near where you live/work, after you join you can do whatever you need a branch for at any other credit union that has a sign for CO-OP Shared Branching, or CU Service Centers or however it's currently branded.

I do have a credit union with remote check capture. The problem is, they only make $200 available immediately if you make a deposit via any other means than handing it to a teller or by direct deposit - whether it be via ATM, mobile deposit, etc. My employer doesn't do direct deposit.

ITCU is nearby (the closest branch shares a parking lot with my current credit union actually - Texans), but I left them due to member service issues. I don't qualify for membership with City (I don't live in a county that they serve). I really don't have any complaints with Texans, aside from their online banking being a little laggy in terms of showing transactions where I ran my debit card as credit. That and the >$200 hold. That hold also applies to cash deposits at an ATM, and my stepdad has noticed the same thing with them, so it's not just me.

I would have just waited to take it in today and deposit it in person, but I had to make a payment on my medical insurance by 11:59 PM last night.

Arriviste posted:

Here.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

Darchangel posted:

Is that the one over in north Fort Worth, across the road from a dude ranch?

Nope. This is a bit south of 635, in Dallas, close to Farmer's Branch.

fjelltorsk posted:

to clear up, we where driving on a road where overtaking is legal, except when in no pass zones. this bend is a no pass zone and it is marked as a hazardous corner with a 30km/h suggested speed (very common sign in Norway, sharp turn with suggested 30) The dude driving the Audi had his license revoked nearly on the spot. but as his friend was paralized and airlifted and they both had to be cut out of the car. (rolled roof, fast extract with two trucks pulling for those playing armchair firefighters) i guess they waited untill on the hospital. the driver of the semi gave a statement to the police that probably carried more weight than mine sine i was in full "he nearly killed my kids" mode when first interviewed by the cops.

Regarding talking to tesla, i have actually filled out a form and made a statement that they requested. I was really impressed with the way the cabin held up from the crash. i dont have any pictures atm but i will try to grab some when i get to empty my car at the lot. the footwell stayed nearly true to shape and my feet are only bruised lightly. My face is kinda messed up from debris and airbag deployment and i can feel every fiber of my chest from the belt tensioner. I was probably able to reduce the kinetic energy somewhat buy putting my car in the barrier on the left. unfortunately this made for a pretty solid overlap on the fronts. probably should have stood my ground. The thing that impressed me the most was that all four doors on the tesla opened, and two of them acutally closed and locked.

Glad to hear you and the kids walked away from that with just some broken bones. That's about the best outcome you can possibly get from a head on accident... as the driver/passenger of the Audi learned.

Look at it this way, if you had stood your ground and not tried to swerve, you may have been spun into the truck (if you were, then possibly a lot harder).

# ¿ Jul 2, 2015 00:20

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

bennyfactor posted:

Well, it's good to hear that you do have RDC, at least, even with that sucky $200 limit. Since it affects ATM deposits its probably something imposed by your credit union's ACH partner / correspondent service, which is like a credit union for smaller credit unions who don't want to, or aren't big enough to be able to, handle all the inter-bank stuff.

I also have a USAA account, but they won't let me use RDC. They claim it's because of "hundreds of overdrafts in the past two years"... when I can count overdrafts on one hand (one is too many, but if I'd had "hundreds of overdrafts", wouldn't I have been dinged for more than 3 NSF fees? Their statements are incredibly terse and don't show running balances anyway). Seriously starting to hate USAA at this point, the only thing I really like about them at this point is if you run a debit card as credit at a gas pump, the final amount still shows up within 5 minutes.

And yeah, it's probably something above the credit union. Texans is one of the older CUs in North Texas (they date back to 1953), but they came very close to bankruptcy several years ago, got taken over by NCUA, and returned to local control a few years ago. NCUA has also sued the former CEO of Texans CU for poo poo dating back to well over 10 years ago. Texans is actually pretty average sized in terms of local credit unions; a big part of my decision of going with them is they have those ATMs that accept cash/check deposits directly, instead of needing every deposit to be hand-approved. AFAIK they're the only credit union in my immediate area (there's 3 CUs in my immediate area that are local) that has those ATMs.

I try to stick with credit unions in general. My favorite to date has been DATCU (Denton Area Teachers Credit Union); I'm still eligible in two ways - I'm a former member, and I "worship" in Denton county - but the closest branch is 30 min away, and their ATMs don't have the money gobblers at the ATM. Their online banking beats the poo poo out of anything I've ever used at any bank/CU, even USAA (which beats the poo poo out of Chase).

Since you seen familiar with CUs. the ones I've used since I've moved here have been Community Credit Union (which changed to a for-profit bank about 13 years ago, and was bought out by Legacy Bank Texas last month), DTCU (Dallas Teachers Credit Union, then changed to Credit Union of Texas, and their online banking is straight from 1996), DATCU (Denton Area Teachers CU, now public), ITCU (InTouch Credit Union, which you suggested), and now Texans CU.

I'm actually really, really tempted to go back to DATCU. I don't live or work in Denton county anymore, but my church is in Denton Co (which qualifies me for membership, even if I wasn't a former member), and they have a branch 30 min from home. I plan to move back up there in the near future anyway.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jul 2, 2015

# ¿ Jul 2, 2015 03:49

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

the spyder posted:

I need a new fridge. Our 20 year old Amana is just falling apart. Home Depot has a Samsung on sale, but our drat cabinets are 68" and every fridge I can find is 70". Suggestions? I've resigned to the fact I will be shortening the cabinet above the fridge.

We ran into the exact same issue (along with depth issues) when our old fridge crapped out (compressor was having issues starting, and would often take so long to start that the fridge would get up to 60+).

Turns out they were including the handles in the measurements (which can easily add an inch to the top). Take a tape measure with you just to be safe, but you'll probably find that a "70 inch" fridge will fit into your 68" cutout just fine. Just measure from floor to the top of the body, and make sure the levelers are screwed all the way in (leaving it sitting on its wheels). And obviously measure your cutout from the floor to the bottom of the cabinet. Subtract 1/8" or so to leave enough room to maneuver it easily.

I'd personally avoid Samsung and LG. They look nice, but they're known for failing just outside of warranty, and for generally being expensive to repair. Most brands you'll find in the US that you typically associate with US companies have been purchased by Electrolux or Whirlpool at this point (with Whirlpool owning most of them - including Amana; GE's appliance division was very recently sold to Electrolux). If you go to Ikea, their appliances are also Whirlpool. Same if you go with Home Depot's store brand (Admiral, though obviously Admiral wasn't always exclusive to HD - Admiral is also owned by Whirlpool at this point). Whirlpool and GE are the two main companies behind Kenmore (which to the best of my knowledge, has never manufactured anything on their own, they just re-badge major appliances as Kenmore).

# ¿ Jul 2, 2015 09:03

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

e: ^^^^^^ it's not a 2.5" or mSATA drive, it's 1.8", which is an oddball form factor. Got that much just by typing the p/n into Google.

Ugh. Ignored the tire with a nail in it just a bit too long. Started losing air really quickly today. Discount was reluctant to patch it since it was down to 3/32 (at its highest spot), but said they would if I couldn't afford a new tire right then on the spot. That tire has a nasty flat spot on it, so I wanted to replace it anyway. Their initial price was $2 more than what I had on me (my tips from today), so the guy at the counter worked some kind of voodoo magic to get it down a little more. So one new tire today, and I go back sometime next week to get the other front tire replaced (which is equally worn and flatspotted). 2 1/2 hour wait though :stonk:

- I was bullshitting with the manager at one point while waiting, and I asked him what time he thought everyone would actually go home. "I brought a sleeping bag with me." drat. I got there a little after 4, and left around 6:30 - 30 minutes after close - and every bay was still full, with a parking lot of cars waiting.

Lightbulb Out posted:

edit: It even says what it is thing 128gb uSATA MLC

uSATA seems to mean 1.8" form factor? I'd never even heard of it until I googled the part #.

CharlesM posted:

Well I've looked at the service manual etc, they all say 4GB max but sometimes stuff works anyway...

I didn't realize it had a 1GB chip on the board. I doubt it'd work with 9GB. Oh well.

What form factor is this drive?

It doesn't look like the mSATA when I look at those on Newegg, etc.

Typing the model # into Google says it's a 1.8" thin uSATA drive (the gently caress is that?). Looks like it's something only Dell, Sony, and IBM used. 64GB and 128GB are the most common ones, they get incredibly expensive once you pass that mark if you can find them. The 128GB ones are dirt cheap on ebay, but anything bigger is going to be pretty expensive. I found some adapters that will let you fit a mSATA drive into a uSATA slot, if that helps - the uSATA drives are obscenely expensive compared to nearly every other type.

Go to crucial.com and either punch in the specs, or use the system analyzer. It'll tell you what RAM they've confirmed will work with it. You'll definitely need a 64 bit OS install to take advantage of anything over 4GB total.

Fo3 posted:

I used to repair samsung whitegoods.
I own a LG washer and dishwasher. I find LG more reliable honestly, and spare parts are insanely cheap compared to other brands when dealing with out of warranty repairs at least too.

That said, it's all much of a muchness, I would buy a samsung fridge if I had the money for a new large side by side one (depending on model - twin cool only) because I know the devils.
What matters most is buy something that has local backup, repairers and spare parts stocking to where-ever you live, or a retailer that will exchange/replace things that fail under warranty .
I'm comfortable with either because I know how they work, and would edge towards LG first unless samsung's price and features were heaps better E: and I knew there was a local repairer that could fix them and have spare parts in a day or so - it's not always the case though.

Samsung and LG both have such a small (but rapidly expanding) footprint in the US whitegoods market that parts generally have to be ordered - often from out of state, sometimes from Korea. Both have a pretty terrible reputation for reliability with their refrigerators. I would imagine they've been in Australia for much longer, particularly with washers/dryers, as front load washers seem to be much more common there.

Darchangel posted:

Huh. Hadn't seen/heard of that one.
Swift meat packing plant near the Stockyards is the one I mentioned, as it's the one (or one of?) they used for Prison Break:
http://rust2.com/?p=612

What's the problem with Chase's online banking? I don't have any problem with them, though I may have low expectations.
I love the ability to deposit checks from my phone, for instance.

I was tired as hell and thought you were referring to Luna Rd for some reason. :downs:

Yeah, Swift is what I was talking about. I've been there plenty of times over the years. This is a set of photos from my last visit, circa 2010.

Chase's online banking was never bad, though honestly it's been so long since I told Chase to go gently caress themselves that I don't really remember what I disliked about their online system. Pretty much every bank/CU these days should offer mobile deposit; I know Texans CU (primarily Collin County) does. I had massive issues with Chase's customer service and draconian fees, since I don't keep enough money in the bank they wanted to charge a monthly fee. I don't like monthly fees for a basic checking account, especially when they're already getting a per-swipe fee for every debit/credit transaction I make (I generally pay with my debit card, makes it easier to keep track of how I'm spending my money). I average at least a few card swipes a day; I know a good chunk goes to middlemen, but they're still getting a decent chunk. My CU gives you free checking if you just sign up for paperless statements.

bennyfactor posted:

If you're a former member then you should still qualify for membership, AFAIK. It looks like their main ATM network membership is allpoint, basically any 7-11 ATM is going to be surcharge free, and several others. Their site just directs you to Allpoint's stock ATM locator, which is kind of garbage (building the backend for ATM/branch locators is one of the things I do for work). It doesn't look like they're a member of a shared branching network, so you'd actually have to go up to Denton if you needed something more than an ATM, but I might just not be seeing the right information. And yeah, a lot of small-to-medium credit unions have ancient-looking online banking, usually sold by the same, or a related, vendor to who makes their core � the thing that keeps all the account/transaction balances. But then, if those vendors actually knew how to make good looking, modern, responsive, useful online banking systems I'd be out of a job

DATCU had one of the best online banking systems I've ever used (one I've never seen elsewhere), the only one that was comparable is USAA's. And you're right in that they're not part of shared branching. I think Texans can receive shared branch deposits, but you can't make them from Texans? And Texans is also on Allpoint.

Even if I can't rejoin just because I was a member at one time (I do think you're right on that one though), one of their qualifications is "attend church in Denton County". Once I have a job with direct deposit, I'll probably go ahead and re-open my old account.

Texans is using Digital Insight's online banking platform (which is also used by Legacy Bank, formerly Viewpoint Bank, formerly Community Credit Union). Not sure what their backend is, but I know a lot of the online banking features take you to Intuit-hosted sites, and both Legacy Bank and Texans CU use NCR ATMs (though I'm sure any decent ATM can be setup to communicate with drat near any backend). It'd be nice to be able to manually enter transactions that you know are going to hit (such as an automatic debit, or from swiping your card at the gas pump) like you can with USAA's, I get bit in the rear end now and then when I forgot how much I spent on a fillup.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 3, 2015

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 02:16

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

If the SSD is dead, just google the part number and follow the first ebay link. They're all over ebay for <$50.

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 02:33

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

What year is the xB? Might be a write-off, but worth buying back if the glass damage is minimal.

The last adjuster I worked with owned a few body shops before he got into claims, and seemed to know his stuff pretty well. Especially when it came to how well 3rd party vs OEM parts fit, and specced OEM for a few parts that he knew would be a PITA to make look right.

Also gave me some good advice. "The insurance company doesn't care if you fix it or not, as long as you don't try to file a claim for the same damage again - in their eyes, you'll be made whole by the check - so if you decide not to fix it, consider the check as covering the depreciation from the damage". I took that advice to heart (and might have used a chunk of the check to actually get the car running again, it hadn't moved under its own power in over a month). In my case, someone whacked it in a parking lot hard enough to push the back end into the next parking space, and to cave in the RR door and a bit of the rear quarter panel.

Isn't the csi black? I would think bright daylight would help with spotting hail damage on anything that's not white. Or am I thinking of someone else's csi?

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 02:52

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Ugh. I started smelling gas around the back of my car today. Pretty strong smell, but can't pinpoint if it's the driver or passenger side. There's a TSB about the filler neck cracking, but that would also trigger an EVAP leak code, and there's no pending codes in the ECU.

I'm going to have to crawl under it and see if something got pinched/crushed when Discount Tire had it yesterday. I didn't get to see if they put it on one of their mini lifts or had to lift it with jacks, since I was waiting for nearly 3 hours (never saw it get pulled in/out).

Went out and blew some cash on fireworks. The last time I bought fireworks, there's always been somewhere along a highway to shoot them, so I asked the sheriff in the parking lot where I could shoot them off legally. "You gotta have a buddy that owns land in an unincorporated area - you can't shoot them from any public property, and every city around here bans them".

Whaaaat?! When I was growing up, we used to just shoot them off from the side of the highway outside of town. And it's a $2500 fine if you get caught possessing them in most cities in TX. I asked if I could shoot them by the lake, they said that since that's US Army Corps of Engineers property, that's a "hell no".

There used to be a fireworks stand about 3 miles down the road from there that had a huge field (~25 acres) you could fire them off in, but that area got annexed into the nearest city last year.

QuarkMartial posted:

Apparently we also started stocking intake manifolds for the newer Ford V8s. They're plastic, crack easily, and do so enough that it's actually a fiscally good decision for an auto parts store to stock them instead of having them only at regional hubs. Who knew

Hopefully the Dorman replacement - they're supposed to be a lot stronger.

bennyfactor posted:

Yeah, DI used to be owned by Intuit and was recently sold to NCR. FIS, Fiserv, and Jack Henry/Netteller are the other big white-label online banking providers. I'll have to look into what DATCU is using, I'm intrigued. And yes, ATMs can be tied into whichever core banking product, although I wonder if NCR is going to try and figure out some lock-in now that they own DI (their ATMs are better than diebolds, anyway, in my personal opinion. I just code stuff to show where ATMs are, I don't actually have any interaction with the ATMs or their middleware themselves).

At least from a user interface standpoint, I do prefer the NCRs over any others I run into (and most NCR ATMs I see seem to all use the same UI, just with the colors changed around for that particular bank). My biggest gripe about the newest NCR ATMs is their bill acceptors (for deposits) seem to jam or miscount really easily when first deployed; one of Texans' ATMs jacked about $50 over a month from me, and while I did get the money back, it was a pain in the dick having to wait for them to audit it (and it would sometimes start spitting bills back out.. one at a time.. with no warning, AWESOME when it's windy). This has happened at pretty much every branch since they upgraded to the latest models.

DATCU uses Hyosung, which I'd never even heard of before I joined. The UI of an 80s Diebold - I'm sure they COULD make the interface nicer, but I'm guessing they just don't care enough to.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 05:23

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

rndmnmbr posted:

I hate to be a debbie downer, but godspeed the day fireworks are banned period. Yes, let's put notable amounts of thermite and low explosives in the hands of idiots, and set the holiday they're to be used on in the driest and windiest part of the year, and make the holiday one of the biggest drinking days of the year, there's no way this can go wrong.

I loved them when I was a kid, but I'm in my mid-thirties now and I value having all ten fingers and a house that hasn't burned down. Leave the pretty explosions to experts.

e. note that I live in a town that was half-destroyed in a wildfire last year, and it turns out the cause was a drug-using parent letting their "emotionally troubled" child play with year-old fireworks. So I'm probably biased.

I avoid the big poo poo, and I've always tried to remain responsible with them. Always keeping a bucket of sand handy, etc. I don't do artilleries or anything like that, just basic firecrackers, sparklers, etc. I keep my fireworks pretty drat boring.

The exception being roman candles - it's entirely too much fun to have a good old roman candle fight with friends. Just make drat sure you're wearing at least 2 shirts, and not wearing shorts... though these days someone will call the cops immediately anyway.

I wish I'd just gone for sparklers, I can at least get really creative with photography with them. I have some morning glories, but not a whole bunch (I think I got a dozen) - I'll probably grab more tomorrow.

Mid-late 30s here, not that it really matters much.

We can buy fireworks from ~June 24th(?) to July 4th, and also around New Years.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Jul 4, 2015

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 06:47

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'm pretty pissed off at this sunburn.

Itches like hell, peeling, but scratching is not an option. And I have these weird white streaks/patches on my arms and neck now (not related to peeling). :confused:

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 07:35

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Finally saw a document at work that shows how the owner came to decide upon how much we should be paid per delivery. Supposedly this document is supposed to be readily available, but I've never seen it even when asking about it; pretty sure it was left out on accident.

It lists every car associated with every employee that's qualified to deliver, along with expected miles for its age, and "Kelley Blue Book Value". And "Depreciation per mile".

We have 3 employees with 2015 Fords, and 1 with a 2014 Ford. There's a 2014 and 2015 Ford Mustang 5.0, and two 2015 Ford Focus STs. The 2015 5.0 is listed as being worth $17k, and has under 500 miles on the odometer (it's also loaded with drat near every option). The 2014 is shown as worth $10k. The Focus STs are shown as worth $13k (both have under 1k on the odometers). :what:

The company has the full VINs, so it's not like KBB can't figure out the trim levels.

They actually listed $0 as the value for a driver's 1997 Saturn, and showed its expected mileage to be around 190k (it has 300k). Then showed a little north of $500 for the value of someone else's 1987 Oldsmobile, showing 390k miles (it has an honest <80k, literally "little old lady drove it to church and back" car, though it's more iron oxide than steel since he bought it in Michigan - ice cold a/c though).

Apparently what we get paid per delivery varies depending upon how new our cars are, and it's different for every store now (it used to be the same at every store he owned in the area, except for one that had a huge delivery area).

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 08:39

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Oh christ. So a friend of mine just posted on Facebook about getting pulled over, and why it was illegal for the cop to give him a ticket, because he had entered another county. He got out of it without a ticket, probably because (a) he was polite and (b) he was on a motorcycle and actually stopped (and mentioned the cop was letting him go with a verbal warning because he actually stopped).

.... I spent 10 years doing delivery in that city. About half of the land inside the city is in the county he got pulled over in, that suburb can actually lay claim to being one that covers 3 counties. The only thing he MIGHT have been able to use to get out of a ticket is if the cop hit his lights before or after he entered the next city.