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There's always the option of a 1972 pedal, but they aren't exactly a bolt on either. It's what I did on mine but I'm going to eventually redo the throttle cable and bracket at the TB with a Lokar setup. I like the fan mount you did. Does the LT1 shroud get thin enough to tuck into the clips at the bottom of the radiator? Or does it just sit on them like my LS1 shroud does?
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Dec 18, 2015 14:49
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No, the shroud basically looks the same on top as it does on the bottom. I did exactly the same thing with angle iron and rivets, but just tabs instead of a full bar.  It is *technically* possible to remove the fan without removing the radiator hoses, but is pretty tricky. I can swap the belt without removing the fan though, so I guess that's somewhat maintenance friendly. What's special about the 1972 pedal? I'm not in love with the pedal feel with the current setup, it's pretty sticky for the first 30% or so, but that may be more the literal pedal and not the weird cable adapter.
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Dec 18, 2015 18:00
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The '71-'72 trucks have a factory throttle cable instead of the rod linkage setup the '67-'70 trucks have. Looks like Lokar actually makes a pedal just for the '67-72 application as well, but it still requires enlarging the mounting holes and drilling a new firewall hole for the cable. I need to make some tabs like that for the bottom of my shroud, but I don't think I'd even bother drilling them to bolt to the truck - on mine I have these little slots that the factory shroud just slid into so you could remove the whole shroud without getting underneath.
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Dec 18, 2015 18:05
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Instead of buying a super expensive fuel filter, get an OEM early 90s Audi or mid 80s Volvo fuel filter. The factory ends are metric banjo fittings but you can get metric to AN adapters for them easily. I would definitely not run your current setup unless it has a brand new tank. It's really easy to clog a fuel injector.
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Dec 18, 2015 18:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:The '71-'72 trucks have a factory throttle cable instead of the rod linkage setup the '67-'70 trucks have. Looks like Lokar actually makes a pedal just for the '67-72 application as well, but it still requires enlarging the mounting holes and drilling a new firewall hole for the cable. Enlarging a hole and drilling one doesn't sound too bad, I'll look into it if the pedal isn't manageable once the truck drives. I would like to make tabs for the fan shroud so that I don't have to get underneath. That would be nice. mafoose posted:Instead of buying a super expensive fuel filter, get an OEM early 90s Audi or mid 80s Volvo fuel filter. The factory ends are metric banjo fittings but you can get metric to AN adapters for them easily. The tank is basically new, it's had probably 40 gallons of gas put through it, but that's still a good idea. Looking at rockauto under 1992 V8 I found this fuel filter which looks to be what you're describing?  Buying that and two adapters is certainly cheaper than the AN aftermarket filters.
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Dec 18, 2015 19:57
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So you'll remember that my bed was in absolutely awful shape. Short of welding in a whole new bed and arches, it was toast. Mostly the supports were okay, but it needed serious work. Every now and then I'd look on craigslist and just see what was there. Well, despite a bed being totally unnecessary to having a running truck, I happened upon a bed on craiglist for $100! You can believe I picked that up right away!  It's very handy having a flatbed to borrow from work in situations like this.  It's in incredible shape for it's age and being $100, the guy just needed it gone. It's basically rust free, and *mostly* pre-bedlinered  That orange isn't rust, it's paint or something  It did have some damage to this corner:  And it's a '71 CST bed, so it won't match perfectly, but I've honestly been thinking about putting non-67 fenders on (or cutting a perfect hole) and running marker lights up front too. It's impossible to merge on the freeway in this truck, because nobody can see your turn signal! Back to the matter at hand, I was wiring the truck:  I'd pulled the engine bay harness off a 1996 LT1 and just needed to splice it in to the ignition circuit basically. The 1996 has a crank position sensor wire I didn't have, and I had to splice a different coil connector, but otherwise it's the same. I also used a fuse box out of a 1995 so that I could use roughly the stock system just placed in a different engine bay.  As you can see it required some creative sheet-metal-and-rivet support to mount on the wheel arch.  I did the same for the ECU too, it misses the hood hinge by about half an inch! You can see that the heater core pipes broke off after removing the hoses. This is a fix for later. I have the parts, but it's a lot of work.  Midway through this project I'd come upon this article from Hot Rod and picked up two of the power distribution blocks. After hearing about how older rusty frames can be so-so as a ground, I decided to do a positive block and a negative block, both leading to the respective battery terminals. You can just barely see the positive one in the picture below. There are still a few huge chassis grounds, but all the engine grounds don't rely on the chassis. And here's the finished product:  I'm kicking myself for that vacuum line on the intake. I drilled that, I could have put it anywhere, but it was vertical on the Camaro so I did the same there. God it looks so bad. I'll change that eventually. I had to replace the wiring plug for the optispark, but it did actually start after that! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEGhb0-8pGA You can tell I haven't cleaned up the wiring in the video yet. To bring us up to date, since that video I have replaced the lifters, changed to hardened, slightly shorter pushrods (the initial ones were oem, and remember the rockers are 1.6 vs oem's 1.5) I also installed new valve springs and retainers that are designed to work with the crane roller rockers. The one's the engine came with were hitting the retainers. That being said, all of this made no difference and the engine still sounds the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVNNVQ8hBe0 It may just be adjusting valves, but I have no confidence in how to do that anymore, as I've tried so many different methods at this point and everything sounds the same. So trusted AI friends, what's wrong with my goddamned engine? Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Dec 22, 2015 |
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Dec 22, 2015 21:16
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Loose flywheel / clutch?
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Dec 22, 2015 21:21
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Well, it can't really idle less than 1200 or so, even though it's programmed for 750-800. The rattling really sounds like its in the top end. I took off the clutch inspection cover and everything looked fine and wouldn't move. Earlier on, before the lifters/pushrods/valve springs it would make a knocking noise under more than 25% throttle. I haven't driven it on the street since as it still sounds like poo poo at idle. The Injectors are Fuel Injector Connection 33#'s which it's tuned for (along with the cam obviously), but when I open the throttle plates, the wideband shows max lean before the fuel kicks in. Related to this, it'll bog when you open the throttle, and if you open it too much, it can die unless you back off the throttle.
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Dec 22, 2015 21:25
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It sounds scary. and not in a good way. You've some air leak or TPS issues it sounds too from the video. It shouldn't fall on its face like that. You're in the bay area right?
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Dec 22, 2015 21:26
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Yeah the truck is stored at my work in Berkeley near the freeway. The trial versions of the logging software have long expired, but the TPS was reporting accurately, just the fuel was late. It seems like hardware & software, although the guy I used to tune it couldn't figure it out. He did send me a tune for oem 24# injectors that are Delphi, whereas the aftermarkets are Bosch. The tune will run them fine until about 3500-4k rpm in theory. I just haven't tried it mostly because it's cold and I hate the idea of more work that fails.
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Dec 22, 2015 21:40
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Deceptor101 posted:Yeah the truck is stored at my work in Berkeley near the freeway. The trial versions of the logging software have long expired, but the TPS was reporting accurately, just the fuel was late. It seems like hardware & software, although the guy I used to tune it couldn't figure it out. He did send me a tune for oem 24# injectors that are Delphi, whereas the aftermarkets are Bosch. The tune will run them fine until about 3500-4k rpm in theory. I just haven't tried it mostly because it's cold and I hate the idea of more work that fails. as long as the injectors are the same flowrate@Xpsi. pattern differences can make it rougher/smoother. I live in Berkeley~ I don't have tuner access anymore, but I'm willing to lend a hand here and there.
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Dec 23, 2015 03:22
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Well, the tuner mentioned that he's sometimes seen weird bogging with bosch III injectors, and I know I have good oem injectors from the Camaro. That being said, clearly there's a mechanical noise going on as well. It may be that it's just adjusting valves and then swapping the injectors. Know anyone in the area that's *really* good at adjusting sbc hydraulic lifters with roller rockers? I actually drove it to the shop that did the lower end machine work and they said it sounded like pinging. Had the tuner send me a tune 15 degrees retarded just to test and it made no difference in the noise.
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Dec 23, 2015 17:25
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Do you know the specs of those lifters you have? I.e., plunger travel? I like to have the plunger right in the middle, so I take the plunger travel and divide it by 2, then use the thread pitch of the rocker stud (I think it's 20tpi on an LT1) to figure out how many fractional turns that preload is. Then slowly tighten the rocker stud while wiggling the rocker or turning the pushrod (however you like) until you get zero lash, then turn the amount you figured earlier. Since you have aftermarket lifters, you should probably also check pushrod length. The way I do this is by marking the valve tip with a sharpie, set the preload as above, turn the engine a few times (or run it, if it's a running engine) then take it back apart. The rocker tip should leave a witness mark on the valve tip by wiping the sharpie off. You want this clean strip to be as close to the center of the valve tip as possible. If it's not, get a pushrod length checker and repeat the procedure for various pushrod lengths, then order a set of whatever length you ended up liking. This might be necessary since the cup height of the aftermarket lifters might be in a different place than a factory GM lifter, and even the factory changed several times over the years (chart). I had to use different pushrods in my L31 (which I believe is pretty similar to the LT1) because I was using LS7 lifters and 1.6:1 rockers. I'm sure you know all this, but I thought I'd type it all out just in case it gives you any ideas for something you have overlooked.
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Dec 23, 2015 17:51
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Totally different engine and FI setup (mine was a Chrysler 440 with FAST fuel injection), but when I was having an issue with the FI system going haywire because of interference from the spark system causing data errors, my engine sounded pretty much just like yours. I thought it was dead inside. Turns out, no, on that FI setup, you had to be super careful about wire routing away from the spark controller - moving ONE wire about 3" cured it. So, I'd triple check all of your wiring before changing anything out. Maybe you'll get lucky.
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Dec 23, 2015 18:16
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Raluek posted:Do you know the specs of those lifters you have? I.e., plunger travel? I like to have the plunger right in the middle, so I take the plunger travel and divide it by 2, then use the thread pitch of the rocker stud (I think it's 20tpi on an LT1) to figure out how many fractional turns that preload is. Then slowly tighten the rocker stud while wiggling the rocker or turning the pushrod (however you like) until you get zero lash, then turn the amount you figured earlier. So, the lifters are clevite 213-1738 which according to rockauto is just a direct oem replacement. They look and seem identical, although I suppose it could have different plunger travel (but I don't know why). Using the new lifters, I did check the pushrod length that exact way, which is how I ended up with 7.0" pushrod when oem is 7.2" (and a pushrod length checker I likely won't need again until I've lost it) I appreciate any and all input, I've been banging my head against a wall and throwing money and parts at red herrings for over 6 months now. I'd really like my truck back. jhcain posted:Totally different engine and FI setup (mine was a Chrysler 440 with FAST fuel injection), but when I was having an issue with the FI system going haywire because of interference from the spark system causing data errors, my engine sounded pretty much just like yours. I thought it was dead inside. This concept TERRIFIES me. All the wiring is in stock locations other than the power distribution and fuse block. OEM the fuse block was the front right of the engine bay by the radiator, but the pcm was basically in exactly the same situation, and like I said, the wiring harness on the engine is all original location. The only aftermarket thing in the spark circuit is the coil which is higher voltage.
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Dec 23, 2015 19:31
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Deceptor101 posted:So, the lifters are clevite 213-1738 which according to rockauto is just a direct oem replacement. They look and seem identical, although I suppose it could have different plunger travel (but I don't know why). Those do look like the LS7 lifters, and might even be. It's quite possible that Delphi just makes the same lifter for everyone. If they're internally the same, they should be preloaded 2.09mm, which (assuming 20tpi) is 1.65 turns past zero lash, so if you're anywhere in that ballpark I'd say you're good. So unless a lifter jumped its dog bone or something, your problem probably lies elsewhere. Since you checked the pushrod length, you're probably fine there. Edit: Actually, looks like most LT1s have 3/8-24 rocker studs, not 7/16-20. So, 2 turns preload, ish. Raluek fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 23, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 19:57
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Raluek posted:Those do look like the LS7 lifters, and might even be. It's quite possible that Delphi just makes the same lifter for everyone. That actually sounds like more pre-load than I put. Most places I googled, and the haynes manual say 1/2 turn to 3/4-turn after zero lash. This gives me hope. Perhaps it is foolish hope, but it is hope nonetheless.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:21
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Deceptor101 posted:The only aftermarket thing in the spark circuit is the coil which is higher voltage. I know it's unsettling, but I'd start there, and with anything near it. Really, I'm looking for a video of my 440 running when it was acting up, and the similarity to the sound of your motor is uncanny. I tore down the whole top end looking for damage and mis-adujsted lifters / rockers, etc. Then I moved THAT ONE WIRE... Wasted many days, and actually lost some sleep over it, as I was up against a deadline to get that thing running. I can't say which I hope it is for you - an identifiable mechanical fault, or a mystery electronic demon. Good luck!
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Dec 23, 2015 22:43
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Okay time for an update finally. It's good news and bad news. First the good news. I did have the rockers too loose. I had a fundamental misunderstanding of how hydraulic lifters work and how they should be tightened. A friend of mine came out and helped me adjust them and most of the noise has gone away now. The throttle doesn't bog anymore either. It does need a tune that runs a bit richer though as it's running 14-16:1 AFR according to the wideband. Here's the bad news. My friend listened carefully after doing the valves and he says it's got piston slap. The engine had .03 over pistons when I got it, and the shop just re-honed it and put new rings in. It's likely that the cylinder was already over .03 as it seems it was originally built for a drag motor, which I guess are looser fit. It might be alright if these were forged pistons, but they're hypereutectic, so they don't expand much. His guess is the bore is around .035 over at this point. Is this imminently a disaster? No, but it isn't great. It means that the engine likely won't last over 10k miles. It does go away slightly as it heats up, but not nearly enough. His recommendation is to get a stock 350 bottom end and rebuild it so that it's ready for when this bottom end eventually goes. Here's the current to-do list: -Install better fuel filter designed for fuel injection. Most likely this one with some AN adapters http://amazon.com/Wix-33156-Complete--Line-Filter/dp/B000C9UJDC/ -Deal with the fuel vent lines. Both are currently un-capped, one is deliberately dragging on the ground so I don't forget about it. Any ideas that aren't plugging and aren't also always venting to atmosphere? -Get a richer tune that removes the knock sensor. The piston slap will constantly be setting it off so I may as well get rid of it. I'll see what the tuner says though. -Mount the wideband sensor so that it isn't dangling. Once I'm happy with the reading though, disconnect it (I understand these things clog quickly and go bad, so I might as well save it once the truck is good) -Get the front end aligned. It's still just sloppily placed together. Possibly get the nicer tie rod connectors if there are ones in my thread size. -Finish mounting the passenger sun visor. The hole needed for the main post is ridiculously big. -Put the additional gauges fuse circuit on the ignition relay. Currently it's just always on and drains the battery slightly. Drive it? Change engine oil after 100 miles, change trans fluid then too, fix leaky PTO cover at the same time. Drive it more! Oh and then put a new bed on it, and eventually a rear end longer than 4:56! E: looks like a fuel filter off a '95 suburban is maybe better. The Audi one recommended is 14mm/12mm in/out and the suburban is 16mm in/out. Plus figure it was for a 5.7 instead of a 4.2. Also it's listed as 4 microns which is really nice and small. Same price and same amount of adapters, seems better right? Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 01:15
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So I was a bit stupid, but hopeful (also another good name for this thread) with the fuel filter. Using the fuel filter I mentioned, I bought some AN adapters that match the thread pitch, but in no way seem to seal it. It's too large a gap with the threads bottomed for an o-ring inside or outside. This was the result of trying an O-ring inside and just priming the system: Mediocre would be generous. So I took another look at Summit and I see this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ff-10-kit/overview/ 10 microns, replaceable and comes with a bracket (something I'd have to make anyways) for $36. Does an EFI system really need 4 or 6 microns or will 10 be good enough? The bottom end may not be long for this world but I'd like to keep everything else in good shape. OR I can spend $100 on a Fuelab billet 10 micron or $140 on a 6 micron. I could maybe even piece together the tanks one, but I'd barely save money after it all. Once the the fuel filter, the vent lines and the alignment are taken care of, I'll see if I can manage a 1-wheel burnout video. Or maybe two wheels, some of these came with lockers, although I don't think the HO52 was? The previous engine didn't have enough power to really tell.
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Jan 22, 2016 17:56
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Deceptor101 posted:So I was a bit stupid, but hopeful (also another good name for this thread) with the fuel filter. Using the fuel filter I mentioned, I bought some AN adapters that match the thread pitch, but in no way seem to seal it. It's too large a gap with the threads bottomed for an o-ring inside or outside. This was the result of trying an O-ring inside and just priming the system: There are specific fittings to make that filter work - I used it on the Charger with the previous FI setup. I've got the fittings in my "random AN fittings" box. I can get you the part numbers, or make ya a smokin' deal on them!
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Jan 22, 2016 19:55
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Smokin deal sounds good, as long as they're -6AN male on the other end. Do you have a picture? I'm curious to see how it works.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:55
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Looks like I found it. Is it the AN to Metric Adapters? This looks like what I would imagine would seal the filter, and it looks like the OEM-type fuel lines.Looks like I can either get it in steel or aluminum: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-961955erl/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-991955erl/overview/ If I go with steel, then it's a steel hose end, to a steel adapter to a steel filter. That's probably better huh?
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Jan 27, 2016 17:36
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Deceptor101 posted:Looks like I found it. Is it the AN to Metric Adapters? This looks like what I would imagine would seal the filter, and it looks like the OEM-type fuel lines.Looks like I can either get it in steel or aluminum: That's it! I've got a wacky clamp I bought to mount the filter, as well. I forgot to grab some pictures at the shop yesterday evening. Soz. I'll take a gander when I go by this evening.
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Jan 27, 2016 18:39
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Excellent. I just went ahead and bought the steel fittings. Summit's ground is one-day shipping for me so I'll hopefully get it tomorrow. I'm not sure how I'll clamp the filter, as the area I'm putting it in is a bit messy. That being said, I will make it work! If you do get a shot of your clamp I'd appreciate it, but I think I can picture it. Any ideas on how to cap fuel vent lines?
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Jan 27, 2016 19:32
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So I got the fittings and installed them and wouldn't you know it? The correct fittings don't leak! What a shock: My wideband's wiring is in the same area, and the clutch spring, and the rear light wires, and some other wires I don't know about, and the speedo cable, so it's a bit messy, but it works. I'll get a proper clamp around it before I drive it a ton, but now I don't have to worry about clogged injectors. Here's a video of some exhaust noise. Could be worse! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOKYaU-qXYY Then the lower radiator hose started leaking, so I replaced the clamp. After I go buy more coolant I'll get it aligned and then bring it home  .
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Jan 30, 2016 22:58
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It's amazing how "get coolant, get it aligned and drive it home" can take 3 weeks, but that's how things go! I managed to get it home yesterday and immediately had trouble finding parking, so I actually drove it to work today to avoid street sweeping. Proof of it not being at work though: I also got an awesome sticker from my buddy who made these for a classic vehicle road trip:  Here's the thing, at idle it just sounds a bit loud and diesel-y. At more than 10% throttle in 3rd or 4th, it's making quite a bit of knocking noise (or like pinging but louder). In 2nd it's not as bad, but i figure the engine isn't working as hard to accelerate. My friend seemed convinced it was piston slap, but from what I've read, piston slap is supposed to be worst when it's cold right? When I drove it this morning (sitting overnight, ~55 degrees F) it seemed to be doing it less, and then did it more as it got warmed up. I'll make a video when I drive it home. I think I'm rebuilding the bottom-end shortly anyways, but I'd like to really know what the problem is. I've never had a engine this close to death before, so the difference between the noises of rod knock vs loose bearings vs piston slap vs pinging are a bit lost on me.
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Feb 22, 2016 21:56
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Here's a video with the noise on the freeway. Any ideas? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUWi7wFyb1M My knowledgeable friend is more convinced it's piston slap, it just doesn't do it when it's cold, which doesn't make sense for piston slap. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Feb 23, 2016 |
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Feb 23, 2016 07:23
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Sounds like preignition/detonation.
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Feb 23, 2016 17:47
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I agree, sounds like detonation to me.
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Feb 24, 2016 04:19
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Yep, 3rd on detonation. Have you tried running 97 octane in it?
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Feb 24, 2016 04:22
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leica posted:Yep, 3rd on detonation. Have you tried running 97 octane in it? He's in California, so "premium" is 91. That said, it's certainly worth a shot. I agree that it sounds more like detonation than a mechanical problem. If it was more regular/rhythmic I might think it sounds like a rod, but it's not. Also note that it seems to happen more with applied engine load. If it does it while lugging up a hill, that would be another nail in the coffin.
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Feb 24, 2016 05:54
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It definitely does it while lugging up a hill but moreso when it's warm. When it first starts up, it's much quieter. Would detonation be affected by that? The thing is timing on these is set by the computer entirely, and the tuner saw the video and said "it sounds like detonation, but you're at exactly the right timing levels for that cam so it doesn't make sense". It *does* have 11.9-12:1 static compression ratio, which is pushing the limits of 91, but the tuner said that would be fine (he mostly tunes LT1s). This being said, if it is just piston slap and everything else is fine, why won't it idle lower? Here's a couple more videos of the drive. This one is when I first left work, there's something like a backfire at around 1:28, otherwise it's not amazing, but maybe informative: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unFoYdu3wbw The second one is fully warm getting off the freeway, so it's doing the slap/detonation more even on flat surface: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKqlrhVxtmY&t=49s I'll edit these some more, currently they're being rotated since my phone decided they were in portrait mode. Would it be better if it was detonation? I wouldn't have to rebuild it in 5k miles, but I'd have to buy a ton of race gas (mayyybe octane booster?) and eventually that would cost more. Piston slap at least has a fixed cost and I can do the bottom end how I really want to, not the ridiculous 12:1 CR that I ended up with. Edit: thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. I'm just happy to get the truck home and I'm grinning like an idiot every time I see it's new sticker. No matter what I'm doing, it's an explanation for it:  It's a good thing it has as much power as it does, the 10-15% I can use without much slapping or pinging is actually enough to get most places. Other than up a hill when it's warm. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Feb 24, 2016 |
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Feb 24, 2016 08:37
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I couldn't really make heads or tails of the other videos, but that last one definitely sounds like detonation to me too. Detonation is absolutely affected by engine temp - you're not going to hear it on a cold engine unless the timing is way too advanced. The warmer the engine is, the more prone it will be to detonation. Is there a way the tuner could send you a new tune that pulls timing a bit? Or, supposedly MSD makes a replacement distributor that allows you to adjust timing on an LT1. There's also an option of colder plugs.
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Feb 24, 2016 09:11
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Deceptor101 posted:why won't it idle lower? Vacuum leak? That would cause a lean condition and pinging, as well as a high idle.
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Feb 24, 2016 09:24
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some texas redneck posted:I couldn't really make heads or tails of the other videos, but that last one definitely sounds like detonation to me too. Detonation is absolutely affected by engine temp - you're not going to hear it on a cold engine unless the timing is way too advanced. The warmer the engine is, the more prone it will be to detonation. Raluek posted:Vacuum leak? That would cause a lean condition and pinging, as well as a high idle. There's not too much in the vacuum system, and all the hoses are basically new with at least some form of a clamp on them. The wideband also isn't indicating lean. It is usually around 14:1 AFR, but again I'm only at 10-20% throttle where it'd be tuned more for efficiency, not the 12.5:1 you want for power. It would be nice to do a smoke test though to make sure.
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Feb 24, 2016 18:12
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Does that engine still have a functioning knock sensor?
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Feb 24, 2016 23:29
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Yes it does,and no surprise, according to the data-logger it is knocking like a motherfucker.
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Feb 25, 2016 01:34
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Something is way wrong there, look at your long term fuel trims - the computer is pulling as much fuel as it can.
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Feb 25, 2016 01:53
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Well apparently that's actually the computer reading it too rich, and leaning it out. That's why I'm still seeing ~14 on the wideband. I've got some known working 24# oem injectors from my camaro that I'm going to try over the weekend. He sent me a tune that will work with them until around 4000RPM. The injectors I have now are 33# new flow-matched from FuelInjectorConnection.com but they're Bosch III injectors, not Delphi ones, like the oem were. He said he's occasionally seen Bosch injectors act funny like that. Before then I'll pull a few plugs and check gapping and what they look like. The tuner said with my SCR and cam profile he'd recommend a .035 gap, I don't honestly remember what I set them to, but if it's .06 or something that would certainly cause some issues. I definitely have a fueling issue though too.
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Feb 25, 2016 02:34
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