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My friend just replaced his ~1500 miles dual AEM's with Walbro 485's. The AEM's when ran in parallel sounded like a blender full of rocks.
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Feb 21, 2016 21:22
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I suspect it won't be quite so terrible in my case as I'm running just the one and the stock fuel pump controller should keep it nice and quiet when idling (FPC has 33%/66%/100% pump PWM steps) - and at higher fuel pump speeds, well, the engine note ought to well and truly drown it out  I was initially going to put in a Walbro but the highest rated one I could find that's a drop-in was only 285lph rated, which is a bit too close for comfort IMO, and then later turned out to not actually be E85-compatible anyway. If the noise this pump makes when halfassedly closed back up and run in a bucket of gas is anything to go by, it should be pretty quiet, actually. I suspect the trick 3D-printed impeller helps. E: Had a look at the 485, definitely a promising option if the AEM replacements don't work out, though it looks like I'd have to modify the pickup some in order to make it work. Nothing a hose clamp can't fix, though
literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 00:30
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Oooooookay time for an update. AEM replacement fuel pump worked fine, yay! So did the spare I bought along with it, which is now in the "useful/good spare parts" tub in the shed. No photos of the install as I was a bit angry and a bit sick of pulling out the pump assembly from the tank. Anyway, I converted the car into a plug-in hybrid:  I kid, I kid. Battery was complaining because all I'd done was start the car a bunch and not actually drive it for any reasonable length of time, so it was a bit drained. Topped it off overnight. Went junkyarding for a wagon washer bottle (which has two pumps, but is otherwise identical to the sedan bottle, so I can use the rear pump for an intercooler spray  )I didn't take any photos of the parts I actually pulled because I'm not smart. But I did take a photo of this old-rear end suby wagon;  So that'll have to do. Intercooler sprayer, did you say? Why yes! I whipped up a little attiny85-driven single-direction motor driver thingo to run the rear washer pump for around a second on power-on, and then whenever the TPS is over 90% (I might change this to a boost pressure linked thing, it's just a generic 0-5v analog input with a programmable threshold)  I've since cleaned up the circuit a bit, put plugs on everything, but I forgot to bring my phone downstairs while fixing it up, so no photos of that either. I am bad at documenting things. If you want to insult my code, I put it up here (yeah, yeah, tarduino, whatever, it works, it's simple, it takes up 1.3 of the 8 kilobytes I get) Do I expect this to actually make a significant performance difference? Nah. It might help with heat soak on the TMIC in our hot summers, though. The flex fuel sensor is in! Buuuuut.... yeah, I forgot to take a photo. I'll come back with one tomorrow. The setup is a tiny bit shady but eh, it'll work. I have in my posession also a 3 bar Haltech/GM MAP to replace the stock one, and a Haltech/Denso IAT sensor that I somehow have to install in the manifold - either drill/tap manifold, or drill/weld in bung, both of which are kind of hard to do while on car without risking swarf getting into the motor... But I also Really Don't Want to take the manifold off. That and hooking up the wideband and I'm done. Hell, I don't even technically need the wideband, I just want to have the gauge for peace of mind while driving the car. I've found a reputable tuner who actually replies to my emails, and they're happy to install the injectors for me; still waiting to hear back on whether they can do the IAT install for me, though. Would be nice if they can. They don't have much of a backlog, either, only a couple of weeks, so she could conceivably be dumping absurd amounts of power through that glass transmission before the end of the month! We can but hope. is anyone still reading this thread? sometimes I wonder if it's worth updating because I suspect it's kind of boring
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Mar 10, 2016 12:57
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Keep posting. 
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Mar 10, 2016 14:18
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literally a fish posted:is anyone still reading this thread? sometimes I wonder if it's worth updating because I suspect it's kind of boring Well we were until you forgot to take parts photos. The wagon kiiiiind of makes up for it, I suppose.  Kidding - I actually like reading pretty much all of the project threads because it's fuel for pipe dreams until I have space for a project car or three. Also it's neat to see what gets done with stuff available, as opposed to buying an expensive all in one kit.
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Mar 10, 2016 14:20
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Thanks guys  I just have your typical deep seated fear that I'm really just annoying people. Good to be reassured that I'm wrong I'll take a bunch of photos tomorrow, I promise 
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Mar 10, 2016 15:32
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Deffo still reading. Feel free to post more wagons! 
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Mar 10, 2016 15:35
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oh hey i did have one more photo I forgot! Defi gauge cluster!  As far as I can tell this is the only gauge pod ever made that fit these cars, and they were only sold in Japan by Defi, and only as a kit with the oil pressure/oil temp/boost pressure gauge set with the defi-link controller, and it cost something like $1000 at the time. They're almost unobtainable. I got into a bidding war over this one (only one I ever found on yahoo japan in like three months) and it cost me $600AUD all up with shipping... D: E: Also, does anyone know what this is?  Click for big. It's got two rather unusually thick wires going into it, and a serial number of some sort stamped on the side that gives zero google results. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 15:58
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literally a fish posted:E: Also, does anyone know what this is? Capacitor? My Toyota has things which look like that but are black and are capacitors. Try measuring it for capacitorness. Failing that, substitute 'capacitor' for inductor, diode or resistor (unlikely).
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Mar 11, 2016 00:03
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Capacitor? My Toyota has things which look like that but are black and are capacitors. Try measuring it for capacitorness. I did some more digging in the service manual and it appears to be "Power Window Circuit Breaker" - so a self-resetting circuit breaker for power window motor overloads. Neat!
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Mar 11, 2016 00:30
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^^ too slow at posting, whoops I'm going to guess that's B41 - Power Window Circuit Breaker. Take a look at pages WI-298, WI-346, and WI-348 in the 2004 Legacy manual's wiring section (PDF).
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Mar 11, 2016 00:40
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More photos, as promised! Finished IC spray controller hardware:  The red switch has a red LED in it that lights up dimly when the unit is armed, then glows in proportion to how hard it's driving the spray motor. I'd have taken a photo with the lid off, but it looks pretty much identical to what you saw in the previous post, just a couple minor wiring changes and I installed the flyback diode I forgot in the first PCB-based revision. Software's not yet complete, but i'll burn that bridge when I come to it. I even put connectors on the switch, power, and motor feeds, so I can actually install/remove the whole setup without any soldering. Gauges turned on and glowing:  They do a neat little gauge sweep on power-up. Very cute. The control box also has ~45sec of recording/playback "datalogging" capability (can't actually log, there's no way to get data out, but it's still neat) It also has configurable warning levels for boost pressure, oil pressure, oil temp etc, and peak recording, which is very nice. Current engine bay shot:  Close up on FCS install:  It's installed in the return line, which is the recommended position AIUI. It's a little bit shady, maybe? I need to move that pulsation damper a bit, too, the hose running from the fuel rail to it is a tad too long. All that's left after I finish some wiring is MAP/IAT/Injectors, all of which I believe the tuner will be happy to do for me - we're on the home stretch
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Mar 11, 2016 04:23
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You are wasting your time PWMing that thing and probably just feeding more noise into your audio system by doing so, but that isn't my problem. Also, if you want to put a connector on the board that will let you have less inline wiring connectors, I would go with a JAE MX34, TE multilock 040/070 hybrid, or molex mini50 series. All are available from digikey/mouser in DIY friendly quantities and can be had as right angle and optionally vertical mount wire-to-board style connectors.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:47
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Nice case though, where'd you get it?
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Mar 11, 2016 04:55
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Oh I know it's a complete and total waste of time, if it dumps any appreciable noise into the audio system i'll just change the code so it's just hard-on/hard-off. It only spends a quarter second ramping up/down, once it's actually running the duty cycle is 100% - it's pretty much just a soft-start. There's no actual relation between the analog input and PWM%, it's just "turn on over this threshold then turn off once it's been under the threshold for half a second" Oooh, nice shiny connectors. I'm OK with it as it is right now but if I do another hardware revision I'll definitely do that. I was originally going to use a small 8 pin molex-pci-express-power-style connector, but I really wanted to fit it all in that tiny little case, and there's no room for a proper connector unless I were to spin up a custom PCB, which isn't worth it for a one-off
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Mar 11, 2016 05:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Nice case though, where'd you get it? The previous post I made isn't showing up for some reason (yay forums bugs?) - I told you in IRC already but in case anyone else is interested, it's this $4 enclosure from Jaycar, a local equivalent to Radio Shack that doesn't suck and is still in business (actually growing in size, apparently) E: Ah, there we go. Posting another post made that one show up. 
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Mar 11, 2016 05:25
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A molex mini50 would definitely be your best option then. IIRC pcie video power connectors are molex minifit junior, a more blocky, prehistoric design that is a bit larger. PCB fab is getting surprisingly cheap. I usually use 33each/66each/4pcb/barebonespcb (all same company) or pcb-pool.
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Mar 11, 2016 13:27
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kastein posted:A molex mini50 would definitely be your best option then. IIRC pcie video power connectors are molex minifit junior, a more blocky, prehistoric design that is a bit larger. Well, if this works, that's still $25 I don't have to spend and a couple weeks I don't have to wait I usually use pcbway - 10pcs up to 10cm by 10cm for US$14, with free slowpost. Right now it looks like they're even running a free DHL promotion, and you get a choice of colors and stuff.They're not ENIG gold-plated purple boards like OSHPark (who i've also used) but they're a drat sight quicker/faster, and I've not had a failed board yet (only two orders thus far though); they made the boards I used for the couple tiny glowy RGB thing prototypes I made and then abandoned due to lovely battery life off a single coin cell (obvious in retrospect);  Not bad. FWIW though I installed and tested the unit today and I get no perceptible noise on my sound system, so I'm probably just going to leave it as-is. Still need to hook it up to the TPS & calibrate the analog input threshold though. I'll have to see if any australian suppliers have mini50 connectors - digikey and mouser charge ridiculous shipping to Australia on small orders 
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Mar 11, 2016 14:08
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literally a fish posted:Well, if this works, that's still $25 I don't have to spend and a couple weeks I don't have to wait Is that so? I did a quick check, and they seem to charge $25 shipping on $13 worth of boards, lol. Is there a coupon code or something for the free shipping?
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Mar 12, 2016 04:49
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Raluek posted:Is that so? I did a quick check, and they seem to charge $25 shipping on $13 worth of boards, lol. Is there a coupon code or something for the free shipping? it appears that I forgot to actually select a country, and that's why the shipping showed $0. Shows $37US now, lol. To their credit though I ordered some boards on a Saturday night and had them by Wednesday evening.
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Mar 12, 2016 06:08
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 Tuner Guy posted:Hi Andrew, I CAN ALMOST TASTE THE BOOST, GOONS
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Mar 15, 2016 09:35
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literally a fish posted:
does (will) it dose? please make it dose.
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Mar 15, 2016 10:00
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Big Daddy Keynes posted:does (will) it dose? Well, the BOV i'm installing has a screw on top that is supposed to be adjusted to reduce compressor surge. Which I will be adjusting to maximum surge position. So, maybe?
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Mar 15, 2016 10:34
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The BOV is in, and sadly, it does not dose, even at maximum spring tension WE ARE BOOKED IN WITH THE TUNER ON MONDAY Also I took it to a tyre shop and had the wheels put on, they gave me half off because it took 30 min longer than they expected, and the guy who handed the keys back over to me asked "Dude, what the hell IS this thing??" which was fun  JDM GOLD RIMZZZZZZ YO   Finally got around to splitting the old block apart. Took off the coolant crossover pipe, noticed it was cracked, looked down and oh hi  Numerous bolts and some BFH fuckery later;  Punched the pistons out, broken one came out in pieces;  THIS IS YOUR PISTON  THIS IS YOUR PISTON ON KNOCK  And remember, this thing still loving ran (after a fashion) 3 CYLINDERS 2 TURBOS
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Mar 19, 2016 02:10
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Dropped off at the tuner this morning 
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Mar 21, 2016 06:08
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literally a fish posted:Dropped off at the tuner this morning looks minty fresh, if you get it dosing bring it to coburg and i'll buy you a kebab
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Mar 22, 2016 09:43
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literally a fish posted:
Don't knock it. (Pun intended) One of my undergrad class projects was an Atmega powered washer bottle intercooler sprayer on my mates Forester XT with a built STI motor in it. Fully automated temperature based control. He said it made a noticeable difference when doing around town driving. Really cut down on the heat soak.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:08
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Big Daddy Keynes posted:looks minty fresh, if you get it dosing bring it to coburg and i'll buy you a kebab will keep you posted charliemonster42 posted:Don't knock it. (Pun intended) Interesting. Well, I'd love to report back that the car is all tuned and I've tested it and stuff but the tuner has had the car for THREE loving WEEKS now and I can barely get a response to my emails. loving spergs. I know exactly what he's doing, the same poo poo I did when I was a freelance IT guy. You know, that thing where you don't reply to the email yet because the answer is a bad one, but you think it'll be a good answer soon, so you use that justify replying tomorrow instead, and forget to reply at all. It takes a while to work out that people just want a goddamn response, regardless of what that response is. And I can't easily get mad at him or anything because he's got my car hostage. Meanwhile he keeps posting stuff on his facebook page of other peoples' cars - I can't read too much into this because for all I know they've been waiting as long as I have, but it doesn't seem super likely. At least my car gets to make cameos in the background behind a pair of ridiculously fast Lancers (and parked ominously close to a Soarer);  When all is said and done and I have the key back in my hands, there will be serious discussion about how I am not paying what he quoted when the job took a minimum of seven times longer than the quoted time, with no explanation and me having to constantly email for updates. why is it so loving hard to find subaru tuners who don't suck rear end
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Apr 9, 2016 02:56
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Because people that like working on cars and modifying them, only to start doing it professionally are not necessarily the same people that can run a business. Been there. Done that. I'll tell you about my civic sometime.
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Apr 9, 2016 03:12
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Oh I know exactly what he's doing. My car isn't super exciting to him, and has an EMS he hasn't used before, so it requires more effort than usual, and he's got all these other cooler cars with haltech boxes and whatnot that he does know how to run, so he works on those and mine gets shoved on the backburner. So I email him to find out what's happening and he gets the email, remembers that he hasn't done anything, feels guilty, resolves to do something and email me when it's done, gets distracted, doesn't email, repeat. Same poo poo I used to do to my ITS clients before I worked in a real customer service job & discovered that people just want an answer, never mind what the answer actually is. I'm sure it also doesn't help that he was running late when I dropped the car off, so he hasn't met me in person (I handed it over to another tech, despite saying that I was happy to wait for him to show up the guy was pretty insistent that I leave) so I'm not a real human to him, I'm just a guy on the other end of some emails. I'd just appreciate if he'd been a bit more up front about how long it would take and if he would REPLY TO MY drat EMAILS OR ANSWER THE PHONE you know? If I don't hear anything by Monday I'm gonna drive up and talk to him in person.
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Apr 9, 2016 03:23
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Finally heard back from the tuner. Apparently the shipping lube on two out of the matched set of four ID1000s I bought hardened enough to stick the injector shut (a quick search of the internets reveals this is a fairly well known (or a least known) issue. Solution is to push the pintle down with a piece of soft plastic or a ball point pen, which frees it from the hardened shipping oil, and it's not a problem anymore. I suspect this set of injectors sat on a shelf at the local distributor for a while. This is annoying because of course the tuner/mechanic didn't test the injectors before installing them, so they have to come back out again, which I am promised is happening today. Why does nothing ever just work goddamnit
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Apr 12, 2016 04:11
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Is the shop that currently has it the same guy who installed them in the first place? At least then it would be his problem to deal with it.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:27
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Raluek posted:Is the shop that currently has it the same guy who installed them in the first place? At least then it would be his problem to deal with it. Yeah, same guy who installed them. He's going to waive the labor costs for pulling them out, cleaning the tips off / freeing up the pintle, and putting them back in, so that's something. I'm still pissed that they said four days and it's been over three weeks and I've gotten gently caress all in communication. This guy's supposed to be really good at this and so far i'm not super impressed. Hopefully the dyno curve and butt-dyno curve once I get it back make up for the BS...
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Apr 12, 2016 06:43
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This car/shop will be the death of me. Now I have tuner guy telling me that the ECU won't properly drive all 4 ID1000s. Apparently which one of the four won't drive isn't consistent, and it's not a wiring issue. This sounds like bullshit to me because why the hell would it work with the stock injectors and then not work with ID1000s? And why would it randomly be one out of four injectors that doesn't work? The only thing I can think of is maybe some sort of weird overcurrent failure mode on the ECU, but nobody I've spoken to says they've ever had any issues with driving ID1000s off stock ECUs. This shop specializes in tuning things that have Haltech standalone EMSes installed and he's trying to push me to install a Haltech box in the car. Which is over three thousand dollars just for the ECU and CAN wideband controller. And another $125 for the plug set. As you can imagine, i'm not super enthusiastic about this idea. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm being bullshitted at because the tuner is a lazy oval office who doesn't want to deal with tuning on a platform he's not used to using (ECULabs) despite telling me it wouldn't be a problem at the start. So I've told him I don't have the money for an Elite (mostly true, I do but holy gently caress I am not spending $3k without a second opinion, no sir) and that I'd like him to return it to stock and I'll take it away. I reckon it's about even odds on whether I'm being lied to or not. I'm so loving over this poo poo I swear to god Should have just bought a goddamn Elite in the first place and done this poo poo myself - if I'd done the injector swap myself then there'd be no risk of someone BSing me like I think might be happening loving subarus
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Apr 20, 2016 04:13
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Well that's frustrating. Have you sent ID or the place you bought them from an email about it?
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Apr 20, 2016 04:18
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Yeah, they say they know about the sticking issue from packaging lube, but they don't know of anything that would cause one out of four injectors to not work at random - according to the tuner, which one of the four won't fire changes, and all four have worked properly independently, just not all at the same time, which makes no sense to me at all
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Apr 20, 2016 04:43
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Sounds like a huge pain in the rear end. I'd be taking my car out of there pretty quickly. Have you physically been in this shop yet to see this guy duplicate the problems he's talking about? I'm questioning why they wouldn't have the injectors flow tested before being installed. It's such an important piece to the performance equation and it would have revealed the stuck injectors for a few bucks.
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Apr 20, 2016 15:36
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RapeWhistle posted:Sounds like a huge pain in the rear end. I'd be taking my car out of there pretty quickly. Have you physically been in this shop yet to see this guy duplicate the problems he's talking about? Yeah, I'm really regretting going with this shop, especially since I've found out the place that was recommended to me by the guy doing the ECU modifications only stopped answering my emails because the guy I was talking to quit suddenly and I got lost in the shuffle. i I'll answer the second part of your question after this little bit; I got an email back from etuner (current place); Etuner posted:Hi Andrew, I am happy to swap them back and tune to 98 if the oe ecu is playing ball with the stock injectors. The injectors weren't flow tested before install as they're a matched set of ID1000s that rock up with a flowbench sheet; I'd personally have at least bench tested them myself. I'm driving up tomorrow to check it out myself and verify the problem (as well as check/verify a couple of things that I think might be causing the issue, injector latency and whatnot, have been set correctly in the ECU software - it's not super intuitive). This will end in one of 3 ways; with me fixing the problem with software, having the car towed to the other tuning shop, or asking them to return to stock and do a quick basic tune. Regardless I suspect there's no way it ends with anything but me arranging to get the car back relatively soon, whereupon I will take it to the place that I know has a lot of experience with ECULabs tuning, which I should have gone to in the first place. I'm hoping that it's a simple software issue and the ECU isn't damaged. I delivered it to him fully functional with all four injectors firing, so yeah. I just wish I didn't have to deal with this nonsense when I'm barely over a week away from some fairly major surgery and a whole bunch of other crap, along with dad being overseas - It never rains, but it pours. Hopefully I will have some good news tomorrow
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Apr 20, 2016 17:16
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I FIXED IT 3 things: 1. There was a bit of misinformation; injectors 1 and 3 were always the misbehaving ones, injector 1 never worked, injector 3 sometimes worked. 2. Subaru use the same Denso plug housing and contacts (with different keying) for the cam angle sensor and the injectors. 3. Injector Dynamics/T1 Race Development's adaptor leads from Denso to USCAR for the ID1000s are not keyed. Yeah, the cam angle sensor plug was connected to injector 1, injector 1's plug wasn't connected to anything, and the cam angle sensor was unplugged. End result? some really nonsensical symptoms, and an ECU that was pretty much doing this:  Swapped the connectors back to where they ought to be and it fired right up. In the interests of just getting it all done, I've elected to let them keep it, since after chatting with Ertan (mechanic) for a while I'm pretty sure they were on the level. Most of the email contact I've had has been with his brother, Cihan, so I had a degree or two of separation muddling things up a bit. I've been promised tuesday or wednesday, and that I'll get updates along the way. Here's hoping!
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Apr 21, 2016 06:33
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Hahaha what in the gently caress. "hey why am I getting a code for cam sensor plus misfires? oh well, probably bad injectors or the ecu"
jamal fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Apr 21, 2016 |
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Apr 21, 2016 06:44
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