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Fermented Tinal posted:39 years and 4 months young. I can see toyota shipping it without a box, and calling it a MPV to avoid the chicken tax.
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Oct 1, 2015 05:35
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Powershift posted:Was it ever an american truck? It's possible it was imported through the US but the truck was purchased in Canada as far as I know. The previous owner imported it from Saskatchewan but it spent time in Manitoba where I think it was originally purchased. Unfortunately I can't be completely sure because the original title was lost a long time ago before such things were stored on computer and the one I have only has record of the owner in Sask (who is claimed to be the second owner) and the guy I bought it from. What's interesting is I also have the title for the donor BJ70, so somewhere out there is a land cruiser without a driveline that I technically own.
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Oct 1, 2015 05:53
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Let's talk gauges, because I'm kinda not sure what to do about mine. My stock gauge cluster's speedo is in mph being as Canada didn't switch to metric until well after my truck was manufactured, and it's no where near accurate due to the transmission swap and larger-than-stock tires. I honestly don't know how out it is and won't know until I have the whole thing reassembled and test-driven. What I do know is that I cannot pass a safety without an accurate speedometer. This leaves me with a few options, some of which may or may not exist. Option 1: Locate an original gauge cluster in km/h and hope it works (unicorn parts, only ones I can readily find are for later models). This will require one of those modules that goes between the speedometer and the cable to make it accurate. This would probably cost several hundred dollars for something in poorer condition than my existing cluster. Option 2: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-gauge-restoration-package.510724/ See if these guys still make the kits and modify my existing cluster to metric. My existing cluster is in pretty good condition for its age, the needles are faded and I'm not entirely sure if the oil pressure gauge works due to the sender being improperly hooked up and the needle being buried to the far left but I do know the rest of it functions. What I can see without disassembling it is rust-free. This would also require a module to accurize the speedo. This is likely the least-costly way to go assuming their pricing hasn't changed. Option 3: http://man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/Dash%20Gauge%20Panels.htm This replaces the stock bezel and requires me to purchase and install aftermarket gauges, this means I'd probably need to get a sender to convert the mechanical cable to a digital signal. As you can see it is meant to hold both a speedo and a tach as well as a few other gauges and I could essentially go fully digital and pick gauges I like the look of. I'd assume that the total cost of this plus gauges, plus sending unit, plus misc crap would run me at least as much as a stock cluster. Option 4: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=923/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd923.htm Shoot the loving moon, it uses my stock bezel, costs $800, looks sexy as gently caress, and comes with everything needed to hook it up. Only problem is I'm not sure if the metric version has a mechanical speedo or a digital one, their wording and specifications aren't very clear on this. $800 USD, so probably well north of $1k CAD once all is said and done which means I'd have to sell the winter tires for my car and possibly a kidney. Did I mention it looks sexy? I'd totally go black alloy faces and red lighting because  So AI, what are your thoughts? I've sent an email to the people who make Option 2, but I really am about ready to fill my bathtub with ice and put a kidney on craigslist. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 07:05
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I'd wait until the I tested to see how out of spec it is before I did anything. Do you need a speedo in kph to pass these days?
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Oct 2, 2015 12:47
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Yeah I'd really wait. My 66' Yamaha passed with a gauge that would wildly gyrate +- 10mph and I'm in Ontario as well. Essentially everything on my bike got a pass because of age.
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Oct 2, 2015 14:28
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Shame you aren't in Australia, there are 3 million landcruisers at my local wreckers and they are all metric.
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Oct 2, 2015 15:09
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Big Daddy Keynes posted:Shame you aren't in Australia, there are 3 million landcruisers at my local wreckers and they are all metric. Brutal winters and unicorn parts or wildlife out to kill all humans and limitless spares. Cruisers really do seem to exist only for extremes. There isn't a single wrecker within 200km of me that has any land cruisers, let alone 40 series ones from the mid 70s and I'd never find a metric cluster from that era even if they had a 40 series. Most of the North American aftermarket and NOS part suppliers are in the States which makes stuff almost prohibitively expensive considering our low dollar and shipping, not to mention primarily mph-only clusters. A lot of the stuff from ebay comes from Asia or Australia and I don't see many listed. Would you be willing to price out a working and good condition cluster and shipping to Owen Sound, Ontario from your local wrecker? I expect it'll be quite a few  , but it'd be nice to know what the actual cost of that option is.
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Oct 3, 2015 00:45
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Fermented Tinal posted:Brutal winters and unicorn parts or wildlife out to kill all humans and limitless spares. Cruisers really do seem to exist only for extremes. it would be possible to chuck it on the slow boat but that could take 2 months or more significantly cheaper tho a friend got a 6.0 shipped from la to melbourne for 200 bucks this way I will add it to the list but i suspect the cluster would be pretty haggard from a pick a part and i have no way to test it, i could talk to some specialty wreckers for you there's a landcruiser specialist maybe 1500m from my house (one of the main benefits to living in an industrial area is the number of car bits i can buy within walking distance)
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Oct 3, 2015 04:19
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^^^ I managed to get ahold of the guy who makes the restoration kits, he still does them as a made-to-order thing and I think I'll just go that route even though I have a near-pristine mph cluster. Not rusty, juts dirty. Hopefully the oil pressure gauge isn't hosed, the needle is buried to the left but nothing appears or sounds broken when I give the cluster a shake. I also just found a pair of wing mirrors for $80, coming from Australia. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...323ea7c&vxp=mtr Please explain why anyone would pay north of $500 for an oem pair. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-Landcruiser-FJ40-45-Rectangle-Mirrors-Arms-/301722260993?hash=item46400c5601&vxp=mtr Now to figure out if I can install a '77 and later rear view mirror on a '76 because I wouldn't mind having a prismatic rear view mirror. Need to dig up my old mirror which is buried in the trunk of my car. E: I have no idea if it's really 97,188.8 miles or 197,188.8 miles or what. The odo works but there is no record of it rolling over anywhere in my thick folder for the truck. The title currently states 97,188.8km because the people at the MOT didn't listen when I said it was in miles. When I convert the speedo to km/h I imagine the odo will have to remain in miles because of gearing fuckery, that sound right? EE: I did find a NOS km/h cluster in Australia: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Landcruiser-FJ40-Instrument-Cluster-Dash-HJ47-FJ45-BJ42-BJ40-HJ45-/231704831023?hash=item35f2af242f EEE: Wow, gently caress all of that earlier poo poo about clusters, found a NOS one here in Canada and it's inexpensive, how come I didn't find this before: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANDCRUISER...536d3b2&vxp=mtr You have got to be loving kidding me: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-FJ40-BJ40-TAIL-LIGHT-LENS-SET-81551-35061-81561-35061-/262047538758 How did I not find this in two months of searches on ebay? http://stores.ebay.com/CRUISER-ADDICTION?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Oct 6, 2015 |
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Oct 6, 2015 22:53
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This is an obscenely cool truck and you are awesome for restoring it like this. That said, $249 seems like a screaming deal for an NOS gauge cluster, as long as the quality is there. I honestly think you'd struggle to find individual gauges and build your own for anything close to that.
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Oct 7, 2015 12:54
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Ripoff posted:This is an obscenely cool truck and you are awesome for restoring it like this. It is a screaming deal- That wouldn't even cover the cost of my oil pressure/temp gauge SUB ASSEMBLY on my cluster for the 100 series!
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Oct 7, 2015 13:16
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Ferremit posted:It is a screaming deal- That wouldn't even cover the cost of my oil pressure/temp gauge SUB ASSEMBLY on my cluster for the 100 series! Yeah, I totally just bought the gently caress out of it.
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Oct 7, 2015 13:59
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Guess what arrived already? Now to disassemble it so I can set the odometer, I hope I don't gently caress this up. 
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Oct 8, 2015 19:25
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Week off from work starts tonight at 7pm. Sometimes this contintental-style shift rotation stuff fucks me up, but the timing couldn't be better this go round. Got an email from Gozzard saying the tub rework is done and its ready to get picked up.  Led bulbs and el wire were ordered for lighting up the new gauge cluster, which I've disassembled to set the new odo.  I love dead-simple mechanical poo poo from before I was born, so easy to work with. After disassembling the housing I had to remove two screws, loosen the screws on the speedo face and pull a single pin to get the odo out.  Gotta remember to mentally tack a 1 on the end of that, does this mean my new odo is technically rolled now because 97188.8 miles is 156410.2 km? Found some wayward truck parts on my door step when I got home from work a couple days ago.  It's gonna be a fun week off.
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Oct 15, 2015 11:11
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I'd wanted to disassemble the new cab and just carry it into the shop rather than use the tractor forks to lift the entire thing. My dad had other plans.  For some reason he hit the brakes, the cab jumped a bit on the forks so I rushed forward to push it back in place at the exact moment he decided to launch the tractor forward, essentially throwing the cab into the space I was occupying. I tried my hardest but there was no way I was gonna keep 400+lbs of fiberglass and steel from falling 4' to the ground and attempted to get out of the way. It clipped my elbow and sent me to the ground, luckily the rest of my body kept it from completely flipping, much to the complaint of my knees. The carnage:  This is the worse of the two sides, just some cracks in the gelcoat on the weakest part of the entire tub.  Roof didn't like the windshield violently jerking forward. Can't see it here, but it's cracked all the way through and will need some minor repair work, nothing some fiberglass repair and body fill can't fix.  Windshield glass didn't like being jerked violently forward and hitting the ground. The bullet/rock hole was already there and on the list of things to get fixed, now instead of getting it filled with resin I need a new windshield, luckily it's completely flat and not very large so that shouldn't be a huge pain. Let this be a little reminder that you should get rock chips and holes like this filled quickly and never put it off, even if the vehicle is gonna sit for 3 years.  I think I took more damage than the cab, other knee is similar. The pain went away pretty quickly, but my elbow took the brunt of the the force and is still whining like a wet fan belt with a loose idler.  Yeah, uh, I think this entire debacle could've ended a lot worse for me and the cab, I guess the 'yota gods were looking out for me today. Anyways, onto more important things than a fart's worth of damage. At least now I have a better idea as to just how tough this new cab is. Tub modifications, the floor looks a bit hacked up but there's easily an extra quarter inch of fiberglass under all those seams, which gave 0 shits when the tub hit the ground.  The fuel tank and passenger seat now fit with 0 need for modification, though I discovered that the passenger side of the bench actually sits on an angle (and mounted like this in the original cab) so I'm gonna do a minor mofication to make it sit straight (assuming it doesn't interfere with anything) because I don't understand why Toyota designed it to be like that. Now to figure out how to locate the rear body mounts and seat/seatbelt mounts inside the pocket here.  And here.  Current plan is to block off the void on the rightmost part of the first of the two above pictures and thicken up the glass the rest of the way, put in a 1/4" thick 3"x60" plate all the way across and use 1' long 7" c-channel to make the body mounts themselves, gonna have to wait until Monday to pick up the steel though. Doing it this way means I won't have to modify one of the mounts on the driver's side and can locate the seatbelt and seat mount in their "correct" locations. I had hoped that Gozzard was gonna make the entire shelf across the back of the tub the same width but I guess that got lost in translation because my father confirmed that how the shelf looks now is what Mike said he was gonna have his son do. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 00:01
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This thread needs new updates!
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Feb 21, 2016 01:33
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Absolutely. Looks like it's coming along well, although it's pretty winter-y in Onterrible from what I understand.
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Feb 21, 2016 02:18
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slidebite posted:Absolutely. Looks like it's coming along well, although it's pretty winter-y in Onterrible from what I understand. Depends where you live. In southern Ontario all the snow is limited to just London. This screenshot illustrates natures hate for London. It was like that for 4 days straight. 
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Feb 21, 2016 08:43
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How's the project going?
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Mar 5, 2016 01:52
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I've been making some progress, and have loads of pictures, but I've been lazy about posting updates. I'll get around to doing a big one soon. Right now the project is on hold while I amass enough money to get new running boards, dashbox, and more misc poo poo. Turns out when I started putting the new tub on and lining things up that a key part of getting the fenders right involves the running boards, and mine are trashed. Here's a teaser. Patched the frame:  Welded up a crossmember to go under the new tub:  The channels are the bodymounts and the plate is for the rear mounts of the seats, lower seatbelt mounts, etc. Found out the body mount channels were too tall so I modified them a bit:  I thought the bottom of the cab and the bottom of the box were on the same plane, turns out the cab sits a little lower. Got ahead of myself a little and started mounting stuff into the new tub. This isn't 100% up to date, as the steering column is also mounted now as it's necessary for locking in the alignment of the cab:  As she sits atm, waiting for parts and money:  I found out my front bib is kinda wanged, and while it'll work for now I'm debating ordering a fiberglass one along with a new headlight bezel. E: I've also had an idea about rust-protecting the inside of the frame. Instead of trying to get it perfectly clean and dom16/por15 the inside of the rails, I'm thinking about expanding foam, specifically firestop (I think the stuff I've got is rated to like 500F) polyurethane foam. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 20:20
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Isn't all expanding foam porous and prone to wicking and holding water directly onto the metal it touches?
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Mar 10, 2016 20:30
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wallaka posted:Isn't all expanding foam porous and prone to wicking and holding water directly onto the metal it touches? Was going to say that. I don't think its what you'd want to use. Do it right the first time (don't ask me what right is, but someone will pitch in) hahah.
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Mar 10, 2016 20:43
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Actually, a lot of spray foams are closed-cell and don't soak up water because they are not porous. Open-cell foams are basically sponges. Like the foam you'd use for sealing something going from the interior to the exterior of your house would absolutely have to be closed-cell or it'd serve almost no point.
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Mar 10, 2016 20:49
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You want a dedicated cavity wax/oil product. Something that sprays in relatively thin and creeps in everywhere, then the "carrier" evaporates and leaves behind the waxy residue that protects the metal.
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Mar 10, 2016 20:50
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Kroil or 3M cavity wax would be a better idea. The foam isn't terrible, but closes off all future options. And won't let any existing moisture evaporate.
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Mar 11, 2016 02:57
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Tthe thing the worries me the most is the way the frame rails are constructed. It's two rivetted pieces of channel instead of box frame. The rails accumulate a lot of random poo poo so water has a chance to sit. Where they overlap is the rust zone that worries me the most now that I've taken care of the perforations and there is at least another 30 years worth of metal. Right now is not a good time for me to be thinking about Extreme Makeover: Truck Frame Edition. I imagine my truck is going to spend a lot of its time dirty and my neighbours will likely start bitching about dirt washing down the street. I just thought foam was a novel way to keep the inside of the rails clean by filling the space instead of regular oil/wax or even trying to get dom16 into impossibly tight spaces. My '88 Pickup has a shitload of undercoating on it and I'm convinced I'll burn to death when I have to take a torch to the torsion bars so I can put the new ones in, but hey, at least I have a lot of spare body mount bushings for when I fix the cab on that one too. I've shown you guys my '88 Pickup, right?  Yup.    This movie contains graphic content not suitable for all audiences.  Viewer discretion is advised.  
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Mar 11, 2016 05:42
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Don't use expanding foam. It's for houses, not cars and you've already done too much worthwhile work to make a mistake like that. Eastwood internal frame coating wasn't mentioned previously and is another good option too: https://www.google.com/search?q=eas..._sm=91&ie=UTF-8 POR the outside too (or a like product) and don't drive it on salted roads in the winter.
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Mar 11, 2016 06:17
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iirc the problem with expanding foam is that although you can get closed cell stuff, it tends to shrink over time, which leaves lots of small pockets for moisture to accumulate in and eventually rust. As mentioned cavity wax seems to be where it's at.
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Mar 11, 2016 06:50
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Nth'ing everybody else on the foam. You can overcome your avatar, OP!
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Mar 11, 2016 14:45
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Larrymer posted:Nth'ing everybody else on the foam. You can overcome your avatar, OP! But I quite like this hole and think it could be a little roomier if I just dug a little deeper.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:23
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Fermented Tinal posted:But I quite like this hole and think it could be a little roomier if I just dug a little deeper.  Fluid Film is also another option. It's not as solid as wax, and should be re-done every few years, but it works awesome.
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Mar 11, 2016 20:39
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Obviously oxygen in the cavities is the problem so displace it with the molten metal of your choice. I suggest lead.
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Mar 11, 2016 22:23
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sharkytm posted:
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Mar 11, 2016 22:35
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I like the concept behind the Eastwood frame coating Mat_Drinks mentioned, where it reacts to the existing rust to form a protective layer. That's similar to what dom/por does.
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Mar 12, 2016 19:03
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Don't you just love being essentially hosed for money, so you can't fix the vehicle you want to drive and instead the vehicle you are stuck driving goes ahead and does this to you? Long story short, I was out hunting with my father a week ago and when we failed to murderate some turkeys he noticed a lot of noise (to the tune of a bad bearing) coming from under the hood of my beater. We discovered the idler pulley is due for a replacement because I guess 70,000km ago the mechanic who made $4800 rebuilding this car's engine decided not to replace wear parts or something. The CEL idiot light came on a couple days later as the racket under the hood of my car started to get louder than Volume 14 on my radio. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhLisJzP9rU It's playing nice in the video and most of the noise you hear is coming from an area disturbingly close to my power steering pump. Which probably needs new fluid...  So naturally, what do we do in the case of strange noises and CELs? Throw parts at them of course!  I'm 6'3", my feet are size 14, my hands are proportional to that, which means haha good luck getting in there with anything, let alone a tiny 10mm wrench! Oh, and to loosen the tensioner I have to pull off at least one plastic skid plate and come at it from underneath.  So I decided to say "gently caress it" for now, it'll last a few more days at least, hopefully. I only have a 5km commute! At least I can get something productive done related to my piece of poo poo car, right? Like put the summer tires on, right?  Goddamnit. 
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 00:57 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 00:49
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Get a bicycle, ride to work, and save money to fix the Cruiser.
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May 13, 2016 05:54
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gimpsuitjones posted:Get a bicycle, ride to work, and save money to fix the Cruiser. This is literally the only way I have money to fix jeeps.
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May 13, 2016 13:04
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I would actually consider doing that, except I drive more people than just me to work. I need this car to at least limp through the next 3ish months until things pick up again at work and I get enough hours to save up some money. Barring my car suffering some kind of catastrophic failure, the bulk of my tax return is going to be going to truck stuff, but I'm in limbo waiting on the CRA to mail my cheque.
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May 14, 2016 00:39
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Well, the CEL is gone. My ECU reported to me that my cooling system is working so well right now, it is in fact unable to maintain stable operation of the engine. I've wondered why on cold (-20C) days going down steep hills at 80km/h the temp needle's gone down to 1/3rd. My guess is the temperature sensor's on the blink and I give absolutely zero fucks about it. E: 400km, still haven't changed that belt and pulley. Busted pulley looks ready to fly off, I figure that'll give me enough room to actually get the bolt out. I am riding with a 10mm wrench, floor jack, and 4 jack stands in my trunk for when the time for emergency surgery arrives.
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May 22, 2016 04:16
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If your that worried about chassis corrosion, strip it down to a bare chassis, get it bead blasted to find the dodgy bits, fix them up, then send it off to be acid dipped and hot dip galvanised. Theres hundreds of those 40 series kicking around australia 50 years after being manufactured on the factory chassis, so its probably a moot point. Tho we dont tend to salt the earth with impunity like you wierdos do...
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May 22, 2016 09:35
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