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Let me know how that works, the roof rubber on my Civic has shrunk a slight amount and I was told nothing really works so I'm curious.
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Sep 20, 2015 03:25
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I use Shin Etsu grease for seals, works awesome.
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Sep 20, 2015 03:46
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kimbo305 posted:Yup, the "gentleman's stranded on the roadside" toolbox is strapped down with a leather belt: That's probably the classiest thing I have ever seen on a car.
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Sep 20, 2015 12:12
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spog posted:That's probably the classiest thing I have ever seen on a car. Even including White Snake music videos? 
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Sep 20, 2015 15:43
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kimbo305 posted:
Whoa, spare headlights and fuses, that's cool, yet oddly not reassuring...
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Sep 20, 2015 16:07
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The tool kit to my w126 and my e28 both have spare lightbulbs and fuses, they're some of the most common things to fail in a car
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Sep 20, 2015 16:10
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Actually, just thinking of my previous cars and the problems they've had, I really wish they had them as well...
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Sep 20, 2015 16:22
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leica posted:I use Shin Etsu grease for seals, works awesome. How greasy is it? The targa stows behind the seats in a way that might spread the grease everywhere if I overapply and tap the leather with the seals. I read in this awesome 90s car comparo that the 348 uses Connolly leather: https://www.flickr.com/photos/triggerscarstuff/6941468787/in/album-72157629482452909/ I had a tub of Connolly Hide Care lying around, so I applied it to the seats a couple days ago while the car was sitting waiting for registration and inspection. What caught me off guard was how much leather there is in the cabin. Not just the seats, but also the doors, the dash, the console, trim around the floors, the parcel shelf behind the seats... I stuck to doing just the seats because that's where the most wear is.
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Sep 20, 2015 18:33
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Ok, first DIY item -- I tried to write this up for FerrariChat, but it's pending moderator approval. Might as well c/p here. This is the small-time stuff I'm not afraid of doing on the car. My engine lid wouldn't keep itself up. The lid is supposed to lift on its own when you pull the release in the cabin. The existing FC threads on doing the replacement make a few leaps in what needs to be done. I tried to give it more detail: The Sachs SG404018 strut (application: Ford Focus) is much cheaper than the Ferrari-specific part, and has easier to use ball joint securing clips. If you're going to keep maintaining your car, you might as well switch to the SG404018, even if it pushes up a little strong. You can get it on RockAuto here: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=576779 I suspect RockAuto will be here even after the bombs drop and only roaches crawl the earth. Here's a comparison of the factory strut and the Sachs (right):  I thought I had done a better job of lining up the bottom ball joints, but as you can see, they're very close to the same length. Note that the piston body of the Sachs is wider. This factors in later. A shot of the 348 engine lid lifted up (with the replaced struts):  Anyone looking to DIY should be able to find the struts easily. Note that both struts have their bolts and nuts mounted facing left. Tip: assuming you're replacing shot struts, you don't need to worry about not scratching up the bodies of the old struts while unmounting them. Be careful not to bang into other stuff in the engine bay, of course, like the hoses and wiring looms all around the struts. This next series of pictures is what I really wish I had when I was doing this work -- a closeup of how the factory ball joint retaining wire works.  The wire goes across the face of the cup, holding the ball in place. I bet it'd be possible to pry the cup off the ball, but I didn't feel safe using that kind of force in situ. More pictures to show you how the wire wraps around the base of the cup:    In the last two pictures, you can see the end of the wire that you need to grab to undo the wire from the cup. The needle-nose pliers I was using did not have great grip, and space issues meant I couldn't use certain angles. You'll have to play around to find a way to grab onto the 'cobra head' end of the wire. Because you don't need to keep the wires or struts, you have some leeway to clamp hard around the C shape of the wire and pull away from the cup. Once you've got the C shape free, you can use your fingers to pull the wire along the axis of the strut away from the cup. This will free the imprisoned ball. Maybe this is old hat for some folks, but I'd never seen this kind of ball retention. Tip: don't forget to have something propping up your engine lid. A work light or being outside will let you actually see what you're doing. Recommended unmounting order is: - right top joint - right bottom joint - left top joint - left bottom joint I'm right-handed and found it easier to access the space around the cups when leaning on the right side of the car. I figure it's easier to get familiar with the procedure on the easier side first. When you undo the top ball joint, you can lean the strut against the intake manifold or hosing. It's not very heavy. When you undo the bottom joint, then you can just take it out. Tip: Leave the two ball joints bolted to the engine lid supports and firewall. You can install the new struts against the old ball joints. If you got this far, congrats, you're pretty much in the clear. Installing the new struts is a cinch. Apologies for not having an actual picture of the SG404018's cup. Here's a generic picture:  Each cup has a metal C-clip wrapped around the back of the cup opening. The ends of the clip are "teeth" that clench around the ball joint and secure it. The C-clip has gaps under it where you can pry up with a narrow flat blade screwdriver or similar implement. Be careful that you don't push the C-clip off the cup -- it holds itself in place by tension once you pry it far enough open. My cups appeared to be pre-greased. To put in a Sachs strut, you just need to have the C-clip pulled back as you place the cup over the ball. I did this two-handed -- one hand holds the strut and the other has the screwdriver prying the C-clip open. Maneuver the cup over the ball and press on gently. The C-clip should yield and let you slip the cup into place. Orientation -- this is what caught me off guard. Other threads have discussed whether to mount the strut with piston body up (factory orientation and probably prefered) or piston down. My Sachs struts have a wider piston body than stock. That body pushes against the engine lid support bracket that the strut installs on. If I mount mine piston up, I can't get the necessary angle to install the other end. So I have no choice but to install piston down, even if that's worse for wear and tear. I'm ok with that if they last a couple years. Recommended mounting order: - left bottom joint - left top joint - right bottom joint - right top joint Honestly, this part was a cinch. I did a quick check that the ball joints were bolted in firmly, but popping on the cups was easy once I knew I used the only possible strut orientation. The engine lid pops up pretty snappily with the new struts. They're about 10% higher force than the factory struts. Some people have suggested replacing just one side at a time to dial back the strength some to reduce whiplashing the engine lid supports and lid itself.
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Sep 20, 2015 18:34
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Yeah, those wire clips to secure the balljoints are more common on older stuff. You're right to try and remove the wire to release it rather than just using brute force, it's much easier that way.
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Sep 20, 2015 21:01
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kimbo305 posted:How greasy is it? The targa stows behind the seats in a way that might spread the grease everywhere if I overapply and tap the leather with the seals. It's not bad at all, if you use it sparingly the rubber absorbs it right up like a conditioner. It's great stuff, I find myself using it for all sorts of poo poo.
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Sep 20, 2015 22:28
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leica posted:It's not bad at all, if you use it sparingly the rubber absorbs it right up like a conditioner. It's great stuff, I find myself using it for all sorts of poo poo. Cool, will try it out. Not much today -- just drove it around. It's a really pleasant cruiser on smooth roads. On rough, the targa seal squealing is too distracting. I was sweating a parallel park I did until I got out -- the car is really really small. I'm still thrilled every time I see a reflection of the car or its silhouette cast on the road.  The weirdest thing was when I parked in an almost empty parking garage for dinner, and an X3 was parked behind me when I got back. The people were still in it. They didn't say hi or asking me anything about the car, but followed me for a few turns. I took a convoluted way to an exit, and the X3 was waiting with its blinkers just past the toll gate. Could have been a coincidence, but it was weird.
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Sep 21, 2015 05:02
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Give it time (yes I know it wasn't a 348 shut up)
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Sep 21, 2015 05:25
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If I had this car I would dress like this every single time I took it out.
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Sep 21, 2015 06:09
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Those clips are all over old SU carb linkages, like on my old Volvo. I always just used a mini screwdriver to pop them loose, by pushing on the little loop end. Way easier than trying to get a pliers on it. Gorgeous car, thanks for the thread.
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Sep 21, 2015 17:28
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LloydDobler posted:Those clips are all over old SU carb linkages, like on my old Volvo. I always just used a mini screwdriver to pop them loose, by pushing on the little loop end. Way easier than trying to get a pliers on it. Yeah, the first ball joint I worked on had the clip completely hidden under the cup. It probably would have been easier to feel out the clip with one hand and then pry under it with a small screwdriver. I'm debating whether to do the frunk struts, which are weak but still holding the frunk lid up. I'm sure I could be in and outta there in 10min.
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Sep 21, 2015 18:14
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Gorgeous. Now do a burnout, I wanna hear this thing!
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Sep 21, 2015 19:10
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I know that on the 308s and 328s the redline was more of a suggestion and people who really wrung them out could get more out of the top end before the valves started floating. Is the same true in this engine?
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Sep 21, 2015 19:33
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Ormy posted:Gorgeous. Now do a burnout, I wanna hear this thing! This motor is really quiet under 4k. It might be the acoustics of the engine bay, though, because it's easy to hear standing on the street behind it. On the long-term list is looking at aftermarket exhausts. It's extremely rev happy; I've never driven a car that feels like it needs to be cruised at 3k and higher -- not the S2000, not the FC turbo. I dunno what a practical RPM ceiling is; it hits 7800 pretty quickly and certainly seems like it still has juice left.
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Sep 21, 2015 20:21
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Love the thread so far. Please, PLEASE don't just turn around and get rid of it. Keep it through some adventures and a road trip or three at least so we can hear how it goes. Also how has this not been posted yet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roU2ltbDKfg PS: I love that your purchasing matrix had a category for 'Magic'. PSS: For Adventure just see what Harry's Garage did with his: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRjGN--R4pE Tindjin fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 21, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 21:00
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Tindjin posted:Also how has this not been posted yet? Maybe because it's not a Testarossa 
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Sep 21, 2015 22:35
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EVERYWHERE 
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That thing is sweet. A family member had one back in the day. That was the first exotic I drove. I'd never driven a car before that you could whip the wheel back and forth and feel so attached to the road - the on-rails feeling is a trip. The engine sounds sublime too.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:00
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14 INCH DICK posted:Requesting thread tag change to HOT My only regret is that I can't embed this in the background as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfgf9HatIHI
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Sep 22, 2015 01:02
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I need to make a playlist for driving songs for this car. That song will be on it, as will Night Drive and In The Air Tonight. Does anyone have experience with specialty insurance? After updating my policy, mine took a few days to decide to use declared value, and when I give the sale price, it's coming out to 2800/6 months, which is uhhh, pretty steep. Cheaper than the Viper, though. Hagerty doesn't cover stuff this new. I'm gonna call Grundy and Amica tomorrow.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:10
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I thought Hagerty did special interest vehicles now too? Have you talked to them about it? Might have to change your thread title, "To run one, you need to afford 3." I would love to put modern efi on something like this to fully uncork the intake and exhaust. I bet the noise would be magical.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:53
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I should call them. They have 1990 as their default newest year, so I put everything in as a 1990 instead of 1991, and the site came back with "you don't satisfy the criteria." Not sure which factor was holding me back.
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Sep 22, 2015 12:51
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kimbo305 posted:I need to make a playlist for driving songs for this car. That song will be on it, as will Night Drive and In The Air Tonight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKD-MVfC9Ag
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Sep 22, 2015 14:50
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kimbo305 posted:I need to make a playlist for driving songs for this car. That song will be on it, as will Night Drive and In The Air Tonight. This is a double CD, buy it you won't regret it, best driving music ever. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0NcdQgMFXQ
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Sep 22, 2015 16:22
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I've used these guys with no complaints though I'm currently waiting waiting on a prorated refund I just asked for. http://americancollectors.com/
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Sep 22, 2015 16:25
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kimbo305 posted:I should call them. They have 1990 as their default newest year, so I put everything in as a 1990 instead of 1991, and the site came back with "you don't satisfy the criteria." kimbo305 posted:Following up a few more qs so far: There's a good chance it's this, especially if it was a computer that decided against you. You might have better luck actually talking to someone there; this type of insurance is still better handled by people than machines. But it's always been my understanding with them that they won't insure any car unless you have at least one daily driver car as well.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:18
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Except that one super-long O))) song. IOwnCalculus posted:There's a good chance it's this, especially if it was a computer that decided against you. You might have better luck actually talking to someone there; this type of insurance is still better handled by people than machines. But it's always been my understanding with them that they won't insure any car unless you have at least one daily driver car as well. Seems fair. I do 90% of my travel by bike, in town, but I still use the car for random tasks sometimes. Just today, I drove my boss and me to the data center. e: was puffing white for the first several minutes of the drive this morning. I know it's a bit down on oil right now, but haven't checked the radiator/overflow situation yet. It only blew white for a little bit when the delivery driver took it off the truck. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 19:44
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kimbo305 posted:Does anyone have experience with specialty insurance? After updating my policy, mine took a few days to decide to use declared value, and when I give the sale price, it's coming out to 2800/6 months, which is uhhh, pretty steep. Cheaper than the Viper, though.  Holy poo poo dude, I've been pulled over half a dozen times in the last couple of years and I don't pay that much per year. Are you getting hit with a zip code tax? Maybe try insuring it at the 'rents in the suburbs?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:42
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Das Volk posted:
Not sure what the model is. The Z06, for comparsion, was like $1000/6mon. Hagerty said the same thing on the phone; no budge on the daily driver requirement. Still need to call Amica and Grundy.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:30
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Every car should be played "I'm In Love With My Car" by Queen. It makes them feel appreciated.
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Sep 23, 2015 04:48
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Kinda feel that car would be more like a "Carfuckers, Inc" if I owned it
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Sep 23, 2015 05:03
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Would it make economical sense to buy and insure a cheap beater just to conform to the "must have a DD on the side" requirement? Or is there a mileage limit as well?
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Sep 23, 2015 12:19
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It's probably finding somewhere to park another car in Boston that's the issue
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Sep 23, 2015 13:42
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Das Volk posted:
kimbo305 posted:Not sure what the model is. The Z06, for comparsion, was like $1000/6mon. I can insure one fully comp - provided I fit a tracker and garage it at night - for $350 per year. Edit: Jesus Christ, keeping it out on the driveway - in my somewhat chavvy area - would make it $25 cheaper. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 18:34
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Das Volk posted:
Boston insurance is pretty high in general, I have no record at all and I pay ~800/year for an 01 Miata. If I lived near downtown crossing it would be even higher. People love to hit each other.
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Sep 23, 2015 19:21
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I got a really nice 2 car discount with my current insurance -- basically the 2nd car would be $100/6mon (I dunno why I keep using the pay period instead of per year). That said, I wouldn't get the discount if I split between normal insurance and Hagerty. Let's say a beater would cost 3000 a year for amortized cost, insurance, maintenance, gas, etc. I need to get $3000/year or better with Hagerty to make it worth it. I think that's possible. Though I only have the 1 indoor parking spot, and street parking is a huge drag, even if I only have to move the car once or twice a month for street cleaning. Just called Amica, and I'm down to 1200/yr for the same coverage. So definitely switching.
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Sep 23, 2015 20:36
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