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I learned to wear a garage hoodie from jamal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU
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Sep 16, 2015 16:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I learned to wear a garage hoodie from jamal. THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING
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Sep 16, 2015 16:19
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If I had known it was going to be so popular I would have gotten a haircut and put on a cleaner shirt.
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Sep 16, 2015 17:37
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jamal posted:If I had known it was going to be so popular I would have gotten a haircut and put on a cleaner shirt. Still would.
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Sep 16, 2015 17:55
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Adiabatic posted:Are you taking the A/C compressor off the bracket, or taking the A/C compressor and bracket off the block? You should be able to unbolt the entire bracket from the block and take the compressor/bracket off as one piece. There's a couple of hidden and hard to get to bolts, but it absolutely beats the alternative. The plan is to take the compressor and bracket off the block; getting the compressor off the bracket is literally impossible as the long bolts that hold it on run straight into the heads. And yeah, parking it behind the passenger-side headlight here, where the battery used to be :p Here's that same diagram for my vehicle - it looks pretty much the same, yeah. The whole 5/10/11/15 unit is definitely what I was aiming to remove, it's only held down with four bolts - but the bolt marked #1 in the diagram is a bit of a bitch to get to. Slow is Fast posted:Don't open the AC lines. Yeah I definitely don't want to remove the intake. Socket ujoints it is! May be a little fiddly, but having had another look it should be barely possible to reach with a 3/8 drive socket (up 'till now i've been using 1/2" drive and that's not happening) and some extensions/joints. Is using the intake as a lift point safe?? I have been wondering where is best to lift from. There's a couple of lift hooks that I can see, but one of them doesn't seem particularly strong (bracket bolted to flywheel housing)  You can see how they stuffed the bolt up under there. Rude. Seat Safety Switch posted:I learned to wear a garage hoodie from jamal. Adiabatic posted:THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING This is awesome. Jamal, you have saved me $80 and a three-week wait for a tool to arrive from the UK. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 00:21
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You should send that $80 to jamal and get some performance parts now. You owe it to him.
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Sep 17, 2015 00:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You should send that $80 to jamal and get some performance parts now. You owe it to him. I vote spend $80 on jorts and do sockington photos. This place needs more entertainment.
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Sep 17, 2015 00:44
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If you'd like the tl;dr of the coming post, drat YOU, JAPANESE ENGINEERS! We begin today with fully charged power tools and a determination to not only get the engine out but to do everything properly along the way. First order of business: intercooler removal. [timg]http://i.imgur.com/w24Y8rt.jpg[timg] Well that was easy. Shortly followed by vacuum lines, fuel feed lines, electrical connectors, so on and so forth.  Yay! Alternator, power steering, and aircon pumps are off.     Mmmmm, build area. Mmm, parts tubs and ziploc bags of bolts and brackets. Alright, on to exhaust (which was an adventure, including the purchase of a new set of 3-8mm allen keys) and engine mount slash bellhousing bolts. All good thus far, though bellhousing bolts were an adventure.  Cranes for days, boys. Cranes for days. And herein we run into the snag that's responsible for the engine still technically being in the car... Apparently in order to remove the engine on a 5 speed manual transmission Subaru from 2002 one must remove the clutch fork mount pin in order to release the tension on the clutch assembly. The other option, not available to me due to having a siezed up engine, was to remove all the bolts mounting the clutch pressure plate onto the flywheel. This was not articulated in the howtos I'd come across, nor was it mentioned at all in the factory service manual. It took quite a bit of searching to work out. Removing the fork pin is a very simple affair, you remove the cap over the top of it (10mm allen key required), screw in a bolt from the valvecover and slide the pin out. Oh wait. 10mm allen key? Remember, we only have up to 8. It's 8:45pm. The hardware stores are closed.   So we end our story for tonight with a not quite removed engine, for want of a 10mm allen key. Tomorrow, we will return, and we WILL extract this poor shattered engine from her former host.
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Sep 18, 2015 14:41
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As a note, once you get the cap off, the pin will need something threaded into it to pull on. I THINK its m10x1.25 since nearly everything else on the loving car is, but don't quote me on it. Thread a bolt in and pry on the bolt head until the pin comes out.
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Sep 18, 2015 14:51
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Slow is Fast posted:As a note, once you get the cap off, the pin will need something threaded into it to pull on. I THINK its m10x1.25 since nearly everything else on the loving car is, but don't quote me on it. Ja, it's the same as the timing cover bolts apparently. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 15:00
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Sorry dude, you were warned about the clutch  jamal posted:Tha probably has a pull-clutch so don't forget to disconnect the throwout bearing before you start yanking on it.
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Sep 18, 2015 15:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sorry dude, you were warned about the clutch  see this is what i get for not paying enough attention to jamal
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Sep 18, 2015 15:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I learned to wear a garage hoodie from jamal. Jamal please explain this video. Didn't you put your engine out of time by turning the intake cam? MustardFacial fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 18:08
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You can release the throwout bearing with a long pick or flathead screwdriver as well. You have to pull the little ring back away from the pressure plate so it releases and then use the fork to pop it back. It's kind of hard though. The threading in the pin is m6 x 0.8 I think. Whatever the small bolts with a 10mm head are. MustardFacial posted:Jamal please explain this video. Didn't you put your engine out of time by turning the intake cam? Considering that engine has been in my car running fine for like the last 5 years, no. For setting timing, the right (driver's side on this car) valves are all closed and the pistons are all halfway down the bores when you put on the belt. it is not done at TDC and you don't use the TDC arrow mark on the crank sprocket. You can just turn them back and forth freely to line up the marks, which is why I do that side last..The left side valves, however, are partially open, so the cams have to be turned pretty far. That's why you turn the intake cam one direction first and then the exhaust cam so that the valves don't hit each other on that side.
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Sep 18, 2015 18:49
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SUCK IT, SUBARU! An ungodly amount of torque was required to break the pin cap, but we got it off. Whoever was responsible for installing it last time (and it has a half-worn Exedy clutch in it, so it's definitely been pulled before) can respectfully go gently caress themselves, as i'll bet they just rattlegunned it on. Once that was out, though, things went pretty smoothly. Timing cover shoulder bolt threaded into pin, prybar to get it started, happily slid the rest of the way out. Engine forward, clutch fork disengaged, jack the lift up and...   FREEDOM!    Nice empty engine bay, save for m'verygoodfriend. I believe this is tradition:  Now we wait a few days for new clutch and timing belt kit to rock up, and begin installing the new engine 
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Sep 19, 2015 12:36
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Good work. So weird seeing twin cam and the brake booster on the wrong side...
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Sep 19, 2015 13:19
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Got my wideband O2 sensor/lambdagauge in the mail today. Questioning how useful it will be, but it's cool. Also realized I didn't actually order the timing belt kit on Saturday like I thought I did, so it won't be here until Friday at the earliest. God damnit. The plan was to begin throwing it back together on Thursday, and while that'll still happen (valve cover gaskets, clutch, spark plugs etc) the lack of belt puts a damper on things. Maybe i'll be stupidly lucky and the belt in it will both have a date code, and the date code will be recent.
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Sep 22, 2015 13:38
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Good work getting all required engine-out pictures. You've made AI proud. I especially like your unique take on the man-in-engine-bay shot. Very post-modern. Pin: Make sure you get lots of light into the bellhousing when you're re-installing that pin. It can be difficult to line up correctly if you aren't used to it. Timing belt If you don't want to wait for the timing belt, it's only marginally more difficult to install it with the engine in the bay. I'm sure you've noticed there's a lot of room up front without the radiator installed. In fact, it may be easier assuming you aren't putting the engine on a stand and are instead hanging it from the hoist. Mating the Engine back to the Transmission: Installing the motor will be made easier if you have a person on each side of the transmission pulling up on the CV axles. This can also be done with a jack under the transmission, but in my opinion it's generally easier to wiggle poo poo around until it lines up. Line up the two bottom block studs with the holes in the bellhousing first. Once just the tip is in, make sure the plate connected to the block is fully going under the bottom of the bellhousing. A corner of it will get stuck frequently. After that you should be able to wiggle them together to within half an inch of eachother. If the engine and transmission won't get within one or two inches of eachother, first make sure you have an equal spacing all the way around the bellhousing. If it still won't go after you've lined the angle up correctly, the input shaft may need to turn to seat with the clutch disc. Make sure the transmission is in gear and all four wheels are off the ground, then have someone turn a wheel forward or turn the prop shaft while you wiggle more. Once you have around half an inch of clearance between the engine and bellhousing, start bolting them together and crack a fuckin beer because it's cake from there. Edit: Oh and for gently caress's sake make drat well sure you have the throwout bearing installed before you put the engine in. I've been there and yes I'm dumb. Don't be dumb like me. VVVV Again, jamal has a way better way of doing things than I do. I'm tempted to post all of my methods in hopes that he'll keep posting better ones. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 14:46
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I usually stick a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley so you can push from there and turn at the same time. I also stick a jack under the trans to get it high enough. Seems easier to only need to move around one heavy thing to line things up. And if things aren't sliding on smoothly don't sit there trying to force it, you can damage the clutch disc. Also you can put the pin, clutch fork, and TOB all back together before you install the engine. Just leave off the slave cylinder so it will pivot all the way back and then you can pop it back on the pressure plate once it's on.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:49
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jamal posted:I usually stick a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley so you can push from there and turn at the same time. I also stick a jack under the trans to get it high enough. Seems easier to only need to move around one heavy thing to line things up. And if things aren't sliding on smoothly don't sit there trying to force it, you can damage the clutch disc. Adiabatic posted:Again, jamal has a way better way of doing things than I do. I'm tempted to post all of my methods in hopes that he'll keep posting better ones. Actually jamal, if you don't mind, what's your method for turbo inlet pipes on a single, stock location turbo? I've gone so far as to loosen the intake manifold bolts for some wiggle room, but can't see the time savings in taking it off completely. I also bought a remote hose clamp tool for the BPV recirc tube, but I haven't done another one yet to test it out.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:57
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If it's a soft inlet, pull the p/s pump and just mangle up the stock one getting it out (you basically just have to break off the pcv fitting on the back). The new one will slide in without having to unbolt the manifold. Just takes a bit of patience. If it's a hard inlet, the whole thing comes off and the fuel lines need to get reworked and I also grind the tgv housing a bit for extra clearance. And then for the BPV hose ditch the stock clamp and use a nice lined worm clamp. Easier to line up and tighten in that space.
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Sep 22, 2015 19:14
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literally a fish posted:Oh wait. I think the problem could have been solved with a bolt, namely one with a 10mm head. Double nut on the threads to allow you to use it to loosen the offending item.
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Sep 23, 2015 18:05
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Commodore_64 posted:I think the problem could have been solved with a bolt, namely one with a 10mm head. Double nut on tthhe threads to allow you to use it to loosen the offending item. We did try that, actually - but were unable to apply enough torque without popping out the bolt head. I suspect if the plug hadn't been hosed over with a rattlegun by the last guy it would have worked.
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Sep 23, 2015 23:45
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Like I mentioned, it is tricky, BUT, you can disconnect the TOB from the pressure plate without removing that pin. With the slave cylinder off, pull out the rubber boot, and then take a really long flathead screwdriver and a flashlight and pull back the retaining ring on the pressure plate, then pop the end of the clutch fork forward and the tob will come out. Occasionally I can't get it to release and get frustrated and just pull out the pin though.
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Sep 24, 2015 06:45
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jamal posted:Like I mentioned, it is tricky, BUT, you can disconnect the TOB from the pressure plate without removing that pin. With the slave cylinder off, pull out the rubber boot, and then take a really long flathead screwdriver and a flashlight and pull back the retaining ring on the pressure plate, then pop the end of the clutch fork forward and the tob will come out. Occasionally I can't get it to release and get frustrated and just pull out the pin though. I did remember you telling me this, but missed the "pull out the rubber boot" bit and so concluded it wouldn't be possible as I couldn't get it out far enough  Question for when the clutch goes back in: do I assemble the fork/TOB on the trans and just push the engine/trans together? or do I need to positively engage the bearing somewhere? literally a fish fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Sep 24, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 13:08
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Hey for those of us with only a tiny bit of subaru experience, can you take a well lit photo of the back of the motor showing where they stuffed that second turbo, and how it's plumbed? I've seen the single turbo setups and it's crazy enough to me that I'm having trouble imagining two. This is for curiosity only, I have no actual need for this photo, so don't go out of your way or anything.
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Sep 25, 2015 07:54
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You can sort of see in this pic (heat shields at the back) (and the 2nd pic i nicked from google):  The headers are pretty much H shaped to cross over before they hit the turbos, and then there's your typical Y-pipe. In project news, I have had the flywheel machined:  And all the other parts have show up. Tomorrow is shaping up to be nice and warm, as is Sunday, so with any luck engine in this weekend. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 15:31
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Are the DOHC motors ALL so insanely difficult to get off? I'm dealing with a handful of 12-14 wrx/sti short block swaps and there's always one camshaft bolt that requires two opposing air chisels to get out. It's insane
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Sep 26, 2015 03:36
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It's all about applying the force at the right rate over the whole area. So you need a good 10mm 1/2 drive socket, the cam gears to be pretty much immobile (use an old timing belt jammed into itself, or a tool with an avcs gear), and to crank down very sharply with a big breaker bar. I have taken off countless cam gears and only rounded out the bolt a few times, mostly when I was first learning how to do it.
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Sep 26, 2015 07:26
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Stupid goddamn motor won't line up with the bellhousing no matter what I do either the top or the bottom stays ~3/4" away from the other side and I don't know why anyway pix:     As somehow there is almost no gap at the top and a nearly 1" gap at the bottom I suspect I will have to undo the bolts at the top (which are not pressing the housings together) and gently caress about until it slides together I tried to push the bottom together with bolts but the bolts are not long enough to begin threading please tell me there's something really stupid I'm doing wrong since SiF and Jamal both seem to suggest this should be relatively easy Edit: here are those packaging pics btw:   Oh and did I mention one of the spark plugs had coolant on it when I pulled it? clearly a quality engine I have here.  says it needs a new head gasket.
literally a fish fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 10:46
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Yeah do not force it on there with the bolts. Clutch disc is centered? I find the tool doesn't get it there exactly and I tend to make a fine adjustment by eye as I start to tighten the pressure plate. Are you turning the crank back and forth to get the splines to align? Or maybe you just need to go up a little higher with the trans. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 18:30
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I had a chat with chrisgt in #neai and he said much the same. And yes, there was copious crankspinning to mate the splines. Splines are mated, if you spin the engine with the trans in gear it spins the wheels, I suspect it's not quiiiite lined up with the pilot bearing... Clutch disc probably isn't perfect, but it was adjusted as best I could with the plastic centering tool (wiggled around before clamping down the pressure plate). I suspect I just need to unbolt the dogbone mount on top of the trans and jack it up a bit higher (which chrisgt also suggested). That's the plan for today. All going well, I should be back this evening with a running engine! (That may have a blown head gasket...) literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Sep 27, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 23:33
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Oh, yeah, pitch stop should be off. So it's probably just not at a perfectly straight angle.
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Sep 27, 2015 04:39
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IT LIVES https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6Fo7Rg3m8k    Shown above: two hours of cursing and consulting #neai for help. Finally got the two halves that last 1/2" by engaging the throwout bearing on the clutch plate and depressing the clutch. Thankyou so much for your help, goons.  Tomorrow the radiator goes back in, we fill her up with coolant, and go for a test-drive. I should also receive the tuning/diagnostic cable (tactrix openport) in the mail, so I can reset the learning parameters in the ECU and let it learn the new motor. The hardest part is over, but the fun part is still to come...
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Sep 27, 2015 10:36
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literally a fish posted:So we end our story for tonight with a not quite removed engine, for want of a 10mm allen key. Tomorrow, we will return, and we WILL extract this poor shattered engine from her former host. If you have a 10mm bolt you don't need and a bench grinder, you can make a square-drive-to-allen-head adapter. You're welcome.
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Sep 27, 2015 11:36
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Awesome! No better feeling than when a engine swap starts right away
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Sep 27, 2015 16:24
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This is awesome. Glad it all worked out.
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Sep 27, 2015 16:31
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Congrats! That's a great feeling when it starts. Did you address the coolant on the plug issue or just tossed the motor in as-is? skimmed back a little bit didn't see anything.
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Sep 27, 2015 16:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Awesome! Seat Safety Switch posted:This is awesome. Glad it all worked out. Bajaha posted:Congrats! That's a great feeling when it starts. It's pretty awesome when you don't have to spend an hour chasing gremlins. Thanks guys  From further investigation it looks like I may have a small internal coolant leak in the primary turbo (which is unusual) as there was a bit of water (possibly coolant though hard to tell) through some of the intake, however i'd expect that to have shown up in more than one cylinder. I threw the motor in as-is and after a few test runs I'm going to pop the intercooler off again and see what I can see. It's quite possible some moron spilled water into the thing while pulling it out of the car it was in, so I'm hoping that it's all fine and no water appears in the turbo etc etc. The shop I bought it from gave me a 6 month warranty on the motor, so we'll see what happens.
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Sep 27, 2015 23:30
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 01:36 |
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Sorry for the lack of updates, I did something very stupid and annoying and it upset me for a little bit. You know how I bought a new clutch? Yep. wrong clutch.  it wouldn't disengage, so it was impossible to drive the car. So the engine had to come out again, and I had to buy a new clutch  (or so i thought)I decided to measure the thickness of the friction plate that was in the car when I got it and fortunately for me it was effectively brand new. So we just had to swap the old clutch back on. A friend came over to help and in the course of five hours we pulled the engine, swapped the clutch, and reinstalled the engine. She runs great, though has a MASSIVE exhaust leak on one cylinder. I didn't take a lot of photos, sorry goons but here's one of her parked at the petrol station down the street. It's a public holiday tomorrow, so nothing more will be happening until next week, but she'll be going off to the exhaust shop for a cat/resonator then hopefully inspected and registered 
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Oct 1, 2015 12:06
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