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I've heard galv dip can warp the chassis? Would love to do that with my 70. It's on the cards one day. For now: lots of fish oil.
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May 22, 2016 11:24
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gimpsuitjones posted:Would love to do that with my 70. It's on the cards one day. For now: lots of fish oil. I dunno if that's a joke post or not, but gardeners do this with their tools. Doesn't it smell like hot hell?
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May 22, 2016 23:13
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meltie posted:I dunno if that's a joke post or not, but gardeners do this with their tools. Doesn't it smell like hot hell? Yes it does. I remember using cans of that stuff on my mum's car when we found half the driver's floor was rotted out.
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May 23, 2016 00:03
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meltie posted:I dunno if that's a joke post or not, but gardeners do this with their tools. Doesn't it smell like hot hell? For the first week, sure
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May 24, 2016 06:46
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My tax return finally arrived, and this year the CRA got my address right!  I haven't even deposited the cheque yet and have started ordering the cruiser parts I need. Running boards, headlight bezel, and front bib from the same guy who made the new tub. If I have enough left over to spare I'll pick up a dashbox and maybe a headliner. Car news: my shitbox has now developed a nice heavy clunk in the suspension on the front driver's side when I turn hard left, but at least now I can afford to get the one summer tire patched, and maybe I'll do the idler pulley now that I have a safety net to fall back into in case I gently caress it up or find out something else on it is hosed. Once again, for like the 8th time in the life of this car, the exhaust seal between the downpipe and the section of tubing before the cat has failed. Hell, I can even afford to do that last oil change on her that I said I was gonna do back in the OP (we're only like 6k km overdue and I have not checked the dipstick once). Also, did I ever mention my car falls under that airbag recall from 3 years ago that Mazda still hasn't actually figured out how to fix? She's literally a deathtrap on four wheels at this point. E: And there goes my entire tax return, but in about four weeks I'll have the rest of the body parts I need to get her back together.  New bed is $4k though, so I guess that's a pipedream for now. 
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 20:21 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 18:06
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So, I took the punctured tire to a shop to get properly patched and rebalanced like a good little consumerist whore. They said the tire was unrepairable and offered to sell me some $300/ea ones because those are what they had on hand. Refused to do just two, had to be a set, I said no and went to another tire shop. They said the tire was unrepairable and offered to sell me some phased out goodyear's for $140/ea which put them in line with the $140/ea I paid for the ones already on it. Guess which shop sold me two new tires for my piece of poo poo car. Guess which shop is a Firestone, and which is the local Tirecraft affiliate. Here's a hint, I decided to replace another that was equally worn and also turned out to have a previously unnoticed bulge by a stone that had just about worked all the way through. Also, I just blew another $385 on my shitheap. I wish I'd taken a picture, both tires were wrecked. Just an FYI, Hercules Roadster tires are utter loving garbage. Roughly 20k kms on them and I've been a good boy about rotating. Anyways, NURSE! Prep the patient for surgery.  That was not as easy as it looks. Prep the surgeon for surgery. Wait, what? What the gently caress do you mean there's only 6 beers left in the fridge? Goddamnit, WE NEED MORE BEER! Okay, one quick visit to Ye Olde Biere Store later, we resume our story. NURSE! Prep the patient for surgery.  Try not to tear up the lawn, please. Prep the surgeon for surgery.  More in a few hours, we'll see if I get that idler pulley replaced or if I'm walking to work tomorrow night. E: I wasn't kidding about riding around with a floor jack and stands just in case I needed to do an emergency roadside belt and pulley replacement. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jun 2, 2016 |
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Jun 2, 2016 18:10
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So, surgery went fairly well once my friend who was assisting and I figured out how to take the tension off the belt. First order of business was to take off the two plastic covers inside the passenger wheel well, then take off the plastic cover under the engine itself so that some leverage could be applied in the right places. Old belt and pulley came out easy, new pulley went in easy, new belt was a shitload tighter and I had to really crank on the spring-loaded tensioner to get it on. Still:  I'm starting to wonder if maybe the pulley got hosed by the belt, it's not terribly stretched or worn compared to the new one, but the tensioner was almost maxed out with it. With new belt and pulley my AC is blowing colder, and the lights on the dash don't dim during low-idle, which have been staples of my ownership of this shitheap for at least a year and a half now. Got my summer tires on too, and discovered the box of front brake pads in my trunk may finally be seeing use soon.
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Jun 3, 2016 15:30
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the rubber manufacturers association is constantly bombarding tire shops with their "guidelines" for tire repair, which state that nothing in the sidewall or shoulder area is repairable, and they probably considered your nail in the shoulder area. However, any old tire shop worth their salt will know better and can properly repair sidewalls and shoulder area injuries. It all depends on what the tire looks like on the inside when it is dismounted because a little hole on the outside could be hiding some serious damage inside.
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Jun 4, 2016 18:44
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I wish I'd taken pictures of them because one thing I did demand was to look over the tires after they came off. The nail might have been stuck in the tire for awhile because on the inside it was "where is the chunk of missing tire?" As for the other tire, it was probably still runnable, but I prefer to match up rubber front vs back if I can't have all four be the same and I was leery about the nice large cracks in the tread coming from where a stone had just about worked all the way through. Of course, the nail was holding air in the tire and it held the 32psi Mazda suggests is the correct pressure for my car just fine for a month...
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Jun 4, 2016 23:31
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So, still waiting on parts for the truck, but in the meantime my car's been a real bitch despite me even taking the time to clean the interior. You may have noticed me posting some of my grievances elsewhere... Anyways, about two months ago the left rear wheel started making a disturbing scraping sound but I had no money, already knew the rotor was warped, and thusly drove on it for a month. I eventually dug up a box of pads I thought were for the rear, took apart the wheel. Caliper was a real bitch to get off, wouldn't open at all, thought I was going to wreck the bolts getting them off, but I managed to do it and got the pads out.  Yeah, probably not the soundest plan to drive like this for a month. Inside pad worn to less than nothing and the outside pad'd been barely touched. I wonder why! Oh, and what's this, my box of pads is for the front, not the rear, and it's after 6pm and I have work in an hour! Needless to say, I had to batphone my parents to pick me up and take me to work a nightshift, yay.  Why is that one of the slider bolts siezed (given the wear, probably well over a year ago) and needed some persuasive removal. Rotor was just as hosed as the inside pad, coincidentally on the inside face. I think I know the major cause of my brake pulsing (that got significantly worse over the month I had no money to fix the brakes and drove anyways). Rebuilt the caliper, new pads, new rotor. Rotor was a bitch to get off the hub. Did the other side, caliper was absolutely fine, as was rotor replacement, though the new one that side is starting to show some blueing, so maybe I should've regreased the slider bolts on that side and I guess I get to take it all apart all over again soon! Anyways, things have been swell in the interim, got a promotion at work.  Not only do I now have fulltime employment, they let me drive a Toyota inside the building. I will try to do Staplerfahrer Klaus proud! Around the time I started my training, my steering started getting heavy after sitting for awhile. I chalked it up to the super light steering on the forklift and ignored it until my dad noticed a pool of what he originally suspected was brake fluid on his driveway where I'd parked my car. When I got home I saw this.  Right where the front wheels are, and I'm thinking to myself, "Well gently caress me, now I have to do the front brakes." Except, there was this too.  I drat near poo poo myself, threw open the hood, pulled the cap for the master cylinder, and saw it was full of happy, if a little brown, dot III. I unclenched, because that much fluid on the ground would've meant no brakes on my car at all and that was most definitely not the case. Next, because the pump was making noise, I checked the power steering fluid and the reservoir was empty, topped it up Dexron III, drove for a bit, steering got better, and then I popped the hood again to see if there were any leaks along the lines. Somewhere in the bowels I saw two hardlines connected to hoses, and one looked wet, but I couldn't follow their paths. Yeah, uh, gonna need to drop a huge load on the driveway first.  Fuckin' airbox, man, the intake on my 22R is a steel can, and on the 3B it's a pipe and a filter. This 4-banger has like a fuckin' pitcher plant growing off the side of it.  Ah, that's better, lower line is leaking. Okay, where does it go? Wait, the power steering res is still full, and there is a shitload of fluid all over the subframe. Where the hell does this line lead?  Oh, goddamnit. It's for the transmission fluid cooler. poo poo pants, literally, check dipstick, check dipstick again, and again, and again, it's still within the marks, and redder than I thought it'd be. So let's get a look at this then.  Pleasedontdrainpleasedontdrainpleasedontdrain.  I only have like 800mL of ATF left on hand. Hose was completely fine, but I cut about 3/4" off the end since the id was coated in corrosion. Did the best blind fingertip inspection I could of the barb, took a wire brush to the corrosion, shoved the hose on, perhaps a bit further past the second bump. Given the state of the fluid and the unknown quantity lost, I'll be going to Mister Transmission on Tuesday after Thanksgiving and getting the fluid changed, woohoo. I hate this car. I hope that fixes it. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 8, 2016 19:44
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Welp, that didn't fix it. I guess the hardline has a hole I couldn't find. I bet it's a real bitch to get out too, ugh.
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Oct 9, 2016 02:07
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Took the Mazda to a transmission shop this morning. On the drive there it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and slipped badly on the other gears, luckily they're only 1km away and I was able to limp there. Got the fluid changed and according to the shop about half of the old is currently staining my driveway. There was more than one leak but they were nice and only charged me half an hour labour to make my car stop pissing ATF despite it taking more like two hours to do everything. The hardline in question was trashed so they bypassed it with a brass hose coupler as Mazda made the hoses long enough to connect but used the hardline to route them a little more cleanly. There goes another $230 in truck money, could've been worse I suppose, most of that was just the fluid change.
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Oct 11, 2016 17:46
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This is that part of the project where the impractical old project car starts cursing the rest of your modern cars in a bid to become the daily driver.
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Oct 12, 2016 01:12
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Yeah, well, the truck knows it's supposed to have become the dd by now and my car decided last year to make it as painful a process as possible without clapping out entirely. I bit the bullet and ordered a new coolant temp sensor. Should arrive tomorrow. Random question, anyone know why big box stores sell the same bluetooth enabled ODBII connectors you can find for $10, for $140? I ended up buying one on dealextreme for like $8.50 with free shipping because I just couldn't justify buying anything else as neither of my other vehicles can use it (one's carbed and the cruiser is 40 years old). I know it's gonna be some really cheap knockoff device with a few dummy pins pretending to be more fully featured, but as long as it works with Torque and can clear codes I give no fucks. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 13:57
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So, did the temperature coolant sensor today. The old:  The new:  I know it's kinda fuzzy, but take note in the slight difference in the way the sensor is crimped to the brass. Old one came out easy, hot coolant started pissing out so I quickly threaded in the new one by hand, tossed on the 19mm deep socket and proceeded to find out the connector just barely fits inside the socket. So barely in fact, that if the socket isn't seated perfectly on the hex part of the brass it does this:   So, naturally I can't get another for two business days from any local parts place, so I did the next best thing. Pulled the brass part back out, replugged the hole with the old one, and used a vice to press the sensor back into its brass housing. Old sensor is roll-crimped, new sensor is crimped with 4 divots in the brass. So, once that's done I throw it back in, by hand, and once again proceed to disassemble the new sensor. Third time was the charm though, put the sensor back together again and this time i seated it in the socket and used that to thread it back on. Stayed together. Since I was already messing around with it and had that bottle of ATF I pulled one of the power steering lines and pumped out a bunch of this foulness:  I don't think that's what Dexron III ATF is supposed to look like, considering fresh fluid is a nice happy transparent red. Flushed through a few hundred mL of fresh fluid, put the hose back on, and refilled the system. Steering is a lot smoother but the pump is still whining, oh well, I tried. It wasn't the best flushjob ever, but probably better than nothing. Also, thanks Mazda, it would've been handy for you to write anywhere in the manual, or on the car itself, what coolant it takes rather than me having to guess that it's DexCool based upon information gleaned off of the various mazda forums and the fact my coolant isn't green. Felt better when I dug up the invoice for the rebuild and saw that's what the rebuilder put in. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 13, 2016 |
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Oct 13, 2016 22:44
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Seems like you got the token lemon Mazda?
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Oct 15, 2016 09:48
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 TRUCK UPDATE I'm working nights right now, woke up for my noon-time piss and randomly decided to check my email and saw this got sent to me right before I woke up: quote:I finished off the parts this morning... trimmed and detailed. The kicker is my parents are in Bayfield for the day, which is a little village about 20 minutes away from where the parts are and said they can pick them up on their way home, thus saving a 4 hour round-trip drive. I might finally have the parts I need to finish the cab of my truck, today! Too excited to go back to sleep. E: Pickup arranged! 
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Oct 15, 2016 |
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Oct 15, 2016 18:06
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Don't really have anything to update about the truck, my week off is next week so now that I have the parts I'll be able to resume work. This post is also not an update about my lovely car. This post is about this little piggy:  Being as winter is coming and I haven't changed the oil or plug on it since I got it (it's floated around the family for about 8 years and I've had it for going on 3 now), I decided this year I wasn't going to forget and thusly took a trip to Crappy Tire and bought some goodies.  Yeah yeah, I know, e3 plug, but they were out of Champion RC12YC's in singles and this was $4 cheaper than buying a package of one plug to use and one plug to lose.  Oh my, I probably should've done this sooner. Literally blacker than the power steering fluid that came out of my car. So let's find the spark plug then, odd that I can't find the wire or anything. Let's take off this random cover near the valve cover.  Oh hi there! I see Briggs and Stratton have once again done their utmost to make changing plugs as hard as loving possible while reccomending you at least inspect it annually. Nothing a wobble joint and a 12" extension can't take care of though!  Probably the original plug from factory. Gap tool said the gap was between .35 and .4, so it's just outside the spec of .25-.35. Looks good, probably could've just cleaned, regapped, and slapped it back in but I'll keep it around as a spare for when the e3 shits the bed. Anywho, dumped in new oil, screwed in new plug (after mucking about with the gap and electrode that wasn't even loving centred, way to go e3!). Recoil starter cord is broken so I bumped the electric starter and she fired up instantly and ran like a happy little briggs. Mission Accomplished. Wow, Tinal, what a boring post about yearly small engine maintenance bullshit, why did you even bother? Well, because, last year I stumbled across an issue involving what is likely the shittiest halogen bulb ever mass produced:  I'd get anywhere from a couple days/weeks of life out of a $7 a pop bulb that would just vibrate to death. I figured there had to be a better way and found some greybeard snowblower forum where a guy posted how to convert to powering LED floodlights. Naturally I thought this was awesome and bought parts, wiring bits, full-wave rectifier (so there's no LED stutter), etc etc. Then I promptly forgot about buying the LED flood because I couldn't afford even the $8 ones on ebay at the time and yeah... Most of the people on that forum use 2 9W floodlight units, typically 3 led ones that are sold in pairs on ebay on the cheap and run 9-32v negating the need for any regulation or a load resistor when setting up an on/off switch. 9W specifically because most snowblower alts put out 14-20V @ around 1A, which means 18W is about the most you can drive, still the leds are likely going to be underpowered, though to a much lesser degree than the halogen fog lamp. I opted for something different.  It's mounted forward of the hole the original light went into, mostly because there was nothing to mount it to behind the hole and now the hole just serves as a space for the new light to rotate or tilt. I marked the bolt hole dead centre in front of said hole but somehow it moved 1/4" to the left (right in image). Oh well, good enough. Now, the alternator on my snowblower outputs 20V AC (must be that e3 plug, it said on the package I'll get more power and this alt is documented at 18v by the greybeards) but it came with a diode on the hot side to do half-wave rectification and convert it to very dirty DC to run the halogen lamp. I could've just wired straight into this and the new light would've worked, but it would've suffered from LED stutter, which is just about the most annoying loving thing in this world and I want to firebomb every car with LEDs that flicker. The way to deal with that is to get rid of the diode and use a 4-diode bridge rectifier, which does what is known as full-wave rectification, thus removing the gap in the dc waveform from every time the AC voltage goes negative, which would be blocked by the single-diode and cut the wave in half, hence half-wave. Luckily, these things are cheap and one that's massively overrated for the job can be seen to the right in the following image.  The two unconnected terminals are for a single phase of AC and because of the way the diode bridge is designed either terminal can be hot or ground. The terminals also just so happen to fit perfectly inside of female blade connectors. As you can see, I've opted to use weather-resistant connectors filled with di-electric grease though this circuit is inside of a (soon to be) sealed box. Still, we can go further, as the output from the rectifier will be "dirty" effectively fluctuating from 0-20v DC because single phase, three phase suffers from this a lot less which is why your car alternator doesn't have filter caps. This won't cause a noticable flicker but it can reduce the life of leds. We solve that problem with some capacitors across the positive and negative terminals of the rectifier to essentially give us nice pure clean constant 20V DC (at max RPM, 10v at idle, still enough to run the light).  The two caps sitting amongst the oddly-shaped squash and my truck's rearview mirror act as the filter. They're what's on the other side of that project board with the globby soldering and wires attached to the rectifier. We now have an unregulated AC to DC converter that actually works across a very wide range and is likely an order of magnitude overbuilt for the application, but, total cost $5, half of which was shipping. You'd think it wouldn't take that long to put together and build the wiring harness for literally what has to be one of the simplest headlight setups imaginable, but alas, Winter Is Coming and it gets dark out at 5:30pm now. Still, here's the wiring.  White/black is ground/negative and red/black(with red) is hot/positive. The box under the main blower controls is just a weather-proof junction box that I mounted a rubber-capped toggle to and jammed the converter circuit loose into it (I'll be coating the bare solder with silicone when I close it all up). I know some of you guys hate crimps and butt connectors in general but every blade connector you see is filled with di-electric grease, and I heat-shrunk everything. All that's left is to wrap up the harness, zip tie it to the frame, and adjust the aim on the light. E: Also there are two 2A ATO fuse holders in the mix, one coming directly off the alt (which I might fuse to 5A, 2A is just what I had to throw in the holder), and one between the converter and the new headlamp. Which works btw, and so bright that my phone couldn't take a proper picture, the dark areas were actually well-lit and I gave up after 5 attempts at loving with the camera settings.  By my estimate it's about 1000x times brighter. Total cost of conversion: Probably under $100. Sure, I guess it'll take forever to cost less than $7/ea bulbs, but the headlamp actually puts out a useful amount of light now. tl;dr: I modded my snowblower. 
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 02:24
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Fermented Tinal posted:Don't really have anything to update about the truck, my week off is next week so now that I have the parts I'll be able to resume work. I have that exact (or gently caress near exact) snowblower. I've just been running it without a light. Time to fix that. Northeastern Ontario thanks you!
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Nov 7, 2016 13:01
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Good snowblower mod. When are you slamming it?
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Nov 7, 2016 15:33
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Siochain posted:I have that exact (or gently caress near exact) snowblower. http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/6602-upgrading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html I followed the OP in this thread, used the exact same components but I opted for a single 18W light instead of 2 9W ones. Around page 27 you'll see people discussing using a switch (like I have) and claiming that you need a load resistor and triple pole single throw switches but you really don't, especially if you don't do what they did (wire switch on DC+ after the rectifier) and do what I did (wire switch on AC hot between alternator fuse and rectifier). Alternatively, if you just follow the directions from the first post, the light will always come on with the blower, like the halogen. Other potential alternatives once you have the rectifier setup is you can power more than just lights. For instance, use a triple pole dual throw switch to have lights, off, or hand warmers. Or mix and match, a 9W led flood is probably more than enough to replace the underdriven H10, which leaves you enough to warm up them handlebars. Seat Safety Switch posted:Good snowblower mod. When are you slamming it? Already done, it scrapes metal on asphault. E: Just ran some numbers and found out that under worst conditions I'm getting 2.5x as much light, under best 5.625x. I'd say that's a great result. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 01:49
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TOO LEEET 2 minutes later, the return of the deaded P0126. Hey, so, coolant temp sensor in car was not problem on the Mazdabeast. It was one of three likely culprits and due to being the easiest to address, I had hoped so. Instead, my car takes forever to warm up (like 3x longer than normal). The needle dares to move down from the dead middle it is normally locked to upon reaching temp when going faster than 60km/h in 8C weather. Torque shows coolant temp rises steadily until around 60C then it crawls up from there. The fan does not come on. Has not needed more coolant since burping post sensor-replacement. When doing 80km/h, coolant temp never breaks 71C. I think the thermostat is stuck open. Replacement requires removing a wheel and inner-fender cover. Also it comes complete with a big housing and seal. Thermostat for Mazda 6 at local Napa: $90 Thermostat for Ford Focus/Fusion/fords with apparently the same engine (iirc) as my car, at local Napa: $60 Apparent difference is Mazda thermostat is 180F and Ford is 185F. Rockauto tells me $20 but 185F. Y/N? I'm not worried about overheating and severe low temps are a couple weeks off yet so I think I can wait for delivery without risking the car. More snowblower poo poo: I did a horrible thing.  Engine must be this disassembled to replace broken recoil starter cord.  Because of these rivets! Goddamnit Sears.  A little rusty, I threw some brake grease on it because that's what was handy. Retensioned fine once I figured out that 6 turns were needed despite rope only wrapping around 3 times. It'll probably fray and break at an inconvenient time again, but we have the solution to that problem.  A 120V electric starter! With a broken ground plug and annoyingly hard to plug into socket.  Gently, gently, don't want the... *pop pop pop pop* brushes to come off the commutator because there are four and it was hard to compress them all to get them back on.  Not so gently. Glued with some kind of congealed horse semen or something. Mallet used instantaneous sheer loading to convince it to open peacefully.   At $1, this was $5 cheaper than the closest replacement for the broken plug I could find since the ground plug is moulded in place on the original and not replaceable. 12 gauge, baby. Surprsingly, it all fit. Had to drill out the one grommit and I cut the top of the old plug off to help hold the cord in place. Packed the poo poo out of it with silicone caulking.  The tube of silicone helpfully decided to waterproof portions of my leather jacket.  Old and busted.  New hotness. Used ultrablack to glue/seal it back together.  Exposed connectors were subsequently wrapped in electrical tape. And with that, I should be done with this year's small engine fuckery. Except now she won't idle down and runs at a bajillion rpm unless it choke it off or manually move the throttle closed. Appears that I may have disconnected part of the linkage which is located under the fuel tank. Next time on Pimp My Snowblower we fix this problem and more!  Stay tuned! Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Nov 14, 2016 |
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Nov 14, 2016 14:47
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Some versions of that housing differ depending on if it has sensors in it or not. (Assuming this is a 3.0 from description and price of the thermostat).
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Nov 15, 2016 06:06
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Nope, 2.3L. Every picture I can find looks right except for random differences in housing material/gussets. Thermostat is $$$ because
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Nov 15, 2016 07:07
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Hi baby, I'm sorry. I'm here now. Working on a nose job today.   Now to make this  Look like this 
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Nov 15, 2016 20:03
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I have to say awesome truck, keep up the good work. My grand father owned an FJ60 (desert tan) which my Dad now has and is in the process of rusting away.... (I'd like to restore it for him, we'll see what happens.) I really want to get one of those BJ40s or BJ70s that are the pick-up model with the long bed. Even a medium bed would be okay. Maybe in another 20 years I came import one of those newer double cab models 70s.... I just love those classic styled land cruisers.
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Nov 16, 2016 21:03
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Keep up the good work? I've been pissin' and moaning about my car and ignoring the poor truck for the past while. More like getting going again! Murray is always the happiest dog at all times while Weaver is more interested in the lawnmower she hears in the distance.  When last I left the truck, she looked like this. New front bib mounted to the hinge. Gonna have to clean the hinge up and make a proper 1/4" thick rubber bushing to go between it and the frame so right now it's just bolted on to help with aligning the rest.  I put the fender back on to test the fitment. Still a little wonky, but much less so and I do think it'll work out better than using the old and wanged bib. Anywho, that came off again and I removed both fenders from the hood supports. If you recall, I had these mounted up at one point but my fitment problems mean all those holes I drilled will probably have to get packed with resin and glass and redrilled. At least it's fuckin' fiberglass and I don't have to do any welding. I'm going to enjoy it once this is finally loving done and I don't have to lift the fenders on and off every 10 minutes, they're like 50lbs each. So, from what I recall fitment of the tub begins from the front of the vehicle. First the bib is mounted and centred, which I've done. Next the hood supports are mounted to this.  Captive nuts and no easy way to mark the holes I need to drill in the fiberglass. I thought about going with how Toyota did it 40 years ago:  Of course this was followed by fear of the tab of fiberglass not being up to the task and I quickly moved back to holes rather than slots. Sure it's not purist, but what on this truck is anymore? I figured it out in the end if I used a bright light to illuminate the holes in the captive nuts the light would make it through the fiberglass (gelcoat's been sanded off in these spots for proper fitting). I also made more judicious use of vicegrips and used the new tub to help hold the supports while locating the holes.  This let me mark on the inside of the bib, drill pilots, and almost perfectly locate the holes. Toyota's slots afforded a fair bit of play in the fitment, which I assume means that I've probably spent more thought on the matter than anyone in Japan ever did combined, so I didn't feel bad about drilling the holes a fair bit larger (yet smaller than the slots) than absolutely necessary. Once again, from the darkness comes a form, gleaming in white and camo...  And for shits and giggles and fitment purposes, the fenders had to go back on. It's starting to feel a little sisyphean. Once again we've reached a critical part of both fitting the body together and finalizing the mounting locations for the tub. WOOO!!!!  Just have to make this all line up and tight and perfect on both sides while making sure the front of the fenders do the same with the bib and hood supports! Yes, that is one of the new running boards you see there. Here's both of them, next to the old ones.  Just what the doctor ordered, more fiberglass and less steel. This is almost starting to feel wrong, especially considering that I'm saving pennies for a replacement bed too.
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Nov 17, 2016 04:08
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Something tells me that the panel gaps are going to better when you're finished than they ever dreamed in Japan. Looks great, man.
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Nov 17, 2016 04:29
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So this is a little upsetting because they weren't available 4-5 years ago and steel panels were either discontinued by most 3rd parties, of questionable fitment, or done in small runs that I'd find out about after the fact. These guys weren't unknown to me but back in 2012-2015 these were mostly rumor and pipedreams. http://www.pacolonline.com/45-pick-up.html http://www.pacolonline.com/fj40-43-45-47.html It's literally every panel I would've needed to repair my original tub at a fraction of the cost of the fiberglass, except the bed which runs the same amount. I'm doing the right thing, I'm doing the right thing... 
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Nov 23, 2016 12:20
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70 series panels?! Awesome
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Nov 24, 2016 00:41
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So as someone who has recently bought one of these, could you offer any opinions? I am really really tempted to buy the following truck: https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5901447762.html Pros: Looks to be in good shape Cons: -12 or 13k USD seems a bit high. Then again it is a rare truck. -Price does not include the metal roof, despite what the ad says. -Pretty close to stock. (Although I think power steering, conversion to 5spd would be nice pluses...) My family is trying to tell me not to buy the truck but.... it looks sooo goood. Senor P. fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Dec 30, 2016 |
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Dec 30, 2016 00:38
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Well, if it helps. I know I said I wouldn't say back when I started this thread, but I paid $11,500 (CAD) for mine, in the condition it was in at the start of this thread.  Basically, I paid around 2x what I should have. I intend on keeping it forever though, way too invested to do otherwise.The one you're looking at is in way better shape, at least body-wise and probably a lot closer price-wise to reasonable vs mine. If you can talk the guy down to 10-11K USD, it'll be a little overprinced but I wouldn't sweat it. I have the steel roof off mine, still good, but not getting re-used since I hve a fiberglass roof. Your's if you want it, has a busted cb antenna mount though, and will need some tlc to get back to 100%. Not sure how to get it across the country. Alternatively, a fiberglass roof will probably run you close to $1000 after shipping to BC, but it will be stronger than the original steel. Saginaw power steering upgrade is like, the first upgrade you should do unless you're gonna keep running stock-size tires, then it's not really important. The left front fender will need some trimming to fit the larger steering box, though I don't know exactly what parts you need as my truck came with it done. As for a 5spd, if it has a 2F and you want to keep running gasoline, I honestly don't know the options, but if a H55F can mate up, do it. E: Just re-read ad, saw it has an aluminium body. Price is good considering an aluminium body would run almost that much alone. EE: Buy it and we can start an AI chapter of TLCA. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Dec 30, 2016 |
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Dec 30, 2016 13:07
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Looks like the deal fell through. (He didn't want a cashier's check + deposit.) I guess I can put the money into fixing up my father's and grand father's FJ60. Someday I will have that 45 or 75 series pickup..... someday. Senor P. fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Dec 31, 2016 |
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Dec 31, 2016 00:13
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So, the Mazda 6 and I had a long talk on the drive home today, mostly about the recent engine codes pointing at a short in the can-bus and the fact the cooling system is reporting its hosed up even though its working. I think we're getting divorced. Would it be completely unreasonable of me to put it up online for $2500 with the hope I get about half that for it? Everyone here is a serious lowballer and I still have a new bumper cover and the summer wheels/tires, and all the recent work that's been done. I just want to recoup the amount I've spent on it in the past year, the car itself can go for free for all I care at this point. E: Basically want to fund this bad decision but I only have $400 atm: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/owen-sound/1993-ford-f150/1231856974?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
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Jan 17, 2017 22:18
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 My transmission is dry.  E: Anyone want a free car? Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 22:37
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So, as those in the chat thread know, I've given up on keeping the Mazda in repair, or really, keeping it at all. It now sits in my driveway, unplated, uninsured, and I'm fairly certain that means it's also now unfit for the road. I'm trying to sling it for about double the best offer a scrapper made me, but like is typical of this region, nobody wants to pay more than 1/3rd of ask, and they want the alloy rims and brand new summer tires too. Ahhhhh, gently caress, whatever, someone will buy it eventually. Anyways, unfortunately, work on the FJ has stopped again due to winter and my lazy rear end, so that meant "new" car time. Fortunately, I was starting to save up money for more stainless hardware and other necessary bits. Unfortunately, some of that money is gone now and I owe I owe I owe. So, without further ado, I present my latest automotive disaster waiting to happen, in the form of the world's most boring car:   I'm kidding, as many of you know, given the fact I fawned over it, I bought this 2007 Nissan Versa. Same colour tho! She's got a 6spd, and a clutch that hasn't quite decided to inform me of the grab point yet. Gutless as hell, too. Anyways, the car is in considerably better condition than the Mazda was when I got it, the drop down to 133,000km is also nice. Cheap clutches, another plus. Cheap tires, cost half as much as my loving sedan. I view this as a blank light grey canvas with a dark grey interior. For now there are no plans other than to keep it nice and just DD it while I re-evaluate my plan of attack on the FJ. I'm not going to smoke in this car and I purchased a rear seat protector to keep it from getting dogged by my dogs. One thing I may address though is the post/garage wall scrape on the left rear wheel arch and left rear door. Doesn't look like it should break the bank at a body shop in the spring and it will nip and rust in the bud. On the other hand, this car is begging for the 1.8 VOP to churn out a few more ponies, any ideas?
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Feb 11, 2017 21:01
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I just realized, I'm 30 years old, own a house, and four vehicles. Only one of them is on the road. I think I'm becoming a car hoarder. In a week the Mazda becomes "derelict" according to bylaw. 
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Feb 11, 2017 21:04
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Fermented Tinal posted:I just realized, I'm 30 years old, own a house, and four vehicles. Only one of them is on the road. I think I'm becoming a car hoarder. In a week the Mazda becomes "derelict" according to bylaw. You're not a car hoarder until people start offering you free cars. And you're still fairly safe until people just start dropping those cars off in your yard because they figure you won't mind.
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Feb 11, 2017 21:08
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I seriously need to do some adjustment to the pedals and see if there's anything I can do about the clutch in this car. Just when I think I've gotten the grab point programmed into my foot I swear it moves. Right now about 60% of the pedal travel does nothing, 1% is clutch slipping, and 39% "you're gonna stall unless you rev to 2k." It's like I'm learning how to drive stick all over again, fuckin' stalled 5 times in a row with a bunch of traffic behind me, then polished the flywheel and made the clutch emit some fine smells, because I was stuck behind a crane doing 5km/h on the steepest part of a hill.  I never had problems with launches, even hill launches with the cruiser when it still drove, what the hell? I know I'm several years out of practice with anything other than tractors but holy gently caress. Also, I'm debating putting some tape over the tach for awhile because it's becoming a crutch that I know will only lead to heartache and bloody knuckles.Still, at least I'm not stalling it half the time starting in 1st now, so maybe there is yet hope for my left foot. I've also looked into seeing what's possible to do to a MR18DE to get a little more bang out of it and essentially everything I've come across is that people ditch it for a MR20DE, which is almost the exact same engine aside from a longer stroke and slightly different head design. On the other hand, I read somewhere about it being possible to get 300hp out of this engine, but that it's a lot of custom work. So, idk, I guess she's gonna stay as-is until I do some more research but I swear this car would be great if it just had a little more oomph. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 15:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You're not a car hoarder until people start offering you free cars. Fixed that for you. Sucks about the versa clutch but if it make you feel any better I stall my Ranger probably once a month and I have owned it for 5 years.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:26
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