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Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Been going buckwild since I got (most) of my printing issues addressed on my Photon S.

Some 6, 12, 20mm vehicles and some "Space Battle" minis for a non-SW Legion project I got going on.

I also got a small pack of the March to Hell wwII figures and I'm mixed in the results. It's fine for 15mm or 12mm like I planned on doing, but the figures are just way too chunky for anything larger. Even upscaling to 20mm was just too weird to sit next to my existing collection. Maybe if you were wholly using those figures it would work, which 60 euro-bucks for a full army's worth of stls isn't a bad idea, but even next to some of the more heroic scaled manufacturers like Warlord they would stand out.

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The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
That's one of the things I'm always concerned about. Different creators can have very different styles, and trying to use multiple creators in one project it is very hard to get a cohesive look.

Side note, I think I'm in love with openlock. I've been printing up the demon cathedral stuff they have as a base for some Word Bearers for a small game and man they look great and they go together so nicely. A lot of the modular stuff I've used in the past felt very flimsy when it was connected but these are very solid. I'll post some pictures when I get a few more pieces printed.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Verisimilidude posted:

I've been really busy this weekend.







x-post from the minipainting thread

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
Anybody use this 3D XTC stuff to smooth out minis? It's a two-part filler epoxy that you sand to a matte finish after about 3 hours. It looks like it can remove the striations from FDM printing pretty well and the price isn't that bad? I'm also looking at other ways to finish PLA models. I did print out these voodoo stones at 100% infill by doing the top layer hack and it worked out okay but I do want to see what I can do to further improve the print itself, and also probably print it with less infill. I suspect that if the external shell is a bit thicker than default settings, I can get some positive results, and pre-supported the bottoms can be sanded down while still achieving pretty decent results.

I also looked at some other finishing methods including dry/wet sanding, applying polyurethane in a thin coat (same principle more or less as a thin epoxy finish like XTC), and something new, annealing, which also has a side effect of strengthening but shrinking models. Since none of these models are going to be used for any type of critical work but are going to be roughly handled and stored, I suspect getting some test batches ready then annealing them by just popping them into the oven for an hour at low temperature may have some interesting results.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

aldantefax posted:

Anybody use this 3D XTC stuff to smooth out minis? It's a two-part filler epoxy that you sand to a matte finish after about 3 hours. It looks like it can remove the striations from FDM printing pretty well and the price isn't that bad? I'm also looking at other ways to finish PLA models. I did print out these voodoo stones at 100% infill by doing the top layer hack and it worked out okay but I do want to see what I can do to further improve the print itself, and also probably print it with less infill. I suspect that if the external shell is a bit thicker than default settings, I can get some positive results, and pre-supported the bottoms can be sanded down while still achieving pretty decent results.

I also looked at some other finishing methods including dry/wet sanding, applying polyurethane in a thin coat (same principle more or less as a thin epoxy finish like XTC), and something new, annealing, which also has a side effect of strengthening but shrinking models. Since none of these models are going to be used for any type of critical work but are going to be roughly handled and stored, I suspect getting some test batches ready then annealing them by just popping them into the oven for an hour at low temperature may have some interesting results.

I’ve used similar to hide gaps on a helmet I printed, but I’ve never done anything like it on something detailed.

People have done pretty good videos on different finishing methods but I don’t know if any apply to minis all that well. A lot of them are for large less detailed prints you want to get smooth

Darius099
Dec 18, 2005

Ogion went on a halfmile or so, and said at last, 'To hear, one must be silent'.
Does anybody have recommendations on Patreons/subscriptions to support for 3d printing? In particular I'd really love ones focused more on bits, like bookshelves, tables, lanterns, shields, etc. Pieces I can print for doing my own kitbashing, basing, and terrain creation.

I'm already part of these and so far I could recommend them:
  • Loot
  • Great Grimoire
  • Cyber-Forge Miniatures (Unit9 is probably better though)
  • White Werewolf Tavern
  • The Printing Goes Ever On
  • Archvillain Games

Darius099 fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Apr 11, 2021

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




I am now the proud owner of a Phrozen Mini 4K resin printer. It's an easy setup, and ventilation was just a matter or pointing the printer exhaust at my airbrush fume hood. My first batch of three runs was mostly successful. I had some issues with the base plates not adhering, fixed with sanding the build plate, and some where I got a base plate but nothing past that. Still, I got 13 nice prints of counts-as WH40K Imperial Guard from the Azadi Death Front Kickstarter. I'm sure I can work out the print reliability issues by adjusting slicing settings and resins. The quality of the prints is amazing, so I'm happy already.





aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
What resin are you using, and could you elaborate more on this setup? I do want to pick up a resin printer and MyMiniFactory has a deal for premium subscribers on getting a 4k or mini Phrozen, but since I'm in an apartment with pets I'm super leery about any toxic chems and such to the point where I don't even run my airbrush inside.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



mllaneza posted:

I am now the proud owner of a Phrozen Mini 4K resin printer. It's an easy setup, and ventilation was just a matter or pointing the printer exhaust at my airbrush fume hood. My first batch of three runs was mostly successful. I had some issues with the base plates not adhering, fixed with sanding the build plate, and some where I got a base plate but nothing past that. Still, I got 13 nice prints of counts-as WH40K Imperial Guard from the Azadi Death Front Kickstarter. I'm sure I can work out the print reliability issues by adjusting slicing settings and resins. The quality of the prints is amazing, so I'm happy already.







Nice! I got the same printer, currently printing at 0.035 layer height with 3s for layer time and 40-45s for base time. I have far fewer failed prints now!

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




aldantefax posted:

What resin are you using, and could you elaborate more on this setup? I do want to pick up a resin printer and MyMiniFactory has a deal for premium subscribers on getting a 4k or mini Phrozen, but since I'm in an apartment with pets I'm super leery about any toxic chems and such to the point where I don't even run my airbrush inside.

Those were with the water washable model gray resin, and default settings. I'm going to play with settings, and then try the regular resin when my bottle of the industrial strength alcohol shows up.

Fumes are a concern, that is toxic and you're going to want to keep pets clear of it. My fume hood for my airbrush is a pretty good extractor, soI just pointed the printer exhaust at the front of the hood and that takes care of the fumes during printing. When there are uncured prints out, they stay under the hood until I can get them under the nail light.

You'll have fume issues with any resin printer. If you can arrange a workspace in front of a window, then a fume hood should do for both airbrush and the printer. That's not counting any pet concerns of course.

I'd recommend a 4K printer if you go resin, you'll pay about a $110 premium, but the higher resolution has to be worth it. The fabric folds on these prints are as good as any cast mini I've ever seen. Ditto for, say, the teeth on chainswords.


Verisimilidude posted:

Nice! I got the same printer, currently printing at 0.035 layer height with 3s for layer time and 40-45s for base time. I have far fewer failed prints now!


I will give those a shot and see how they go, thank you.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
I'm printing a ton of "definitely-not-space-marines" in Epic scale for decorating my Adeptus Titanicus bases. I almost want to play Epic now, since printing up a giant army takes no time at all.

Signal
Dec 10, 2005

Electric Hobo posted:

I'm printing a ton of "definitely-not-space-marines" in Epic scale for decorating my Adeptus Titanicus bases. I almost want to play Epic now, since printing up a giant army takes no time at all.


There's no reason not to, epic is great and proxy stls are plentiful

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


I am attempting to run Stonehell as a fully tabletop mapped dungeon and I don't think it would be possible without my Ender 3 Pro cranking out dungeon tiles while I'm at work. Really excited about this.

DisposableHero
Feb 25, 2005
bah weep granna weep ninny bong
Thanks for this thread. It helps. I originally had tried to dive into 3d printing using the more general purpose 3D printing thread in hobbies but felt like there was too much to consider. Having a topic focused thread is great because it gives me a single print type to focus on and figure out before branching out to other things.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Does anyone have good recs for complete/mostly complete printable armies for games like 40k and fantasy/aos? I want to start a new printing project after this is done and it would be great to have a fully printed army

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Verisimilidude posted:

Does anyone have good recs for complete/mostly complete printable armies for games like 40k and fantasy/aos? I want to start a new printing project after this is done and it would be great to have a fully printed army

Lost Kingdom has like 90% of the Seraphon range and almost all of them are better sculpts than GW.

Maker's Cult has sets for two different awesome Guard regiments and a huge number of vehicles for them, again, great sculpts.

Here are some of my Krieg duders from MC:


Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Apr 12, 2021

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
OnePageRules' patreon / shop has versions of
(some) Space Marines
Sisters of Battle
Necrons
Tyranids
Fantasy Dwarfs
Tomb Kings
Lizardmen
(some) Skaven
and I think now they are working on some weird steampunk Empire mishmash and Demons.

Here's their free model page to give it a shot. They have a lot more on their MyMiniFactory page.

Also this guy on Thingiverse has a shitload of 40k designs for free.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

Verisimilidude posted:

Does anyone have good recs for complete/mostly complete printable armies for games like 40k and fantasy/aos? I want to start a new printing project after this is done and it would be great to have a fully printed army

I really like one page rules.

They have a pretty cool stuff you could use necron and tyrannid proxies

Edit: beaten

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Fyi OnePageRules has a 70% off sale going on through the 17th, code TAKEITALL on mmf.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
Printing up some of the openlock stuff on printablescenery as a ruined cathedral base for a word bearers force I'm putting together. Really like how these go together.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


i just got my printer. test file getting churned out as i type!

so i'm looking through myminifactory for some models to print and, uh, i guess 3d modellers sure are horny :stare:

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
The AC has been busted at my apartment since Tuesday so I have been holding off on printing anything, but I did get one of those magnetic spring steel sheets that you can just pop prints off of as well as a bunch of new PLA and HTPLA to print ABS-like parts without ABS-like fumes. Just gotta get the bed re-leveled and then we'll be in business!

I also am probably going to break out another 3d printer from the garage and then start getting that set up and online, then begin test prints with that for PLA only. I may need to service or replace the nozzle, but I got spare PTFE tubing and at least one more nozzle that's brand new.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


i bet that no-one has made a dumber printing mistake than i did over the weekend

went to clean out the vat, so i got a funnel and the original bottle to pour the excess, thought to myself “hmm it’s a bit dark here in the garage” and took it outside to pour it instead :cripes:

fortunately i noticed the skin forming almost straight away so i got it back indoors and was able to hack the hardened top layer off easy enough. god drat i am a dummy

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

i bet that no-one has made a dumber printing mistake than i did over the weekend

went to clean out the vat, so i got a funnel and the original bottle to pour the excess, thought to myself “hmm it’s a bit dark here in the garage” and took it outside to pour it instead :cripes:

fortunately i noticed the skin forming almost straight away so i got it back indoors and was able to hack the hardened top layer off easy enough. god drat i am a dummy
I like this, because it wasn't me who did it, even though it easily could have been.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
I don't own a 3D printer and don't have space for one. Is there a reasonable way to get single print custom stuff that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

DisposableHero
Feb 25, 2005
bah weep granna weep ninny bong
I have an FDM printer since I do a large variety of stuff and don't plan to get a resin printer.

I have gotten decent mini results out of it. But even bumping the size of standard minis up 15% or so gets quite a lot nicer results. If I plan to put together enough minis, ground scatter, etc am I going to eventually regret just making everything a little bigger?

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

Nebalebadingdong posted:

I don't own a 3D printer and don't have space for one. Is there a reasonable way to get single print custom stuff that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

Look for a local 3D printing Facebook group. A tabletop gaming club near me also has printers available to it's members.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

jesus WEP posted:

i just got my printer. test file getting churned out as i type!

so i'm looking through myminifactory for some models to print and, uh, i guess 3d modellers sure are horny :stare:

I'm convinced it's a legal requirement for any 3d modeling software that you must at some point produce at least 1 titty model.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


oh yeah i got a sexy necromancer ready to go dont worry

Here is my first print - a Viking bust. I guess I did kind of a lovely job cleaning the torso before curing because there’s white residue along the bottom. Is this salvageable? Will the point of a hobby knife remove the worst of it? Does it mostly get obscured by primer?

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
The frosty white stuff is resin/ipa that didn't get completely cleaned off before curing - shouldn't be visible at all after priming. After cleaning my prints off with alcohol I give them a rinse and scrub in some water to make sure it's completely clean, that seems to take care of the frosting.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


yeah i scrubbed them with ipa, then they spent some time in an ultrasonic cleaner, then a final scrub with some warm soapy water. i probably did a shoddy job with the ipa and then the other steps didn’t do much where i missed

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
I highly recommend that anyone printing resin should get an ultrasonic cleaner. I got one cheap off harbor freight and after a 3-5 minute cycle everything comes out nice and clean. I fill it with water and put whatever cleaning solution I'm using, usually simple green, in a little ziploc with the mini so that I only have to dispose of that instead of the whole tank. Works great and it's no involvement from me once it is running so I usually take the time to clean up my workspace while I wait.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

jesus WEP posted:

yeah i scrubbed them with ipa, then they spent some time in an ultrasonic cleaner, then a final scrub with some warm soapy water. i probably did a shoddy job with the ipa and then the other steps didn’t do much where i missed

What percent alcohol were you using? One of my big reasons to switch to simple green was I couldn't find high enough percent with everyone buying it up last year to disinfect with.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I've been using LAs Awesome Cleaner from the dollar store, diluted to 50% with water. Works great and super cheap.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


The Baumann posted:

What percent alcohol were you using? One of my big reasons to switch to simple green was I couldn't find high enough percent with everyone buying it up last year to disinfect with.
99. i think it was definitely a lovely cleaning job on the torso because all of the other parts of the model are pristine

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
I use acetone for cleaning. I just swish the print around in two baths of it and it's super clean. It's cheap, but smells pretty bad.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

jesus WEP posted:

yeah i scrubbed them with ipa, then they spent some time in an ultrasonic cleaner, then a final scrub with some warm soapy water. i probably did a shoddy job with the ipa and then the other steps didn’t do much where i missed

I just put everything into a old marmelade jar filled with IPA and swish it around until my arm gets tired and then rinse it off with hot water. Works wonders. I replace the IPA every now and again when it gets super grungy.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Gonna attempt my first 'big' resin print tomorrow. Outside of increasing supports, hollowing + drain holes, and maybe slowing the lift speed down is there anything else I should consider?

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
Maybe bump up the exposure time for the first few layers? Other than that seems like it shouldn't have too many serious problems.

Good luck with it! And share pics if it comes out good

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Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW




Tried my first overnight print. It, uh, didn’t go so well.

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