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Best oil for performance 2 strokes is Castor oil. Smells great as well. Can be more than 10% power than modern synthetics in the right motor, mostly old school stuff and anything on methanol. The varnish it leaves behind is also a solid lubricant! Drawbacks are probably premix setups only because its hard to mix, higher maintenance & ring sticking when maintenance is not done. But the odour & extra power is worth it right?
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Nov 19, 2015 00:53
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I'll give Royal Purple synchromax a try at Laguna Seca next week and see what the results are. They list it as being the right fluid for an 08+ Viper and it seems like other TR-6060 users have had good luck with it.
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Nov 19, 2015 05:58
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wildemere posted:Best oil for performance 2 strokes is Castor oil. Also the fact that it makes you poo poo yourself if you ingest too much of it?
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Nov 19, 2015 16:22
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kastein posted:Also the fact that it makes you poo poo yourself if you ingest too much of it? Hey it cleans your rings too.
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Nov 20, 2015 14:54
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So I ended up looking for an oil-cooler on some owners club forums. Ended up buying one but it had a whole longblock/turbokit/injectors/rail/various other bits attatched because the guy offered it to me for 600 quid. Thanks goons.
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Nov 20, 2015 19:17
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Turns out that Royal Purple Synchromax works really well in a TR-6060. The transmission was much more cooperative this time at Laguna, and is much more so in general when the car's hot.
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Nov 29, 2015 01:54
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Hey, a thread I can contribute to! I've worked for oil industry labs for almost a decade now from oil refining to lube oil blending and currently I work in used oil analysis lab. Here's an example for a multigrade diesel oil:  From left to right: base oil, additive package and viscosity index improver (fluids are not in absolute relative amounts), and after a thorough mixing you'll have the final product:  Of course before packing every blended oil must be analyzed so it fills the spec. For instance a API SL 5W40 engine oil would need +100 C viscosity, oil additive elemental analysis (to see that Ca, P, Zn etc are in correct amounts) and cold cranking simulator to see it passes the cold viscosity test. Some gear and hydraulic / industrial lubricants have more extensive tests. pazrs posted:Does anyone change their automotive oil based purely on the TBN? We do partial changes in our medium speeds (generators) on board. In my experience regarding industrial engines there have been some occasions where other values have been normal but TBN has dropped greatly (usually oil change is recommended when TBN is <60 % of the fresh oil value). More often oil change is recommended due to fuel dilution, water contamination or high level of wear metals.
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Nov 30, 2015 07:04
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How often would you recommend getting a TBN done? I have yet to have one done, though I've had a couple of samples done. First result was that the oil had wear material that they expected from oil with half of the miles, second was pretty much the same, but with a "?" for silicon. e: assuming I generally use the same oil+filter and generally go until the "change oil" message comes on. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 30, 2015 |
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Nov 30, 2015 07:24
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some texas redneck posted:How often would you recommend getting a TBN done? I have yet to have one done, though I've had a couple of samples done. First result was that the oil had wear material that they expected from oil with half of the miles, second was pretty much the same, but with a "?" for silicon. TBN (Total base number) is a measurement of the alkalinity of the oil, it's especially important on engines (like marine) running heavy fuel as there can be acidic by products formed.
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Nov 30, 2015 07:33
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How about something like my case? Typical compact car with a typical gasoline engine (Ecotec 2.2L), but it's used primarily for delivery, so there's a lot of short trips, and quite a bit of idling during hot/cold times of year when I'm between deliveries. My new jobs have me driving much farther distances, so the coolant and oil actually get up to full temp. I've put it off more because of cost, and because I'm told GM's oil life tracking is supposed to be drat good (I change it within a few days of the change oil message most of the time, and I've never fed it anything except synthetic). But I've noticed it's starting to use a little oil between oil changes.
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Nov 30, 2015 09:32
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As long as you're using engine oil that meets the engine's spec and change the oil when scheduled, you shouldn't need to worry about TBN. When you are extending oil change interval TBN should be monitored. There are two different ways to use engine oil analysis: either take the sample during oil change (to see if the engine is boned or if you need to change the oil more often) or few weeks ahead of scheduled oil change (to see if you can continue using the same oil further). On this trend analysis some heavy-duty diesel engines (like in buses) can reach ~35-50 000 miles between oil changes. Edit: sampling is the most important part of oil analysis. You'll get skewed results if you take the sample from drain plug after the engine has been off for a long time. Best way to sample engine oil would be to take the sample just after shutting down the and using a suction pump. Rosoboronexport fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Nov 30, 2015 |
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Nov 30, 2015 10:58
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How do car sensors determine the oil life? Is it just a resistivity measurement of the oil?
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Nov 30, 2015 15:44
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silence_kit posted:How do car sensors determine the oil life? Is it just a resistivity measurement of the oil? I always thought it was strictly time/mileage based.
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Nov 30, 2015 16:25
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It depends on the manufacturer, GM takes into account cold starts, weather condition, and some others that they don't say in addition to mileage. Supposedly very accurate, but I haven't verified.
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Nov 30, 2015 16:30
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The oil life calculations are dependent on using a certain oil. I was playing in the service menu on a Mercedes - and it lets you select all these different euro grades of oil we don't get in the US. Those different choices affect how long it takes for that light to come up.
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Nov 30, 2015 17:47
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rdb posted:It depends on the manufacturer, GM takes into account cold starts, weather condition, and some others that they don't say in addition to mileage. Supposedly very accurate, but I haven't verified. Oh so it's not a measurement. So if something were wrong with your engine, the oil life monitor wouldn't know. Interesting.
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Dec 1, 2015 06:00
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silence_kit posted:Oh so it's not a measurement. So if something were wrong with your engine, the oil life monitor wouldn't know. Interesting. Of course, it's all about ECU magic. Similarly as Miata's oil pressure dial in some (older?) models.
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Dec 1, 2015 10:04
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I love pouring Penrite HPR 30 (20w-60) into my XC Fairmont. I've tried going with HPR 15 (15w-60) full synthetic but the motor really doesn't like starting up with it, seems to lose it a bit faster too. I hope I can get away with 20w-60 in the EL's 4L as well, I have a few bottles stashed because of the XCs habit of pumping oil out through the rocker cover gasket. One thing I was told when I swapped my new motor in just over a year ago is to stay clear of Castrol GTX with a Ford 250 crossflow because it causes the valves to stick. I'm not interested in testing this problem which is a shame because that poo poo goes on sale every week.
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Dec 1, 2015 15:29
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silence_kit posted:Oh so it's not a measurement. So if something were wrong with your engine, the oil life monitor wouldn't know. Interesting. I'm curious now, are there any production cars out there that do actually take some kind of measurement to test for oil quality?
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Dec 1, 2015 16:16
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Rosoboronexport posted:There are two different ways to use engine oil analysis: either take the sample during oil change (to see if the engine is boned or if you need to change the oil more often) or few weeks ahead of scheduled oil change (to see if you can continue using the same oil further). On this trend analysis some heavy-duty diesel engines (like in buses) can reach ~35-50 000 miles between oil changes. Came here to post this. Sampling is useless unless you do it from the same point in the same conditions, usually they say must have run for an hour within the hour or similar. Also, it doesn't always give the best indication of the condition of the equipment. For instance, our generators are supposed to have the turbocharger lube oil filters changed every 1500 hours. We are changing them at 80-100 (!) because they are entirely clogged with soot and blow-by products. Our oil analysis shows the soot content at 0.2-0.5%. Because the sampling cock is after the filters.
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Dec 2, 2015 10:13
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pazrs posted:Came here to post this. Sampling is useless unless you do it from the same point in the same conditions, usually they say must have run for an hour within the hour or similar. Oh that's bad. Can you regen the filters somehow or are they disposable? I suppose you're using HFO, but it still shouldn't be that bad if the engine runs correctly. Blow-by might be the big issue if a lot of HFO gets mixed with the engine oil it can clog the filters easily (do you measure V/Ni/Na content of the oil?)
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Dec 2, 2015 11:07
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Rosoboronexport posted:Oh that's bad. Can you regen the filters somehow or are they disposable? I suppose you're using HFO, but it still shouldn't be that bad if the engine runs correctly. Blow-by might be the big issue if a lot of HFO gets mixed with the engine oil it can clog the filters easily (do you measure V/Ni/Na content of the oil?) This was largely my point, the oil testing says the machines are healthy but there is a stupidly large amount of blow-by. Surprisingly the Vanadium etc. isn't too bad. There is just a shitload of carbon particulate. Which due to the size is filtered pre sample and doesn't show up as soot! The main L/O Filters are wire notch and get ultrasonically cleaned and reused, the turbo ones are paper element and get binned.
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Dec 5, 2015 03:28
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Rosoboronexport posted:As long as you're using engine oil that meets the engine's spec and change the oil when scheduled, you shouldn't need to worry about TBN. When you are extending oil change interval TBN should be monitored. I generally change it while the engine is still warm (not so hot that I'm going to get burned, but it's usually been parked an hour or so), and take the sample about halfway through draining the oil. There's actually no real specification for oil changes in my owner's manual, except that it needs to be changed at least once a year even if it never tells you to change it. I've just always gone by the oil change reminder, which generally has me changing it every 6-8 months. IIRC the manual just states to use API certified 5W30 that's also marked with GM6094M (which has been superseded by dexos1, I believe). And since it's a modern-ish GM (2006): rdb posted:It depends on the manufacturer, GM takes into account cold starts, weather condition, and some others that they don't say in addition to mileage. Supposedly very accurate, but I haven't verified. My car isn't quite new enough to require dexos oil, but Mobil 1 meets dexos1 specifications, dexos1 has superseded GM6094M, and they kept using this engine family after they introduced the dexos requirement. So I figure Mobil 1 is good enough. On the supercharged version of my car, the manual strongly recommends using nothing but Mobil 1. It does idle a lot more than most cars, but it's idling after it's already been driven, and only to run the heat/ac while I wait for my next order. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 06:07
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CornHolio posted:I'm curious now, are there any production cars out there that do actually take some kind of measurement to test for oil quality? Doubtful. Most of it is just modeled I'd guess based on starts and drive cycles and such. I don't think most have any sort of sensor to pull that information in.
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Dec 7, 2015 21:08
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