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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

:frogon:

That sidecar is loving amazing, and attaching it to a CB400F? You sir, are brilliant.

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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014


Nothing like setting an unreasonable deadline to make an already insane(ly good) idea even better. CA needs more threads like this, for motorcycle dudes we're a pretty tame bunch.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

sofullofhate posted:

Well, poo poo. :suicide:



Drill a hole through the center, take a new bolt, cut the head off, insert through the hole and weld both sides?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

The only other solution is to find a donor bike, which probably wouldn't have to be a cb400, cut off the whole post and weld it on but that would take time you don't have :)

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

This is triggering all kinds of memories (good and bad) of my CB360. gently caress those master cylinders. That circlip was an absolute bitch to get out of mine and even after a full rebuild the MC leaked. You may want to find a more modern replacement along with a steel line.

For stripping that frame, I would get that job outsourced. Aircraft stripper is horribly toxic, makes a big mess, and doesn't do a great job. Take it to a media blaster, they should be able to do it for $50-$75. Then after you get it painted wrap the frame rails in foam pipe insulation:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Pipe-Insulation-ORP07812/204760801

This will protect the paint when you reinstall the motor. For that, do as others have said and put the motor on its side and lay the frame around it. I keep a big honking piece of foam rubber (36"x48") around the garage for jobs like this, does a great job of keeping the motor from banging on the garage floor while you muscle it around.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Z3n posted:

On 2, the forks having no oil will not really be a big deal structurally.

Yep not sure if you've had those forks apart but they are extremely simple. As long as the damper rod looks ok and there isn't scoring on the lower leg I would replace the seals, springs, and oil and call it good. For the rear shocks, I'd go with progressives.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Frame looks awesome. Removal of 40 year old paint will burn you out, you saved yourself from many headaches by getting it blasted. It's expensive, yeah, but really if you're halfway decent all you need to do is turn one trick and you've made up the cash. You'll be off that street corner in 2 hours, tops.

sofullofhate posted:

:ninja: also ordered a modern master cylinder, because the rebuilt one leaks like a loving sieve.

I wanted to throw mine in the loving river after the same thing happened. I'm not sure if the rebuild kits are poo poo or if the MC just gets bored out but that was one of the most frustrating "I can fix this!" experiences of my whole life. Which MC did you go with?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Looking good. You're probably going to want to engineer some type of support for that carb rack. Removing the airbox also removes the rear support for the carbs, and they will bounce around and wear out the rubber boots and cause air leaks. This will make it a nightmare to get it running right. The pod filters are also going to make it run lean, so a rejet will probably be necessary.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

sofullofhate posted:

No, there will be no custom exhaust. This exhaust is the whole point of the bike, really - I will honestly give her the motorcycle and buy something else to go with the sidecar before changing out the exhaust.

:bravo:

Is this thread going to get a first startup video?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

YES!

and

poo poo!

Did a fuel leak do that? At least it doesn't affect getting it on the road.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

:woop:

That is amazing, good work. I had no idea those sidecars were so light, but my inner engineer is still telling me that you probably want a crossmember type dealio on there or there is going to be some flex. Any test rides yet?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Odd that it is running rich, with those pods it should run lean. How do the plugs look? Have the float levels been set? Do those carbs give you access to the pilot screws?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

sofullofhate posted:

loving carbs. :suicide:

Tell me about it. You know what can kiss my rear end? Float heights. I love how the shop manual will say "set float heights to 9.1mm" but then to measure it you more or less eyeball it with a caliper or gauge.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

The transparent tube method is so superior but they don't always have a spec for that :(

Holy hell had no idea that was a thing had to look it up. Can't find specs for my Hawk though. I need another single carb thumper. Need to rejet or shim the needle? Loosen band on the manifold, spin the carb around.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

sofullofhate posted:

Status update: :woop:

Got the VCG today, installed this evening, buttoned everything up. No change; no surprise. Decided to play the parts-swap game with CV slides. Pulled the #3 slide... and the needle stayed put in the bore. loving circlip failed! Fortunately it was still in the slide rather than having been ingested by the engine. Replaced it with one of the originals, put it back together, pressed the starter and it fired right up to a steady 3-cyl purr.

Took it for a blast. God drat that's quick for a '77! I can say for certain that it wasn't running well when I bought it.

I am pretty happy right now. :frogsiren:

That's loving awesome, glad it turned out to be something so simple. CA demands a ride-by video!

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Holy poo poo that could have been bad. Glad you're ok. If they had taken the Titanic on some test rides, maybe we all wouldn't have had to suffer through that awful movie.

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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Dammit this sucks so bad. Glad to hear your wife is going to be ok. I think you're right about that bolt being overtorqued. IIRC from my CB360 those are only supposed to be torqued to around 15lbs.

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