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What's the elevation where you're at? And they didn't happen to mention NOx readings, did they?
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Nov 18, 2015 13:32
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I suppose none of this matters since you are failing load test, not idle test, but wow. I've never used a solex carb, and I am suprised about having idle air and fuel adjustments (rather than a simple bypass/mixture setting), without having an idle air and fuel jets - or do they have idle fuel and air jets like webers? If your carb does, is it also like weber carbs and have a main emulsion tube? The emulsion/mixing tube holds the main jetting assembly (holed brass tube that the air jet presses into on top, fuel jet presses in on the bottom) It controls how air and fuel mixes under load. Is there anything like that in the solex that could be replaced to help with the failing emissions under load? E: Regardless, if I was in your position, I'd try fitting larger air jets rather than the fitting smaller than stock fuel jets. Besides, easier to file spare air jets larger with an oxy tip cleaning file or something, rather than buy smaller fuel jets. Then of course putting regular air jets back in after passing the test. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 13:55
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some texas redneck posted:What's the elevation where you're at? And they didn't happen to mention NOx readings, did they? Around 1500 feet for the vast majority of the metro Phoenix area. They don't give you a NOx reading on old stuff that doesn't get tested for it, even though it's the same machine they use for later vehicles that do get tested for it. Fo3 posted:I suppose none of this matters since you are failing load test, not idle test, but wow. Huh? He's failing idle, not loaded.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:39
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I've been failing loaded on the 34, but idle with the last two tests with this 30/31. The Solex has both a pilot jet, and an air correction jet. In addition, it has a power fuel jet, which is kind of a second main jet that corrects the air correction jet at WOT. I took the 122 main and the 50 pilot jets from the 30/31, and put them in the 34 in hopes it will now pass. It had 125 main and a 55 pilot.
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Nov 18, 2015 19:04
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Again, TheSamba veterans continue to say I'm wrong.asiab3 posted:Regardless of the position or country of origin, the large brass screw adjusts the VOLUME of air and fuel combined. The small brass screw adjusts the fuel into the idle bypass circuit. That's all. (This means the speed is controlled with the big brass "volume" screw, and the mixture AND speed affect each other, so the final mixture will involve narrowing inwith both screws.) And my response: quote:Then why is the large screw called the bypass screw and the small one the volume screw? From this picture, it looks like the small screw is the final air/vacuum adjustment, and the large screw (bypass) affects the total amount of mix pulled in. Let's wait for responses. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 23:40
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And a reply:asiab3 posted:Cool, I guess I don't know how to tune my carb. So I said: Geirskogul posted:Did you read through my post, or assuming I was simply attacking you? I can't get your tone, and don't understand if you're being sarcastic, or genuine. This isn't an attack, simply an explanation for the confusion (and completely oppsite views) that surrounds this circuit that I see in both old posts (through searching) and new posts. Hopefully through my explanation people will understand that both views are correct, depending on which carburetor they have. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7892957#7892957 Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 23:47
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HOLY poo poo THESE GUYS ARE INSUFFERABLE. They post videos for evidence but DON'T EVEN WATCH THE VIDEOS else they'd understand that they PROVE MY loving POINT No more internet for today. I forgot why I gave up all other forums/discussion channels, but now I remember.
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Nov 19, 2015 05:35
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So the guy offering to do the video with the wideband in the loop is offering to show his 30 pict 3. What is its country of origin, and how does its piping relate to your 34 pict 3? Can you get him to run it all the way in and out? You might get a curve out of it.
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Nov 19, 2015 06:33
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He posted the video, and even did a snarky "ooh, smells rich" bullshit with it. Yes I know how a loving 30 PICT 3 works it is direct and simple. A 34 PICT 3 is also kinda simple, but a little less direct, and all adjustment videos can be rendered moot if the idle adjust screw (on the throttle arm) is too far in, or too far out, or the idle is too high, or the idle is too low, or the air filter is dirty, or there is an intake vacuum leak, or the valves aren't adjusted right, etc, because that circuit relies on very specific amounts of vacuum. That's fine. I know what to do from herein, and my problems stem from having jets that were quite too large. I just wanted to clear up confusion for future googlers, but instead I think I'll edit all of my posts over there out. After nasty PMs, emails, and posts, i'm done.
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Nov 19, 2015 06:59
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Just tell them thanks for the guidance but you've decided to swap to a far superior engine.
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Nov 19, 2015 07:16
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Cakefool posted:Just tell them thanks for the guidance but you've decided to swap to a far superior engine. Good idea, but I've taken option B. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 07:22
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Ha, fuckers deleted my account, and all of my posts. Good job, TheSamba. You truly live up to your reputation of an old dog that bites and refuses to learn new tricks 
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Nov 19, 2015 08:20
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Well, that escalated quickly.
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Nov 19, 2015 08:32
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Post one thing that might contradict common knowledge (hell, one guy in that thread even agreed with me, and stated airflow can change direction in the "bypass holes" depending on throttle valve position, which matches with what I was saying) and they shut you out. Confirming that brand-specific forums are all poo poo.
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Nov 19, 2015 10:01
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What a bunch of assholes. But, you're right, that's pretty typical of any brand-specific forum. There's always one or two people there who have a lot of knowledge but are total douchenozzles about it.
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Nov 19, 2015 10:50
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Wow, that's a new level of douchebaggery. Most brand specific forums I'm on will only ban you, not delete everything you ever said. Have you considered an EFI swap...? I'm kinda curious what it'd take to put EFI on an ACVW now. I bet megasquirt could do it, leaving you with the problem of making manifolds and injector rails.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:14
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kastein posted:Wow, that's a new level of douchebaggery. Most brand specific forums I'm on will only ban you, not delete everything you ever said. If I were going that direction, I'd probably fit up a manifold for one of these guys: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291585987006?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 Some models have flanges, even, instead of those joints meant for hoses. One throttle butterfly, and TBI. Pretty simple. And I've seen complete units for the $90 range.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:26
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I think TBI unit would be better since the early ones run on 15psi of pressure, so all he'd need is a new pump and regulator (plus an adapter plate).
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Nov 19, 2015 18:54
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Convert the beetle to EFI? Need to install an o2 sensor, then.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:14
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A wideband O2 sensor with narrowband O2 emulation is probably a pretty good idea for carb tuning anyway, I would imagine. Data is good, unless you're an old dude on an air-cooled Volkswagen forum misreading a carburetor parts diagram, then anecdotes are good.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:47
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mafoose posted:I think TBI unit would be better since the early ones run on 15psi of pressure, so all he'd need is a new pump and regulator (plus an adapter plate). The TBI on my 88 Subaru GL was a single piece a little bigger than a carb that included pretty much every part and sensor necessary. And the engine is pretty similar in size so I would guess flow would be in the right ballpark.
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Nov 19, 2015 23:35
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also don't forget mexican beetles and later beetles came with EFI,(digifant even!) if anything theres your manifold to build on. add that and the diy arduino efi thread and wham bam thank you mam.
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Nov 20, 2015 09:13
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Before anything, I need to drive it again. So, this time, I'm going in hard. Converts 1ppm CO to 1mV straight up. My father (electrician) uses fieldpiece on the jobsite and Fluke on the bench (I think he just likes yellow) and while they're overpriced usually (CO head goes for 180-250 alone depending on source) they are quick and accurate and you don't even need the fancy base. It has its own battery, and you just hook up a multimeter of your own supply to read the contacts on the bottom, or spend $25 and get the easy handle that hooks in that reads the numbers. (these also connect to their $200 "modular" multimeters, which is the selling point, but heads like this are standalone).
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Nov 20, 2015 10:57
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HNNNNNNNNG I CAN ONLY GET SO HARD
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Nov 23, 2015 22:39
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YAY! Congratulations.
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Nov 23, 2015 22:49
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Nice!
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Nov 23, 2015 22:49
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Awesome! What do you think was the silver bullet in order to pass idle? Just adjusting?
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Nov 23, 2015 23:03
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FYI for those that may be thinking of getting a CO meter or something, it does help. However, CO meters have very narrow temperature and humidity ranges they read accurately in, so if you just stick a meter in the exhaust pipe you will get incorrect readings, and ruin the catalyst in the meter head, destroying $200 (mine was a lucky ebay find, but is an older model). You either need to set up tubing, like dryer tubing, that is long enough to cool the exhaust, or take samples in a bulb and let that cool and any humidity precipitate out and then test with that. Or, you can do what I did, and set up in a low/no wind area, and place the meter a set distance away from the exhaust that stayed consistent, but was also readable. And remember, the emissions station reads percentage, and the meter reads PPM. So, the readings aren't exactly translatable between devices, but it does give you a reference point at a set distance (/length of pipe) to dance around. Overall if I had the money I'd pony up for one of those expensive combustible gas meters (that measures things like O2, HC, CO2, NO, etc), but cost vs results led me to pick up the CO head. And now I have a pretty bangin' CO meter for around the house, too. El Jebus posted:Awesome! What do you think was the silver bullet in order to pass idle? Just adjusting? I rejetted the idle circuit, from a 55 to a 50. In addition, I was extremely careful in setting the initial throttle plate opening amount, by the book. Those probably are what got my HC to just squeak under the limit (and last year, on the old 30 PICT 3 carb the car came with that I subsequently sold, idle circuit was at 388/400, so I have a feeling this is always going to be a bugbear). Having the CO meter to watch while turning screws back and forth certainly helps, too. I also temporarily lost my air cleaner while doing the emissions test, as usual. Whoops. As I was leaving the facility, fist-pumping and whooping, a blue Super Beetle passed me the other way, being driven by a woman. She stopped halfway through her turn, and yelled "PASSED?" I yelled back "YEAH, ONLY TOOK ME NINE TRIES" and she laughed and continued into the lot. I have a feeling emissions tests are always a bit of a nail-biter for certain car owners. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 23:03
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YESSSS! Nice job man.
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Nov 24, 2015 00:24
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Fart Pipe posted:YESSSS! Nice job man. Thanks! Wouldn't have been able to do it without the parts and carb body you sent. Well, since the Beetle is back in service, I decided to waste no time on getting back to work on the bus. And, as this is valuable Fallout 4 time on my day off, I took it seriously. I had purchased an oil temp sender and oil temp gauge for the bus. Since I like the one I got for the beetle very much, I just re-ordered the same sender/gauge set again. Unfortunately, I ran into a snag. You see, the beetle oil temp sender I bought is M18x1.5, which is the size of the Oil Pressure Relief Valve bolt hole (on the picture below, it's the gigantic flathead bolt right in the middle). On the beetle, the sender replaces the bolt, and reads oil temperature coming off of the pump. On the Type 4 engine that the bus has, however, the pressure relief hole is M22x1.5. I had already purchased the sender, and started thinking of where I could mount it. I came to the conclusion that the oil sump is a good place for an oil temp probe, as it gives you a hybrid oil bath/case temperature, which is good enough for my purposes. Since no bolts on the bus are M18, I decided to purchase a weld-on bung to weld into the inspection plate cover (one of two plates on the bottom of the engine: one is the strainer plate familiar to anybody who has ever had an ACVW, and the other is a round inspection plate that resides on the sump right where the oil filler goes). In the following image, the plate I'm using is the black one to the far right. The engine pictured has an aftermarket deep sump, but that's not what I'm talking about :  O2 sensors are also M18x1.5 in many applications, and weld-on O2 sensor bungs are a dime a dozen, so I purchased one. Total cost: $4. First step, remove the inspection plate:  Oh. OOOOOOHHHHHHH.  That's probably not good.   No idea what it is  Now, I have driven the bus for the past few weeks without issue (even average 10PSI oil pressure when hot and idling, even!), so I'm not too concerned. Of course, there is a requisite level of concern a person is legally required to have when they discover a large chunk of metal in their oil pan, and I will admit that my current level of concern is measurably higher than that minimum. For now, I'm just stuck wondering what it is (was). Regardless, I pressed on. I used a pilot bit, and then a large Milwaukee step bit, to drill the hole in the plate out to the proper size. Following the drilling and many test fits, I proceeded to "weld" the bung into place. Why is "weld" in quotation marks? Well, I'll let the pictures explain:    It goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway: I am not a good welder. Hell, I'm not a welder by any means. But by hook or by crook these two pieces of metal are now attached to each other, and I can't really see or detect any leaks. The oil temp sender fits in there snugly, and I will be sealing it off with some Aviation Form-A-Gasket. The silicon O-ring that goes around the inspection plate was clearly damaged on installation by whoever used it last, and there has always been a slow seep there. I'll also use form-a-gasket to help seal that up until I can get a new O-ring ordered.
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Nov 24, 2015 03:07
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 ALERT ALERT I may have a line on a Super Beetle. It may not have tires. It may have been sitting in a backyard for the past 15 years. It may be the perfect parts car and replacement engine source. If this goes through, I may have access to a super beetle (unknown year) in somebody's backyard for a few hours. Again, if things pan out, it could be free under the circumstances that I get it out of their yard without tearing things up too much. My preliminary plan: Remove engine (14mm, 17mm spanner) Remove transmission (14mm, 10mm spanner) Remove doors (impact screwdriver, large hammer) Remove all glass (utility knife) Remove seats (10mm, 13mm spanner) Store aforementioned in the bus Rent home depot trailer (would be uhaul, but they won't rent to my 1998 Explorer under any circumstances) Remove body from yard. Either take to scrapyard where they will hopefully either pay for it, or take it for free. Or con friend into letting us store in his garage for a week or two where I can unload body for a good $100-200 on craigslist. This MAY OR MAY NOT be after I cut away relevant bits from super beetle (under crescent vent area, running boards) that my super has some rust bubbling issues with. How does this plan sound? Take body to
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Nov 24, 2015 09:18
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Free parts car? Does that question really even need to be asked? 
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Nov 24, 2015 15:21
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Free parts car? Take it. Also, I have a spare (as in I own two) M22x1.5 tap around from the Ranger re-engine catastrophuck. I'm not sure where it is but can go looking for it if you want. Yours cheap (real cheap.)
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Nov 24, 2015 16:16
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I think you have it backwards, the case threading is m22x1.5, but the sender was m18x1.5. I solved it with an O2 sensor bung, though  If I gently caress up the threads on the case (which I'm sure I will) I will give you a ringadingadillydoo.I'm terribly sorry for the super-blurry pictures, as my phone has decided to autofocus somewhere in-between one inch and infinity. The point at which it focuses is randomly chosen for each photo. Today I didn't do too much: I cleaned up the headliner using some Spitfire RTU, which is amazing. It leaves so little residue that, if you're careful, you can even clean glass with it. It removed the mildew spots on the spot. After I was done with that, I decided to use up the rest of the bottle to clean the rear engine deck. It was dirty and rusty when I got it, and I have only made it worse through oil spills, dirt, etc. I think it did a drat fine job.   Improvised paper towel roll holder  All clean  Then, I broke out the hole saw and dremel, and finally mounted the oil temp gauge. No pictures of the process for two reasons. One: it was dark, and my phone gets progressively shittier the darker it gets. Two: the entire, clean inside of the bus was full of crash-pad-foam-dust from the dremel. But here's a really, REALLY lovely pic of it installed:  I don't know how well it works yet, because to test it out would require that I take it for a drive. And to take it for a drive, one needs gasoline. I had gasoline, but now somebody with a 5gal tank and a mouth full of hydrocarbons has that gasoline.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:04
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ACVW guys! This is the parts car. Doesn't look like there are many parts, though I am told it has a [probably seized] engine and transmission inside. Person would probably take $200 for it. The glass isn't the right shape for the super, etc. But there are what look like good gauges and probably other bits and bobs I could salvage (like the gas tank if it isn't too nasty). Am I crazy for trying to grab this?      E: 66 or 67 by my reckon. Bumper out of the apron, so pre-68, with both vertical headlights (66+) and a horn grill (66 or 67). Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 03:53
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I bet it'll look a lot nicer if you just take all the poo poo piled inside it out. Does it roll?
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Nov 25, 2015 05:39
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That's probably worth 5k over here. Hell, it comes pre-patina'd.
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Nov 25, 2015 13:44
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Yeah, just that mostly rust free chassis would be worth some decent cash to someone in a rusty area who wants to build an ACVW. Hell, if you only want parts off it and it comes titled or with some sort of paperwork, that'd make an awesome AISS gift... recipient must pick up  (No, I don't want it, I just got the idea from IOC getting an unknown car possibly still extant, possibly still in a florida swamp last year)
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Nov 25, 2015 15:53
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A friend is willing to go halfsies on it, so next paycheck or two I will offer up to $200 (so, 400 total) plus pickup and removal for it. Doesn't roll, seized engine, but I think it could be a good source of parts and ebayable things. He has a garage we can store it in temporarily, like maybe a month total. One weekend plus tools will get us all of the useful stuff off, and I think a craigslist posting or two would clear the body.
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Nov 25, 2015 16:12
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I have a slight oil leak from doing the taco plate/inspection plate sensor install, from the large O-ring that seals the plate in. The O-ring is 77x4mm, and generally not sold by itself. Fortunately, most talk online says to re-use it. Unfortunately, my O-ring was damaged by the PO and had a chunk missing. Fortunately, I had a replacement O-ring in my gasket set. Unfortunately, the only way to seal it good, from the way it is designed, is to use a little Ultra Black RTV or other sealant. Fortunately, even TheSamba sources say it will leak without at least a light coating. So, I drained the oil for the second time in as many days, and pulled the plate off. Gotta have that ultra-clean surface for the RTV to stick to, y'know. Since I was down there, I decided to also check out the sump plate. I haven't actually ever taken it off of the bus, only loosened it for oil changes. No pictures because it was already dark outside, but the sump plate itself was full of maybe 1cm thick solid black sludge. Cleaned that poo poo out, dried everything up, and did a very thin RTV skim coat on the two circular gaskets just to help them seal, as I'm re-using them (can't find the new ones in the gasket set). In my mind, the difference between a PO and yourself regarding RTV is the volume and placement.
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Nov 26, 2015 02:19
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