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Just to let you know that I just read the whole thread (slow day at work, eh?) just because of your comment in the chat thread, and I need more rotary in my life for motivation to resurrect my SA22C. Also, Group C/'79 IMSA body kit, all the way. That's what I want on my '79 for sure. Bubble flares 4 life.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:03
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mekilljoydammit posted:
I need to know, right now, if that will fit an SA22C, and how much it will cost.
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Nov 10, 2017 01:04
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mekilljoydammit posted:*the next day* Ah, OK, so the bumper and lower valence are part of the air dam and lower flares, then. Bet I could still make it work with the SA steel bumper. Obviously would require cutting the “bumper” bit off of the piece. I will keep this in mind if you’re willing to sell a copy, seeing as how the early IMSA kit seems to be only found in Japan and Oz. I don’t particularly like the full-fender widebody kits. I like bubble flares.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:35
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That sounds pretty dang cool. You'd still have to do a little fine tuning once the engine's actually in the car, to compensate for actual exhaust, intake, gearbox, etc., but you're "rough" map would probably be better than most hobbyist's finished map. In theory, you could also do RPM and loading manually, datalog, and let one of the MS Autotuning programs work on it.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:15
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mekilljoydammit posted:Man, people were laughing when I was chalking up the tube chassis car as a 10 year project... who's laughing now!? You, but now it's a slightly nervous, some would say a bit hysterical, laugh.
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Jan 17, 2018 18:54
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I've seen it done before, but not without flexing the axle a little bit, which means only a few degrees, and hard on the axles and diff. This is something else entirely.
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Jan 31, 2018 01:26
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Speedway and other circle track suppliers are awesome for all kinds of handy bits that are applicable to most sorts of racing, and even street cars. I'm looking at their access panels to put in the trunk of my '70 Cutlass for fuel pump access when I go to an in-tank EFI pump. Quick-release steering wheel mounts, adjustable upper control arms (also considering those for the Cutlass, along with ball joint extenders, to fix the horrible roll-center/camber gain of the A-body chassis), standardized coil springs, mounts, and adjusters, various tanks and vessels... a whole world of parts.
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Feb 5, 2018 18:42
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mekilljoydammit posted:
Because of course the "400" model would be the 800HP unit, rather than the "800" model.
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Feb 5, 2018 18:43
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Yeah, the model is of an early twin-dizzy 10 or 12A.
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May 18, 2018 21:15
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mustard_tiger posted:I think you can pay people to rechrome used housings so presumably you could cast your own and then send them there. I keep hearing this, but have never seen anyone that actually did it. Would be a good thing, since new first-gen RX-7 and earlier housings are now pretty much nonexistent.
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Jun 7, 2018 15:28
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There was someone on RX7Club or somewhere years ago who was trying to build a rig to spray the wear surface with a ceramic-metallic coating. To get something resembling even coating, the spray head would have to follow the epitrochoid shape. His thread sort of just petered out.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:03
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Oh, I know. That was just what this guy was trying to do. It had merit due to the properties of the ceramic, though no one was sure how well apex seals would actually seal against it.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:59
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You realize that by including it in the picture, we’re going to need to know more about that lawnmower powered contraption behind the transmission now. Edit: also, after all that, you’ve got the nerve to question me putting an old EFI in an even older car... 
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Jun 17, 2018 02:39
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mekilljoydammit posted:No new pics because lazy, but engine and trans is now back in the WRX! Not running yet though, but good enough we can roll it out and get to work on the MX-5. I bought mine for $20 from a wrecking yard... 20 years ago. Then, since it was for an FB, and my car an SA, traded with a guy who somehow got a similar deal on an SA glass moonroof. I also picked up a 3-piece wraparound rear spoiler for $20 from the same car as the glass moonroof at the same time. One of the retainers on the moonroof broke (stupid pot metal), so I need to fabricate one from billet aluminum when I get it back on the road. edit: sold another FB glass moonroof with the GSL-SE I sold a few months ago. Given what I sold the car for (cheap!), I should have kept the moonroof and sold it separately. Had the bag and everything.
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Jul 6, 2018 18:21
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Terrible Robot posted:I wish I’d kept the one-piece factory spoiler for my FB when I sold it. Gonna be a pain in the dick sourcing another one if I ever get an RX7 again (I won’t To be fair, I did have to fix a hole in the top surface, and a crack in both corners on my 3-piece. I keep debating making it a one piece, but I actually got it to fit pretty well, and I was amazed that I managed to make the repairs invisible. edit: mekilljoydammit posted:I'm thinking I'm going to do a relatively quick street build on one of the cars I have a title for. The peripheral port 13B I have sitting around, Miata trans, fender flares, repaint, cutting and hacking on suspension, then drive it.
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Jul 6, 2018 21:59
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Oooooo, peri-port!
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Jul 12, 2018 00:29
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I need to build one of those with wheels. Currently rolling mine around on a furniture dolly. Speaking of which: don't buy the goddamned Harbor Freight ones. The wheels roll fine, but they won't *turn* with a load on them. I have to go get some better casters from Northern Tool now to fix the two HF dollies I have.
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Jul 12, 2018 18:42
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NitroSpazzz posted:Same issue with their wheel/car dollies. You can push the car around all day in the direction the wheels are pointing but it's a bitch if you want to change direction. I use a big open end wrench to manually point the casters before I start pushing to move the car. This is with stuff under ~3400lb, can't imagine it with stuff near capacity. Oddly enough, I did not have that problem with the car dollies. 2500 pound-ish first gen RX-7.
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Jul 12, 2018 23:46
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They are? I hadn't looked recently. Hmmm. I hope I can make the Racing Beat FC 13B NA header I have work.
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Jul 24, 2018 00:23
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Ah, OK. I can see that. I imagine the market is geared more toward the turbo cars, specifically the FDs.
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Jul 24, 2018 21:55
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mekilljoydammit posted:FB and FC guys are typically broke asses as opposed to some FD owners - it's a very different scene. But I could probably sell a few. This is true, but the FBs are starting to become more valuable, so maybe an emerging market? Kind of in a quasi-classic spot right now. At least FBs aren't being destroyed by the handful by drift idiots. Just rust. mekilljoydammit posted:
That looks cool. It'll look severely cool when it all lines up like an MRI scan. mekilljoydammit posted:"The hiring team has decided to review additional candidates at this time." Bummer.
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Jul 25, 2018 22:31
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It'll be fine.
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Aug 16, 2018 23:56
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Silly question, just thought of it looking at your illustration that still has the wide-5 wheels on the other side of the car: can the wide-5 wheels be run reversed? I don't remember precisely how they're arranged. It's been a while since I've seen a wide-5 up close. edit: eh, maybe. The steel ones have a raised lip around the lug holes to accommodate cone-seat lug nuts. I did, however, note that Speedway has separate wheel centers and barrels for wide-5, so you could make your own offset: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wide-5-Wheel-Center-for-15-Inch-Steel-Wheels,7403.html Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 14, 2018 |
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Sep 14, 2018 21:15
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Oh, I know the wheel was just there as a leftover. It just triggered the idea. Yeah, the race stuff is seriously overbuilt, or, more accurately, the production stuff was built to a price point.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:37
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Heh, saw you in the thread. That ecu is intriguing, from the description. I haven’t gone to actually look at it yet, though. Sounded like it’s some sort of block programming? You don’t have to “code” per se, but define inputs outputs and conditions, and chain all that together?
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Jan 26, 2019 20:46
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That sounds pretty neat. Kind of a flow chart, really. Cool. Will look into that, just for curiosity’s sake if nothing else.
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Jan 26, 2019 23:48
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mekilljoydammit posted:Another bump. OK, this is stuff I want to see. I may have the last set of new-in-box Tokico Illuminas in existence, and I only have the front set. And I may not use those, since I have a line on a roller FB and a mess of parts if I can sell of the AE86 I don't want.
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Apr 16, 2019 21:33
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mekilljoydammit posted:edit: Oh yeah, while I could just sit and do my own version, just throwing money at http://www.raceproducts.net/mazda-rx7-400-series-bolt-on-camber-kit/index.html is kind of tempting in a "it will definitely work" sense - especially since all machining said and done it's probably not that much more expensive than making my own if I put any value on my time. OK, that's pretty cool right there.
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Apr 16, 2019 23:54
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Congrats! And yeah, I was a trifle disappointed when my daughter proved to be excited by mechanical things, but expected it. She did at least "help" me with a few projects when she was a toddler. My favorite baby picture of her is from when she stuck a lug nut on each finger and held up her hands. also, I want to believe that your actual last name is *redacted*. edit: 
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 26, 2019 |
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Apr 26, 2019 23:10
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When you are able to design and machine your own stuff, so much becomes possible. I have *got* to get a lathe and small mill. And probably a shop to put them in. 3D printer while I’m wishing. TIG, Plasma cutter... At least I have a MIG now.
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May 4, 2019 18:41
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Neat!
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Dec 17, 2019 00:22
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mekilljoydammit posted:Poking at bearing catalogs, as one does, I may have just found a holy grail of mine - a cheap way to get Miata brakes and stuff onto the FB. I am very interested in this, though my SA has '84 struts, so I can at least use FC brakes with just a machined bearing spacer and a caliper mount. Unless I just swap in the whole FC subframe, of course, which is a distinct possibility.
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Dec 20, 2019 20:45
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That sounds cool.
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Jan 23, 2020 00:10
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Any reason to sticking with the FD trigger? I guess if they work they work. I'm surprised I don't already know the answer to this, but will an FC CAS fit into an FB housing? For some reason, I seem to recall that they do. IS the FD trigger better than the FD, or just more available? I'm still unsure of where exactly I'm going with my SA22C, but it will be a 13B EFI. Which generation depends on which keg I can make build compression, which will inform which system I use. Also, I guess I need to decide on whether I'm sticking with the stock crossmember of going to the FC front suspension, as that will somewhat important in engine block and front cover choice.
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Jan 23, 2020 22:27
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Fair point. I like your idea of trimming out the fat on the front cover to begin with. Heck, build in a mount for a sensor for use with a crank trigger wheel, along with all the other mounts and ports you need.
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Jan 24, 2020 00:21
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This is some extremely cool poo poo. Way more involved that I would mess with, but I’m not at all serious about racing. Still fun to watch (both the sport and the building...) Design and fab work is always interesting to me.
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Mar 18, 2020 19:36
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Oh, yeah. I mainly mean that my goals would be more street-oriented, so a whole swath of what you are doing isn’t just overkill, but counter to my use case, and I would put my efforts elsewhere. Fits your use just fine. Design in service of the end goal and all.
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Mar 26, 2020 20:50
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mekilljoydammit posted:Also designing my own tube notcher because some of the tube miter angles are on the crazy side for anything I can just buy. Of course you are. 
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Apr 29, 2020 19:49
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I guess you're going to have the starter extending aft instead of forward as standard? I mean, totally doable if you're building the bell housing, too.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:43
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Oh, right, the starter is aft of the flywheel on most rotaries. Not sure why I was thinking it was forward. Edit: ooo, quick change.
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Aug 4, 2020 21:31
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