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Disc brakes?!
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Aug 15, 2016 01:09
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Nice, does the other side need doing too? I remember there was a little fluid both sides. If you get a moment to measure up the hob/sink unit (just the metal bit) I suppose I'd better have another go at the interior, if it goes and stops you'll be wanting to get cracking soon!
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Aug 15, 2016 06:21
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meltie posted:Disc brakes?! I have a set of 110 calipers for if I get round to putting discs on mine, with the Heystee kit that comes with new swivels to take LR factory parts. But I don't think they're compatible with the 101 (I'm sure they'd make one that was if you have  ).
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Aug 15, 2016 21:37
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meltie posted:Disc brakes?! Yep! Like Dave said, its the Zeus kit. It cost me far too much money but should actually make it stop! (Ive done about 20 miles with them since fitting and all of that with a hosed master cylinder but they were still better than the drums) Cakefool posted:Nice, does the other side need doing too? I remember there was a little fluid both sides. Yep, other side needs doing too. Got all the stuff. hoping to get the truck turned round first though to make it more pleasant. Still trying to work out how to construct my units. Should i use thin sheet (6mm) over a wooden frame?, Thicker 12mm ply with no frame, or should I try and go deluxe and make up a frame out of metal and then skin bits of it with 3mm, which i could try and router out to make it sit flush. I could do a frame out of welded steel angle, riveted ally angle, or could try and justify that AC TIG and do welded ally... This is what a hub should look like with less crud:  (except for the stupid stud that is now stuck to one of my wheel nuts rather than the hub) Thisafternoon I fitted more lights:  (yes they are in the right places - that's a fog and reverse light and the brake lights are still missing) Today I also bought a propane gas torch to hopefully aid gear linkage rod re-bending, and have watched the tracking for my megasquirt bits which have now made it to Miami where i assume they are waiting for a plane. I also tried to use my air line and found that my (13 months old) compressor seems to have died 
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Aug 17, 2016 01:16
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Tomarse posted:Yep! Like Dave said, its the Zeus kit. It cost me far too much money but should actually make it stop! (Ive done about 20 miles with them since fitting and all of that with a hosed master cylinder but they were still better than the drums) My god that's tidy. I used to take the IIa out so infrequently that I was fiddling with the drums before each trip.
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Aug 17, 2016 02:32
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A mix of 12 & 3mm ply is all you need for the cabinets. There's a product available which is 3mm ply, 5mm foam, 3mm ply, with a Formica-like top layer that's perfectly adequate for caravan/camper interiors. It's a lot lighter but obviously more expensive.
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Aug 17, 2016 06:23
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Cakefool posted:A mix of 12 & 3mm ply is all you need for the cabinets. There's a product available which is 3mm ply, 5mm foam, 3mm ply, with a Formica-like top layer that's perfectly adequate for caravan/camper interiors. It's a lot lighter but obviously more expensive. Where can i buy this wondrous material? Do you think just using that (drilled/screwed/glued) would work without the need to build a framework to put it on? or would i still want to reinforce some of the internal corners?
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Aug 17, 2016 12:06
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Thisafternoon I used my propane torch to heat my gear linkage so that I could rebend it. Wedged in the end of the landrover bumper it bent easily once hot and now fits round the EFI plenum   Have also repainted it and it is currently hanging up drying. Was missing the bronze bush out of one end so I made a temporary one out of a slice of round steel stock with a hole drilled through the centre. Its going to be so nice being able to change gear without 8mm of slop in either direction! Also stripped the NATO hitch and towing eyes off my front crossmember ready to put some paint on it. Thought it looked a bit bent but its obvious once it is off that someone in the UK military managed to chooch it pretty good and attempt to rip it though the crossmember at some point before beating it back into shape and welding up the tears.  I think that the hitch is going to stay off as I never use it and all it does it hurt me when i walk into it. There are two recovery eyes which I will put back on, or I can just put a strap right round the crossmember in the middle. I also went for a drive in this:  I was thinking about taking the roof off, but there is rain forecast for the weekend, and I have my speakers mounted to it an am enjoying having music on the move. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 22:02
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Have been tweaking my gear linkage thisafternoon, as while it operates the gears perfectly after yesterday I couldn't quite fit the engine cover over the top. This is it in place: Since taking the this photo I have rebent it a bit more to make it sit lower and closer to the plenum. I can now get into all gears and only reverse hits the plenum slightly at the back corner - which I will put up with for now, mainly because I burnt my finger (through a welding glove) on my last test fitting and it really loving hurts even 90 minutes later after an hour under the tap and in a bucket of icy water The linkage has to fit under here:  There is a length of angle not quite visible under the back of the engine cover. I've been chopping and reinforcing it to give clearance. Its now very close but i'm hopeful that it wont interfere when it is all bolted together.... We shall see when I have 2 working hands again tommorrow! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 19:54
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Tomarse posted:Where can i buy this wondrous material? Isomar by nord compensati. http://www.nordcompensati.co.uk/wood-based-sandwich-panels/lightweight-panel-isomar I've been looking for that for days. Looks like Q5 plywood-faced honeycomb is also suitable. http://www.qkhoneycomb.co.uk/qk-lightweight-products/ Eriba caravans use something similar, I believe they manufacture panels with timber set in all the required positions so there's something to screw into where need. Personally I'd go for either aluminium angle frames and laminate panels or a light timber frame.
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Aug 20, 2016 23:04
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Cakefool posted:Isomar by nord compensati. http://www.nordcompensati.co.uk/wood-based-sandwich-panels/lightweight-panel-isomar That looks pretty nice stuff but I cant find pricing or supplier details for either of them. I have only found normal laminated ply pricing (its expensive compared to normal ply) so far, but no suppliers locally yet. I think i'm going to have to ring around the timber yards to find out if they have anything good. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 14:15
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Tomarse posted:That looks pretty nice stuff but I cant find pricing or supplier details for either of them. May I suggest you spring the extra for marine plywood: it won't fall apart if it gets wet and it won't catch a nasty fungus.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:07
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spog posted:May I suggest you spring the extra for marine plywood: it won't fall apart if it gets wet and it won't catch a nasty fungus. Yeah, if I use any ply it will definitely be marine ply!
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Aug 21, 2016 15:12
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Tomarse posted:Yeah, if I use any ply it will definitely be marine ply! Not that I am insulting your building skills by suggesting that your newly-restored pride and joy will leak....but it is a landrover.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:17
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spog posted:Not that I am insulting your building skills by suggesting that your newly-restored pride and joy will leak....but it is a landrover. I re-skinned 3/4 of the roof using 2 sheets of chequer plate over the top of the current roof, stuck down with much sikaflex and then bolted round the edges with a small quantity of bolts which used rubber washers, and were helped with liberal application of silicone sealant. Then painted over. It still leaks slightly.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:24
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Tomarse posted:That looks pretty nice stuff but I cant find pricing or supplier details for either of them. Sadly none of the links I have from years ago are working, let us know what you can find.
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Aug 21, 2016 20:59
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Today I managed to start the truck and move it out of my drive! Got it approx 5 metres before it ran out of petrol and died. Had real trouble getting it to move far because I managed to leave a car ramp under it which got wedged (I was using the ramp as a step) This was supposed to be a video of it seamlessly driving off and then me 3 point turning it back into the same spot... (boring video warning) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgv75GCFv48 I've also fitted and wired up most of my lights and started actually taking bits out of storage and refitting them to the truck! - the front fogs, front grill and front mudflaps today. Feel like progress when bits go back on!  Moving it enabled me to find out four things: The drivers side exhaust downpipe rattles and blows really annoyingly. I think its the joint between the manifold and downpipe. Getting it into reverse is almost impossible. It was hard 3 years ago, but fixing all the play in the gear linkage has made it even harder. I think I need to look at the selector mechanism as reverse is right on the limit of the gear selector. It will only go in if you force it whilst rolling. I have almost no brakes. Not spongy but takes about 4 pumps to get them to do anything. I need to work on my megasquirt idle setup and fuel tune a lot. After it ran out of petrol and died, it wouldn't hot start so I had to leave it for 30 minutes to cool down (and fill it with petrol). I used this time to remove a bin bag full of cable ties, weeds, rusty bolts and cat turds from the space it had left on my drive. Eventually I got it moved back in and decided to strip down the most disgusting side of the rear brakes. After 1 can of brake cleaner it looked like this:  One of the pistons in the wheel cylinder is stuck solid, which starts to explain the poo poo brakes. Going to do the other 2 corners tomorrow. I suspect that the other rear cylinder is also stuck. I have been having loads of issues getting my idle down below about 1800rpm - even with the IAC valve tested and known to be fully closing. After doing some reading up I discovered that on the 4.6 plenum that I am using there was a idle adjuster screw hidden under a tamper proof cap. After finding and removing the cap I found a screw that I could turn in and drop the idle down to 900rpm or so. I'm using a range rover 4.6 plenum on a 3.9 engine so as stock it would let too much air through.
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Aug 28, 2016 23:27
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Tomarse posted:After it ran out of petrol and died, it wouldn't hot start so I had to leave it for 30 minutes to cool down (and fill it with petrol). I used this time to remove a bin bag full of cable ties, weeds, rusty bolts and cat turds from the space it had left on my drive. It turns out that 5L of petrol in a Landrover 101 is only enough to make it run properly when pointing uphill (the pump is at the back of the tank). Just spent the entire afternoon messing about with it before taking the fuel pump out tonight to bench test it, and finding that it was sitting in about 5mm of petrol - which is seemingly enough to get it to run for about 1 sec before it runs out of fuel pressure... Also stripped the other rear brake down. Nothing wrong with it other than lack of adjustment  Drumbrakes.jpg Tomarse fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 20:27
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Tomarse posted:Eventually I got it moved back in and decided to strip down the most disgusting side of the rear brakes. Ugh, I fully support your disgust. I really, really hated the drums on my Lighty. Think I might have already said this.
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Aug 29, 2016 23:53
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meltie posted:Ugh, I fully support your disgust. I really, really hated the drums on my Lighty. Think I might have already said this. Last week I purchased 10L of brake cleaner from ebay. I am now prepared! I also purchased a GPS/GPRS vehicle tracker unit that does remote relay activation, a fuel pressure gauge, a multi meter and an assortment of other parts. If there is a GCHQ script that watches for interesting purchases then I probably triggered it! I fitted the fuel pressure gauge today, and also found that when parked facing down a slope it takes 35L of petrol to fully cover my fuel pump  . That's a full tank in my car and under 1/3rd of a tank in this truck! With a decent amount of fuel in the tank the truck now starts and runs properly!I think I should have chosen my fuel pump more carefully. I needed 36-40psi for the fuel rail and injectors that I am running and the cheap generic 'range rover' pump that I ended up buying appears to do 85-95psi according to the gauge. I'm using fuel line rated for 200psi yet thisafternoon I burst the fuel line between the filter and injector rail, so either the pressure gauge is out or the fuel line is lying.
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Sep 4, 2016 00:01
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I've done lots of stuff to the truck over the last week but not made much apparent forward progress... It has rained and since turning the truck round in my drive it has altered the way it slopes and my roof was dripping on my and pissing me off, so I ripped out a roof sheet and all the soggy insulation:  The source of the leak is pretty obvious in this photo (daylight visible just in front of the roof hatch):  Going to replace the insulation with some Celotex sheets but i need to go buy them and get them back from the builders merchant somehow. I have pvc/foam sheeting to replace the wood. Then i moved onto some more brakes... Stripped and rebuilt the other front hub and cleaned up and painted all the components. Broke a front brake line disconnecting it... Got a new rear wheel cylinder. While fitting it I snapped the brake line off behind it. I then investigated the lines further back and found it was all corroded - So now i'm replacing pretty much all the brake lines.... While under the truck looking at this i noticed how crusty it was. it has been spray under sealed at some point before I got it but it had started coming off in sheets and there was rust behind it and i dont want any more holes like I have on the front and rear crossmembers. So today I took off the rear of the exhaust and spent 6 hours wearing earplugs and goggles and lying on the floor After:   Factory chassis paint is still there in places but its quite crusty in others. I'm going to POR15 it before refitting all the brake lines. I'm not sure what the best thing to do with the stock paint is (where it remains). I think i just need to wirewheel it loads more and sand it a lot This is the most disgusting job ever. After 2 showers I still have bits of black poo poo stuck in my hair. Real man shower gel:  On the end of the coily bit in the above picture there is a 'brake apportioning valve' fitted that changes the pressure to the brake lines depending on the weight of the truck. I was thinking about removing it but someone pointed out that while it may be pretty much at max all the time when stationary due to the weight of the back body it should still do something when you get weight transfer under heavy braking so keeping it might be a good idea. Mine was rusted up roughly in a central position which might help to explain my perpetually ineffective brakes a bit more. I managed to crack it open:  This is what is inside:  Which consists of an excessive quantity of parts:  Its got loads of components but it basically moves slightly on brake pedal pressure and allows varying amounts of fluid past a tapered bush which moves a ballbearing. It also has a pushrod sticking out of the end that gets acted on by the rear axle movement to act against pedal fluid pressure. Apparently landrover stole it from the Bedford MK truck parts bin! Stupidly expensive to buy a replacement (a britpart one is £80, other makes £160+) but you can get new pushrods and a seal kit for £20. I'm now waiting for them to arrive. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 00:26
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Swarfega's bloody ace. They do one with bits in too. Screwfix (or machine mart?) do a full-face safety mask that's really good for wearing while face-up under the truck - even better than goggles.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:31
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meltie posted:Swarfega's bloody ace. They do one with bits in too. I've been meaning to buy one of those face masks for ages. Just remembered to buy one along with my swarfega top up from screwfix!. I usually get the bitty one but ran out a while ago and the 'smooth' one has been hanging about for years being used as a backup.
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Sep 8, 2016 09:53
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meltie posted:Swarfega's bloody ace. They do one with bits in too. Microbeads are going to be banned by the end of next year - so better start stocking up on Swarfega. Probably will be a huge black market for them in a few years.
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Sep 8, 2016 10:35
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spog posted:Microbeads are going to be banned by the end of next year - so better start stocking up on Swarfega. Swarfega switched to using cornmeal last year. More environmentally friendly than many beauty products!
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Sep 8, 2016 13:54
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Sorry to hijack the thread but, care to explain?
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Sep 8, 2016 15:34
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slothrop posted:Sorry to hijack the thread but, care to explain? Swarfega is a popular British brand of hand cleaner. meltie posted:Swarfega's bloody ace. They do one with bits in too. "Swarfega is the best. They also make a variety that contans scrubbing particles." The rest is self-explanatory. spog posted:Microbeads are going to be banned by the end of next year - so better start stocking up on Swarfega. Tomarse posted:Swarfega switched to using cornmeal last year. More environmentally friendly than many beauty products!
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Sep 8, 2016 15:45
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I think most of that stuff in the US uses pumice. But I don't think I've read the label since I was a kid, so who knows.
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Sep 8, 2016 15:48
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I finally got the main front-back brake pipe run off the truck today and the entire back half of the chassis and rear axle are both all cleaned up and degreased ready for painting. Cut all the old rusted up brake pipe clips off and have drilled new 6mm holes in the chassis ready for new plastic clips to hold the pipe. Today my rebuild parts for the apportioning valve showed up along with new brake flexy pipes and so did my new toy - a small chinesium ultrasonic cleaner. I've been using my sandblasting cabinet to clean up loads of bits. I can now clean the grit off them properly afterwards. Have already blasted the body of the valve and all its rusty components. Tomorrow it can all have 20 mins in the cleaner before reassembly I shall also have spotlessly clean glasses every day!I've bought loads of other stuff off ebay/amazon over the last week but only half of every combination seems to have arrived. I have loads of paint brushes but no paint and a roll of brake pipe but not the majority of the fittings to go on the end. Amusingly landrover used a combination of metric and imperial ends from the factory - It uses M10, M12 and 3/8 UNF.
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Sep 8, 2016 22:24
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Godholio posted:I think most of that stuff in the US uses pumice. But I don't think I've read the label since I was a kid, so who knows. The bottle of Fast Orange I have here is definitely full of pumice. It's a few years old though, shirley they haven't changed it in that time? It works pretty well.
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Sep 10, 2016 06:36
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got a first coat of POR15 onto the chassis thisafternoon. Hoping to get a second coat and then a top coat on it tomorrow. Not only are full face masks good for cleaning poo poo off a chassis while lying on the floor they also complete a POR-15 protective outfit well. No black stains on my face!
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Sep 10, 2016 19:53
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Over the past week or so I have rebuilt the brake apportioning valve: painted the entire back half of the chassis and rear axle with 3 coats of POR15, then refitted the valve along with entirely new brake pipes and flexys from the main junction at the front through to the rear cylinders.  and also replaced one front flexy along with half of the front axle - then I ran out of brake pipe (That's an entire 25ft roll gone). I need to paint the front half of the chassis and front axle. one day soon!  Then i bought myself one of these  However I still can't get the loving brakes to work properly despite having now bled 1.5litres of fluid through the system. meltie posted:Ugh, I fully support your disgust. I really, really hated the drums on my Lighty. Think I might have already said this.  The front calipers bleed perfectly, but I just get bubbles out of the back cylinders forever. I've currently got the rear axle flexy hose clamped off and the brake pedal is awesome. Without the rear flexy clamped it seems to take somewhere between 3 and 5 pumps before the pedal stops and then sometimes it still seems to move down, so I think its got to be one of the rear cylinders (I assume that the rear apportioning valve cant be causing it as while it isn't moving any fluid with the rear flexy clamped off it is still in the system?) The adjusters work and I've put new shoes on both sides and adjusted them up. I thought I might have solved it when I found that the old trailing/leading shoes were reversed on one side and thus the adjusters didn't work properly but it appears not Neither cylinder is leaking. One is newly fitted (and is not a shitpart one!). The other is old but doesn't seem to be leaking and appears to be putting the brakes on after a few pumps. I assume that it is however allowing air in past the seals (which is why i get bubbles out with the bleeder). Tomarse fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 19:03
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I was thinking of getting that exact bleeder, is it any good aside from using it on the Landie? Though I think the TLS fronts on mine represent the stupidest setup for bleeding however you cut it.
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Sep 17, 2016 00:00
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InitialDave posted:I was thinking of getting that exact bleeder, is it any good aside from using it on the Landie? I have only used it on the 101 so far. On the front calipers it works amazingly. I'm about to go out and buy a new cylinder. I'll reserve full judgement of the device until I can see it working on the rear cylinders too. It did seem to pull fluid through the new main pipe run without difficulty.. On the rears it is a bit of pain to use because of the short nipples and backplate design on the LR - it is tricky to get a spanner on the screw it at the same time as the rubber bleeder attachment. My Calipers have nipples like this on:  Which give you loads of clearance to get a spanner on at the same time as the rubber pipe attachment. I'm about to buy 2 more of these for the back cylinders and fit them with ptfe tape on the threads and see if it makes it easier to use. If it does then the series is getting big nips all round!
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Sep 17, 2016 07:58
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Tomarse posted:I'm about to buy 2 more of these for the back cylinders and fit them with ptfe tape on the threads and see if it makes it easier to use. If it does then the series is getting big nips all round! Silly question; is PTFE tape safe with brake fluid?
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Sep 18, 2016 05:30
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meltie posted:Silly question; is PTFE tape safe with brake fluid? It'll dissolve in seconds. The threads probably aren't what's sealing; usually brakes rely on flares mating up properly rather than threads. The threads just force them together.
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Sep 18, 2016 06:55
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Yeah, I'm only using ptfe on the very outer threads of the bleed nipples to see if it means the pressure bleeder will work on them - I think it might be pulling air past the threads. When tightened the nipples seal against fluid with a mating face at the bottom end, not with the threads. In the end I just couldn't get the pressure bleeder to work on the smaller back nipples so I bled it manually and actually now have brakes!
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Sep 18, 2016 07:06
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That beast (and by proxy, you) is godamn heroic. Just thought I'd add that here. Carry on.
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Sep 18, 2016 16:17
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Tomarse posted:Yeah, I'm only using ptfe on the very outer threads of the bleed nipples to see if it means the pressure bleeder will work on them - I think it might be pulling air past the threads. When tightened the nipples seal against fluid with a mating face at the bottom end, not with the threads. NICE! There's got to be some kind of sealant that'll survive brake fluid, so if you want to use something I'd do some reading. I don't know off the top of my head, but that teflon tape will melt and turn to goo. I'm not sure I'd want to risk that stuff getting into the system, unless maybe you just put it on the last couple of threads that mate with the caliper.
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Sep 18, 2016 17:55
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PTFE/Teflon is actually quite resistant to brake fluids. it will be fine. here's a good article, I learned a few things from it (like that DOT5 works with the same seal materials as 3/4/5.1, but you must flush all sludge and remaining glycol base fluids out before filling with DOT5, since the two form a weird gelatinous mass when combined) - http://www.sector111.com/images/products/performance/brake_bits/torque/The%2520ABCs%2520of%2520Brake%2520Fluid.pdf page 6 recommends switching to teflon brake hoses when EPDM doesn't quite cut it for a variety of reasons. I know teflon is impervious to almost all chemicals, and can't find any references to various glycols damaging it in any of the chemical compatibility databases I could find, so it makes sense to me. If I had to guess, your load sensing valve is giving you fits with bleeding the system, a common issue on several vehicles I've worked on, including Comanches. Try moving the lever on it to the position it would be in during highest rear brake biasing (probably fully loaded) before bleeding the system.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:10
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