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Floor is DONE. Access hatch to get to the airsprings Shifter/hose access hatch (note the spare tire winch I hate so goddamn much) 1/2" ply down and painted. Drainbox David built is working nicely PLAYIN' WITH MY CAULK (urethane is sticky as poo poo) caulked so hard the latex popped. gently caress yeah gon' celebrate by a shitload of booze, followed by bad decisions and a hangover for work tomorrow.
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# ? Dec 21, 2015 04:02 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 14:31 |
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Someone has spent a lot of time on their knees.
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# ? Dec 21, 2015 04:28 |
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some texas redneck posted:Someone has spent a lot of time on their knees. You'd be one to know the PO sent us all his records. this included a stack of blueprints for a weird LPG ring network of gas devices, 6" thick folder of receipts, and 2 bluerays full of stuff pertaining to the bus. We even have scanned stuff from paramount ordering the paint for the original colors. (the current look is by the PPO, bus was originally a solid paramount blue (which also changed in hue over the years)) Engine holds 9 gallons of oil. trans holds 3.5 each diff holds 3 gallons. Have some photos when he started tearing into it. There was once rails on the roof to be used as cargo tiedowns. they rusted out leaving holes in the roof. that ended up destroying the roof and flooring throughout. Its prior life was as a jeep hauler and that cracked most of the floor joists in the rear. He pretty much rebuilt the box. This is a sibling to ours. the interior is as 80s as the paintjob.
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# ? Dec 22, 2015 21:18 |
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cursedshitbox posted:
That tail lifter is fantastic, I forget did it come with it? Please take some inspiration from that sibling bus because that air-deflector paint job combo is rad as hell.
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# ? Dec 23, 2015 22:12 |
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Nah the liftgate is long gone, and the engine that operated it. that big fucker took up the entire underside of the rear of the bus. Good its gone, thats where my precious shitter tank is going to go. THE ROUGHING CONVERSION BEGINS. Infact, so rough, even Ken would say its unlivable. but hey, the Wife and I spend weeks at a time living off motorcycles. a shitter and a shower is luxury. front emblem. (hood ornament? ) original color of bus when it was painted for paramount in 1969/70. sanded, painted, re-installed. so much nicer now. yeah so it leaks. Its raining like a motherfucker in the bay area right now. second day of sunshine I go up to check things out. Well theres your problem. Eternabond all the things! I wonder how the neighboring coaches are fairing, they're 35 ish years newer. hahahahahahaha oh We decided to strip the walls in the back and remove the rails. God drat were we stupid. the 1/4" plywood came off with no fuss or fight at all. This should have been a warning. Dropped the wetvent/shower/sink drain in place, realized that yeah, we gotta pull the steel rails *now*. Dammits. Hokay! haha! gently caress YOU! These are held in with non-capive nuts embedded in that lovely rear end foam, with a lockwasher. corrosion and the foam encasing the bolt threads made this a party. one hell of a party. Try to drill them out? LOL, hardened screw. Try to cut them? harder than a catholic preachers dick. Try to back the nut off? lol fat chance rear end in a top hat. you get 5* of engagement, and your lovely wrench ain' cutting the mustard. I found the only way to remove them, was to work front to back, and as I removed two bolts, pry on the rail a few times and that'll shuffle the bolt head just enough to break free easier without stripping. all in all we broke 2 screwdrivers, 7 ph3 bits, numerous dulled blades and drillbits. Several hours later. (I'm not joking). (theres still a second wall of this poo poo. *commits seppuku*) PO for some reason gutted all the foam from behind the breaker panel. whatever *stuffs foam back in* showed up today. see huge puddles growin in the bowels of the demon. poo poo. good thing I've a valve adjustment to do. Coolant pump is leaking admirably too. This though, this takes the cake. 2 nuts, looser than something something you finish it I'm lazy. these go on at 500ft-lb. thats right. 500 ft-lb. Neat thing about steel inners and alloy outers. they rattle off nuts, corrode, and generally just hate each other. Ordered a torque multiplier capable of 3320ft-lb. putting ~7.35 lb-ft on the input of this multiplier will net me the 500ft-lb on the output...given that there is no losses within the mechanism, of which we all know better. 7.5 will do fine. LED markers installed at the rear lowers of the bus. also note that the clearance lamps and marker lights were separated and put on different switches. Where we stopped for the day. bonus content: Todays our first year anniversary. spent shopping for shitter and shower parts. Finalized it with a low key dinner that'd prep us for the trailer park life: temp gauges for trans oil temp.
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# ? Dec 27, 2015 07:54 |
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You did douse them in truffle oil, right?
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# ? Dec 27, 2015 19:38 |
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I've been wondering about the original use. What would make a bus better than a box truck for hauling gear around? The only thoughts I have are a bus is lower to the ground for loading, and perhaps there weren't as many box trucks at the time?
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# ? Dec 27, 2015 21:17 |
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StormDrain posted:I've been wondering about the original use. What would make a bus better than a box truck for hauling gear around? The only thoughts I have are a bus is lower to the ground for loading, and perhaps there weren't as many box trucks at the time? As it's registered/titled as an RV (and always was) you don't need a special drivers license to operate it, while you'd need that for a similar size of box truck, I think? Would mean paramount wouldn't need to pay for whatever extra costs / keep track of who is actually allowed to drive the thing.
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# ? Dec 27, 2015 21:52 |
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Motronic posted:You did douse them in truffle oil, right? Duh. StormDrain posted:I've been wondering about the original use. What would make a bus better than a box truck for hauling gear around? The only thoughts I have are a bus is lower to the ground for loading, and perhaps there weren't as many box trucks at the time? It had a small rv Conversion from the beginning. This thing likely had a driver and a few workers that went site to site loading/unloading heavy poo poo. Box trucks have no provision for this. The deck is 40" off the ground....on the bumpstops. Im pretty sure truck decks win out in that regard.
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# ? Dec 27, 2015 22:05 |
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Opened the thread thinking that the Chemical Safety Board was doing something weird. You've got an interesting project going. Any chance on a Lord Humongous-style nitrous assist? ed: Or this (swiped from the PYF Funny Pictures): Pigsfeet on Rye fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Dec 29, 2015 |
# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:19 |
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Propane would work better. Theres no piston squirters on this particular NH. I will not be turning the power up. If it goes tits up (lolnever) I can convert pretty much any upright inline from 1970 to 1992 to fit. Including a Cummins 444. But thats pushing my luck on the cooling system, and the trans is only rated for 910lb-ft of torque. A slightly older ~350hp 855 would be my best bet. a N14 is a no go. Even though its one of my favorite engines.
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:27 |
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Turbo outlet coupling looks a little iffy there. Also have you considered adding an intercooler or water injection? jamal fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Dec 29, 2015 |
# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:32 |
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cursedshitbox posted:Propane would work better. Detroit 12V92?
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:43 |
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Altitude correction turbo, not a performance adder. there is no BOV, and it generates 5-7PSI. the piston squirter models + blower made 330-380hp. I could drill the block for squirters but . It requires piston changes too, its only 15:1. Dash only has primary tank. I wanted something sort of period correct and nice to look at that'd show both air tanks since real-estate is limited. I'm allergic to gauge pods too.
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:49 |
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Also - Made in the UK. Waiting for your dash to start pissing oil every where and blowing lights.
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:54 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Also - Made in the UK. Waiting for your dash to start pissing oil every where and blowing lights. It already is
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 04:56 |
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This project is brilliant and makes me want a bus.
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 18:42 |
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I feel that "Step to the Rear" would also be a great name for CSB's bus.
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# ? Dec 29, 2015 21:41 |
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keykey posted:I feel that "Step to the Rear" would also be a great name for CSB's bus. I had "Mount a Pair" bouncing around in my head, but it's a bit of a stretch.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 07:44 |
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keykey posted:I feel that "Step to the Rear" would also be a great name for CSB's bus. Genius.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 07:46 |
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keykey posted:I feel that "Step to the Rear" would also be a great name for CSB's bus. You done hosed up. although I still like brokeback bangbus more. Fancy rear end cabinet making jig. This is going to be a permanent wall. it won't be removed when the roughing conversion is dismantled. If it can hold me up, its good. Frame for shower base built. base installed and plumbed. Remounted the electrical panel, properly grounded it (to steel), wired the water heater, and two 110V outlets. Progress thus far. Toilet flange is where the toilet is going to be placed. more loving caulk. plans for my 3 possibly 4 day weekend: Finish the roof sealing install all of the pressurized plumbing paint the loving caulk on Jan 7th we're planning to acquire lotspace to move into this big toaster. Somebody fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Dec 31, 2015 |
# ? Dec 31, 2015 07:43 |
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Remember the kickin rad 80s painted bus? Yeah the dude found *this* thread. His bus still has the rear lift, and it has a gantry crane for loading speedboats/engines into it. He's also upgraded the power from a 743 to a 855 Cummins. He lives a couple hours north of us and wants to do a bus meet sometime. This is gonna be awesome. Its sunny today! This means Eternabond the gently caress out of the roof while its not raining. ^This seam was our biggest roof leaker. Its where he split the sheeting to rebuild the forward roof. We will eventually ETB over all of the roof seams, but right now those don't leak, and at a dollar a foot, we need to focus on the parts that do leak first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UEMIA6xsBM More caulk on the unused doors Painted over the caulk on the forward floor, and threw down some tape to notate the access hatches.
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# ? Jan 2, 2016 01:09 |
This is a ton of work, dude. Impressive as hell.
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# ? Jan 2, 2016 07:22 |
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The Cursedshitbus is moving quickly! How well does eternabond hold up to weather on the exterior roof? The roof on my 101 has always leaked. I re skinned half of it with a big sheet of chequer plate which was stuck down with silkaflex (had loads of holes where I had removed stuff), but it now seems to leak twice as much through every structural roof rivet which I didn't cover.
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# ? Jan 2, 2016 11:19 |
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some of the Eternabond on the roof is already a few years old and aging pretty well. the useful life according to their site is 18-35 years. Silkaflex is pretty well used here too, iirc its under the aluminum sheet joints.
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# ? Jan 2, 2016 15:08 |
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So what's recent news with the Urban Assault Vehicle?
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# ? Jan 13, 2016 02:57 |
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Pigsfeet on Rye posted:So what's recent news with the Urban Assault Vehicle? Its been wetter than gently caress here, so time spent on it has been a minimum. we've spent 3-4 days trying to find a park that didnt mimic nazi germany but didnt have active methlabs. I finished eternabonding the roof today to hopefully seal off the last of the issues. Found a space in concord to work on/live in the fucker. I'm going to be spending a *lot* of time at the marina the rest of this week (and maybe next week) to get everything finished and ready to go. Planning on moving it the weekend of the 23rd. List of poo poo as follows: Freshwater plumbing needs to be installed water heater needs to be strapped sink plumbed toilet procured and plumbed black water vent installed wheel nuts torqued and tire pressures checked coolant/oil/pas levels checked side windows need to be tinted.
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# ? Jan 13, 2016 05:56 |
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Saw this today, thought it would be a good inspiration for V2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVk9WzRkXt4
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# ? Jan 14, 2016 16:13 |
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dreesemonkey posted:Saw this today, thought it would be a good inspiration for V2 I like the aircraft/military style control surfaces in that. Wonder what kind of alternator/genset he's running to power the wad of LEDs. Couldn't do AWD but can definitely retrofit lockers to the rear.... The roof appears to not leak anymore! Just appears the side doors are pissing good again. Speaking of leaks. Freshwater plumbing started, sink mounted, shower plumbed. Wonder how many pex connections I hosed up.
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# ? Jan 14, 2016 16:53 |
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this is my favorite thread
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# ? Jan 14, 2016 22:02 |
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This thread is a house project and an auto project at the same time. Its great!
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 08:42 |
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Okay one thing that I've been wondering about.. Why an electric water heater? Especially such a large one? Are you planning to keep the bus all electric? Just seems like that would be a huge load on a generator (and a decent load for even available outside power, seems like it would make sure you can't easily use 120V outside power). Or would going propane be difficult due to available exterior storage?
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 09:50 |
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some texas redneck posted:Okay one thing that I've been wondering about.. They're going to be living at a RV lot so it'll have hookups for power and water, presumably.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 14:33 |
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some texas redneck posted:Okay one thing that I've been wondering about.. the big bastard is temporary, and was like 20 dollars on craigslist. actually the only permanent interior fixture is the two vertical beams. We do plan on spending a minimum of a week without having to drain the tanks or connect to shore power. Final result will be an electric marine water heater. They have coolant connections with a heat exchanger, as well as electric. It will be an all-electric-coach. theres 27 some odd pages of propane regs and guidelines....in a 30 page book. Plus theres no experience like a tank going empty in the middle of a freezing winter and cutting your hot water. Which brings us back to power. Oh dear god golf cart batteries and a 6.5 kilo generator isn't going to cut it. 3000ish watts of solar on the roof, a 15kw generator for emergencies, and 10kw at 48v batteries. http://elitepowersolutions.com/products/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=149 E: everything that is being done right now to the interior is temporary. Its to let us transition from normal apartment life to living in a van down by the dealers life. Usually, neither of us would do something like this, and we've had some interesting as soon as we move it into the TP though we're getting a washer/dryer set and a truck. because a jeep isn't good at truck things, and I'm not adventurous enough to haul 4x8 sheets on the rack of the supermoto. a shitter? Sure! E2: VVVV: yeah but not a huge one. theres a PTO on the trans, and I could probably hook something up to the crank. I'm thinking more of little 2-3cyl marine diesel. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jan 15, 2016 |
# ? Jan 15, 2016 17:01 |
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Is there a way to run a PTO off the engine to power a big generator? I actually have, in my "why do I even own this?" pile, an adaptor box from a 7.5ton utility truck - it goes in line with the propshaft. Engaged one way it drives the axle, engaged the other way it drives a PTO flange to whatever you need.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 17:07 |
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You could get away with a mobile home water heater, they run lower watts, around 4500-5000 and with some bad math (and guessing on the power factor) should put you around 25 amps while its running, the next biggest draw would be a stove with 2100 watts a burner (guessing), but 15000 watt generator should run every thing that you need. As long as you don't shower and run the oven at the same time. Just need a big gently caress off shore power connector - which I think most decent RV parks run 50 amps.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 17:24 |
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Here in the bay area most are 30amp......with a 30' spot. we'll need at minimum 50. the inverters for the batteries will allow to divert power according to loads too, so that if we overtap the main 50A inlet, it'll just add in battery power to cover the temp surge load. we've gotta be supercareful with battery/generator/inverter/power panel locations otherwise theres going to be massive gauge wiring running through the bus. Davids worked most of it out already, and I can't remember the details at the moment. Temp stove is our gas camping stove that just leaves the coffee maker and blender. which I probably should build a gas powered blender for reasons anyway. E: Right now that water heater is the only large load. we'll use a kerosene heater for if it gets cold enough to warrant such.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 17:28 |
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Oh yeah, with some surge capacity you will be fine, the only thing that would really nail you is a start up load, AC compressors, and pumps. Just make every thing accessible, because gently caress digging insulation/anything stupid. I think most of the 30 amp hook ups are just 120, but that depends on the park too. Most of the parks in my area are all 50/30/20 set ups. Are you doing grey water/black water tanks or just one big tank?
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 18:08 |
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black and grey. + filtration on grey tank for regenerative shower. We've not worked out Aircon yet. Heating is gonna be in the floor via radiant with a diesel emergency heater. 20/30A@120, 50A@240. E: and shitblender (macerator) on black tank.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 18:14 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 14:31 |
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cursedshitbox posted:E: and shitblender (macerator) on black tank. Mother of God, maintaining that thing if it breaks... Spend a lot of loving money on that thing so it never needs replaced.
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# ? Jan 15, 2016 21:25 |