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From 2008 up until about 2 years ago, I worked in Australia in the mining exploration industry. I drove a lot of different models of Toyota Landcruiser, and did some cool stuff in them - for a while my job was basically 4wding and camping in remote parts of the Northern Territory and Queensland for weeks at a time - and I always wanted to own one. I grew up driving Toyota trucks - An LN86 Hilux doublecab and a KZN185 Surf - and until December last year was the proud owner of a temperamental, poorly treated KZN130 Surf, subject to much deferred maintenance. A friend had made the mistake of knocking up his ladyfriend, and towards the end of last year he was looking to get rid of his Landcruiser, to fund the purchase of a more "family friendly" vehicle. The price was right, and my poor abused Surf was being more problematic than usual, so I bought the Landcruiser - a 1985 BJ73 model. JDM used import to New Zealand, 3.4 n/a diesel, 278xxxk's on the (extremely obviously wound back) odo. Mid-length wheelbase, 2 front doors with folding back bench seat and removable FRP top. 5 speed H55F box. I flew up to the North Island just before Christmas to pick it up, co-incidentally the same day the baby arrived, 8 days early. Then commenced a 1500km ish road trip home to, then all over, the South Island during the Christmas period, in my incredibly retro new ride, complete with Aqua racing stripe on the side. Parked up at Lake Rotoiti on the 630km ish road trip home  at Lake Lyndon, inspecting a crested Grebe   Since then I've put about 5000k's on it, and done a bit of work here and there. It's a 1985 model in initially apparently good condition. The engine starts easily and doesn't blow smoke at all, although being a n/a 3.4 diesel, it's quite gutless on the highway/hills. The interior is in good condition, obviously having had seat covers etc most of its life. Tyres are 4x 31" Kumho MTs on 15" white steel rims badly rattlecanned black, 2x extremely worn Goodyear Wranglers on factory Landcruiser alloys, and some misc smaller tyre on a lovely steelie. It came with a factory Toyota PTO winch, housed in a giant "front porch" chrome monstrosity. This had to go, for both looks and my approach angle, so the chrome was all unbolted and the mounting brackets for most of it were chopped off with the angle grinder. I had a new front plate for the winch housing made up by a local engineering shop, and bought a nylon rope and Hawse fairlead. All this resulted in a much improved look & approach angle  The original winch mounting setup & roller fairlead  new, with Hawse fairlead & nylon rope - much less protrusion   I also bought a Safari Snorkel and had it installed at the same time as the winch housing modifications, as I was a little nervous about drilling into my panels. The winch housing is improved with this work but there is a lot of slop in a splined joint in the PTO driveshaft, and it still isn't quite what I want, so I am considering pulling the whole setup and selling it to partially fund a good electric winch and ARB bar. slop in driveshaft: http://youtu.be/cDxu2I8OUl4 The rear diff had a pretty major leak from the pinion seal so I pulled that and changed the seal, there's still a minor seep - possibly need a new pinion flange due to wear.   The chassis had a bit of moderately concerning rust in the front right wheel well, so I hit it with the wire brush to clean it up, slapped on some kill rust and sprayed it with rattlecan black zinc to stop it getting any worse.   Sometime in the first 1500 odd km's that I owned the truck, the rusty 31 year old exhaust blew through, just around the welds on the bracket under the drivers door. I've gone for a short term effective solution of aluminium can strips, hose clamps and exhaust cement, but will need a new exhaust to pass a WOF in June.  The rear wheel arches on these are a notorious rust spot, and mine were bare of any coating at all, so I spent a couple of hours cleaning, degreasing, kill rusting and spraying them with rubberised underbody coating. It's not the tidiest job but will do for now   Bought a hi lift jack holder for the spare wheel carrier also.  The stereo situation was pretty dated, with the original Toyota radio being disconnected but left in the dash, and a new CD player head unit installed.  I got a cheap FM transmitter to hook up the iPhone and pulled the old Toyota radio, replacing it with a cheap cupholder/storage tray combo  The interior light was incredibly, pathetically dim, and there's a guy that sells LED conversions for about 20 bucks, so I got one. and it's epic.   not shown: the white LED light is approx 1000 times brighter Last weekend I loaned the truck to a friend while his Hilux was inoperable (my fault) and got a call the next day saying "Is it always this hard to get into gear?" A half hour drive up to his house in my gf's car, and found that the clutch was gone. Topped it up and bled it, and it works alright - but upon inspection this weekend has clearly been leaking from the master cylinder through the clutch booster and through the firewall. The paint on the engine bay side of the firewall is slightly stripped around the clutch booster, and a lot of paint in the driver footwell/interior firewall is stripped, with some minor surface rust. Have a replacement master cylinder in stock ready to install, just waiting on a 10mm flare wrench and a blowtorch off the net to arrive, to aid in removing the clutch line nut: no more stripping or breaking stuck/rusty bolts for me, I've broken enough taking off the factory bashplates to get at the gearbox etc. Cleaned up and kill rusted the floor, not really sure whether it's worth painting again now to prevent further rust, or whether the brake fluid soaked into the under carpet felt will just strip it again.    While I was rolling in the dirt on the side of the road bleeding the clutch last weekend I also noticed that the passenger side door is quite badly rusted under the seal. Since the truck was immobile today - I'd gotten as far as draining the clutch fluid and pulling up the carpet before hitting a line nut that wouldn't budge with the tools I have - I decided I may as well get the door sorted. So spent the afternoon making space in the garage, then pushing the truck inside and stripping and removing the passenger door. It'll go to the local panel beaters tomorrow to have the rust cut out & patches welded in. It fits! Just. good thing I don't have any suspension lift yet.  one patch of rust on the front of the door, the bottom is also quite badly rotted out  ready to go  I've also spent a bit of time going over things trying to chase down mystery wires, which led me to removing the taillight clusters to find minor rust forming in the recess behind each. Cleaned and rust killed temporarily  The body has bits and pieces of minor rust and missing paint all over, and the rear right quarter panel appears to be made of a moderate percentage of bog  At least my fuel filler door is clean! (lock was sticking so pulled it apart and cleaned it all)  So, plans. This is my only vehicle at the moment and it's intended to be my daily driver as well as be used for hunting/4wd/road trips. I want to restore it to where it'll run for another 31 years. The current to-do list is: -Fix clutch. -Fix bad rust in passenger door. -New seals and weatherstripping for passenger door -Strip back and spot paint any obvious paint damage/rust to prevent it getting worse over the winter, then -Strip and repaint all panels in Toyota 416, dune beige, next summer -new 2.5" exhaust -New, all matching, non rusty/rattlecanned rims with correct offset and 33" tyres -Sell current mix of tyres and rims -Turbo! Bolt on kit ex USA -fix minor damage to FRP top, have painted -new seals for sliding windows in FRP top -fix gearbox/tfer case oil leak -remove broken bolts from captive nuts in chassis, paint and reinstall factory bashplates -find PTO blanking plate for t/fer case, remove PTO & whole winch assembly, sell -ARB front bar & decent 24v electric winch -build custom rear bar with tyre carrier to take the weight off the back door & add hi lift jacking points -new head unit - need iPhone plug, Bluetooth -new 4" speakers under the dash and find somewhere to install some extra speakers in the back -sort out mystery wiring -new leafs and shocks all round -fix rear window demister and wiper (non functional) -wire in a killswitch somewhere for security -clean up/rustproof/paint chassis -look at the aircon -lockers? Maybe. gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 07:31
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I'm getting about 12.5l/100km which is on par with my 1994 1KZTE Surf. In a 1985 brick. Actually I drive new Hiluxes for work generally, which have the new 1KD-TE (I think) in them. 3.0 TD, common rail, all that poo poo. Was driving a brand new one this week (125km on the odo when I grabbed the keys) and it got about the same mileage as the Cruiser over the 2 days I had it
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Apr 17, 2016 07:59
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Called my local Toyota dealership to order new window/door rubbers for the passenger door. Approx $700nz+ total if ordered through them, or $226US ($320nz) plus shipping if ordered online from the states, for genuine Toyota parts. Gotta find a good local parts supplier that isn't $rape. Might try get away without replacing the outer door weatherstripping for now since it's $119US (or $301nz if bought local) and it's not in terrible condition
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Apr 18, 2016 01:08
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Slavvy posted:Wait you called the toyota dealership expecting reasonable pricing for a 30 year old car? HAHAHAHAHAHA* It seemed like the logical first port of call for Toyota parts. Any suggestions for a cheaper source in NZ? Also got offered a mystery lift kit, springs and shocks for 175 bucks a corner by a guy with a parts truck. It's way cheaper than new EFS springs (6 hundo a pair) but not sure if I want to take a punt on mystery suspension this week 
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Apr 18, 2016 06:04
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Powershift posted:I was able to soften mine back up with silicon spray lube if the problem is that they hardened up. Cheers, that might work for the top window run. Door surround seal has a few little rips and whatnot but is mostly ok, inner and outer weatherstripping are stuffed though, have metal ribs inside them that are rusted badly
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Apr 18, 2016 06:09
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Looks like I'm buying from offshore and eating shipping to save 50% ish.
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Apr 18, 2016 09:30
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Yeah, it's the 3B with H55F. How's my transmission housing look? Uh, grubby. Has the usual oil leak and several years worth of gunk built up on the leakage... Gave it a blast with a pressure washer the other day, but really need to get it up on some ramps to get under there properly and get some degreaser on it
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Apr 18, 2016 19:06
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That's concerning! Coming from a non-salted-road country though hopefully mine isn't bad. Haven't really had a look. Can have a look at the fuel shutoff and take some photos if you want. Just found your thread and had a read, any progress on the old 40 Series?
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Apr 19, 2016 09:23
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Got home at 8pm from a work trip and my 10mm flare wrench had arrived so I whipped off the clutch master cylinder and clutch booster. Both rusty as hell and gunked up, booster pissing brake fluid from the vacuum tube...  Hopefully that doesn't cause problems further down the line in the vac system. Clutch booster vac tube runs to this mysterious object with a single other vac tube running to the vacuum pump, any ideas what it is??  Firewall paint has suffered mildly from leaking brake fluid. Suppose I ought to clean & repaint sooner rather than later  Am grabbing a used clutch booster from a guy with a parts truck, hopefully it works as they're unobtainium as a new or aftermarket part it seems gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 10:14
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Ferremit posted:Theeeeoretically a 1HZ will fit into those and get you another 30KW and a poo poo load of torque without a timbo system. Yeah they made a HZJ73 model too, they have the high pinion front diff KZJ73s look insanely rad, coil sprung Prado setup with the midlength/FRP top and the more modern front end but also appear to have been sold in Euro markets only? A 1HZ is an option in future maybe, can't afford it at the moment by a long shot. Should be straightforward enough though.
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Apr 19, 2016 10:28
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Fix Or Repair Daily Found On Road Dead Etc
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Apr 19, 2016 20:44
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Slavvy posted:That vacuum thing is just a vacuum reservoir so you can use the clutch without having to wait for the pump to build up vacuum every time you push the pedal. Sweet. I'm gonna pull it tonight and see how much brake fluid has built up in there, the clutch booster was frickin full of it so I assume the POs were just topping up the reservoir occasionally and not wondering why it needed topping up or where it was going
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Apr 19, 2016 22:38
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dissss posted:drat cool - you sure don't see many of those around any more, especially with the fibreglass top. Yeah it's crazy, but they *are* super good trucks I'm more keen on the 70 series myself rather than the 80s/100s, and you can get good 70 series trucks for around the 10 gorilla mark. Mine was 5000 but needs some love, I reckon I'll have 10-15 in it by the time I get everything I want sorted.
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Apr 23, 2016 01:34
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Got my door back on today. Waiting for new inner & outer window weatherstripping to arrive still but jammed the old ones in for now. Also missing some of the little plastic doodads to secure the outer door weather stripping, will find some this week. Rust repair looks tidy from the outside but there's still a bit of rot on the inside, will have to smash it with some kill rust and fish oil at some point. Gotta drive about 660km to Invercargill next weekend, been seconded there to a new job for the winter... so have to get the clutch sorted by then!! waiting for the booster to come in the post.  Fermented Tinal posted:
Here's the general fuel pump area. Haven't actually had a look to work out which bit is the shutoff & it's moderately buried at the bottom of the engine bay. I assume it's operated by a solenoid or vacuum?   CommieGIR posted:Engine photos! the mighty 3B 
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Apr 24, 2016 02:19
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My used clutch booster finally showed up in the post, a week late. It came with a newish looking AISIN master cylinder, as a bonus. Got it all cleaned up and installed, but couldn't get it to work - not enough length adjustment for the clevis, clutch pedal sat way too low. Also couldn't loosen the push rod to adjust it either, need a 1/4" head ratchet for my 7mm socket. So cleaned up the old booster, adjusted the push rod for the new master cylinder - the manual specifies a special tool, but I just press fit the cylinder against it and shortened the push rod until there was *just* a tiny fraction of pressure on it from the piston. Installed it, bled it with the "tube and brake fluid in a jar" method and it works for now, no actual boosting going on of course but I can drive again. Have to see if I can get more adjustment out of the new booster somehow to get more pedal height & actual boost. Or take the seals from it to rebuild the old booster. Nice to have a spare master cylinder though. Old on top, new on the bottom.  
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Apr 28, 2016 03:53
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Found a mystery vacuum line with a hole in it so replaced it. Assume it's the fuel shutoff or something, although that, and everything else, seemed to work fine  
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Apr 29, 2016 07:47
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Makes sense. Could be why I never noticed it since my aircon doesn't work yet. My lovely service manual doesn't have any vacuum diagrams
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Apr 29, 2016 11:22
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Did 689km last weekend with zero problems. Got 11.4L/100km with my mud tires on steel rims, doing 95-105km ish the whole way, highway miles with a fairly heavily loaded truck. Discovered the odo is 8% out by running gps the whole way. Hoping to get a new exhaust next week and tossing up getting headers at the same time for a fraction more power
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May 6, 2016 08:10
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I've got 4.11 diffs and a 5 speed H55F The engine struggles to pull it along in 5th on anything but flat or nearly flat ground. A little more power would be nice. That said it does get me around just fine. I haven't got any plans to re gear. The low gears are super low so when I change to 33s it should still be ok Looking at 33x10.5x15 km2s, they only weigh 2kg more than 31x10.5x15, will get alloy wheels at the same time to replace my steelies so my rotating mass on the wheels should actually decrease probably, rolling resistance of a 33x10.5 should be similar to a 31x10.5 I think? gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 21:48
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Ferremit posted:11.4L/100 is better than mine! It averages about 13.5 on the muddies! But it does make probably 4x the power of yours for that extra 2L/100 I get about 12.5 when doing mixed town/highway Did you notice any loss in the low end with extractors? 2" pipe would be better for the low end than the 2.5" I was looking at I guess
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May 6, 2016 21:52
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A turbo is on the cards at some point but the sheer cost of the kit, certification, and insurance implications means it's way out of my budget at the moment (almost more than I paid for the truck) Almost better off selling, and then buying a BJ74 with the factory 13BT instead
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May 6, 2016 23:49
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New Zealand. Has to pass a Warrant Of Fitness (roadworthy) every 6 months, 200 dollar fine if you get caught without one. Has to be certified by an inspector as safe if I add an aftermarket turbo, that costs somewhere in the $hundreds range depending on whether they decide it's safe or not The turbo kit I'm keen on is $2400US = $3500Nz + shipping + import tax...
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May 6, 2016 23:54
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InitialDave posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap in a later turbo diesel engine? Do you need to certify if using stuff Toyota themselves put on one? I could get my hands on a whole 13BT for less than the cost of an aftermarket turbo kit for my 3B, but would need cert despite the BJ74 being exactly the same chassis/body/etc as my BJ73, but with the turbo engine from factory. It's kinda dumb
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May 7, 2016 04:12
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dissss posted:While it is true that a turbo change requires a cert it is definitely something you can get away with going without on a vehicle like that (at least as far as warrants go) my plan is to just do stuff when I have the free money and worry about cert if it comes up at a WOF. but technically since I have 31" tyres currently and it was 29" from factory I should have cert for that. It seems like you can get away with bigger tyres pretty easily
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May 7, 2016 04:14
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Technically my (lack of) bumper is factory, just some parts taken off... It's going to be replaced with an ARB bar at some point when I find the cash. Just having a tight month or 2 $-wise which is screwing with my plans. Paying 2x rents due to working in a different city for the winter kinda sucks, but beats not working at all which was a potential situation for June/July Got an iPhone app that records 0-100k and quarter mile times and did a few test runs on the highway today on the way to visit a mate... 22.5+- .5 sec average 1/4 mile time. Be interesting to see how that changes with tyres, exhaust, turbo (eventually) etc.
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May 8, 2016 04:31
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1/4 mile time is of course insanely irrelevant for a landcruiser but it seemed like the easiest way to establish some kind of baseline short of the butt dyno
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May 8, 2016 04:42
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As long as it's consistently high I guess I'll see if I get an improvement
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May 8, 2016 05:14
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Well I've been investigating the option of a turbo and it's looking reasonably simple except for the placement of my stupid clutch booster, but I've bought a new master cylinder that doesn't use the booster to try get rid of that since it doesn't work anyway. So a turbo is possibly in the works in the next few months. Also loving partsouq and amayama... E: junkyard turbo setup with a Garret T25 probably gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 22:59
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Yeah, I'd only swap it out for a 13BT or 1HZ. I like the notorious reliability of the B.
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May 17, 2016 01:31
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Got a new exhaust fitted today. It's cut off the old one a couple feet down from the manifold then 2.5" pipe with a free flowing muffler. Sounds about the same but no holes. Sets me up nicely to replace the bit of original pipe at the top in the future when I get the turbo on. It's pretty rough but it gets me legal to pass a WOF in 2 weeks Also got some rad alloy rims for $191 for 4 on trademe, 15x7 with -13 offset. Pulled off one of my current (15x7, ??offset) steelies and these have maybe 3-7mm less offset (it's hard to measure) so I think they'll fit fine, I have heaps of clearance around everything at the moment. Might get some 5mm spacers or something. Going to get my tyres swapped over onto the new rims this weekend 
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May 24, 2016 06:53
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Fermented Tinal posted:Also, how is your fuel-shutoff setup? Since my 3B was taken from a 70 and dropped into a 45, I have a shutoff cable I have to pull on, but it doesn't reset. I've never actually seen what it is supposed to look like because I doubt zip-ties and blobs of weld are what Toyota did. So it seems I have the much less common rotary injector pump rather than inline which is why my pump looks totally different to everyone else's and all the stuff in my workshop manual. So my shutoff is different to yours
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May 24, 2016 07:41
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Had been having some starting issues on cold mornings, running rough with really high oil pressure and missing on one cylinder, also idling low. Changed engine oil and filter, air filter and adjusted the idle. With that and the new exhaust it seems noticeably better to drive. Idles much happier at 600 rpm than 300 too Also got carried away and wiped a bunch of stuck on gunk off my valve cover, injector pump etc on the grounds that I'll be able to see any leaks better (actually I just wanted a clean engine). Really need to get some spray degreaser in there
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May 27, 2016 07:06
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May 28, 2016 05:31
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Glow plugs were replaced not long before I got it, I think it was the very low idle, since it's firing up nicely now? Might replace the plugs anyway I guess since it's cheap enough to do.
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May 28, 2016 21:36
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Drove into Macetown today. It's an old Goldmining ghost town in behind Queenstown. 15km track, with 20some river crossings. Nothing serious today with the river pretty low, just some slightly greasy spots with the rain/snow     
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May 29, 2016 01:59
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And then my brakes went.... They've been playing up a bit for a while, the handbrake indicator light occasionally flashes on when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake. Figured it was just pad wear or something as they still worked fine. Basically gone all of a sudden now though... Checked the front pads and they have heaps of meat on them, rotors look good, rear drums are semi-working when I try drive off with the handbrake engaged, Toyota handbrakes are always crap anyway so they seem about as functional as you'd expect, leading me to the hydraulic system. Fluid reservoir hasn't lost anything over the last 6 months. My checklist when I get home is: -check rear drums/shoes -bleed lines -master cylinder (would be losing fluid if this was the problem, surely?) -booster function? -vacuum pump function? -wheel cylinders? (Surely would pull to one side etc if this was the issue?) Any other thoughts? gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 02:35 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 02:07
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I had basically nothing, then function returned but not complete function. Vacuum system is probably full of brake fluid from my previously chronically leaking clutch master/booster situation, but following the steps in my workshop manual the booster appears to be functioning fine, so I can cross that off. When it stops raining I'll get someone to help me bleed it all and see if that helps E: Vacuum pump is pulling some vacuum, as diagnosed by pulling a vac hose and putting my thumb over the end. Doesn't feel super strong but I have no frame of reference. gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 05:02 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 03:57
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The Fix
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May 30, 2016 06:49
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Yeah, I want to flush the brakes at some point in the near future. The problem was vacuum leaking through the busted clutch booster, simply pulled the hose feeding it vacuum and capped the reservoir and the brakes are as good as they've ever been (not amazing).
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May 30, 2016 22:08
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It's entirely possible that the precups are cracked since that seems like A Thing with the 3B She fires up ok now though https://youtu.be/rxzJCQ9pBj8 gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 23:18
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