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Ok, this is cool, but as with any other heavily-modded E30 M3, I have to ask; wouldn't it be cheaper to sell the M3 shell and start with a cooking model E30? There is a serious price discrepancy.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:18
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NitroSpazzz posted:Oh it definitely would save a bit but this thing fell into my lap for basically the price of suspension and the cage.
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Sep 13, 2016 18:41
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Ventil zeitliche anpassung elektronische steuerung gerade gekickt im yah.
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Sep 13, 2016 23:24
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I posted that on Facebook and I am highly disappointed only one car guy got it. Not disappointed a bunch of women worked it out
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Sep 15, 2016 00:59
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NitroSpazzz posted:along with likely a 320is badge
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Sep 16, 2016 23:58
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NitroSpazzz posted:We didn't get the S14 powered 320is in the US...or a M20 version. We didn't get poo poo! Then you have other regional oddities like the South African 325iS actually being a 2.7, or the whole M40 vs M42 thing with 318i later models.
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Sep 17, 2016 00:48
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Do you really need to worry about it too much? It's not like it's anything structural, so if the shape fits neatly into the internal profile of the sump, it shouldn't need anything too heavy-duty to hold it in position. Even pretty poor tack welds should be just fine.extreme_accordion posted:Gefahr Verteiler Klaus!
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Sep 20, 2016 17:50
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Cakefool posted:Bigass 80's power bulge in
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Sep 27, 2016 19:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Blown motor RX8
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Oct 15, 2016 11:48
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mekilljoydammit posted:It amuses me the extent to which E30s are sort of the sacred cow. The S14 was cool because it was amazingly close to a race engine in a production car for the time, and the overall combination was good, but FFS it's just a car, and objectively one with all sorts of flaws. In NitroSpazzz's case, it makes sense, as it's an already-modified, engineless car that he got at a really good price. But if you were to say "I want to build a modified E30", you'd always start with a basic model, as with any of the "interesting" ones, you're paying a premium for a load of stuff you're just going to throw away. Or in the M3's case, stuff which can potentially make life difficult for you (e.g. the non-standard windscreen). Also, with some cars, I do understand why people tend to get upset about people "ruining" them. There's a lot of stuff out there where it's like with AE86s now - a good, straight, original model is a complete pain in the arse to find, and it gets especially annoying when the modified ones all seem to be done atrociously, with little real variation in the ghastly mods they choose..
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Nov 25, 2016 18:24
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Jomo posted:People don't tend to have a good perspective on how the "lifecycle" (for lack of a better word) for enthusiast cars works. I remember back in high-school, 10-12 years ago, some of the guys I knew crashed & wrote-off a good dozen or so AE70 and AE85's between them, back when you could still get them for $500-$1500. And now they're the same guys you meet at car shows who are all about "keeping it straight and clean" because the values have gone up by a factor of 10+, the irony being that they're the ones who caused the scarcity but don't realise it. But yes, I love this thread, even if it does remind me I'm really letting my E30 go to seed in a bad way.
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Nov 26, 2016 02:34
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cakesmith handyman posted:That's a wagon right? When did it last move? On the road? 2004.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:52
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I say go with whichever variation of gauges you feel is easiest to read. My feeling would be a combination of clear analogue ones for the really important stuff, and everything else through a multi-function display of some kind.
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Jan 13, 2017 14:36
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I think I must be missing something. From the master outlet to the tee or distribution block etc, why not just use a hardline with a 3/8"-24 fitting on that end and an M10 on the other?
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Jun 24, 2017 20:19
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NitroSpazzz posted:Exactly what I realized a couple minutes after posting. Just need to find a fitting that will seal since I think the outlet is just a hole with no flare to seal but a crush washer or something should do the trick.
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Jun 24, 2017 20:35
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Yeah, don't forget you get 2 lengths of threaded fitting, so try one on its own first, and if it bottoms out the hex to the top of the cylinder before hitting the bottom of the hole, you probably need a longer one.
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Jun 24, 2017 21:05
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Why not ask AP?
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Jul 4, 2017 22:49
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Whose rotors are they? How much are they quoting for shipping? Could one of us send them out to you for less?
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Jul 5, 2017 18:40
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:51 |
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If you want anything AP, give Techcraft Motorsport in Warwick a try. I do have an email for the guy there which I can PM you if you want, but his number is 01926 403721, just account for the time difference if you call. Small company so bit more personal to deal with. I'm afraid that trying to send lumps of metal across the atlantic is always going to be somewhat eyewatering cost-wise, though on the flipside you shouldn't have to pay our 20% sales tax. Certainly, it seems that what you really need is someone in the US who makes blanks which they'll drill to suit for you, even if it's a bit pricey, it might well be less than what you're looking at here.
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Jul 5, 2017 21:14
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