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I can't wait to see your ideas and to get hold of your sketchups so I can play with them! While its gonna kill my storage a bit, I don't want to make the storage on one side too deep as being able to sit inside and see the world out of the open doors is nice. While having massive doors makes internal layout a pain it makes it feel more like you are outside when you are sitting in the back - which is nice. Fridge is top opening. I was envisaging leaving to top clear and just having a fitted tray on it which I would use as temporary worktop/table and lift off if it was in use when I wanted to open the fridge. I wonder if I can get a small hand winch for the roof. If I used a strop through the wheel centre hole and had a guide to keep it straight as it rolled I could probably just roll the wheel up the back and onto the roof. Could mount a guide strip on the side of a ladder on the rear door.. My fuel pump came yesterday. Comes with a stupid tiny wiring tail which isn't long enough, so I'm gonna have to extend it with solder/crimp joints inside the tank 
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Jul 13, 2016 07:07
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Will you be keeping the mixer ring setup for the LPG or switching to sequential injection?
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Jul 13, 2016 10:47
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I can't tell you how jealous I am of you. I've always wanted one and have looked at buying on more than one occasion - but always came to the conclusion that a Transit would do everything better, cheaper. I shouldn't listen to my head and should listen to my heart more.
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Jul 13, 2016 11:55
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spog posted:I can't tell you how jealous I am of you. Having seen it in person I can say that although a transit may be cheaper to buy and fuel, easier to drive, park, climb into, stand up in and change a wheel, it's not better.
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Jul 13, 2016 13:38
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4x4 Transits are pretty cool in their own way, though.
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Jul 13, 2016 17:15
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InitialDave posted:4x4 Transits are pretty cool in their own way, though. 4x4? 
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Jul 13, 2016 18:14
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This is awesome. I've always fancied the idea of a 101/127/130 ambo body camper. InitialDave posted:4x4 Transits are pretty cool in their own way, though. County's are rare as hens teeth now though, and the newer ones don't look as if they would be any good off road. Sprinter 4x4's look sweet though.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:58
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stump posted:This is awesome. I've always fancied the idea of a 101/127/130 ambo body camper. I wish they'd gone ahead with the Llama project:  Coil-sprung successor to the 101, but with the intent to also be available commercially like the older Forward Controls were. They canned it because the army didn't go for it.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:14
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InitialDave posted:I wish they'd gone ahead with the Llama project: 
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Jul 13, 2016 22:34
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Will you be keeping the mixer ring setup for the LPG or switching to sequential injection? I'd quite like to make it run injection LPG via the megasquirt - but i'm going to make it work first, then step things up gradually - otherwise i will never finish! spog posted:I can't tell you how jealous I am of you. but a transit would be boring Have ordered lots of stuff today but not actually achieved much. - Finished running all my fuel lines tonight but found that I didn't have any of the right size fuel line clamps so have just had to order some. - Also clamped my new fuel pump onto the holder and tried to test fit it into the tank to ensure it fits rounds the baffles/ridges at the bottom of the tank - however the jubilee clips I had used to attach it were too fat to fit through the hole in the top of the tank, so i have had to order some more suitable clamps (have gone for some metal cable ties) as I don't have anything already. - Then I decided to solder the wiring up for it - but my Aldi gas soldering iron keeps loving up and wont get hot enough - so I have also ordered myself a replacement mains soldering iron. While I had my credit card out I have also ordered an entire set of NAS Defender lights. They are not as nice as the original military spec ones it did have, but all my fittings are hosed and a full set of new NAS ones is about 1/4 of the price of a set of NOS/re-manufactured ones. They are about the same size as the originals so should look OK.
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Jul 15, 2016 00:03
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On Saturday I got all the wiring completed to my megasquirt. Just need to mod it now to take a coil -ve rev input. I also wired up oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges along with a fag lighter socket for power. 18 months ago I cut some rust out of my rear crossmember and on Sunday I decided to fix it so that I can get the lights wired up. Did some C.A.D.:  Did some welding:  Then wirewheeled it all and I need to paint it and get some waxoyl inside it now. I also fitted my  and in the process got a proper facefull of coolant after I found that I had only left the radiator drain plug in loosely and it came out on the first turn while i was lying directly underneath it. New fuel pump is also ready to go in as soon as my hose clamps arrive.
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Jul 18, 2016 10:18
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InitialDave posted:Bear in mind that a 127/130 (they're actually identical wheelbases, just a name change) will have the turning circle of a battleship. And I mean like an Iowa-class or something, not some little baby one. I thought my WRX was bad until I started driving the lifted Disco daily, I can't imagine what those extra 27" would do to it.
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Jul 18, 2016 20:54
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I guess replacement crossmembers aren't available off the shelf for the 101? Though yours doesn't look as holey as mine was. I've sorted my slightly loose steering (relay wasn't a tight enough fit in the bore), but still got a pull under heavier braking, looks like I'll need to dig into the front brakes.
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Jul 18, 2016 23:11
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InitialDave posted:I guess replacement crossmembers aren't available off the shelf for the 101? Though yours doesn't look as holey as mine was. Guess again! There is a very nice man who runs an engineering company over in your part of the country who I think will now do you a complete chassis. He definitely does both crossmembers and all the outriggers. Not as cheap as for a series but undoubtedly better made. He now re manufactures nearly all the custom 101 bits. This week he added fuel pump cradles to his catalog. last month he added indicator stalk covers and 101 jerry can holders. Am about to start hassling him to make the directional vent flaps for my heater.. quote:I've sorted my slightly loose steering (relay wasn't a tight enough fit in the bore), but still got a pull under heavier braking, looks like I'll need to dig into the front brakes.  its only taken 15 years of practice and access to an off road gravel area where i can do emergency stops and then measure my skid marks...Some 101 progress today: Fuel pump assembled:  New lights came:  Bit bigger than the old ones but I think should look OK, and will actually work! Painted my crossmember:  Unfortunately I now need to enlarge the holes for the lights from 35mm to 42mm diameter. Am thinking my best bet might be something like one of these:  though it looks like I might have to oversize the holes to 45mm.
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Jul 19, 2016 21:30
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There's always the slightly janky trick of putting two hole saws inside each other, the small one to centre it, the bigger one the right size. Did you have time to look at the last sketchup I sent you?
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Jul 19, 2016 21:54
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Or if there's room behind the panel, a lump of wood to put the centre drill of the hole saw into, clamped/screwed in place.Tomarse posted:Guess again! There is a very nice man who runs an engineering company over in your part of the country who I think will now do you a complete chassis. He definitely does both crossmembers and all the outriggers. Tomarse posted:Get used to working on those brakes. Not sure if i mentioned but my series 2 passed its MOT 2 weeks ago - with zero advisories!. I clearly got my brake adjustment spot on first try I have a servo-assist twin-line master cylinder to give a once-over for future fitment, but that would involve full brake pipe replacement as well, so I think I'll get it working properly again as-is first.
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Jul 19, 2016 22:14
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Cakefool posted:There's always the slightly janky trick of putting two hole saws inside each other, the small one to centre it, the bigger one the right size. I don't have any metal hole saw drills anymore, nor the base mount for them (used to have but I left them with my previous business when I left). Will cost more than £8 to rebuy.quote:Did you have time to look at the last sketchup I sent you? I have just decided that my office is cool enough to re-enter and have looked and my verdict is that your latest sketchup is awesome!. I will email you!
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Jul 19, 2016 22:21
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InitialDave posted:Or if there's room behind the panel, a lump of wood to put the centre drill of the hole saw into, clamped/screwed in place. Single sheet of metal at the ends and the back opens straight into the wheel hole, so yeah - would work. Its approx 2mm steel though. Gonna need a decent bit. quote:That's interesting. And yeah, the aftermarket parts aren't always that brilliant. Website All the bits here that are not genuine LR, NOS or off the shelf oddments are built inhouse or assembled to spec. quote:Other than being a pig to bleed, they're not too bad (I don't know about yours, but mine's twin leading shoe 11" setup). I managed an advisory-free MOT on it last year, and the adjustment is where it should be, so I think I have a duff cylinder or something. I wanted to eliminate the rear oil seal issue and tighten up the steering first, as that could easily have been leading me in the wrong direction (ha!) on it. I fitted a servo and twin shoe 11" fronts to mine. Are your shoes matched on both sides? I always have trouble getting mine to bed in and thus work evenly as my landy gets so little use. Always end up filing the leading edge slightly and then overtightening them and dragging it round the block with the brake pedal down before redoing the adjustment properly. Or it will be a hosed cylinder (dont use britpart ones!) or a leak in a corner you havent stripped and cleaned yet.
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Jul 19, 2016 22:36
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Tomarse posted:I fitted a servo and twin shoe 11" fronts to mine. Are your shoes matched on both sides? I always have trouble getting mine to bed in and thus work evenly as my landy gets so little use. Always end up filing the leading edge slightly and then overtightening them and dragging it round the block with the brake pedal down before redoing the adjustment properly. Or it will be a hosed cylinder (dont use britpart ones!) or a leak in a corner you havent stripped and cleaned yet.
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Jul 19, 2016 23:32
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WHAT TIME IS IT? ITS MOTHERFUCKING CAD TIME! Step 1, download any pre-made models you can find, totally not cheating.  Model on the left is a badly skinned polygon mess, about 45% of correct size, model on the right has terrible wheels and is about 120% real size. Model 2 it is. Step 2, Repaint it including authentic chequerplate roof, remove the roof, roofrack, ladder, split the rear doors like Tomarse did. Clever lad that Tomarse. Don't change the wheels because modelling wheels is a pain in the arse. Add 40l of frontal collision deterrent.  Step 3: Rescale it to slightly larger than the interior dimensions supplied by owner, then make the interior as a component. Place one copy inside the model, one outside that's easier to work on. Throw in models of everything already discussed. Left hand side  Again  Right hand side  1st draft accomplished. It's technically possible to fit everything needed inside, but honestly there's a hilariously small amount of space in this thing. Floor to ceiling is only 1520mm. Notes: quote:Filling in below the cupboards gives you about 5-6 cubic feet more space, ideal for boots/shoes. Tomarse has seen and played with this model and suggested the following: quote:Placement-wise – would like to move cooker right to the back door (so when I’m burning poo poo the smoke can exit more efficiently). Can possibly go above the bog or can move bog inwards (I plan on using the cooker more than that bog). Was going to use the combined hob/grill that I already have in the back out of the caravan. Need to strip it down and measure the size of the grill/hob unit. Not adverse to buying new if it fits better! So I'll be working on those changes shortly but if anyone has any suggestions or comments please chime in, I may have missed something obvious. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 21:12
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Going a bit off the wall here, but hear me out. I was thinking back to my dad's Renault Master camper / house materials van and he made some of the rear cabinets easily removable to make carrying plasterboard and whatnot easier. I can't remember if you are going to have a awning on it, but if you did would it possibly be worth making some of the units removable? If you made a stand for them it they could be moved into the awning which would give you working space outside where you can stand up and cook as opposed to being cramped up inside? It would also give you more room inside for drying kit and whatnot. Assuming you could find suitable quick connect fittings you could potentially even move the sink outside too. Cooker too, depending on gas storage and plumbing. Might be a bit of a pain for one night, but might make your life more pleasant for longer stays.
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Jul 21, 2016 13:47
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stump posted:Going a bit off the wall here, but hear me out. I was thinking back to my dad's Renault Master camper / house materials van and he made some of the rear cabinets easily removable to make carrying plasterboard and whatnot easier. I do have an awning, and having removable cooking facilities is a great idea... Will have a good think about how I can achieve it. I don't think it would be that hard with a quick release gas fitting. sink would be quite hard to make removable since there is not only 2 water feeds but a waste which i want to run into a tank under the floor. I am however going to run water feeds to the back for a shower which I could quite easily use with a washing up bowl! I was quite hungover today so haven't achieved much. Drilled out my light holes to 45mm and drilled some new mounting holes:  So that I could fit these LR defender lights, which I think fit pretty well:  Then I got Tomos out from the back of my garage (its a Tomos A3MS automatic)  and tried to get him roughly into place. The rear wheel is almost in the right position here:  Have done lots of measuring, and If i fold the handlebars down and remove the seat it should just fit without obstructing my headlights, indicators, and windscreen. The bike speedo will stick up infront of the passenger window by about 5cm - which is acceptable to me. I need to play with the wiring to make the handlebars fully fold down. The seat is currently held on by 2 M6 bolt's. The blue plastic boxes in the photo below are spaced as per my headlights.  Going to get a length of 70mm box section and weld it onto the metal rail sat on the ground below the bike in the above photo, then bolt that to my front cross member in between my headlights, level with where the 2 towing eyes and hitch currently are. I've got 1260mm inbetween the headlights and the wheelbase of the bike is around 1100mm, so should have just enough length. Sitting on a 70mm box section away from the trucks front bulkhead should just give me enough clearance. The footrest can protrude through the grille. I will need to make one rear indicator removable/foldable.
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Jul 23, 2016 20:22
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Tomarse posted:I do have an awning, and having removable cooking facilities is a great idea... Will have a good think about how I can achieve it. I don't think it would be that hard with a quick release gas fitting. Where would the shower be - door mounted? If the kitchen was one unit with the sink mounted vehicle forward and the tap wall-mounted and a second water point on the rear door you could plan to use the door taps when dismounted and the front wall taps when mounted. For the waste there's a conical mating piece I know of but need to find listed designed for removable tanks, if I can find it cheap it's ideal. Full mating depth should be 10mm approx so if you lift the unit up 10mm you can slide it out. You'll need some way of catching waste when outside, I'd guess your vehicle waste tank will be too high to try and divert to. E: push fit pvc plumbing will do the waste job for a couple of quid, never mind. Bike looks good there, I'll not try and add that to the sketchup model  E^2: If you want the sink to stay in the vehicle and the rest comes out that's easier, is that what you mean? Gas just keep the bottle in the kitchen unit?
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Jul 23, 2016 21:44
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For outside sink waste, maybe just disconnect the drain from the sink bowl and run a straight pipe into a bucket? My parents used that solution in their house for a few months (they bought it a 100 year old wooden house with no cold water or waste), so it's certainly good enough for camping. You could make just the top of the sink unit removable, leaving the plumbing and undersink storage in place, possibly with a light cover over the open hole.
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Jul 23, 2016 22:09
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As you have good, wide double doors at the back, could you arrange it so the left and right cupboard units are on a parallelogram linkage, and can be moved out into the awning area in "full fat" mode, but still function normally inside?
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Jul 23, 2016 22:09
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Tomarse posted:
That looks to me like it would impede the air flow to your rad and I'd be worried about it overheating. I've heard of big toolboxes causing issues with Series Landies and your engine being inboard, I guess you've got less heat loss from the engine from natural aircooling as well.
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Jul 24, 2016 00:29
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Cakefool posted:Add 40l of frontal collision deterrent. So based on my experience of side mounted military Jerry cans there is going to be Petrol/diesel all over your windscreen all the time. No matter how much you pre-wipe the jerrys. Bike is a better idea but again how will affect the Rad flow.
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Jul 24, 2016 09:49
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Cakefool posted:Where would the shower be - door mounted? I'm thinking a mixer tap mounted perhaps where the bog-roll storage is in the sketchup. and an external hose something like this. I will put a couple of brackets on the outside of the truck to hold the shower head (there are already plenty of brackets, clips and holes on there I can hang it on), one at person height, one lower level. Will rig up a couple of clips to hold a curtain/screen. Not planning on using this everyday - would just like it as an emergency shower and to use for things like washing boots. Waste tank is going to be too high. I'm either not going to do anything to catch the waste or need a small tray I can catch it in and then manually empty. quote:E^2: If you want the sink to stay in the vehicle and the rest comes out that's easier, is that what you mean? Gas just keep the bottle in the kitchen unit? Gas bottle I want to try and hang outside. I think I can just fit an external cage for it next to my autogas LPG tank. Autogas tanks with vapour take-offs seem to be impossible to find (as I previously mentioned), but i have just found these people who do refillable cylinders but they are quite expensive I know i can get quick release LPG rated connectors so I can move the cooker outside easily. InitialDave posted:As you have good, wide double doors at the back, could you arrange it so the left and right cupboard units are on a parallelogram linkage, and can be moved out into the awning area in "full fat" mode, but still function normally inside? In theory, yes I could, and that would be pretty awesome, but in practise I'm not sure I could manage to implement it satisfactorily. units would have to drop down vertically too due to how high the interior is. spog posted:That looks to me like it would impede the air flow to your rad and I'd be worried about it overheating. Hmm. good point. There is a guy however with his spare wheel on the front over the rad hole and he says it is fine but he does live in scotland. I think a lot of the (limited) radiator airflow is just pulled from underneath anyway. there has to be something wierd going on with pressure differentials and air movement when you have an engine mounted like mine. I think when i get it running again i will need to try it and see. Anphear posted:So based on my experience of side mounted military Jerry cans there is going to be Petrol/diesel all over your windscreen all the time. No matter how much you pre-wipe the jerrys. Jerry's are going on the roof (will build a cage/rack for them). Points about airflow taken. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 10:14
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Tomarse posted:Hmm. good point. There is a guy however with his spare wheel on the front over the rad hole and he says it is fine but he does live in scotland. I think a lot of the (limited) radiator airflow is just pulled from underneath anyway. there has to be something wierd going on with pressure differentials and air movement when you have an engine mounted like mine. I think when i get it running again i will need to try it and see. That mouting immediately struck me as a Bad Idea but it wasn't until I had a nap that I realised the alrm bells rang because it's a pedestrian killer and only one step down from mounting spikes on the front of your vehicle. Sure, getting hit in the face by a 101 isn't pleasant, but at least there aren't sharp bits, blunt scythes, fragmentation plates and solid bolts striking you in the head/chest. It's also probably illegal: quote:Regulation 53 Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986. Okay, you could argue to the nice officer that it's not an ornamental object, but I am sure there are other rules that prohibit it as you aren;t allowed to have sharp bits sticking out of a vehicle. But regardless of the law, you shouldn't do it because you are a nice guy and you'll feel like shite if someone gets severely injured by it. Plus, it ruins look of that lovely landy.
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Jul 24, 2016 12:00
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Speaking of which you'd only need to raise the roof 350mm to have proper standing height and space for a double bed over the cab...
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Jul 24, 2016 12:13
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For both the bike and fuel, you could make a basket that you lift into the roof with arms bolted up to the rear tires, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZn12gTg9_4 Something Like this, only long enough to pop a basket up on the roof, and 1 bar on either side that you can just slide into slots on the side of the vehicle when you're not loading/unloading. I've drawn up this super technical sketch in a very expensive cad program. 
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Jul 24, 2016 12:20
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gently caress I'm out of a job.
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Jul 24, 2016 12:24
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C&U regs don't backdate to vehicles built earlier than a given edition.
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Jul 24, 2016 16:52
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Cakefool posted:Speaking of which you'd only need to raise the roof 350mm to have proper standing height and space for a double bed over the cab... I read this as cm and thought you were genuinely insane.
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Jul 24, 2016 18:33
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Godholio posted:I read this as cm and thought you were genuinely insane. I thought 350mm looked okay  But I think there's something to this upstairs bedroom idea 
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Jul 24, 2016 19:01
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You know what we are all thinking:
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Jul 24, 2016 19:04
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spog posted:That mouting immediately struck me as a Bad Idea but it wasn't until I had a nap that I realised the alrm bells rang because it's a pedestrian killer and only one step down from mounting spikes on the front of your vehicle. Have you seen the front of a 101? I'm not sure that having a bike on the front will decrease pedestrian safety significantly! I think it adds crumple zone!   I've seen these in use, so there is definitely a precedent for it (though maybe not in the UK, I think I might have seen them in New York?), and because I haven't yet had any ideas that are easier to implement. I don't like the look either but I'd really like to take the bike with me because It will make long term use of the van more practical, as I can park up and then use that instead for local trips. I'm going to have a brainstorming session based around the back of the truck too. Just struggling to work out how to do it easily. having rear doors is a PITA. I'm wondering if I can mount the rail on one door and have it slide out of the way when the door is open, or since the bike is pretty light i can possibly rig up a hinged frame that i can mount it on vertically against one door. Powershift posted:For both the bike and fuel, you could make a basket that you lift into the roof with arms bolted up to the rear tires, If you forget to put the gearbox in low I can see that working as a good catapult! Cakefool posted:Speaking of which you'd only need to raise the roof 350mm to have proper standing height and space for a double bed over the cab... One of the guys in the club built a custom body for a 101GS and has an awesome double bed over the cab that pulls down on sprung arms, so it is flush up against the roof when not in use. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 22:55
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Tomarse posted:Have you seen the front of a 101? I'm not sure that having a bike on the front will decrease pedestrian safety significantly! I think it adds crumple zone! I would check the rules very carefully before sticking anything on the front: unlike the US, we're big on pedestrian safety (whereas in the US, if you aren't driving, you are too poor to matter) We've already banned wing mirrors and bullbars and I know of more than one person getting fined for having a small pewter model of a horse on the front of their jag. Having a full-sized mechanical horse must surely be worse in the eyes of the law. quote:I'm going to have a brainstorming session based around the back of the truck too. Just struggling to work out how to do it easily. having rear doors is a PITA. Why not a hinged horizontal frame that site below each doors with the bike on it? With a bit of clever design, you can could leave it in place without a bike and allow one door to swing open above it. 
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Jul 25, 2016 14:58
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Silly question, apart from the inevitable you've been framed moment would you consider storing it inside the van?Tomarse posted:One of the guys in the club built a custom body for a 101GS and has an awesome double bed over the cab that pulls down on sprung arms, so it is flush up against the roof when not in use. That sounds awesome. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 20:15
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For the last 3 weeks I've been working far too much, and have only had a few hours here and there to spend on the landrover until this weekend. However - Today I made it run on petrol via my megasquirt ECU!: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41J23-u3LLs (poo poo video warning - sorry) Currently it is idling at 2500rpm because I have no Idle valve control, but it starts and everything else looks promising. I am awaiting an MS2 board to arrive from the US after getting messed about by a UK supplier who decided to make me wait while the £/$ value got worse and worse and then cancelled my order due to lack of stock The megasquirt has been a bit of a nightmare. I actually fitted the ECU into the truck for the first time 3 weeks ago but couldn't get an RPM signal. I bought an oscilloscope, borrowed a signal generator and checked all my wiring and couldn't find anything wrong. Last night i got desperate and used the wiring schematics to trace the RPM signal through the megasquirt board and found a broken trace in the PCB. Fixed that and then thismorning I refitted it and found that I got an RPM reading at last! - but that I could only get it to start and run (badly) at WOT. Anything else and it would flood and die. After lots of reading up and head scratching about 'flood clear' mode I realised that I had the TPS wired up backwards so it was reading WOT all the time except for when you pressed the pedal. As soon as I swapped the wires round it began to start properly and behave more like I was expecting 2 weeks ago I decided to pull the front wheel off to try and sort out the oil leak from the back of my hub. It was nasty and rusty back there too  I ordered some hub seals and it spent 2 weeks looking like this. Cat was not impressed:  Yesterday I stripped it down and cleaned everything up and painted it all (using the other landrover as a workbench):   Today I put it all back together, and managed to not take a photo of it . It looks quite pretty too now that it is all clean and shiny!I bought a hub nut spanner so that I didn't have to use a chisel on the nice new hub nuts I bought but the stupid thing isn't deep enough to work on my hub past the driveshaft. I have now emailed the seller this photo to tell him how useless it is! 
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Aug 14, 2016 23:45
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