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If I unplug the sensor on the thermostat I get no change, I believe this one shows on the dash and I believe it's working properly; Hondas rarely go over 1/3 on the gauge if I recall correctly. The little one plugged into the head that operates on resistance from what I read I believe is the bad one. It had a seemingly frayed wire which I've soldered and replaced and Im seeing voltage from the end of the connector to ground but Its kinda goofy, I get anywhere from 3-8 volts depending on if it's being touched of not. It's worth noting that I did not have those code before The head was worked on so I must have either messed up the wire or messed up the sensor cleaning it before reinstalling it. think in order to properly test the sensor I need to remove it and test ohms on it maybe, not sure.
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Jun 29, 2016 12:58
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I'm going to start with the basics tonight and make sure the coolant passages are fully filled and all burped. If it's not In Contact with coolant it will pull this error too. Then I move back on to the other troubleshooting.
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Jun 29, 2016 13:36
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The 3 wire plug on the head is what the ECU reads ECT from. The 1 wire is for your cluster only and the ECU does not read from it. The one on the thermostat is only for the fan. The part number is 37870-PJ7-003, and I think I have an extra one laying around if you need it.
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Jul 2, 2016 08:36
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doogle posted:The 3 wire plug on the head is what the ECU reads ECT from. The 1 wire is for your cluster only and the ECU does not read from it. The one on the thermostat is only for the fan. Yep you're absolutely right, I used my reader to determine the sensor appears to be at fault here. I didn't realize this engine had so many temperature sensors, I thought this one was for the vtec solenoid actually. They are cheap enough to snag one up today easily and swap, probably not even worth it for you to ship doogle but I appreciate the offer. After this I'm pretty certain the engine is 100% and I'm onto the rest.
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Jul 2, 2016 17:02
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Update: More of my sensors were swapped, :-/. One of the Vtec sensors and the ect share the same sensor connector. Once correcting that I was able to validate that I am getting accurate temperature readings so the sensor is ok. I saw a slight improvement in how the engine was running after doing this but still would not idle well. Pulled the iacv and cleaned it thoroughly and reinstalled. Checked voltages to the map sensor which appeared to be correct but I'm not ruling this out as possibly being bad. I did clean the map sensor when the head went back on so shouldn't need to do that. After about 3 attempts tonight I bled all the air out of the coolant system. This made a huge difference, did the ignition timing again and I'm here now. Idling actually very well. https://youtu.be/u2sS4owbcYs ^hopefully that works I still have an issue where if I rev it up and let it drop back to idle it drops too fast and ends up stalling. No codes at all since correcting the ect plug so I think I'm down to replacing either the map or iacv or possibly tracing a vacuum leak. I may replace the plugs again because I think I fouled them a bit during all the testing. Also fixed and issue with the door jam stopper thingy. It was missing it entirely and I swapped one from the junkyard I got a while ago. Yay
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Jul 8, 2016 02:55
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That sounds like a bad or dirty IACV or TPS to me. On my 1988 Jeep Comanche it was the TPS (though it has a completely different EFI system, so this may be a false datapoint, I bet doogle knows better than me) and a dirty IACV can totally cause that as well.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:06
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 See the flathead screw? Honda seals that screw on some throttle bodies though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Jul 10, 2016 |
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Jul 9, 2016 22:13
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Usually if your IACV is failing your idle will fluctuate between 700-1500+. My guess is a vacuum leak or you need to adjust the idle. To adjust the idle you need to let the car warm up to normal operating temps then unplug your IACV at which point your idle should drop slightly. Once the car is idling with the IACV unplugged, adjust the idle screw until your tach reads 650 rpm. Once that is done, plug your IACV back in and it should raise the idle to 750 rpm. A couple of points: - If it drops the idle so much that the car dies when you unplug the IACV, you need to raise your idle with the idle adjustment screw then start the process over. -If your idle doesn't drop at all when you unplug your IACV, there is a good chance your IACV is bad.
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Jul 10, 2016 04:31
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doogle posted:Usually if your IACV is failing your idle will fluctuate between 700-1500+. My guess is a vacuum leak or you need to adjust the idle. Ayup. OPERATING TEMPERATURE is key here. It's gotta be there, or else all the adjustments go out the window. And I'll bet that the IACV is 90% dead, along with the idle speed needing adjustment.
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Jul 10, 2016 15:08
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Update: That screw is a bitch to turn(and now very much stripped). At operating temperature I unplugged the iacv and it died immediately. Tried to unscrew and got about a half turn and would not move more, maybe backed out as far as it goes? Would not idle, tried screwing it in but only got about 2 rotations on it, same with no start. I'm thinking I'm possibly tracing a vacuum leak, which I'm finding difficult to find corresponding diagrams because the vacuum lines there are for the gsr IM which I don't have. I was pretty sure I had them setup properly well before pulling the head but now I'm questioning it. I will try to snap a few pictures or diagram where I have the lines going. Runs great cold!
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Jul 11, 2016 01:55
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koollook124 posted:Update: You may need to get an impact screw driver to get the idle screw loose enough to adjust. Spray it with pb blaster as well. It is a brass screw as you found out, so it is very soft metal. Rev the car slightly with the throttle body when you unplug the IACV then slowly release to see if you can get it to idle on its own. Most likely what is happening is the ECU is using the IACV to set the idle to normal, instead of the idle adjustment screw being set properly. This is fine 90% of the time except when it goes from high RPM to low RPM quickly as the ECU can't adjust the IACV quick enough to stop the car from dying. It is probably idling too low without ECU IACV adjustment due to the displacement difference of the b16 throttle body vs the b18 block (b16 throttle body idle screw would have been set for a 1.6 liter and I doubt anyone adjusted it when it was put on the GSR's 1.8)
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Jul 11, 2016 04:23
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doogle posted:You may need to get an impact screw driver to get the idle screw loose enough to adjust. Spray it with pb blaster as well. It is a brass screw as you found out, so it is very soft metal. Rev the car slightly with the throttle body when you unplug the IACV then slowly release to see if you can get it to idle on its own. That makes a lot of sense, if I need to I will remove the throttle body so I can back it out. I have a new gasket for it anyways and it doesn't look to difficult to remove. Pb blaster did not seem to help but if I give it time to work when I have it out that should help out. Thank you for all of the help I appreciate it, one day I will be done here.
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Jul 11, 2016 23:28
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Worst case, if you trash the screw or TB, a new throttle body is <$100 on eBay, including the TPS and MAP sensor.
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Jul 11, 2016 23:46
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some texas redneck posted:Worst case, if you trash the screw or TB, a new throttle body is <$100 on eBay, including the TPS and MAP sensor. Was convinced that that screw was Fubar and turned out the flat head was just as caked in some sort of hardened glue as the circumference of the screw was. Basically had to chisel it out of the threads and got it free. I was about to throw that TB in the trash and was pricing them out when I finally got it. Cleaned it up and down and reinstalled with a new gasket and I will be starting it up tomorrow to test. Got a few pics to share of it when I can get the camera connected to the laptop.
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Jul 12, 2016 03:42
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some texas redneck posted:Honda ECUs definitely aren't happy if the ECT isn't working properly. This. I'm more of a d series guy myself but very nice find for the area, I'm in CT so I know how rough finding clean Hondas can be.
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Jul 13, 2016 23:17
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AICV's are such a pain in the rear end, whatever you do don't ever clean one with TB cleaner or ever try to clean it at all because it will just gently caress it up. After "cleaning" mine on the Miata I had to got to the junk yard and get a filthy one to make the engine run normal again 
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Jul 14, 2016 03:51
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The Honda IACVs usually tolerate being cleaned, so long as you be careful with the o-rings. They swell up pretty bad if they get hit with some cleaners.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:58
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leica posted:AICV's are such a pain in the rear end, whatever you do don't ever clean one with TB cleaner or ever try to clean it at all because it will just gently caress it up. After "cleaning" mine on the Miata I had to got to the junk yard and get a filthy one to make the engine run normal again I've never had issues cleaning Jeep ones. Generally if you destroy the O-rings on some like STR said, or push or spin the pintle on most, you will chooch it all to hell, but if you just treat it gently and clean it with the appropriate solvent it works fine.
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Jul 14, 2016 15:43
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kastein posted:I've never had issues cleaning Jeep ones. Generally if you destroy the O-rings on some like STR said, or push or spin the pintle on most, you will chooch it all to hell, but if you just treat it gently and clean it with the appropriate solvent it works fine. Probably should have waited until after I adjusted the idle screw. I suppose it isn't super urgent since it doesn't stall it out anymore but I'll need to add that to the junkyard parts list. Newish drivers side mirror is on its way and the windshield is being replaced next week. I'm having a really tough time locating an oem green rear bumper, just found one person selling three bumpers one of which green for about 200 bucks on eBay. I don't really want an aftermarket one because they don't have the "integra" letters on the rear right.
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Jul 15, 2016 13:41
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kastein posted:I've never had issues cleaning Jeep ones. Generally if you destroy the O-rings on some like STR said, or push or spin the pintle on most, you will chooch it all to hell, but if you just treat it gently and clean it with the appropriate solvent it works fine. Maybe it's just the Mazda AICVs then. Supposedly there's some special grease on the "gear" inside of it that gets wiped out by solvents and once that happens it's hosed. Of coures I found that out after I soaked it with TB cleaner.
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Jul 16, 2016 06:26
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Have you figured out the idle/stalling issue? I'm really interested in this build. I got hurt so I can't really work on cars for a bit so I'll be living vicariously through you.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:13
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Sorry doogle I've been bad at updating this! Occasionally it does like to drop low but never kills the engine it looks like. I want to run some new gas through it before calling out my iacv as likely the culprit. It hasn't been on the road yet so it's hard to tell. I've done a bit of interior work and miscellaneous stuff: Replaced the drivers side mirror with a used one from eBay. Cleaned even more change out of the seat rails. Wiped down all the vinyl on the dash and the doors. So far tried to fix the drivers side power window with no success(grabbed a spare motor from the junkyard. Removed the entire center console and washed it in my utility sink(yuck). Fixed the shifter boot so it's snug up against the knob, had to do this one on my old one too. There's a plastic ring that always breaks and you just need to superglue it. Got a new passenger ohh poo poo handle from a guy that had a parts car, same color and tan interior but it was so rough that's all I could use from it :-(. New windshield and I just black chalked the sides of it, looks pretty good. I got a decent condition red 1994 bumper from the junkyard for pretty cheap. My neighbor does bodywork and he's going to sand it all down, fill it and paint it green for me. The 94-97 bumpers look a little different but I'm ok with it. Last night I ordered stock quick struts to do up the suspension and all of my brake parts. I thought long and hard about doing some upgraded springs but decided to keep it relatively stock since I haven't really gone aftermarket on anything else really. The quick struts were pretty inexpensive so I'll see what I'm getting into in about a week or so. Besides needing a drivers side axle I'm pretty close to being fully functional after that. I do need a radio but I think revving to 8 grand will be my sound track for a bit. I'll try to snap some pictures and upload them soon. If anyone on here sees a drivers side green exterior door handle I'm having a hard time finding a decent one. The passenger side I think I can superglue and fix.
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Aug 8, 2016 13:31
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On my phone so not sure how to embed. https://imgur.com/156rPqj https://imgur.com/uOupV7b https://i.imgur.com/QgiwpF3.jpg Forgot I need to swap the rear tail lights too with the set I got from the yard.
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Aug 8, 2016 21:44
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So a lot of parts have arrived, front and rear brake pads and rotors, and quick struts for all 4 corners. I went out and bought a new drivers side axle to replace the one with the broken boot: Car all jacked up on all four corners. Such a nice and light car to jack up.   Might seem crazy to those of you not in the northeast but this is incredibly rust free for its age.  Strut bar off an out of the way, one of the studs on the passenger side was replaced with a bolt at some point(sigh).  Broken axle boot and nasty oil pan:  Dropped the old strut:  Old axle from underneath:  Busted a nut off here, heh:  Half of the old axle here. I hate cv grease, it just gets everywhere. Bonus shot of Mr. Brassy:  New axle fitted. Spoiler alert, it doesn't stay for long:  New Strut, and loaded in:    And guess what??? The new loving axle is bent!  Had to take all of it apart again and will need to return it, and not buy a re-manufactured one I suppose too. I turned the wheel to inspect it and saw it literally move more than 1/4 of an inch off center from the main piece loaded into the output shaft. Removed it and seated it again and the same result. Threw back on the old on because at this point I was freaking out that my output shaft was hosed. The old one is spot on so I'm good there thankfully. Goddamn that's irritating.
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Aug 16, 2016 04:14
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Autozone axles? I've had a lot of problems with them, mainly getting ones that weren't rebuilt and have broken cv joints. Good thing I have a lifetime warrantied set!
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Aug 16, 2016 20:21
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doogle posted:Autozone axles? I've had a lot of problems with them, mainly getting ones that weren't rebuilt and have broken cv joints. Good thing I have a lifetime warrantied set! It was actually an advance rebuilt one. I ended up getting an autozone new one to replace it. We will see how it plays out this evening. koollook124 fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 16, 2016 23:14
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Will get some updates in here on my progress soon. My desire to photograph has been dwindling slightly. Lots of progress to report since I'm DRIVING IT TO WORK TODAY.
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Sep 2, 2016 18:29
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Update: I got a replacement axle that wasn't bent, buttoned the driver side front together and moved onto the passenger side.  Found that the boot was torn for the inner tie rod end and needed to be replaced:    And the new strut in place without much issue:  The rears get a little tricky to get the bolt connecting the LCA back into the hub, required a lot of jiggling and use of the jack.  Out with the old! Piles of new brakes in their boxes still on this one  On to the rear brakes, needed to drill out the screws as I was only able to manage to remove one of them. Basically drilled out most of the core of them then hammered on the back of the disc to pop them off.   New discs and pads loaded up:   And moved on to the front, this got interesting. Passenger side disc let go after one blast of PB and one hit from the brass hammer, the drivers side was not having it. Things got escalated, PB blaster was loaded into any recognizable orifice that could be seen and let sit for ample time(or so I thought). The sledge hammer was pressed into service but alone it could get the job done; lots of fire was added with the help of a crowbar and here we were.   You can see the smoke emitting from it in front of the jack stand in the picture, and ohh by the way it split it half!!! I have never in my life ever had so much trouble getting a disc off a car, it was remarkable to say the least. I was not going to be defeated.. I forgot to take any pictures of the front brakes sorted, shame on me. My neighbor was able to repaint(well enough) a red bumper at the yard and I swapped the rear tail lights because the drivers side was damaged slightly from when it got rear ended. Had to hammer out the dent a bit to fit the new light in, they are 94-97 lights which I like but most people prefer the later styles I think(bumper is old style too).   ^This picture makes my brass hammer look broken, assure you its fine ;-). And I put it on the road and gave it a wash because it runs(mostly)!!!! These are it's prettiest sides honestly,   Next update will be details on my troubleshooting to figure out my (still)idling issues and V-Tech(brah) issues.
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Sep 7, 2016 03:10
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You probably already know this, but order a replacement wheel bearing for the side with the broken rotor. After that much hammering there's no way the rollers/balls are going to last more than 5-10k miles, if that.
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Sep 7, 2016 18:01
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Very cool to see you progressing with this! Have you tried swapping the throttle body with a known good unit (with sealed idle screw)? It had always been explained to me that the idle screw was for extreme climate situations so often times if the screw seemed to fix any issues it was simply masking the actual fault. I run an F series throttle body on my SOHC purely because it was the only one I could find that hadn't had the screw tampered with and this did wonders for smoothing out my idle. Either way; looking good!
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Sep 7, 2016 20:29
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kastein posted:You probably already know this, but order a replacement wheel bearing for the side with the broken rotor. After that much hammering there's no way the rollers/balls are going to last more than 5-10k miles, if that. I will be planning on that and likely replacing ball joints as they may have been absorbing most of the energy which was making the removal so difficult. I've never had a good eye on when they need to be replaced so I may rely on the location I have my cars inspected normally.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:51
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