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Bajaha posted:They make fancy ones now that can snake in to tighter places, and have a little grabber at the end for stubborn/non-magnetic things Reminds me of the machines in the movie matrix. Where do you get that? Looks very useful.
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Apr 22, 2016 02:14
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koollook124 posted:Reminds me of the machines in the movie matrix. Where do you get that? Looks very useful. I think I got mine from CT, or princess auto. Harbor Freight should have something similar too. Woops, that's in canadian fun bucks, and we're used to bending over. http://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Pick...7TQX9C0DR0XVMV3 Bajaha fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Apr 22, 2016 |
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Apr 22, 2016 02:21
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The extendable ones made out of an antenna do suck. These days you can get flexy ones that can be flexed into a weird shape and will hold it, which I like a lot more.
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Apr 22, 2016 16:39
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kastein posted:The extendable ones made out of an antenna do suck. These days you can get flexy ones that can be flexed into a weird shape and will hold it, which I like a lot more. They also have an on/off magnet, to avoid the aforementioned sticking-to-the-block issue. http://smile.amazon.com/Vim-FMI3724-Powerlifter-Magnetic-Pickup/dp/B0015SIAH6 I didn't pay close to that for mine, but that's the style. ::EDIT:: http://www.vimtools.com/store/page7.html $6/each, buy a bunch. They still have the claw-type ones too. AND, the locking screwdriver-handled extensions are loving trick as hell. HD375 sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Apr 22, 2016 |
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Apr 22, 2016 17:52
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Many of these cars were victims of the Great Honda Genocide of 1997-2007. They really are fantastic despite their image. I'm on my second DA, but the DC is also fantastic. I love those wheels btw, please keep them.
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Apr 22, 2016 19:15
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Human Grand Prix posted:Many of these cars were victims of the Great Honda Genocide of 1997-2007. They really are fantastic despite their image. I'm on my second DA, but the DC is also fantastic. I love those wheels btw, please keep them. Honda really had some of the best looking factory wheels in the 90s. These include: 92-95 Civic VX 96-00 Civic HX 99-00 Civic Si 92-93 Integra GSR 94-95 Integra GSR 98-01 Integra GSR 98-01 Integra LS/GS 97-98 + 00-01 Integra Type R
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Apr 23, 2016 01:55
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The wheels will end up staying for sure, gotta clean them up a lot. The car was improperly lowered and the tires have been eating the splashguards, I found a replacement passenger side one but haven't found a drivers side one yet. I pretty sure I'm going to swap itr springs and shocks onto it, I've seen a few oem sets for around 300$.
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Apr 23, 2016 03:20
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koollook124 posted:The wheels will end up staying for sure, gotta clean them up a lot. The car was improperly lowered and the tires have been eating the splashguards, I found a replacement passenger side one but haven't found a drivers side one yet. I pretty sure I'm going to swap itr springs and shocks onto it, I've seen a few oem sets for around 300$. ITR rear shocks are box in style instead of having a fork on the end so if you do that you'll need ITR rear lower control arms as well. I'd go with a set of eibach sportline springs, they are a slight drop that actually ride better than stock. If you have access to a press replacing the bushings with poly bushings are a cheap upgrade. edit:  GSR vs ITR rear lower control arms. doogle fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Apr 23, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 03:29
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doogle posted:ITR rear shocks are box in style instead of having a fork on the end so if you do that you'll need ITR rear lower control arms as well. I'd go with a set of eibach sportline springs, they are a slight drop that actually ride better than stock. If you have access to a press replacing the bushings with poly bushings are a cheap upgrade. Dang, good to know. Thought they used the same control arms, chances are pretty poor that I'd find a set of itr control arms for a decent price.
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Apr 23, 2016 04:05
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koollook124 posted:The wheels will end up staying for sure, gotta clean them up a lot. The car was improperly lowered and the tires have been eating the splashguards, I found a replacement passenger side one but haven't found a drivers side one yet. I pretty sure I'm going to swap itr springs and shocks onto it, I've seen a few oem sets for around 300$. Bilstein B6s are available for your car and are great.
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Apr 23, 2016 22:20
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A few short nights of updates here: Removal of the cams:  Hoping some of you guys can tell me if this looks like excessive wear of not  Soooo... Organized   FAP FAP  ^Yeah that's right, one bag per bolt. I'm a wasteful bastard. Time to get B-Headed. I guess i should have drained the coolant from the block somewhere, i thought it would come out of the lower radiator drain but I guess i was wrong. This is probably alright sitting like this for a bit hopefully(right?).    Pictures look kind of sucky but to my untrained eye the cylinders look pretty tidy, walls dont appear to be scored on any cylinders or anything, turns over by hand very easily. And what we've all been waiting for. 4  3  2  And 1  Someone didn't close the door and let all the heat out, Boo.   Cant 100% tell whats going on here but it looks like a valve seat bit the dust and or a part of the valve is damaged, this was the one with 55psi after lash adjustment. Cylinders 2 and 4 had the best compression but I'm guessing ran rich to make up for the others hence the buildup? And cylinder 3 looks pretty normal to me(needed a lot of valve lash adjustment earlier). So the next plan is to find a good shop that can do the valve work on the head and I will need to get together the replacement bits to piece this all back together, timing belt is being replaced by the way of course. By the way, doesn't look ported, cheap asses.
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Apr 27, 2016 04:07
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So a B16 head then. Still not a bad head. Throw valves and valve seats + valve guides at it and it'll run great for another 300k. What's going on with the crispy looking valves in 2 and 4? (I admit now I don't know much about how they should look)
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Apr 27, 2016 08:25
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Drained the coolant out of the block and was pouring it into a milk jug and found the woodruff key! Got myself one of those neat bendy light grabbing magnet tools from autozone. I'm working on removing the timing belt now, once that's all set and I send the head away to be worked on in going to tackle the other random areas like the messed up mirrors.
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Apr 29, 2016 14:26
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That is a B16 head. I would have the machine shop check the cams as well, that doesn't look great from the pictures. If they are bad and are B16 cams (here is a guide to tell you what you have: http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm) you can generally pick up a set on craigslist for $50-75. I would be more worried about the cam caps, if they are scarred the machine shop may need to weld and line bore them to fix it.
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Apr 30, 2016 04:03
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doogle posted:That is a B16 head. I would have the machine shop check the cams as well, that doesn't look great from the pictures. If they are bad and are B16 cams (here is a guide to tell you what you have: http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm) you can generally pick up a set on craigslist for $50-75. I would be more worried about the cam caps, if they are scarred the machine shop may need to weld and line bore them to fix it. The cam part I pictured is the intake can closest to the gear, that cap had one spot I can catch my finger nail on. The rest of the caps are spotless. Small note to integra owners, while 5th generation accord mirrors look identical, they are just different enough so that they will not fit on integras, very disappointing. The passenger side mirror is all fixed but I still need a donor mirror for the else overs side.
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May 1, 2016 18:37
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Head is off to the machine shop, I'll be sure to post gleaming pictures of it once it's done! Depending on how much material is taken off I will need to choose a head gasket thickness it looks like.
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May 5, 2016 02:30
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doogle posted:ITR rear shocks are box in style instead of having a fork on the end so if you do that you'll need ITR rear lower control arms as well. I'd go with a set of eibach sportline springs, they are a slight drop that actually ride better than stock. If you have access to a press replacing the bushings with poly bushings are a cheap upgrade. Doogle The gsr rear away bar doesn't appear that it attaches to the control arms the same way the itr one does either, unless I'm seeing things. If I'm mistaken and they do then this itr set seems like a decent deal. https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131583332258
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May 5, 2016 03:29
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Hello Mr Shiny!     .06 was taken off and 2 valves replaced (1 intake 1 exhaust), done at literally the only machine shop I could find around here but has a good reputation. Smells of cigarette smoke just as bad as the shop owner, camshafts and journals are in good shape so big win there too. Decided its time to take off the drivers side motor mount tonight.    Foolish me thought I could pull off the pulley with a rubber strap and a breaker bar, going to go at it with the impact later to get it off.  Took a level and a feeler gauge to the top of the block and .04 didn't fit under anything so I'm thinking we are pretty straight there, just a little bit of cleanup and I think that's good to go. The .06 taken off the head is more than I would have liked honestly, I'm hoping someone one here might have a recommendation for a thicker headgasket so I don't need adjustable cam gears or anything, or tell me if that's a bad idea? I'm going to start looking around for one and see what I can turn up. Little torn on the suspension options, I can an oem replacement for all 4 corners(springs and struts) for around 350, or I go b6s and eibach sportline springs recommended earlier but will set me back probably a good 600+. I really do like the way these cars handle stock actually.
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May 7, 2016 03:16
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Are you sure it was actually 0.06? I see people confuse hundredths and thousandths way, way more often than I ever thought possible, and 6 thou sounds pretty reasonable for a head surfacing job.
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May 9, 2016 19:57
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kastein posted:Are you sure it was actually 0.06? I see people confuse hundredths and thousandths way, way more often than I ever thought possible, and 6 thou sounds pretty reasonable for a head surfacing job. Pretty sure you are right and this dude didn't take his middle school math. There is an indicator on the intake side which shows on this head if it has been milled past its normal service specification and it's not past it. Also from my research if .06 is milled off then it starts getting close to valve seats and I'm no where close in my opinion. I ordered my new timing belt, tensioner and top end gasket kit. Water pump was done like 3 years ago so I'm I've decided to leave it in place. Still haven't fired up my 90dba(it's awful) compressor to hit the crank pulley with my impact yet to get the old timing belt off so that's next. I'm also pretty sure I'm going to return to completely stock suspension :/
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May 10, 2016 00:25
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Yeah him milling off 1/16th" sounds like a lot..
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May 10, 2016 04:05
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Big update because I've been busy on the car/ working on mountain bikes and other shenanigans. Got that bastard crank pulley off   Old belt and covers  Replaced both of these because they were poo poo old n busted  new hottness  Mating surfaces cleaned up nicely in my opinion, intake manifold needed some razor blade work at the right angle. Looks nice  Headgasket dropped on   Head dropped on   Cams in and head bolts tightened  Journals on, covers on and cam gears attached. I found that 2 bolts were incorrect and needed to replace them next to the distributor, stupid PO    New timing belt and tensioner. Actually lined up perfectly on the first try!  ugly valve cover on, may I should send away for a cosmic paint job(no)?  Ready for the exhaust manifold and intake manifold    Spark plugs dropped back in and dizzy attached and i was ready for the first turnover(oil and coolant added and whatnot of course)   AAAAAAND, it wouldn't start. I was convinced it was my battery, I had killed it many times and overcharged it when I first had it and it was in bad shape to begin with. New battery gets dropped in and same results though, turns out the IACV and the MAP sensor use the exact same plugs(fun fact) and were reversed. so we start up and it runs rough while I set up the timing with a light, I have a video somewhere but it's pretty boring so I'll spare you the experience. It would appear that due to the amount taken out of the head or the fact that this ay be the second time this head was milled requires me to get adjustable cam gears, which I have now ordered. Retarding(right word?) the timing starts to let it run slightly better but not very good, and to support that the compression ranges from 135 to 150 on all cylinders, consistent but lower. Once the adjustable cam gears come in I think I will be compensating about 3 degrees roughly to start and then checking compression. It will likely take some testing but that's the game plan, and this thing will probably always need 93 gas in it would be my guess.
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Jun 14, 2016 03:55
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koollook124 posted:New timing belt and tensioner. Actually lined up perfectly on the first try! And uh, how sure are you that both cams are lined up right? I've driven a B18 with one cam a tooth off. It ran fine at high RPMs (had absolutely no problem burying the speedometer), but at idle and anywhere below about 3k it ran like poo poo. The emissions numbers on it were hilariously terrible too. IIRC it's really easy to get one cam a tooth off and have everything look perfect.
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Jun 14, 2016 05:01
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some texas redneck posted:And uh, how sure are you that both cams are lined up right? That was my original thought but I've since checked it gazillion times and it's definitely dead on right. Regardless it will be checked again when the new gears go on though. I heard a few times of people running into this in cases where a lot has been removed from the head, this could be the second time it was milled too.
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Jun 14, 2016 13:45
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Man I was looking for one of these for my NASA/RA build. I sold my B5 and got a 9th gen Si which is less interesting than I'd like. I haven't posted/read AI in a year or two when life took over. Glad to see all the Honda love, I'll have to make a thread for my boring piles. Bookmarked! Excited to see where this goes.
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Jun 15, 2016 16:59
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SierraEchoBravo posted:Man I was looking for one of these for my NASA/RA build. I sold my B5 and got a 9th gen Si which is less interesting than I'd like. I haven't posted/read AI in a year or two when life took over. Glad to see all the Honda love, I'll have to make a thread for my boring piles. I look forward to seeing your thread once you put it together. Once this is moving well under its own power I will take some decent outside pictures of it a few people have asked about. The body work is going to be a bit of a pain but if I leave it a little ugly maybe it will be less likely to be stolen?
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Jun 15, 2016 21:22
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koollook124 posted:I look forward to seeing your thread once you put it together. Once this is moving well under its own power I will take some decent outside pictures of it a few people have asked about. The body work is going to be a bit of a pain but if I leave it a little ugly maybe it will be less likely to be stolen? 100% It may be as early as this weekend! I picked up stuff to help the engine breathe better, and a flashpro to get the thing dialed in. Right now it's got a cold air intake, stock otherwise. I've never owned a Japanese car till this one so any and all advice would be super cool. It's already easier to work on that my Audi, which I guess is a given.
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Jun 15, 2016 21:58
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You also might have smoked the MAP sensor plugging it into the IACV connector, depending on which pins do what on the Honda MAP/IACV motor. If it keeps running like crap after you dink around with everything else check that, or maybe buy a spare MAP off a junkyard car for 5 bucks and try it out.
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Jun 15, 2016 22:14
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kastein posted:You also might have smoked the MAP sensor plugging it into the IACV connector, depending on which pins do what on the Honda MAP/IACV motor. If it keeps running like crap after you dink around with everything else check that, or maybe buy a spare MAP off a junkyard car for 5 bucks and try it out. Definitely won't rule that out. I have a hard time finding these cars at junk yards up here so I hope I get lucky and don't need it. I'm also wondering if I'd pull a engine code from that not working or not, I suppose I'll see.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:24
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SierraEchoBravo posted:100% It may be as early as this weekend! I picked up stuff to help the engine breathe better, and a flashpro to get the thing dialed in. Right now it's got a cold air intake, stock otherwise. I've never owned a Japanese car till this one so any and all advice would be super cool. It's already easier to work on that my Audi, which I guess is a given. Sounds fun, I really only know anything about the b series honestly so : SierraEchoBravo posted:100% It may be as early as this weekend! I picked up stuff to help the engine breathe better, and a flashpro to get the thing dialed in. Right now it's got a cold air intake, stock otherwise. I've never owned a Japanese car till this one so any and all advice would be super cool. It's already easier to work on that my Audi, which I guess is a given. I mostly only know anything about the b series but I'll try to help out. I think at least one other goon on here has a 9th gen si though.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:28
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koollook124 posted:Definitely won't rule that out. I have a hard time finding these cars at junk yards up here so I hope I get lucky and don't need it. I'm also wondering if I'd pull a engine code from that not working or not, I suppose I'll see. Try unplugging the MAP. It should be able to idle decently without it. It'll run like poo poo at anything except idle with it unplugged of course, and IIRC it'll take a bit longer to fire up when cranking it, but it will idle. If it uses the same map sensor as the original engine (it probably does), you can pull one from: ACURA CL 1997-1999 ACURA INTEGRA 1994-2001 ACURA TL 1999 HONDA ACCORD 1994-2002 HONDA CIVIC 1992-2000 HONDA CIVIC DEL SOL 1993-1997 HONDA CR-V 1997-2001 HONDA ODYSSEY 1995-1999 HONDA PRELUDE 1996-2001 HONDA S2000 2000-2005 ISUZU OASIS 1996-1999 (basically most mid 90s to very early 00s Hondas)
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Jun 16, 2016 10:28
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koollook124 posted:Doogle I'm not positive, but it seems like the ITR rear arm has a spot for the rear sway bar bracket in the exact same spot. I know that you cannot run an ITR rear bar on a GSR without a kit or you will tear your rear subframe. edit: Remember that the distributor is attached to the end of the intake cam so any changes to intake cam gear (once you have adjustable gears) will affect ignition timing as well so you need to adjust it when you make an intake gear change. .010 is the factory limit for surfacing, but I've taken heads well past that (my current LS/VTEC turbo car has had ~.030 so far with plenty of meat left) so I wouldn't be worried in that regard. Every .010 you take off the head or block, you are retarding cam timing ~1.5-2 degrees. I would start with a +3/+3 adjustment on the cam gears and set the ignition timing to 16btdc. Remember that you have to short the service connector under the dash before you set the ignition timing or the ECU will make adjustments as you change it. Unfortunately without knowing how much it has been surfaced before you really won't be able to get it 100% correct without a dyno. Once you get it running good enough I would throw a tri-Y header on it along with a less restrictive filter for the stock intake and get it dyno tuned on Chrome. A GSR with your mods will probably make ~185whp with a header which would be very fun for a daily. doogle fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 12:29
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doogle posted:I'm not positive, but it seems like the ITR rear arm has a spot for the rear sway bar bracket in the exact same spot. I know that you cannot run an ITR rear bar on a GSR without a kit or you will tear your rear subframe. Didn't know about the service connector needing to be unplugged before timing adjustments. I'll be looking into that then too and let you know, thanks for all the info.
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Jun 16, 2016 13:48
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I just remembered that you have a different intake manifold too, a stock gsr intake has butterfly secondaries. If you don't get a tune it will always run like poo poo. I can socket your ecu for you if you want, you can order a base map off of eBay or phearable.net with the specs of your motor. Also double check you have the tps, map, and iacv plugged into the correct places as they all use the same connector. Make sure you do a valve adjustment as well. edit: Valve adjustment specs are: INTAKE : 0.006″ – 0.007″ (0.15mm – 0.19mm) EXHAUST : 0.007″ – 0.008″ (0.17mm – 0.21mm) on a cold engine (less than 100 degrees). If these are out of spec they can cause lower compression numbers, and yours is a bit low. I'd want it at ~190+. here is a decent how-to guide: http://raz-veinz.com/Blog/?p=932 doogle fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 16:18
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koollook124 posted:Had me some heids last Saturday, Hoffman hotdogs are the best(looking to start a hotdog argument)! You're doing the lord's work saving that b series. Also, how the hell did you find an integra, owned by a teenager, in central NY, that didn't have holes in the bodywork/frame big enough to fit your fist through? Pretzellogic fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 00:32
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Pretzellogic posted:Zweigle's or nothing. Originally came from Delaware, I got lucky 😀
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Jun 17, 2016 03:15
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doogle posted:I just remembered that you have a different intake manifold too, a stock gsr intake has butterfly secondaries. If you don't get a tune it will always run like poo poo. I can socket your ecu for you if you want, you can order a base map off of eBay or phearable.net with the specs of your motor. Also double check you have the tps, map, and iacv plugged into the correct places as they all use the same connector. Valve lash adjustment all good to go, did it before the head was off and I just did it again now that it's back on. It's anyone guess what was done on the ecu before I got it so I will get into that once the gears are on, compression is correct and the timing is right. I'll be sure to look your way then doodle.
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Jun 17, 2016 03:18
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I finally rolled it out of the garage to snap some pictures of it in the sunlight. In terms of body damage the priority of course is the rear bumper and the drivers side mirror that I still need to source a donor for. The metal underneath the bumper seems unscathed so the plan will be to source a new one and have it repainted if needed, kinda looks worse than it really is.    The Adjustable gears are on but it looks like there will be no way around getting one of those special pieces to hold them in place to torque down the bolts on the gears. The factory ones have enough space to shove a screw driver into them to stop them from moving but these do not. I've also come to realize that since I just did a valve adjustment before adding these and making adjustments it's possible my adjustments were not at true TDC and I will need to do it again, boo. 
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Jun 22, 2016 03:44
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So I'm running 6 degrees advance and my compression numbers range from 195 to 210 between the 4 cylinders. Did another valve lash adjustment to spec again and I started it up and managed to get the timing into the red where it should be. I and still running rough and throwing code p0117 for low circuit on the ect coolant temperature sensor. This can either be the coolant sensors having an issue or possibly low on coolant and not filler properly(kinda rushed it). When I hit the clear code on my scanner it starts to run nice and then bogs down again when it pops the code again so I think this may be my remaining issue.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:58
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Honda ECUs definitely aren't happy if the ECT isn't working properly. Does your scan tool let you see what the ECU thinks the engine temp is? What happens if you unplug the sensor? You probably know this, but there's two sensors - one for the ECU, one for the gauge. IIRC they're really close to each other.
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Jun 29, 2016 05:40
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