|
Just to make sure - you took casting shrinkage into account, right? I doubt draft is an issue since that's definitely gonna require greensand casting rather than a reusable mold, but shrinkage will screw you over if not accounted for.
|
# ¿ Apr 13, 2016 21:41 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 19:07 |
|
Makes sense. I figured you were doing lost-wax/investment casting, it sure does make things easier.
|
# ¿ Apr 13, 2016 22:02 |
|
Wait a minute. Aisin built all or some of the boxes we are talking about? Can you get me a decent quality pic looking into the bellhousing? Curious about something.
|
# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 04:39 |
|
mekilljoydammit posted:Into the bellhousing from the engine side? Sure. Any particular thing to try to capture? the bolt and locating peg pattern where the BH bolts to the trans, mostly. And the input bearing retainer / TOB quill bolt pattern. Curious if it is shared with some other units I am familiar with.
|
# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 13:43 |
|
Huh. For some reason I thought I saw a bolted joint there, now I'm not sure. You can replace a $270 transmission a lot of times before you have spent $6500... 24 times in fact. Hell, if you buy parts boxes and pillage them to fix yours every time you blow it up you could spend a lot less, unless you keep blowing out the same parts every time.
|
# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 19:33 |
|
Subaru clutch cylinders piss me the gently caress off. Try removing it from the bellhousing, cracking the bleeder, holding it so the bleeder screw actually goes into the highest point in the loving cylinder (it doesn't when it's installed on the car, thanks Subaru!) and then gravity bleed it by holding it down behind the bellhousing on the passenger side while keeping it at that angle. Not that it's helped much, my clutch is STILL being fucky, but it's less fucky than it was and I'm starting to think the fuckyness is that it's a garbage MC not that I didn't fully bleed it. I might be unreasonably angry about this, PROBABLY BECAUSE I'VE GONE THROUGH IT WAY TOO MANY GOD drat TIMES. gently caress YOU SUBARU. This is like a 15 minute task on a jeep and it bleeds right the first drat time, what is so hard?
|
# ¿ Dec 13, 2016 18:50 |
|
I never knew I was so glad I didn't buy a Miata in 2014.
|
# ¿ Dec 13, 2016 18:55 |
|
Actually, you seem like the exact person I should ask about this... Say I want to turn an EJ25D from a 4 stroke engine to a 2 stroke air compressor. Instead of intake, compression, power, exhaust, it'll be intake, compression (pushes air out through 1 way valve replacing spark plug), intake through exhaust valve, compression (pushes more air out through 1 way valve). So all I should have to do is advance the timing on both exhaust cams by 90 degrees, ish. What do you think my chances of making this work with stock cams are? I think it should be way cheap to build a crazy powerful air compressor that way, I'm just not sure how to figure out that angle to put the exhaust cams in at without cutting a head up and observing as I carefully crank it over checking for p-v and v-v interference. The crank sprocket is 24 tooth and cams are 48 so my wild rear end guess would be 12 tooth advance. Thoughts? Since you like, actually design engines for a living and I'm just a tinkerer.
|
# ¿ Mar 15, 2018 01:53 |
|
Yeah, that's not a new idea at all for sure. The only new part was me theorycrafting about doing a true 2 stroke compressor setup without using a custom head (aside from hogging out the plug hole from M14x1.25 to 3/8-NPT that is) or custom cam. Can't you swap DCCD into the 90s phase 1 5mts easily? I can't remember, I looked into it briefly a while ago.
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 02:30 |
|
I think that's called being an engineer sometimes. I spent 300 dollars on an obsolete axle from a dead car maker from 1974, found a new old stock gearset for it because it's not the right pinion offset to use new ones, plus hundreds on other parts, plus tons of time to put a custom Dana 70 in my truck instead of outboarding my leafs 4 inches and using an axle I already had or spending a bit more on a different one that would bolt in. I swear I have rational reasons for this.
|
# ¿ Jun 19, 2018 23:39 |
|
Canbus is cool as poo poo. I can talk ISO 11898 with some degree of competence though the higher level protocols that get layered on it are fuzzy to me. If you need to bounce ideas off someone about the hardware protocol itself though, I'll talk about message boxes, AutoRTR, message ID priority sorting, and message formatting until my face turns blue.
|
# ¿ Aug 10, 2019 03:15 |
|
That's a really drat cool idea, not gonna lie. Seems even better than ultimateforce's pool noodle idea from years ago.
|
# ¿ Dec 14, 2019 18:52 |
|
When I needed to CMM something I ended up putting it on an old shipping crate in one of the laser cutters about to be shipped at work and used the machine vision system to locate the center of each feature. Got me within about a tenth of a thou on each one.
|
# ¿ Jan 23, 2020 18:22 |
|
Yeah, or for example you can say "well it's a hair under 88.5 and something presses into it so that thing must be exactly 88.5 and I need 88.5 minus pressfit".
|
# ¿ Jan 23, 2020 21:11 |
|
Any reason you can't just make a piece that bolts onto the harmonic balancer and a bracket to mount whatever sensor works with your ECU over it at the right airgap? Should be easy to cad and laser cut if you know the angles for the start and stop of each tooth.
|
# ¿ Jan 24, 2020 01:39 |
|
I feel like at a certain point it's easier to either: Back the hole saw out and hack the already-cut sections out of the way with an angle grinder, then go for it again Or Print a coping template on paper and wrap it around the tube, cut with angle grinder But I certainly am not in a position to throw any stones here when it comes to overcomplicating things.
|
# ¿ Apr 30, 2020 06:46 |
|
Speaking as an idiot who has broken 4 (or 5, I can't remember, they all blur together after a while) bellhousings, have you done any FEA on that design? What material do you plan to use? E: personally I would move the ribs to go as directly as possible from the trans mounting bolts to the engine mounting bolts, and ideally thicken the flat surfaces under said bolts as much as possible. Mine always broke starting in the middle of a casting (!) Where it's thinnest squeezing between the edge of the flywheel and one of the bolt holes. I expected it to have started at an edge but on the second or third one, I caught it before it reached any edges. Something I didn't know before all this was that aluminum has no fatigue limit and thus ANY level of cyclical loading will eventually result in a fracture, despite it having an elastic region. It's just a matter of time. Obviously, the higher the loading is and the higher the number of cycles gets, the more likely it is to fracture. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Sep 24, 2020 |
# ¿ Sep 24, 2020 02:17 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 19:07 |
|
Just don't accidentally turn yourself into Han Solo
|
# ¿ Oct 11, 2020 18:55 |