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Seat Safety Switch posted:Congratulations, get ready to have a bunch of new projects. I'm going to put 1UZs in everything.
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# ? Feb 24, 2016 19:29 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 04:11 |
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'm going to put 1UZs in everything. No, I mean, like, house projects. Kiss your free time goodbye.
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# ? Feb 24, 2016 19:36 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:No, I mean, like, house projects. Kiss your free time goodbye. I'll put 1UZs in all my house projects as well! [video of the LS powered blender]
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# ? Feb 24, 2016 20:11 |
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Post a pic of your garage when you can, New AI rule
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# ? Feb 24, 2016 20:16 |
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Of course!
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# ? Feb 24, 2016 20:17 |
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Been shopping recently: Here is £600 ($1000) of rubber mounts and bushes. The engine and transmission mounts would have cost me £338 from Toyota in the UK, so I imported them from a Toyota dealer in Dubai which came to £223 including shipping and taxes. The suspension and steering rack bushes were custom made in bulk for the UZZ32 for a guy in Australia who owns 6x UZZ32's. He had to fulfil a minimum order, and he sells the extras to recoup his investment. Total including shipping and taxes was around £375. A large UK parts/consumable suppliers had a flash sale on consumables. I picked up a poo poo ton of brake cleaner, penetrating fluid, and deionised water for around 1/3 of retail prices. Also some silver paint for my unicorn exhaust headers, as ceramic coating would cost me around $1200 - $1500 from a not-poo poo company. Other than that, I've been selling off Soarer parts to clear space and generate some money. Once I move, I will break the green UZZ32 for additional funds, and will use some of the better parts (trunk lid, doors, door seals, front bumper) on my white UZZ32, which I will then strip to a shell and have painted. While the white car is being painted, I will refurbish what's left, will fit all that rubber goodness and the exhaust manifold, will refurb/regas the suspension, and will look at replacing every drat o-ring in the car. I'll also replace all the glass (as it's all scratched or pitted in some way). While that's happening, I plan to pick up a cheap (£1000-£1200 ish, preferably dented/damaged or rusted out) GS430 to drive to work in, and will then break that for it's 3UZ and 5-speed which I could put in a cheap RX8 or FD shell or Miata or something.
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# ? Feb 25, 2016 14:13 |
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Does exhaust paint really do anything at all? Perhaps I'm cynical since I live somewhere the salt destroys pipes but it doesn't seem that effective.
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# ? Feb 25, 2016 15:29 |
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I'm not sure, but for £700 to replace, I figure I should give it a fighting chance. I don't know what other options there are that won't cost me a fortune. The other option is to have them copied in stainless, which would be expensive (I had a quote of £1000 to create from a template), and may still produce fitment issues. The 4 cans of paint was less than £10. The pipes aren't really exposed to salt and hopefully moisture wouldn't collect inside the vertical sections. My other worry with these is the heat, apparently under-bonnet temperatures skyrocket with these headers. I was thinking of having someone manufacture some heat shields, but again this would be expensive and may not fit (clearance around these headers is so tight that engine-out is the fastest and easiest way to fit them)
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# ? Feb 25, 2016 16:01 |
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Not much happening on the UZZ32 front - right now I'm organising and selling parts to fund future projects. I've been working on a few other UZZ32's, and I worry that my next home is going to become "ShittyPostmakerPro's Home for Lost UZZ32's". One small side project which I started on today was this Snap-On Solus Pro diagnostic code reader thingamajig. It belongs to a family friend, a mobile mechanic who recently had his van and tools stolen. When his local Snap-On dealer heard about the theft, he offered this recently-traded-in Solus for cost price, to help get him back on his feet. The unit works well, but has intermittent response on the buttons, which is probably why it was traded in to begin with. I pulled the unit apart and found that the ribbon cable and connector for this lovely printed plastic circuit had been damaged. The button contacts are printed onto this plastic and contact is made by buckling a small steel cup above them. not a great design! I removed the ribbon connector (taking some of the pads off in the process - damnit!) and soldered some thin wire in place. In two instances I really hosed the pads and had to solder onto their destination components. The whole thing got potted with some 2-part epoxy to give it some strength, and some double-sided foam tape will hopefully help cushion the joins. I can now operate the unit flawlessly by touching various wires together! I've ordered some microswitches and a blank PCB, the next step is to place the switches in the correct spots under the rubber membrane, and mount these on a PCB which will be set suitably far back to ensure correct operation. It would be nice to re-use the lovely printed plastic circuit board, but I tried a few times to make contact, and failed every time. I was thinking of melting wires through the traces, and then using a conductive pen to rebuild them, but this is a lovely solution compared to a rigid PCB with physical switches. Hopefully I can get this unit fully functioning by the end of the week
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# ? Mar 5, 2016 23:19 |
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Impressive work!
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# ? Mar 6, 2016 14:22 |
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Very little to update - I'm currently in the process of packing and preparing to move to my new place. The new place will need some work doing to the garage, which will provide additional content for this thread, I'm sure. After that, I have 2 people who are both waiting for me to be ready to look at their UZZ32's. I also have another UZZ32 to part out. I will be having the new garage extended to hold all of the crap which I will produce in this process. One guy is short of funds so will be paying me in spare 1UZ's. I finished the work on the Snap-On diagnostic tool last week, but have been too busy to upload the photos of that. Laying out new switches on a pre-drilled PCB Drilling the frame which held the original printed buttons Soldering that poo poo (definitely not my neatest work - I cleaned this up afterwards). Mounted to the original plastic button frame. The white tape was later replaced with some thick plastic, mounted with foam tape. I don't seem to have the 'AND ITS WORKING' picture, but it does, indeed, work, and the button feel is much nicer than it once was. Also, this is how to quickly release a drum brake shoe which has become embedded in the groove on your drum, with no access to the adjustment wheel. Was originally going to cut the whole disc in half - this wasn't going to work without going through the backing plate and the hub.
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 00:49 |
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That's some heavy duty brake work
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 09:01 |
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I was surprised at how easy the disc was to cut - that triangle probably only took 2-3 minutes to remove!
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 12:42 |
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So it's either made of cheese or the cutting disc you have is serious kit.
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 19:36 |
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Going to go with the former as the cutting disc was the cheapest one at Screwfix :p http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-metal-cutting-discs-115-x-1-x-22-23mm-3-pack/7600d
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 19:42 |
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With rare exception discs are cast and not that tough really.
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# ? Mar 21, 2016 21:18 |
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Yeah cast iron cuts like warm butter, since it's grain structure is short, stubby crystals growing in random directions. Think of it like ice cream (but metal and less delicious).
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# ? Mar 22, 2016 04:36 |
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Cakefool posted:Post a pic of your garage when you can, New AI rule Yes, sir. It's been slow moving in - I got the UZZ32's up there today: Here's the green one in the garage - I couldn't get a wide shot as the sun was setting overhead and ruining my photos. I'm still moving tools and parts in, it will be another 2 weeks before I am back into working on cars. The first job will be to strip the green Soarer for parts to find the new project Why? because new garage means new project! I just picked this up for £notverymuch, it was sold as "spares or repair - engine stuck in limp mode". Yet the engine runs fine and pulls hard. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 30, 2016 |
# ? Mar 30, 2016 20:53 |
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So it's not actually broken?! Score!
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# ? Mar 30, 2016 22:32 |
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88h88 posted:So it's not actually broken?! Score! Well, it is an RX-8 with an unknown history. It's probably only a matter of time?
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# ? Mar 30, 2016 23:34 |
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literally a fish posted:Well, it is an RX-8 with an unknown history. It's probably only a matter of time? I've got the history right here!!! (it's at 77k miles on the original engine but currently on it's 3rd steering rack ) A working Renesis engine will sell for more than the car cost me, and yes, it's just a matter of time. This engine is coming out in a few weeks to be replaced with something more dependable. Having the engine in working order is great as I will need to pull CAN data from the ECU (for things such as rpm, road speed, coolant temperature, oil pressure) so that I can replicate this data (using an arduino) to keep the stock gauges happy. As for engines, the requirements are: Something that will fit Something that makes around 231hp Something that isn't overly expensive Something that isn't overly heavy or long 1UZ-FE (duh) + Cheap (I've been offered one 'for free' in exchange for about a days work on a UZZ32) + Plenty of power + Not much heavier or longer than a Renesis + I'm familiar with them - Wide, would need to relocate ABS unit, make custom headers - Old tech - Not-great mpg 3UZ-FE + All the pros of the 1UZ + More power + More modern - All the cons of the 1UZ - Expensive (A non-running GS430 will run me £1300) 2JZ-GE (non-turbo) + Fits! + Similar to the 1UZ in terms of wiring, etc. + Similar power to a Renesis + Cheap (from an IS300) - Iron block (heavy) - Long - will affect weight distribution 1JZ-GTE See 2JZ-GE. But more expensive. Much more expensive. 2JZ-GTE See 1JZ-GTE. But more expensive. Muuuuuuuuuuch more expensive. SR20 + Good size + Good power - Really freaking expensive (£2k+ ?!?!) RB25/26 + People have done this swap before with great success - I know nothing about these engines KL-DE / KL-ZE + Used to own a car with a Mazda V6, am familiar with them + Madza! + Fits, really well - almost bolts up to the transmission + Small, light weight + Cheap (£100-£200 for a KL-DE. £300+ for a KL-ZE)! - 'only' 175hp (DE) / 200hp (ZE) - needs a custom sump to fit MZR/Duratec + Apparently a direct fit to the transmission (if not, a NC MX5 bellhousing will fit) + Good size - Not so powerful (I'd accept that) - Expensive (£2k +) I've got a much longer list of potentials, but this was my shortlist (from memory). I'm currently leaning towards a KL-DE (which has lower compression than the ZE, and is much easier to find), with a future turbocharger. What blindingly obvious engines have I missed? No LS1, I'm afraid, they don't exist (within my budget) in the UK. Edit: wildcard: http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds-and-projects/413726-mazda-rx8-project-with-20v-audi-turbo-engine.html Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 31, 2016 |
# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:34 |
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LS3? In all seriousness, how much is a LS1 in the UK compared to the 2JZ-GTE or the SR20?
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:50 |
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Complete-Engines-/33615/i.html?_sop=15&_from=R40&_nkw=ls1&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 Price looks comparable but once you add ancillaries, wiring, ECU, MAF, and all the rest, it becomes a lot more expensive. There is no aftermarket for these engines in the UK - everything would need to be shipped from the US.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:54 |
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mariooncrack posted:LS3? Probably really expensive, considering the only LSx powered vehicles there are the Holdens sent from Australia
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:55 |
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Only engine I can think of is M52 but it doesn't really check any boxes the others don't for presumably less money and effort
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:56 |
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You Am I posted:Probably really expensive, considering the only LSx powered vehicles there are the Holdens sent from Australia GM sold the Monaro/GTO in the UK under the Vauxhall brand for a few years. Sales were...not great.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 01:58 |
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Rear wheel drive k20 conversion? I assume an f20 drivetrain would be too expensive for the project.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 02:41 |
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Not sure why SRs are expensive there at all. Did you guys get the S13/14/15 Silvia/200SX? Ugh, looked at Ebay and they're nearly 2k £. Gross. RBs are heavy. What about the RWD 3SGTE from the IS200/Altezza? Doing more research looks like the transverse ones bolt up pretty easily to a RWD Toyota trans, you just need to do some oil pan/pickup changes. Weird that Duratec/MZRs are pricey given that Ford/Mazda stuck them in half of everything.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 04:42 |
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I've only ever seen the 200SX and Silvia in the UK, and I believe they were all imports. they sell for crazy money now. I'd like to keep the RX8 transmission (because free 6 speed!). The trans is great (it's a MX5 trans with different ratios and bellhousing). Changing transmissions also becomes a bit more of a pain, as the RX8 apparently has a carbon fibre driveshaft. I'll have a look into the 3S-GTE, though any turbo Toyota motor from that era is going to be pricey. MZR motors are not so cheap, mostly because they are new. The best way to get hold of one would be from a wrecked NC MX5, to ensure I get all the parts I need. Apparently the transverse Ford Duratecs have the same bolt pattern for the transmission, but there's no good evidence for this. The Duratec isn't so popular over here, most people buying cars in that range went for diesel. K20 is a contender - I'll look into it I'm just annoyed that I turned down the offer of a free Saab B234 5 years ago!
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 09:48 |
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Wrar posted:What about the RWD 3SGTE from the IS200/Altezza? Doing more research looks like the transverse ones bolt up pretty easily to a RWD Toyota trans, you just need to do some oil pan/pickup changes. The non-BEAMS 3SGE from a Celica or similar is probably more affordable, but a bunch less power, and obviously needs to be adapted to fit in a RWD
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 10:06 |
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RWD BEAMS 3SGEs are really cheap down here in - nobody really wants the RWD ones, i'd probably go down that road myself. (who am I kidding if I bought an RX-8 it'd get a tri-rotor peripheral port turbo and i'd get myself killed)
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 11:09 |
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13B from a FD has been at the back of my mind, but again it's more money for an old engine with unknown history which might need a rebuild. On the plus side, it may bolt right up and even use the rx8 harness and ECU
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 14:02 |
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3SGTEs are pretty cheap on Ebay.co.uk. I did 5 minutes of research and they bolt up to many RWD toyota transmissions with minimum modification supposedly.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 15:14 |
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I'd pick something that easily bolts up the to the transmission and with the least complications with the mounts/plumbing. You can add power later. 2.0 or 2.5L Mazda turbo maybe? 2.3L from the Mazdaspeed? Not sure what bolts up to the Miata/Rx8 trans, honestly. Edit: Edit2: The cake is a lie. Doesn't look like the trans will bolt up to the engine like some people led me to believe. http://www.rx8club.com/non-rotary-swaps-196/1jzgte-rx-8-garage-swap-253915/ Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Mar 31, 2016 |
# ? Mar 31, 2016 16:45 |
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:13B from a FD has been at the back of my mind, but again it's more money for an old engine with unknown history which might need a rebuild. On the plus side, it may bolt right up and even use the rx8 harness and ECU It will bolt right up, but it will need new motor mounts, ECU, wiring, fuel rails, custom turbo manifold, cooling, ect. NA V8 that thing if you can make it fit.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 17:27 |
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The issue with the RX8 is that the transmission is sunk quite deeply into the firewall - requiring either cutting of the firewall (and maybe loss of the HVAC if you have to cut too far in), or a thick adapter plate and a flywheel spacer. A Mazda BP engine will fit with a MX5 bellhousing, but the firewall needs cutting. A V8 would be great. The issue is that a OHC 90deg V8 will be too wide (a 1UZ is about 65cm wide) to clear the ABS and clutch master, and too long to clear the steering rack. At this point we are getting into the realms of manufacturing a new subframe. A GM LS series motor is small enough to fit a bit further back, and will clear the steering rack (especially if you switch to a hydraulic rack) and ABS unit. A Mazda 2.5 V6 is short enough to clear the steering rack, and is 60deg so will clear the ABS unit (apparently it fouls the clutch master but this can be fettled). The downside for the V6 is that it was only designed for transverse mount. To mount in a RX8 will mean adapting the intake manifold (the inlet points at the firewall) and fabricating a new sump. The alternator on a KL-series engine sits where the AC pump needs to go, so that would need moving to the other side of the engine, and mount fabricating. These need an adapter, but 'only just' - some bolt holes line up. I would need a spacer to allow the heads to clear the firewall anyway. However, after reading up on these, they seem like a great choice. Small, light weight, economical, love to rev (up to 8000!) and good for up to around 12psi of boost on stock internals. Apparently they benefit greatly from larger cams, wider intake runners, and a ported head. The KL-ZE already has these improvements over the KL-DE (both engines share the same short block), but even on the KL-ZE, there is room for improvement. Current thoughts are to pick up a KL-DE 2.5L V6 from an old UK-spec Mazda 626 or MX6 (MOT-failed MX6's can be had for £100-£400 complete), live with the lower spec heads, intake, and 9:1 compression ratio, enjoy the 176hp for now (which, let's face it, is fine for a 1300kg car with a 4.4:1 final drive), and possibly turbo it in the future. Am I nuts for not putting a 1UZ in it? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 31, 2016 |
# ? Mar 31, 2016 18:19 |
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If a 1UZ will fit and you've got access to one, yeah probably.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 22:28 |
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The issue with the RX8 is that no engine will fit without modification to the firewall, subframe, or brakes. It's a case of how much modification to the car that each engine will need.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 22:33 |
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It sounds like the 1uz needs a lot of big things while the kl needs a lot of little things. The kl would be much cooler.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 23:05 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 04:11 |
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Yeah I'd not want to take that on personally, it'd be an awesome and frustrating project I imagine.
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# ? Mar 31, 2016 23:17 |