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In Sweden, everybody drives a Volvo station wagon. Everything is safe and well-structured. No natural disasters, dangerous animals, deadly infectious diseases or even particularly bad traffic. The government looks out for you, you pay your taxes, and you drive a Volvo station wagon. I too used to drive a Volvo station wagon. Not the typical V70, but the slightly smaller V40. Functional, practical, safe, and for what it was, somewhat sporty and fun. However, since I got something fun to drive in summer (a 1997 Mazda MX-5) a bit over a year ago, it was decided that I need to have something more proper to drive during winter. Between roughly october and april, I need something with a roof and capacity to at least fit my hockey gear. I don't often need to move many people around, and when I do I can just borrow one of the many Volvos owned by friends and family. I do however occasionally need to haul lots of stuff around or tow decently heavy trailers. Summer is for having fun, winter is for being practical. So what better vehicle to get than a 4WD pickup truck? Being cheap obviously means going old and shabby. Also don't want a much too big one for parking reasons. Most of the suitable ones were japanese, and I eventually settled on a Nissan King Cab (D21 / Navara / "Hardbody" elsewhere). Found a decent specimen, and since noone in the "stupid questions thread" managed to talk me out of it, I bought it! Since it wasn't really drivable as it stood and about 350km away from where I live, the seller was going to have it shipped to me. It took a while (seller being lazy and me being away), but now it has finally arrived!    It's a 1990, with a Z24 engine (2.4L 4-cylinder SOHC 8-valve), manual transmission. By that year, it seems it should have had a Z24i or even a KA24E, but this thing is somewhat anachronistic in that it has the older carbureted Z24. My only guess is Nissan offloaded their surplus of carbureted stuff in Sweden and other places with lax emissions regulations. Catalytic converters have been required here since 1989 so it has one of those, but no o2 sensor, evap canister, egr or other boring emissions-related stuff. Based on the recent inspection protocols that came with the car, it seems they haven't even done any emissions test (when they do, it has the measured values and the limits it has to pass within, and there's none of that). Even though it looks kind of poo poo, it is in what I judge to be decent mechanical condition. What kills these vehicles here is frame rust, but this one has had some kind of black-goo rustproofing since it was basically new, and I couldn't find anything other than surface rust underneath. Tires are a couple years old, but look to be in good shape. Gearbox and transfer case seem to shift fine, but I haven't been past second gear while in motion. It has body panels from between 3 and 5 vehicles. It started out red, but of that only the cab and drivers side door and fender remain of that color, and the fender has been shabbily painted by someone. The passenger side door+fender and hood are black, the bed is white, and the tailgate is white with some kind of camouflage painted on. At some recent inspection, they changed the color in the registration documents from "red" to "multi-colored".  Bed with checker plate of questionable fitment  Mint interior. Diseased steering wheel. Note rear-view mirror in passenger seat with wunderbäume. Other possible points of interest, perhaps some features of being the royally luxurious King Cab:
There's only a small bunch of things wrong with it. First of all, it doesn't really run. It starts fine, but once it warms up and the automatic choke closes, it runs rough and dies. Apparently typical for a clogged-up carburetor jet. As said it hasn't really been used in a few years, and I noticed the gas tank cap isn't properly on (some lockable kind that doesn't screw tight, and o-ring is cracked). So I guess the fuel is some half-evaporated waterlogged yellow varnish gunk. I'm going to start by draining the old fuel and put in fresh stuff, a new filter and some magic cleaner additive and see if it clears itself up. If not, I just have to take the carburetor apart. While I understand sort of how carbs work, I'm not very familiar with them and would rather not mess with it more than necessary. If I can just get it running decently now, I would prefer to rebuild or even replace the carb when I have a bit more time for it (basically next spring when 2017 MX-5 season starts).  You are dirty. Yes you are. Once it's running decent enough begins the long list of things to do, in approximate order of importance:
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Sep 1, 2016 21:35
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I love it! 
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Sep 1, 2016 21:57
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This is gonna be sweet. I know how I'd build that car here in Canada, but I have no idea how I'd build it in a socialist paradise with somehow even more expensive shipping and a government that pays attention. My first stop would probably be to yank the carb out and throw a cheapo rebuild kit at it, hopefully booking off enough time to do so that I don't end up with an ice cube tray full of tiny carburetor parts and no memory of how to reassemble it four weeks later.
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Sep 1, 2016 22:00
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I would suggest taking the carb apart and cleaning it right off the bat. None of the magic cleaning stuff does anything but relieve your wallet of the weight of cash. You are going to have to do it anyways, so no point in messing about until thats done. And you need to run a thin piece of wire (copper or brass, softer then the jets themselves) or similar through the jets so you actually clean them. Optional is to buy a kit that has new jets, but that seems expensive and unnecessary (unless someone has already "fixed" the jets for you).
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Sep 1, 2016 22:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I know how I'd build that car here in Canada I suspect practical circumstances are somewhat similar, but it has to pass as legal to the totalitarian social-democratic regime and their ruthless car examination agency. Most things I have in mind for it should be within legal limits though, and even if it isn't, as long as it is relatively easy to remove once a year, you know... blindjoe posted:I would suggest taking the carb apart and cleaning it right off the bat. But I want to drive it nooooow..... E: Damnit. Found a rebuild kit on ebay, but it's about $85 shipped, from Australia of all places. ionn fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Sep 1, 2016 |
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Sep 1, 2016 22:06
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I'm beyond jealous of that truck. What a looker!
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Sep 1, 2016 22:09
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ionn posted:E: Damnit. Found a rebuild kit on ebay, but it's about $85 shipped, from Australia of all places. I was gunna say, Australia might be one of your best bets for bits and pieces. Navaras of all vintages are everywhere, also the Datsun 720 and Nissan Nomad (a van) share quite a bit.
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Sep 1, 2016 23:22
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pazrs posted:I was gunna say, Australia might be one of your best bets for bits and pieces. Navaras of all vintages are everywhere, also the Datsun 720 and Nissan Nomad (a van) share quite a bit. Seems like it. Good thing Australia is so conveniently located for getting car parts to northern Europe. I'm guessing the older early 80's trucks only really survived rust death in a warm dry climate, and everything else that still drives in other parts of the world is fuel-injected. I'll just order one, and try the  magic sauce meanwhile, rather do that than nothing. Don't think it's a very good idea to take that carb apart without having a rebuild kit, since the gaskets might just crumble to dust. Replacing the old gas and filter shall be done no matter what.Also rebuilding the carb seems like it would be Super Fun Happy Time in a few easy steps!
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Sep 2, 2016 07:34
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blindjoe posted:I would suggest taking the carb apart and cleaning it right off the bat. If car carbs are anything like bike carbs, you need to strip it down and dunk the whole thing in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with an appropriate solvent. Then of course the turbo 5-pot Volvo swap.
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Sep 2, 2016 08:16
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I gotta say, from the title I was expecting you to have two trucks, and planning to frankenstein two cabs together to make a true king cab. I'm not sure if I'm disappointed, because this will surely be less of a monstrosity than that.Saga posted:If car carbs are anything like bike carbs, you need to strip it down and dunk the whole thing in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with an appropriate solvent. A 5-gallon pail of carb dip would be another good way to go about it, failing that, a bucket of gasoline, failing that, spraying carb cleaner through all the little passages might get you most of the way there, then replace all the gaskets.
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Sep 2, 2016 09:59
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That's awesome! I love hardbodies! My neighbors have an all-black king cab 4x4 with a slight lift and chrome wheels. It is marvelous.
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Sep 2, 2016 12:09
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I love those trucks. Keep posting pics!
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Sep 2, 2016 12:24
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Saga posted:Then of course the turbo 5-pot Volvo swap. Are Volvo parts super freakin' cheap in Sweden? I bet you could partsbin up a decent car like some sort of weird Scandinavian version of the Chebby swap.
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Sep 2, 2016 16:05
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Raluek posted:I gotta say, from the title I was expecting you to have two trucks, and planning to frankenstein two cabs together to make a true king cab. I'm not sure if I'm disappointed, because this will surely be less of a monstrosity than that. I don't have any plans to hack up frames/bodies to make some kind of frankentruck, but I suppose a not-entirely-impossible scenario is getting a spare-parts truck (one of the many with rusted-to-poo poo frames) for a more modern engine or something. Saga posted:Then of course the turbo 5-pot Volvo swap.  I've never done any cross-brand engine swaps (just stuff that would bolt right in), and I would be pretty clueless about bellhousing adapters and whatnot. But if I were to do something like that, a 2.4/2.5L Volvo 5-cylinder would be very appropriate. Seat Safety Switch posted:Are Volvo parts super freakin' cheap in Sweden? I bet you could partsbin up a decent car like some sort of weird Scandinavian version of the Chebby swap. Volvo parts are easier to find than just about anything else and hence cheaper, but I guess parts in general just aren't super cheap here. Wouldn't be too hard to find a 5-cylinder turbo engine pretty cheap. Buy wrecked car, extract engine, save some spare goodies for the two V70's in the immediate family, scrap the rest.
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Sep 2, 2016 18:49
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stevobob posted:I love those trucks. Keep posting pics! Much obliged.  Probably best bit of it. Just a couple small dents, no big deal. The style of the "4X4" is just   The part of the steering wheel hit by bubonic plague. Must replace, or at least hide with a fluffy wheel cover.  Sunroof!   I took the battery out to charge it, and found this nice little job. Unless it can be bent back in a trustworthy manner, I'll need new battery terminals. Would be nice to keep that one since that means I can get the battery out with just a 10mm wrench (the new ones usually are a bit bigger, 13 or so). The car transport guy said it wouldn't start earlier and they had to run the booster pack on it. It did start fine when I tried it though. I didn't find a voltmeter, but that little indicator windows says it's low. Since I don't know anything about the battery other than it looks a few years old and most likely is, I will replace it before it gets cold.  Sticker under the hood says I have a 3.0L V6. Too bad the engine didn't come with the sticker.
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Sep 2, 2016 20:17
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I know we have lots of these in our junkyards, but I don't know how much it would cost to mail you a nicer Hardbody steering wheel. Where did this car come from originally? I wonder if there might be more part stock at the dealership/warehouse it was sold from as Nissan tends to have a pretty 'sticky' parts inventory in North America.
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Sep 2, 2016 20:24
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ionn posted:
That terminal is broken at on the bottom edge which would explain the screw. Its going to need replaced.
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Sep 3, 2016 00:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I know we have lots of these in our junkyards, but I don't know how much it would cost to mail you a nicer Hardbody steering wheel. Probably waymore than it could really be worth. Seat Safety Switch posted:Where did this car come from originally? It was sold new in Sweden, to a flooring company in Hudiksvall (did some archeology in the papers that came with it). I guess I can check if the dealer has any 26 year old parts in stock... Veeb0rg posted:Its going to need replaced. "Need" is a very strong word. We shall see about that.
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Sep 3, 2016 07:59
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I'm just gonna go a ahead and accept part of the blame/claim some of the glory for this project. Since I'm firmly rooted in a single car household Volvo V70 family situation, I launched a campaign of subtle persuasion and manipulation to get my dear brother to buy my dream car. I even sent him the link to the advert for this very vehicle, discreetly camouflaged among adverts for lesser specimen, gently prodding him towards its purchase. Everything is proceeding as I hoped. It shall be glorious - I will help make it so. We will wrench and ride and haul things together, and good times will be had inshallah. For what it's worth the ozone generator works really well with nasty car perfume residue in my experience. Soap, water and a wet vac will do the real interior cleaning though. I will lend a hand with the scrubbing. My opinion is that the truck needs some extra lights, a set of snow chains and a good tow strap before winter comes in earnest. The rest can evolve over time. I think it was Kastein who had some very strong and seemingly well formed opinions about battery terminals?
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Sep 3, 2016 15:30
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Ken's opinions boil down to use marine battery terminals made of brass, and not the stupid screw-through-pinchy-clamp kind. Get the bolt-on kind and crimp a lug to the end of your existing battery cable with a good ratcheting crimper. I bet with Penta Marine around it shouldn't be too hard to find a bunch of cheap boat shops. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 3, 2016 |
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Sep 3, 2016 15:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I know we have lots of these in our junkyards, but I don't know how much it would cost to mail you a nicer Hardbody steering wheel. I know for a fact that twenty years ago you could walk into a U.S. postal office and ship heavy packages to Sweden by surface shipment (i.e. boats, not planes) at a relatively low price. I 've done so twice and the parcels arrived in like half a year tops.
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Sep 3, 2016 15:37
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ionn posted:What kills these vehicles here is frame rust, but this one has had some kind of black-goo rustproofing since it was basically new, and I couldn't find anything other than surface rust underneath. Muahahaha
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Sep 3, 2016 15:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Ken's opinions boil down to use marine battery terminals made of brass, and not the stupid screw-through-pinchy-clamp kind. One of the primary rules for this project is "if it can be bought at Biltema, there has to be a very good reason for getting it from somewhere else", so I will go with a pair of these terminals. I got a pair of them just a couple weeks ago for a boat motor. They appear to be brass-plated steel, and in fact the nut is 10mm after all. The marine ones with a screw terminal are nice, but they're three times the cost for half as many. Typical for anything labeled as "marine parts". I'm away from home this weekend and won't get anything done on it, but I'll be bringing some tools and parts to make an attempt at getting it going. This weekend, I'm prepping some stuff on my MX-5 for an upcoming trackday, and trying to get said boat motor (a Volvo B20) to run right. Just had a look in the manual. If I were to change the transmission fluid in all four places, I need 10.3 liters of it. E: Seems the transfer case is supposed to have ATF, the differentials GL-5, and the transmission GL-4. So I can't just go buy a big jug of the same stuff. ionn fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Sep 3, 2016 |
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Sep 3, 2016 16:18
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GL-4 is getting kinda hard to find too. GL-5 doesn't play nice with the synchros in the gearbox.
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Sep 3, 2016 22:00
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The synthetic 75W-90 Biltema stuff supposedly meets both GL-4 and GL-5 specs. Says it's "not aggressive to so called yellow metals", I suppose that means synchros. Though as long as fluid level is appropriate and it's not horrible black gunk, I don't really need to fix what isn't broken.
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Sep 3, 2016 22:29
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ionn posted:One of the primary rules for this project is "if it can be bought at Biltema, there has to be a very good reason for getting it from somewhere else", so I will go with a pair of these terminals. I got a pair of them just a couple weeks ago for a boat motor. They appear to be brass-plated steel, and in fact the nut is 10mm after all. The marine ones with a screw terminal are nice, but they're three times the cost for half as many. Typical for anything labeled as "marine parts". Those terminals are great till the wire inside the bolted down clamp joint corrodes (and it will) and suddenly your electrical system goes dead or has very odd intermittent issues with power supply. E: it's getting to the point that if a vehicle is 10+ years old and has issues like that it's the first thing I recommend people look at. I learned this the first time I saw them in use, when a friend had a 92 XJ that would occasionally randomly die on him, whole electrical system not just the engine. Ssometimes it wouldn't start either and all other systems that worked fine till he tried to start would be dead after. He thought it was the NSS (wrong) and I had no idea but offered to take a look at it. I showed up, he was inside, went inside, he told me the symptoms and watched from the window as I walked out, got in, turned it on, turned the headlights on, hit the starter, everything died, popped the hood... scratched my head, poked the positive battery terminal and it came back to life instantly. He said it looked like I was some sort of a wizard or something, which couldn't be further from the truth, I just thought the terminal looked lovely and got lucky poking it. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 18:44
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kastein posted:Those terminals are great I think I can fit some kind of crimped-on thing in there, or if not, get something better later. For now that $5 terminal (for a pair, but I just need the negative) will do to get poo poo going. You should have seen what we did to that boat motor a couple weeks ago, also a day when I was without terminals. Stripped 4-5 cm of cable, wound around battery poles and attached using hose clamps. Picked up some stuff here to have a go at the fuel issue when I get home, to drain and replace poo poo and apply magic fluid. If that doesn't help, I'll just have the carb off. Even without the rebuild kit (which is on it's way from AU), it seems it might be doable to just take off the float bowl cover and clean the jets from there. If I don't take the whole thing apart, I don't have to deal with most of the odd gaskets. If that doesn't work, truck still wouldn't be that much less useful with a leaking float bowl than it is now. In that case, I'll just have my brother come over so we can sit in it parked and listen to early 90's music and drink folköl (2.8% ABV beer).
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Sep 4, 2016 21:06
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This is one of my favorite small trucks and the fact that it looks like a harlequin VW Golf makes it all the better. Get it rolling well, fix it up and drive it till the sun sets.
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Sep 5, 2016 04:13
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Awesome truck. You are going to be in for a world of
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Sep 5, 2016 06:42
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ionn posted:E: Seems the transfer case is supposed to have ATF, the differentials GL-5, and the transmission GL-4. So I can't just go buy a big jug of the same stuff. Do you have access to this? It's what I use in my Corvair. Not sure why its 35 bux a quart on Amazon for me, though... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C43BLLS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Sep 5, 2016 06:45
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Well, truck, it seems we have to start this relationship out slowly and get to know each other over time. I'll rebuild that carb of yours if that's what you need. Spent the evening after work poking around under the hood. Hooked up the battery (which after a good charge seems to be doing fine so far). Pumped out the old fuel, put in a new filter and a couple of bits of fuel hose. Of the three screws holding the float bowl cover (with combination flatt and "japanese-almost-philips" heads), one was easy to open, one was stuck (damaged it slightly but might do better with different tools), and one was a bit too awkward to get to. Will likely have to pull the whole carb out to do anything with it, and that will have to wait until I got the rebuild kit (which I hope to have by end of next week). Took this picture along with a few others mostly to have some documentation on which of the various small air hoses goes where (I have no idea what they're supposed to do). You can also see what appears to me to be a fuel return line, right below the hose coming from the fuel filter. Fuel return line, from a carburetor? WTF is up with that?  Anyway, after doing that it started and idled pretty well. I let it run for a while, still good after 15-ish minutes. Drove it up and down the street (live on a ~100m cul-de-sac), went fine, so I got cocky and took it down the road. Got one block, and engine started sputtering. I turned off and ended up diagonally across a parking lot with one wheel on the grass, and engine refusing to get me anywhere. I could start it and just barely keep it running around 1500-2000rpm by fiddling with the throttle, but just any small amount of load and it would die right away. This is about how it was when I bought it, I just thought it had warmed up more than it did then and still behaved fine, but apparently not. So I got nowhere. I almost had my brother drive across town with his towing rig (the ubiquitous V70), but first I had a stupid idea to try. When I put the air filter on earlier, I had noticed that the engine would rev up if I manually choked it by putting the hand over the intake. So, I tried this:  Didn't run very well with my redneck choke, but enough that I could move the truck back to an on-street parking spot. Not a spot really big enough for my mighty machine, and it was a bit tricky to do without power steering, but it'll do.  West SAAB Story posted:Swap you rednecked Nissan parts for SAAB parts. Deal! Commodore_64 posted:Do you have access to this? It's what I use in my Corvair. Not sure why its 35 bux a quart on Amazon for me, though... Yikes, that seems expensive. Also Amazon to Sweden means international shipping costs. If I decide to change the transmission fluid (will try to sample it and check level and condition first), I'll just go with the cheap "combo" GL4/GL5 stuff for less than a third of that.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:55
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ionn posted:Well, truck, it seems we have to start this relationship out slowly and get to know each other over time. I'll rebuild that carb of yours if that's what you need. Last time I bought it, it was more like $12-$13 a quart. It may be a supply thing on amazon, see if you can get it locally maybe.
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Sep 7, 2016 06:10
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Commodore_64 posted:see if you can get it locally maybe. Extremely unlikely. Pennzoil just does not exist here.
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Sep 7, 2016 07:27
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ionn posted:Extremely unlikely. Pennzoil just does not exist here. You are one of the chosen.
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Sep 7, 2016 07:46
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Oh dear I have no idea what I'm doing hope I haven't hosed it up, Part Next So this evening i decided to have a go at seeing what I can access, and maybe get the carb out. The two bolts to the front are easy enough, one on the rear is at least accessible if I remove the throttle cable bracket, but the one closest to the engine block and firewall puzzles me how I shall ever get to it. I cant really see it from any angle, short if climbing up on the engine and sticking my head down behind the carb. I can barely put a finger on it, or lightly touch it with a wrench with no room to turn it. Will have to get a short thin angled 12mm wrench if I'm ever going to get it out. Some more directed violence won over the three screws holding the float bowl cover (two of them badly damaged, but it's an easy replacement), so I went in there instead. Got the float and needle out without seemingly losing anything, and cleaned out the jets with carb cleaner and a bit of old guitar string. Not sure how much I got out, but I could spray carb cleaner out through both nozzles. Gasket wasn't in great shape, but it held up. After reassembling I started it up, and it idled high, about 2500 rpm. At least there were no fuel leaks. Stayed there even after warming it up. It was even higher at first, but I slackened the throttle cable (someone had definitely been messing with that using the wrong tools). Didn't try driving it. When I shut it down, it dieseled for a good 5 seconds. Soooo... I probably hosed something up when I was in there, and I'm not sure what to even look for. I'm not good friends with carbs in general, and definitely not this one.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:48
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I'm betting on a new and exciting vacuum leak.  Or a sticking choke. I assume you already tried blipping the throttle? Did you loosen any of the carb mounting bolts before realizing you couldn't get to the 4th one?There may be an idle adjustment screw somewhere too.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:26
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Blipping the throttle does nothing except of course rev up a bit more. I did loosen two of the bolts but retightened them, and the carb never moved off its gasket. It has some kind of automatic choke, seems to be controlled by both a vacuum thing and an electric thing. Not sure how it works. A couple of days ago I did see it move on its own (opened when warm) and it moves easily enough when I poke the lever. I didn't find any adjustment screws anywhere, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. There is a distinct sound of something vacuum leaking when it runs, but it sounds about the same as before and I thought it was mostly from the lovely air cleaner thing that doesn't quite sit straight. Might be it barely ran before with a clogged-up nozzle only thanks to that vacuum leak or something... Shall have a closer look with more daylight and soberness. E: Just tried starting it up before heading out for other stuff. Cold, it now idles at about 4000. If I stick a finger down the carb and open up the choke it goes down to about 3000. ionn fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 06:43
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A lot of chokes will have a fast idle cam that increases the idle throttle when the choke is closed. Might have something to do with it.
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Sep 10, 2016 08:57
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Possibly. I'll have a stab at the idle adjuster things, hoping for lots of luck on the matter. Knowing not much about carbs in general, this one is utterly vexing and seems to have shitloads of strange features on it. It appears to be a Hitachi DFP384 (some version of it), found some random bits of documentation on it but nothing with quite the same "electromechanical gadgets as mine. Found some exploded view, there's only 104 parts to it. I had a closer look at the fuel lines yesterday, and it seems after the fuel filter there's just a plain T, where one end goes into the carb float bowl and the other just goes back to presumably the fuel tank. Is this something commonly done for electric fuel pumps and carburetors? (I'm beginning to wonder how much it would take to EFI-convert this thing...)
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Sep 10, 2016 23:26
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Raluek posted:A lot of chokes will have a fast idle cam that increases the idle throttle when the choke is closed. Might have something to do with it. Yeah, but 4000 RPM  - a cold idle on a carb should be more like 2500, mayyyybe 3000 at most, and it should drop down to ~700-800 once warm.ionn, you shouldn't be hearing much of a hissing at all - a slight hiss is normal without the air cleaner on, but you shouldn't really be able to hear it much over a warm engine (and not at all while it's on high idle). If you can get your hands on a propane torch, opening it up slightly and waving it (unlit!) around near the carb base, vacuum lines, etc should help you narrow down vacuum leaks (the RPMs will jump up a bit when it sucks in the propane). If you can't get a propane torch, then a can of carb cleaner will do the same - just be careful and make sure you don't hit the exhaust manifold with carb cleaner. A noticeable hissing is going to be right at the carb, or on the brake booster line (or maybe the brake booster itself). Also, is the secondary closed or open? If you're right on it being a Hitachi, it should have a vacuum secondary - it should stay closed unless you're driving and stand on the throttle. It's possible that the carb base is warped too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 07:32
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