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You know that car in your neighborhood you walk past all the time? The one that makes you think, "poo poo, that's cool, but they never drive the drat thing. Wonder if they'll sell it..." I just bought that car.  It's a 1982 Datsun 280ZX. Naturally aspirated, not turbo. This thing was sitting three houses down from me ever since I moved to Albuquerque last summer. Every time I walked the dog, I'd see it and think about how much I like the Z-cars.  Last weekend, they had a garage sale. I picked up a radio, "This will be all for me, unless that car's for sale." Turns out it was. $500 and I rolled it home tonight.  So what's the deal with it? They parked it 10 years ago. According to the owner, it wasn't getting fuel from the gas tank; the guy said he could feed a little gas in directly and get it to run a bit (it's fuel-injected, so maybe he put it in the air intake? I don't know fuel injection (yet)). He also said it would sometimes pop out of reverse. It sat facing west for all 10 years. This means the front seats are turbofucked:  Completely faded. The rear view mirror plastic also crumbled in the sun:  And the upper parts of the door panels didn't fare so well:  But the rest of the interior is actually in pretty good shape:   Lap timer!  Ridiculously sick radio:  The biggest thing it's got going for it? Pretty much no rust. There's a few bits below the windshield, and a very small bubble on the right rear wheelwell. As far as I can tell, that's it. Albuquerque is an extremely dry climate, and with this thing sitting out in the sun (no trees or anything) there's been scant opportunity for water to hang around--it was even sitting on mostly bare ground, rather than tall grass. The engine bay seems to be in pretty good condition, except for some vacuum hoses that look to have been either broken or cut for whatever reason.   Finally, it came with two tapes that I consider extremely pro listening; these will go in the deck as soon as I install a new battery.  A friend from work has been egging me on every step of the way, helped me push it home tonight, and will be helping me as we work through the checklist of poo poo to do. Our first goal is to get the engine turning, then put in a battery and do a compression test, then try to get it running.
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May 12, 2016 03:49
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:33 |
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Today's accomplishments:
The MMO in the cylinders is in preparation for trying to turn the crankshaft with a breaker bar. I've got a good feeling about this engine; the spark plugs came out dark but dry, the engine bay itself looks pretty clean all things considered, I'm hoping for the best. Once we get the engine turning over manually, I'm going to go buy a battery and try cranking it, then do a compression test.
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May 12, 2016 03:55
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Nitramster posted:I wish you God speed you crazy bastard! I had a 77 280 and I couldn't get the drat thing to ever pass smog (but I'm in California) So as of January 2017 this vehicle will not need to be emissions tested in the state of New Mexico. I'm kinda thinking about not even bothering to register it until then, just keep fettling it and driving up and down the street in front of my house. Otherwise, if you fail an emissions test and get a shop quote for over $300 repairs, they'll give you a 1 year temporary registration... and provided there aren't any weird conditions attached to that registration, after a year it would be past the rolling 35 year cutoff. As for the interior, it'll come down to either reupholstering it or finding some decent junkyard seats, I guess. These are not particularly valuable cars, however cool I think they are, so I'm not planning to put $1000 racing seats in or anything like that. Jonny 290 posted:I'm so incredibly bonerfied about this. I love straight six engines so much. Pretty much as soon as I lifted that (awesome-looking) hood, I was decided.
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May 12, 2016 04:04
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some texas redneck posted:Isn't Albuquerque metro the only part of NM that does emissions? Yeah, my other option is to find someone outside the city who will register it. I know a goon in Rio Rancho, actually...
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May 12, 2016 04:16
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We pulled up the trim in the back and had a look last night, I guess I don't remember looking right under the taillights but here's the pictures we took: 
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May 12, 2016 14:39
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When I got home from work, I put it in 4th gear and pushed from behind. The car rolled a bit, Marvel Mystery Oil oozed out of the spark plug holes, and the belts moved so I'm considering it a success: engine is not seized. Next step: buy a battery and try to crank it. If that works, do a compression test.
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May 13, 2016 00:52
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Slavvy posted:If you disable the fuel pump and just crank it to determine oil pressure and compression, the 10 year old poo poo will be fine. Definitely change it before starting it though, no sense in bruising what might be a perfectly good engine. This was my plan, I figure it probably won't hurt it to run the old oil for a few cranks with the plugs out while I test compression. I'll have to figure out how to disable the fuel pump, find the appropriate wires to disconnect I guess.
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May 13, 2016 02:04
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Slavvy posted:TBH it might be a good idea to disable spark, leave the pump hooked up but have the inlet hose pointing into a bottle while you crank. This'll let you get an idea of the condition of the fuel and will stop any garbage that made it past the filter hitting your injectors when you do eventually start it. I've been intending to remove the fuel tank and clean it after doing the compression test but before trying to start the car--I figured there was no way 10 year old gas should go anywhere near my engine. Maybe clean the tank, reinstall it, put some gas in, and then try pumping the inlet hose into a bottle to clean out any poo poo left in the line? Where's the fuel pump on this thing, anyway? I kinda wanted to get a compression test before I buy a Haynes manual.
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May 13, 2016 03:03
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Found one essential accessory for this euphoria-inducing Z-car: http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Awesome-Plaid-Binder-Pants/dp/B00J1J7HZW 
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May 13, 2016 18:14
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I took off the rearview mirror and pulled away all the crumbly plastic parts before re-attaching it. Then I got out the shop vac and vacuumed up the tiny little bits of plastic that had gone all over the front seats and floor. That poo poo was so wrecked by the sun you couldn't even pick up the pieces, they'd turn to dust when you applied any pressure!
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May 15, 2016 00:15
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Whoever made the glue that attaches that thing to the windshield deserves a medal. It's actually attached via 3 screws just above the windshield, so I pulled the screws, took the whole assembly out of the car, and crushed the plastic over a trash can.
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May 15, 2016 03:48
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Anyone who can help me figure out how to get this drat gas cap off will be forever my friend. It looks like this: And apparently the underside:  If I turn the key to unlock, the cap will just happily spin counterclockwise forever, clicking gently once or twice a revolution.
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May 20, 2016 19:34
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trouser chili posted:Drill bits, anger, and alcohol. That's the backup plan. Do you just drill straight into the keyhole? Once the lock is drilled out, can the gas cap still function as a non-locking gas cap or do I need to hit up Rockauto? (which has let me down before, when I ordered a Stant gas cap for my Studebaker and it didn't fit at all)
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May 20, 2016 20:17
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New battery acquired.
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May 20, 2016 23:39
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I bought a new battery on the way home from work. Also picked up my friend's tiny little air compressor to blow away spiders. When I hooked up the battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xktiHIfYR-M Turns out disabling the fuel pump is really easy--there's a big connector under the carpet inside, you just unplug it. After disabling the fuel pump and the spark, I did a compression test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Kh6tgp3iJQ All cylinders were over 140 (the 120 in the video was just because I didn't crank long enough, last test I did was a little 4 cylinder that went faster) Next up, I think I'll drill out the fuel cap (unless my friend can figure out how to get it off), then see about draining the fuel tank. I printed out the pages of the manual related to that and it seems quite easy. At the very least I'd like to remove the "fuel tank gauge unit" (see http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/fe.pdf) and make sure the filter's clean etc., try to siphon out the old gas. I ordered distributor cap & rotor and an oil filter, which arrived today, plus 5 quarts of oil and a spark plug kit, which should arrive tomorrow. Plugs are cheaper at Autozone so I'll just pick some up there.
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May 21, 2016 02:42
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Jonny 290 posted:i have advance tidings that the record player has been reported as working It's true! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-megleuUHFY
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May 21, 2016 03:12
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Fuel pump status: she's chooched, boys. 12v at the harness connector, but pump doesn't pump. We pulled it off, set it in a bucket for closer observation, and reconnected it, not a sound. At least they're not too expensive.
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May 21, 2016 15:23
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We removed the fuel pump last night. This afternoon I walked out to find a nice present under the car: The line between the tank and the fuel pump had either siphoned fuel out, or just allowed it to flow as the day heated up. I disconnected the hose at the tank side this time and hopefully no more comes out. Just realized I should probably crack the hatch open until we pull the tank lest we fill the car with stanky gas fumes. In better news, it took basically no drilling at all to get the cap off:  Locking gas caps: good protection against gas theft unless your adversary has a cordless drill and an extra 10 seconds. The cap seems to work just fine now.
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May 21, 2016 23:21
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We dropped the fuel tank and drained the nasty old gas. Something plastic on the end of the fuel return line dissolved into crumbly crud, but there are partitions in the gas tank that have it segregated from the pickup filter. Otherwise the tank is very clean. Trying to figure out how to get that poo poo out through the smallish access hole on top.
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May 22, 2016 02:37
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Slavvy posted:Got an air compressor? After looking more we found it filling the return tube and the bottom of the intake filter. My friend suspects dirty gas, we think this may be what killed the fuel pump. I'm a little worried at the return being full of gunk... Where did it come from? Pics coming soon. Edit: this is the very bottom of the fuel return line in the tank. We had to cut the last 1/2 inch off in order to clean out the rest. A bunch of gunk like this was piled up below it on the bottom of the tank but we scooped it out. It's sort of a soft, sticky, gooey substance, softens/dissolves in throttle body cleaner.  And here's the fuel intake filter. It has a thick layer of the same poo poo at the bottom.  We're going to be double careful about checking the rest of the fuel system, and will put fresh rubber fuel line throughout. I'm going to try and find a replacement for that intake screen, if I can't find one I guess I'll just put an inline filter just before the fuel pump. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 05:38 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 05:14
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I ran out and took a quick check at the fuel hardlines on the engine end. No sign of gunk when I ran a pipe cleaner into these: So I have high hopes that the clogging is limited to the tank end. Next time my friend's over, we'll blast air through and try to feel it at the other end, and spray throttle body cleaner down the lines to try and clean poo poo up a little. Now, a question. The diagram above shows lines 18, 17, and 16. It labels them as such:
Now, it seems to me that 17 and 18 are switched--evapo tube goes to the vapor canister, return tube comes back from the EFI system. Simple mis-labeling, or am I fundamentally mis-understanding the entire fuel system? (Diagram source: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/fe.pdf)
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May 22, 2016 18:16
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slidebite posted:Replace every fluid and rubber line/hose in that car. Fuel, vacuum, brakes. After you change the oil & filter and fuel filter, do the filters again a week later. Remember standard old school brake fluid is hygroscopic so there is a real chance the steel tubing used in the lines need to be done too. My able assistant asked why I was buying the cheapest possible 10W30 oil, I told him I planned to do exactly that. As for rubber lines, my plan is to grab representative samples of each size of hose, note down approximately how many feet I'll need, and head to O'Reilly to match up replacements. After this gunky tank nonsense I'm planning on putting a fuel filter before the fuel pump as well. How do I check the steel brake tubing for goodness? At some point I'll also need to figure out why the clutch pedal stays on the floor when you push it down. There's fluid in the master cylinder, but I haven't gone poking around to find the return spring. Goddamn the manuals on nicoclub are handy, though: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/cl.pdf
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May 22, 2016 18:23
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Are all fuel check valves equivalent, hose diameters aside? Really hoping the fuel pressure regulator and the damper are ok. I can't find the damper in stock anywhere, and the pressure regulator is $63 on Rockauto. Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982. 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 21:14
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Big pile of fuel lines I pulled out: Tank -> fuel pump, fuel pump -> hard line, hard line -> fuel filter, fuel filter -> manifold. Manifold return -> hard line, hard line -> tank Vapor canister hardline -> fuel filter -> hardline, hardline -> gas tank Filler tube vent -> gas tank. loving hell. Gonna go plop this all on the O'Reilly countertop tomorrow and ask for some matching replacements. Fake edit: gotta remember to check out that fuel check valve (small black cylinder with white ring around it near bottom left) and the fuel damper (dirty thing just below the fuel filter) to see if they're hosed or not. I'm hoping not because I'm not sure where to source replacements.
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May 25, 2016 02:53
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some texas redneck posted:Showa 56 would be actually 1981. Source. poo poo, my math was off. By the way, no sign of that nasty gunky poo poo anywhere else in the fuel system.
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May 25, 2016 04:56
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slidebite posted:Don't do that for all sorts of reasons. Just size it yourself and buy a big enough roll and bunch of hose clamps. I need a couple feet each of at least 3 different sized hoses. I'm also trying to figure out why the lines at the rear have that mesh outer coating... is it to prevent the line from breaking if a rock gets kicked up? I'll probably buy a roll of vacuum line, though, since it seems to be the same size in most places. Edit: a roll of vacuum line to replace vacuum lines, not fuel lines, c'mon people. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 17:12 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 17:07
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rscott posted:Vacuum line is not rated to carry fuel so unless your goal is to die in a firey wreck u recommend against that No, no, that's not what I meant. I meant that I also need to replace vacuum lines, and all the vacuum lines seem to be the same size, so I'll just buy a whole roll for that task. Not using vacuum line for fuel.
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May 25, 2016 17:12
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There's a check valve on the return line. Is this strictly necessary? I can't find a replacement, and if the existing one has gone bad it seems like it would be better to go without rather than use a broken valve that e.g. blocks all flow.
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May 28, 2016 22:05
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Nubile Hillock posted:You could probably just replace it with any fuel check valve of the same inlet/outlet diameter. I tested it by blowing through both sides... Air flows in one direction only. Seems like it still works.
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May 30, 2016 03:55
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Update: I've been in Italy for the last week+ so nothing has been happening. I return soon and progress will resume.
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Jun 14, 2016 14:19
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Shampoo posted:I love Italy because the whole drat country feels like it should fall apart, but it never does. Driving in Italy is the same way. It shouldn't work, there should be accidents everywhere, nobody will stay in a lane, but somehow it all just works.
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Jun 16, 2016 17:37
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ironblock posted:Yesssss. I am watching this thread with great interest. Nice... Could use a rearview mirror for reasons the first post should make abundantly clear 
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Jun 18, 2016 13:56
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Pissssssss: Pictured: my new fuel pump, and the new fuel line coming from my gas tank. With the filter, I haven't been able to get it to connect without bending the fuel line so much that I'd be worried about flow or eventual breakage. Do they make 90 degree fuel filters for cars? I've already moved the fuel pump as far to the side in the bracket as I feel comfortable. The curved shield thingy is removable, and in fact I was wondering why it's even there since it's not angled correctly to protect the fuel line from rocks flying up or anything... if I remove it, I might be able to get enough gentle curve to hook it all up. As you can see I've already trimmed away most of the fuel-pump side of the line in an attempt to make it work.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:32
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slidebite posted:Assuming that's the discharge side don't be stuck on putting it there, you can put it anywhere. Also, if that's the discharge side is it rated for enough pressure and do you want a plastic body filter that close to the rear wheels? Is it exposed to any debris there? It's the pickup side, there's another filter (pressure rated) way up by the engine. The problem is I had to discard the filter on the in-tank intake (see pictures up thread) so I want to put something here to avoid ruining my fuel pump. Edit: as for debris, I thought I'd wire / zip-tie some mesh around the area to protect it.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:52
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slidebite posted:It looks like that pump has a threaded barb fitting on it. Put an elbow there. I think in order to get it connected with a 90 on the pump, I'll need to remove that little shield thing, to get the fuel filter far enough back to make the connection.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:05
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I hit up the biggest Napa in town and they didn't have a right angle filter or a 90 degree fitting for the pump, so I decided gently caress it, I'll just make a loop to get it connected. Bought another foot of fuel line and a steel filter. I'd like to do something cleaner eventually but right now I just want the fucker running. The tank is pretty clean but not perfect, so I expect I may have to change the filter in a while anyway.
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Jun 25, 2016 20:20
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IT RAN! I finished up the fuel system and put in two gallons of gas. Then I replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. It started on the first try. I then shut it off immediately because I haven't changed the oil or coolant yet... The existing oil seemed oily enough to run for a few seconds though so I took a chance. Really drat excited. Next up: fluids, vacuum lines, tires. Needs new shocks at some point but I want to just get it the 3 miles to my new house first.
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Jun 25, 2016 22:35
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQGBvWpZdE8 That's post-oil change. I think the next thing to fix is the clutch. It doesn't return when pressed, it just stays on the floor. If I pull it up by hand, it will stay. slidebite, any thoughts? Do I need to bleed it? I thought if there was air in the line, it would be really hard to press the pedal, not really easy. I checked and both springs seem to be in place. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/cl.pdf
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Jun 26, 2016 20:53
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I'm seeing slave and master cylinders for under $20 each on Amazon. Any reason not to buy these or something like it? https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-072-1191-Clutch-Cylinder/dp/B000CAVUR0/ https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-CM39275-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/dp/B001PYG2D4/
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Jun 26, 2016 23:16
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:33 |
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I checked both of those and they're on rockauto too, so I went ahead and got them from Amazon so I get 2-day shipping.
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Jun 26, 2016 23:22
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