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I wish you the best of luck if you do a full swivel hub rebuild. I just did one on my housemates HDJ105 last weekend (long story, had to replace the entire axle housing and fit a fully rebuilt diff centre after he drove like a knob and shattered the diff, bent the tie rod, dented the sump and bent the axle housing in one go) and we blew through about half a 10kg bag of rags, befouled about 30L of Jet A1 in the parts washer, went through what felt like half a box of nitrile gloves and used pretty much half a 2.5KG tub of moly grease and about half a tub of wheel bearing grease to do the whole thing. Hopefully 73 series axles are smaller than 105 series axles are..
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Jun 21, 2017 13:30
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Slavvy posted:How did you manage to use so few rags?? one side had a failed inner axle seal and the resulting slime just... fell... out into a drip tray. gimpsuitjones posted:
He had the aftermarket gasket for the diff 3rd member fail and he pulled the centre to fix it. In the process crushing the air tube to the locker so it wouldnt work. Then he went to the high country and tried to keep up with his mates with twin locked trucks, hit a hill really hard, got air, landed hard, shattered everything.
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Jun 23, 2017 11:45
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If you've never driven anything with a locked front diff, it's got a massive impact on your handling and a tight LSD would have a similar effect. Locking both front and rear diff in my 100 series makes it go from a 11.8m turning circle to about 45m turning circle. Get a real locker. If your wanting to save money you could get away with an auto locker in the rear but I would 100% want a selectable in the front so you can turn it on and off on tight tracks. I've got twin ARB air lockers tho so I'm biased!
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Aug 28, 2017 01:59
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gimpsuitjones posted:Bearing was loose and ugly, full of water. I guess I didn’t snug it up tight enough last time. Spindle looks a bit ugly, I’m going to order a new one but chuck a new bearing in for now to get me on the road again That spindle is fine. Looks no worse than the half million km old ones in my Hilux, and that had hypersaline coorong water sit in it for 3+ months. Just polish up the seal surface at the very back with some fine emery paper.
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Dec 30, 2017 00:54
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As long as it doesnt have a groove on the seal surface (but you can always throw a speedy sleeve on it if it does) and the bearings fit snugly on their journals without too much slop then everything between those three critical areas and the threads are still nice and clean your golden. Toyota hasnt changed that front bearing design from your truck to the 200 series, and they use the same system on the smaller 4wd's like the prado and hilux. We helped a bloke out at Dalhousie springs that had the outer bearing on his 100 series poo poo the bed so badly that it popped the CV out the back of the spindle and welded the retainer nuts onto the spindle threads (had to be hacked off in small pieces!) and when we put new bearings on it, they still fitted perfectly!
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Dec 31, 2017 06:55
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The old 2.8D hiluxes did too. Except they were mounted sideways. Directly over the front diff. So every 5000kms you had an exxon valdez reenactment in your shed.
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Jan 20, 2018 04:51
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Yeah injectors on NA diesels just tend to make smoke when they die, not really make a massive performance hit. Just means you need some forced induction on that big girl.
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Feb 4, 2018 21:51
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If you can swing the cost, genuine parts are soooo worth the effort. We turbo’d a 1hz using a turbo from a 1HD-FTE and the factory turbo manifold off a 1HD-T and it made it a bolt on affair for hanging the turbo. Wasn’t hideously expensive for the manifold either, compared to the cost of making one from scratch. We used the water lines and oil feed from a 1HD-T as well and just tapped into the supply on the motor when needed. The 1HZ ended up exploding from being turbo’d.... but it looked absolutely factory and was a breeze to work on!
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Feb 4, 2018 22:31
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Yeah, the 1HD motors are drilled in the block for an oil feed and have an oil return in the crank girdle, so we ran some AN line around the back of the block from the oil pressure sensor port and drilled and welded a return into the sump for the drain, then used the factory oil pipe to fit up to the turbo and just cut the banjo fitting off and welded on an AN fitting to connect up the supply. Amayama still lists an exhaust manifold for a 13BT as available both ex japan and Australia, but AU$350 + shipping from Japan
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Feb 4, 2018 23:00
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Engel make a 15, 21 and 32L model too... and they will run on 12, 24 and 240v. http://www.engelaustralia.com.au/products_category.asp?pid=11
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Feb 9, 2018 13:14
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One thing I certainly dont miss bout going from my solid axle Hilux to my IFS landcruiser is those loving knuckle bearings. Its awesome when you accidentally ding the inner axle seal and then 10K kms later the whole knuckle is full of diff oil and the grease/oil mix is pouring out around the knuckle seals and dripping on the tyre....
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Feb 15, 2018 12:32
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The 100/105 guys here aren’t getting the greatest run of luck out of the e-lockers, broken parts, poo poo service, failures that just shouldn’t happen... ARB are flogging their air lockers for au$990 an end now, plus fitting. I think I paid bout $2600 for both lockers in the cruiser fitted to diffs, tho I pulled and reinstalled the diffs myself. They also make a cheap baby compressor purely for locker activation too.
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May 19, 2018 12:46
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Also... will a 13-BT drop in on your model? Might be the easier way to turbo it without pushing the poor little 3B too hard
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May 23, 2018 02:35
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Part of me wants to stick the 100 on a boat and ship it over there and spend 6 months exploring the South Island, but the other part of me realises that by the time I clean the car enough to meet quarantine on each side of the ditch I may as well just buy a 4wd in NZ and sell it again afterwards
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Jun 26, 2018 13:16
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Anphear posted:The steam cleaner at port only costs $125 an hour. So budget wisely. AQIS are absolutely ANAL about anything coming into the country. Dad stepped on a port jackson fig flying home from NZ to australia and customs took his shoes off him. You just about have to dismantle the drat car to prove to them that its soil and plant material free.
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Jun 28, 2018 08:44
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Slavvy posted:I don't believe that's true as thousands of cars get imported here every day and the only time they get taken apart is when they're inspected for roadworthiness long after they've left port of entry. Getting it into NZ wouldn’t be the hard bit. Getting it home in Australia is. AQIS are the guys who will arrest you over a banana.
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Jun 29, 2018 14:24
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I still need that Hilux!!!!
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Aug 24, 2018 10:33
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gimpsuitjones posted:A whole LN106 is just about cheaper than a 1HD-FTE from a wreckers, right? A house is just about cheaper than an FTE from a wrecker....
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Aug 25, 2018 09:34
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Well.... 1KZ-TE's fit in those things like a glove- just gotta move the engine mounts on the chassis forward 60mm, but you'd probably weld them on better than Toyota did originally anyway if you do move them... Tho since the 2L-TE and 3L basically share blocks and heads, and are just bored and stroked, you CAN steal all the turbo stuff off a rusted out 2L-TE surf and bolt it straight onto the 3L motor. I think you have to swap two head studs in the head to make it work, but the holes are already there so its just a case of running a tap down the holes to clean the threads out and then using two nuts to move the studs over. the 1KZ is the more fun option tho. Nothing quite like turning the inside rear tyre into a cloud of smoke in 3rd gear at 1400rpm going around tight corners! If you are thinking bout sticking 33's under it, Im pretty sure Ive got a snake racing 2" body lift kit and the bolts for it kicking around SOMEWHERE in dads shed?
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Aug 26, 2018 00:58
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143K? Yeah, that’s actually “open front and rear diffs”. Toyota can’t make a LSD to save their life. It was hosed the moment the first owner turned out of the dealership. Those LN106’s are HILARIOUSLY/TERRIFYINGLY quick with a 1KZ under the hood and 4.5 diffs on 265/75R16’s. Certainly do not have the brakes to match the engine! Looks pretty sweet. I couldn’t go back to a single cab- I like to actually recline my seats now! Correction- maybe a single cab 70 series...
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Sep 9, 2018 00:40
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If its those little fins on the calipers, they can be massaged away with a flap wheel on a grinder. Was the only way to get 16" rims onto a 120 series prado IIRC.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:36
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Back in the day the big thing for 106’s was a rear up front spring swap using rear springs from the later 167 series. I never investigated it really cos I just fitted old man emu leafs and shocks and then fixed any inadequacy in flex with air lockers. If your pulling the front end apart too cross over steering is well worth the effort. Gets rid of the stupid setup they currently have.
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Sep 22, 2018 23:19
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 08:10 |
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You Am I posted:Hey Brah does your Hilux flex? Hahaha no https://youtu.be/-DXSdwUUgEk https://youtu.be/V_GOkend9A8
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Sep 24, 2018 03:41
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