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Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

RazNation posted:

If you are spending $10k a year on boat maintenance, you got a seriously fawked up boat.

$10k USD for a 40ish foot sailboat for a year is what I would budget for repairs, if you want to uphold a baseline level of maintenance. Assume some of that goes toward the sail budget (two sails at a minimum, and $5k+ each to replace), engine servicing, rig service (standing and running rigging both need regular repair/replacement) and all the other systems on the boat will need care. You also need to haul and reapply antifouling paint every year or two. Hull should get regular diving and zincs checked/replaced, every couple months or so. Not even including cosmetic stuff like waxing gel coat, varnishing teak, keeping the cabin clean and dry so it doesn't get moldy and stinky...

You can do lots of these things yourself and save money but it all takes time...

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Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

RazNation posted:

Well, that depends on if you are talking repairs or talking maintenance. Two different things in my opinion.
Sure, if you run your boat into a piling, that's a repair. If you crash jibe and taco the boom, that's a repair. If a hose fails and the boat sinks at the slip and kills your engine, that's a repair. If you put 7k hours on your diesel and it's worn out and you need to rebuild/repower, that's maintenance. You're probably not doing that annually, but it's not unexpected.

RazNation posted:

As far as sails go, they should last a minimum of five years with proper care. Unless you race and are using the $$$$$ material which means the sails will probably bag by the end of the first season.....if you really are a die hard racer. Of course, the price of replacement depends on what options you get with the sail....fabric, reef points, stack pack, etc etc. The last time I priced a main sail for my 27' Contest, I got a $7k price tag with just a coastal setup (fabric, two reef points, nothing much else)

Dacron sails last for a long time, but they get bagged out and lose their shape after a few years of moderate use. What does that mean? In big breeze, you can't get the sail flat to depower it, which means the boat heels more, which slows you down and isn't very comfortable. Most cruisers/day-sailors just deal with it. Racers at higher levels spend ungodly amounts on sails.

Racers prefer laminate sails over Dacron (polyester). They hold their shape very well and are much lighter than Dacron, reducing weight aloft and thus righting moment (makes the boat heel less/keel ballast is more effective). Instead of stretching out, usually they fail when the mylar film breaks down and you have a big window in the sail. Or the clew pulls off or something. A full suit for offshore racing for my boat would run $100k, easily. You could expect a couple of seasons (of heavy offshore use) out of that.

RazNation posted:

Other than oil and impeller changes each year, there really isn't that much work needed on the engine. I pull the zincs each time I do the oil just to see if they need to be replaced.

I'm including the entire drivetrain in the 'engine' umbrella. Packing glands need repacking, cutless bearings wear out, engine mounts wear out, alternators and starters are electrical devices living in close proximity to salt water and have a much shorter service interval than on land. Fuel hoses get old and crusty, the list goes on and on. And the 10%/yr. figure is an average, not absolute. Some years you're going to get by with regular services. If you're lucky to keep your engine happy enough to wear it out, a repower for a 40' sailboat is probably going to run you $30k.

RazNation posted:

As far as the standing rigging, I just do a dye test once a year and call it good. Quick check for broken strands and maybe a pull test to see if the rig needs to be re-adjusted. Running rigging, I replace when the chafing becomes too much.

When was the last time you pulled the chainplates? How does your mast step look? Sheaves at masthead? Spreaders? Any stainless fasteners in the aluminum spar that aren't insulated well any more and causing the alum to turn to dust? There are many points of failure. And mostly you're replacing standing rigging on a time schedule, not because failure is plainly imminent.

RazNation posted:

I do a quick haul and power wash maybe twice a year if I don't get a diver to scrub the hull and check zincs. Quick haul lets me check the bottom paint and see if I got any blisters. I am pretty sure that if you are replacing zincs every 60 days, you got some boat issues that really need to be looked at.

For me, painting the bottom runs about $7-10/foot for haulout, block, and splash. Paint runs about the same with all zincs replaced. Yard can do this in about three days if they are working on my boat as soon as it gets hauled.

Bottom paint works better when it gets regular cleaning. Even brand new bottom paint gets slimy after a couple weeks/months if you don't wipe it off. Agreed about the zincs, I usually get 6 months or so. But if they were gone after 2 months, I'd rather know then. Some harbors are just 'hot'. If your neighbor has wiring issues and fries your prop, you'll wish you'd had a diver checking it out more often. Plus, your boat sails a lot better with a clean rear end, which is nice.

Haul-outs here in SF Bay are pricey enough that most people aren't having their boat pulled and pressure washed multiple times a season unless they have very large and deep pockets. Many yards won't let owners do their own work, and if they have to pressure wash a ton of muck off your hull you have to pay for disposal of it.

RazNation posted:

Wash and wax hull and deck is a on going thing along with varnish. As long as you keep up with it, you will not get to spend a week sanding and varnishing that freakin teak. :rant:

Keeping a clean boat is my one pet fetish. I don't even allow cardboard boxes aboard the boat. Roaches and other insects love to hide in those. Having good ventilation helps in keeping the dampness....aka....mold from happening. If you open your boat and it smells musty, you have a ventilation issue. If it smells like the Cat Lady's couch, you have a head issue.

Granted you can save money if you do the work yourself but that depends on the yard. Do they allow you to work on your boat after they haul and block it? Or are they the ones that say 'due to insurance, only approved workers allowed'.....no work done by the boat owners? Or you could go to a yard where they just haul and block and you pay for x amount of time on the hard and you do all the work.

Of course, all of these depends on the boat location and other things. If your boat is up north and you have to haul for winter, your costs will run higher than me who keeps the boat in water 24/7/365.

This is just my experience, yours may be different.

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