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peanut posted:Siding spergs - what kind of siding is this? All new houses in Japan seem to use some variant of this. The main reason is probably ease of installation (reduce labor costs) but it also allows flexibility in an earthquake, is fade resistant, and insulates for heat and noise. It's fiber cement. You can read about it in English here. Installed with a rain screen system like they show on that site will give you a durable siding with excellent moisture control (don't know about earthquake flexibility, though). Any claims regarding superior heat & noise insulation are pure marketing bullshit, though.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:21
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peanut posted:Japan has usually just used foam boards up to now but the younger generation of architects uses the fluffy stuff. It's best to use both together (if you use steel studs, a layer of foam is pretty important since the steel substantially bypasses cavity insulation). peanut posted:A domestic remodeling show doing a house right under the flight approach to an airport compared different roof tiles and siding for noise dampening. The architect was disappointed that the cement siding performed better than wood, but rolled with it. The difference was probably either trivial, or from a difference in construction method (the rainscreen clips shown on the site could provide a modest amount of isolation, but isolation can be applied with other siding materials as well). 1/2" of anything (well, maybe not solid tungsten... or Uranium! it's a home security feature!) on its own can't provide a serious improvement in noise over a basic stud wall, particularly when there are intentionally holes to bypass it.
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Mar 30, 2016 03:17
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peanut posted:Dang! That looks like a whole different house. Goongrats Why can I see your whole floor plan, down to the closets, in poured concrete?
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Apr 12, 2016 21:28
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Edit: I love those old school tiny stone tiles in the shower.
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peanut posted:Hella earthquake safety. Maximize the beams that go all the way from foundation to roof. I figured, though I'm kind of skeptical that tying your closet to the foundation provides any earthquake safety. But then again I would probably go over kill if a 9 magnitude quake seemed like a real possibility. That's going to be a crawlspace, correct? Did they put any insulation under the slab? (It doesn't look like it from the pic of the pour) wormil posted:I am about to remodel the bathroom off our family room. This part of the house has a slab foundation. I will gut the bathroom, insulate, replace all the pipes, then put it back together. No problem. Looking for advice on the putting it back together part. The back wall is bumped out for some reason and I'm trying to decide what to do with it. The current sink cabinet was built in place and I hate it, I've always hated it. I want something modern, clean and simple but I also need to store towels and various crap used by a family of four. I do not want another weird shaped cabinet but I am open to suggestions. Off your family room? That is quite a weird bathroom. Do you need a tub/shower in there? Is the bumpout an overhang, or does the slab also bump out? If it's an overhang, you probably want to pull up the sub floor to seal & insulate there as well.
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Apr 13, 2016 18:39
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peanut posted:Plumbing Hot water lines with no insulation in direct contact with concrete? Definitely would not be my first choice. And that's in a vented crawlspace? I assume you're supposed to close the vents in winter? wormil posted:I would prefer to tear out the bathtub and replace it with a shower. But my wife is fighting me tooth and nail insisting that we must have a bathtub in that room. What the gently caress for I don't know because no one takes baths in this house, we all take showers. Cleaning animals or small children? (Those of guests or future home buyers, if you don't have any)
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Apr 17, 2016 17:03
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wormil posted:I've been planning on using cpvc for the replacement pipes. Should I reconsider and do PEX? Is there a good resource, maybe on youtube, for installing pex? (I see a ton of videos but not sure if someone has a specific recommendation) CPVC is the cheapest crap that's still adequate enough to be legal. It's brittle to start with, gets worse as it ages, and it's more work to install and repair than PEX. The only strength I can think of that doesn't involve spending less money is that it's easier to install in neat-looking straight lines. I would not use CPVC in my home. I don't know about any videos, but if you want to do some reading this design guide can tell you a lot about using PEX. For DIYing one bathroom, you should go with the cinch-clamp system. The expansion systems are arguably better, but the benefits are minor and the required tools are much more expensive.
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Apr 17, 2016 23:39
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kid sinister posted:Isn't that exactly what radiant floor heating is? Precisely. I don't want my shower water radiant heating my crawlspace. peanut posted:It rarely goes below 10 C here Huh, okay then. I've never seen color coded insulation used in the US.
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Apr 19, 2016 13:51
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I just gave those pink and blue tubes a squeeze. The colored part is an insulation sleeve, with the actual water pipe inside.
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peanut posted:Elegant traditional something. The wood was done by machine in a factory, but the carpenters still need to chisel some pieces to make them fit well. Your framing is bizarre and fascinating. Those little jacks are permanent, I'm guessing? What's in between the sill beams and the concrete (it's much thicker than typical US sill seals)? edit: and what is used for the subfloor? Those square look fairly large, so do you use something very strong or do you just have bouncy floors?
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Apr 20, 2016 17:01
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peanut posted:Those blue squares are insulation (approx 90x90cm.) The subfloor will go on after this rain lets up. So ~4x4 beams 1m O.C. You subfloor must be fairly thick? 3/4"? 1"? I'm pretty sure you need those jacks even without any earthquakes. The IRC doesn't offer any span tables for 4x4 joists, but spaces 1m OC a 1m maximum span sounds about right. I'm curious to see how the second floor will be framed. xwing posted:I like it... do you happen to know a name for the product or what it's called? Right now concrete and block in my area has doubled in cost. Not only do I think it's absurd that that was the standard anyway, but now that cost is way up I think that crawl space designs can make it back. I think it is this "Joto Vent". But don't do it! Turn away from the dark side, choose the conditioned crawlspace!
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Apr 21, 2016 20:29
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). Our builder said that black layer on top of the foundation is a vent for the crawlspace. Older houses have brick-size vents at regular intervals, but this kind of skinny megavent is the new standard. It keeps animals out, at least.
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Ah, I'd thought you did more residential from some of your other comments. I recently read about someone building their house with AAC (here). Interesting stuff, but I can't see a whole lot of value to it for residential construction (cold climate, at least) unless the installed cost is competitive with CMU blocks.
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Apr 21, 2016 21:42
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All that in one day!? How many workers were there?
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Apr 25, 2016 05:56
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peanut posted:EDIT: VVV 6 dudes plus a crane operator. All the beams came pre-cut and labeled so it was all wooden hammers and a few bolts. This is seriously mind blowing to me. Does the subfloor just magically slot into place too, or does that get fasteners?
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Apr 26, 2016 04:03
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Tim Thomas posted:I find the way the bracing is done, as well as the lack of jack or cripple studs in favor of housed dados, to be really neat. It's like the 1940s never ended from a craftsmanship point of view. Except that now, in true Japanese style, most of the craftsmanship is done by robots.
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May 8, 2016 06:47
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I'm quite happy with my Samsung fridge. It's a 4 door with a "FlexZone" drawer. I store meats in the drawer, and keep it set to 29f, which doubles the safe storage time compared to a 37f fridge compartment (and sous vide pasteurized chicken breasts will keep for 90+ days!).
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May 10, 2016 02:42
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peanut posted:The Eco Cute water heater system automatically fills the bathtub, reheats bathwater, records hot water usage, lets you select priority for hot water between the bath and kitchen, and adjusts supply to meet demand (to save energy.) Do you use it for heating your house too? I wish I could get one of those things, but even if I managed to import one, none of the residential HVAC installers in the US have the training/equipment for the CO2 refrigerant 
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Sep 10, 2016 00:00
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On top of the high operating pressure, there are some extra hazards from the high expansion of trapped liquid CO2 or the formation of dry ice. And even aside from that, the critical point is 87.8f, so part of the refrigeration cycle is supercritical.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:04
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Pull the mineral wool back out and fill the gaps with low expansion spray foam.
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Sep 15, 2016 20:52
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