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Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.


Welcome to the Warhammer 40,000 thread! Check out the previous thread here.

What is Warhammer 40,000?
Warhammer 40,000 (aka 40k aka Warhams) is a tabletop miniatures wargame created by Games Workshop set in the far-off forty-first millennium. It has over 40 years of rulebooks, miniatures, novels, video games, and death metal set in its expansive universe. In 2023, Games Workshop released the game's 10th Edition, improving on the already well-received 9th Edition with cleaner/simplified rules and a greater focus on achieving tactical objectives.

Who is Games Workshop?
Games Workshop are the games company miniatures company evil empire corporate entitity who create the game and the miniatures. Since the 70s they’ve been making models and rules almost entirely for their own games, and for a long time were seen as an obstinate ivory tower who didn’t know what was best for the game. More recently they’ve turned over a new leaf and begun interacting with the community and treating their customers better. While they’re not perfect, it’s a marked improvement.

The Setting


In the grim darkness of the far future, there is only war (and yet more skulls). The 40k setting is one of the more compelling aspects of the game. The Imperium of Man stretches across the stars, and is a nightmare future where chances are pretty good you’ll get born in a sewer, rise up to become a lobotomized cyborg factory worker, and then have your skull turned into a little robot that carries toilet paper. It’s a cartoonishly bleak backdrop for a game where giant men in giant armour hit each other with chainsaw swords. Humanity is beset on all sides by aliens, traitors, daemons, and bureaucratic incompetence, and every day is a struggle for survival.

The Horus Heresy
The Horus heresy was a galactic civil war taking place 10,000 years before the current Warhammer 40K timeline. During this time, half of the Space Marine Legions fell to Chaos and half stayed loyal. These grudges and old rivalries still fuel the narrative 10,000 years later. There is a separate game system for the Horus Heresy that is not compatible with 10th Edition Warhammer 40K.
There are also a large number of novels covering this setting. More on that later!

The Armies
There are a buttload of armies in this game, and chances are pretty good there’s one that’ll suit your playstyle. Whether you want giant supersoldiers with the best equipment available, or hordes of ravening aliens that blanket the table in models, there’s probably something for you!

THE IMPERIUM OF MAN



Imagine if humanity made all the worst decisions it could’ve made and became the absolute worst version of itself it could ever be. It is a vast Empire with countless worlds and Trillions of souls within it. However, it is a religiously Fanatic, unbelievably oppressive, Xenophobic, fascist closed minded civilization driven mad by the horrors of the galaxy and chose to become the abyss that stares back. It is the worst place you can ever be born in as a normal human, a life of misery, toil and death and if you’re lucky your soul wont be eaten by demons.

But GOD drat do they look cool and metal as hell!

Mankind has expanded to become an imperceivable vast Empire with countless worlds and billions of souls within it. The only thing these worlds and people all have in common is their (enforced by the point of a gun and the loving embrace of the Inquisition) veneration of the immortal Emperor as a god (something he didnt want because he hated all religion), who sits on his Golden Throne on Terra, a mortally wounded giant husk of a man with god-like powers, his psychic light being the only thing that allows humanity to travel the stars, because the only way they can get from one planet to another is by travelling through the ‘warp’ a dimensional tunnel made from the ‘Hellraiser’ dimension, imagine if you had to ride a boat in an ocean that’s made of nothing but man-eating sharks and Sharknados, and the emperor is the only Lighthouse you can use to navigate it. Oh and you have to sacrifice a thousand psykers souls a day to keep that lighthouse working.

Although Ironically, being entrapped on his throne for 10,000 years has led to him being ‘elevated’ into some form of godhood, and currently in the lore, something is stirring in the golden throne…

As of 10th edition, in the Lore, the imperium is in deeper poo poo than it’s ever been before, a giant warp rift has split the galaxy and the imperium in half, the bottom is run by the central government of Imperium is governed by the recently revived Primarch Roboute Guilliman and the high lords of Terra. The top half is currently cut off and fending for themselves, however, with the return of the dark angels primarch Lion El’Jonson, the north of the imperium is fighting back bigtime.

humanity is in the process of re-connecting these halves with the mighty indomitus crusade, a vast effort to fight back and re-connect the imperium as a whole, to try and revive this dying empire before it’s too late.

Defended by the Mighty Space Marines, shadowy Inquisition , devout sisters of battle, mysterious Adeptus Mechanicus, and the endless armies of the Imperial Guard. Humanity marches ever forward, raging against the dying of the light, with no other goals than to survive to see the next war and defeat the next monster.

But with 10th edition, a new danger approaches, a shadow in the warp, a giant maw of endless hunger and horror approaches, the Tyranids (extra galactic bio-horrors who eat everything living) are launching their biggest attack ever, with a moon-sized bio flesh orb, and this time… they’re coming for earth.

The Current Main Characters of the imperium are:-

- The emperor
- Roboute Guilliman of the Ultramarines
- Lion El'Jonson of the Dark Angels
- The high lords of terra
- Trajann Valoris of the Custodes
- Belisarius Cawl of the Mechanicus
- Lord Solar Leontus of the Astra Militarum (imperial Guard)


LEVIATHAN APPROACHES! WHO ARE THE MIGHTY WARRIORS WHO WILL STAND AGAINST THE DEVOURER?!





SPACE MARINES




Games Workshop’s bread and butter. The Space Marines are humanity’s greatest warriors,towering genetically modified humans who are giants compared to regular people. They are the knights of the realm, split into thousand man chapters who act as the tip of the imperial spear. each the equal of a dozenhundredthousandhowever many the author deems necessary regular soldiers, and they’re equipped with the best weapons and armour the Imperium can provide. If you want an army that’s tough, powerful, fast, and with a lower model count, this is the army for you! Space Marine chapters follow a strict rule of war called the Codex Astartes, and none adhere closer to it than the Ultramarines. While most chapters also adhere to these same rules, some take them as guidelines.

The main lore factions of the Space marines are the 9 loyalist factions, sadly, most of the loyalist primarchs are dead or disappeared, with only Roboute Guilliman and Lion El’Jonson who have returned from the dead, however, the fates of some of them is yet to be resolved, so maybe they’ll make a comeback!



The main Space Marine factions are:-

- Ultramarines - Goody Good Boys - Their primarch Roboute Guilliman runs the imperium
- Dark Angels - Knights of the Round - their primarch Lion ElJonson is back to kick butt.
- Black Templars - Religious fanatics
- Space Wolves - Vikings out for a good time
- Blood Angels - Vampire Pretty boys led by the prettiest boy of them all.
- Salamanders - Forgers of fire and steel
- Iron Hands - Robotics and mechanics specialists, their disappeared primarch looks like frank castle from the punisher.
- Imperial Fists - siege specialists
- Raven Guard - Brandon Lee in 'The Crow'
- Death Watch - G.I. JOEEEE A REAL IMPERIUM HERO G.I. JOE is there!
-White Scars - Mongolian steppe warriors given cool bikes

GREY KNIGHTS




Well, uh, this is awkward. You know how the Space Marines are the best of the best? Well these are the best of the best of the best. Each Grey Knight is a psyker, trained to fight and kill daemons, traitors, and the myriad forces of Chaos. This is an even more elite army than the Space Marines, and they’re bolstered on the battlefield by their powerful psychic powers and anti-daemon abilities.

ADEPTUS CUSTODES - SISTERS OF SILENCE




Well, this is starting to get ridiculous. Even more elite than the elite of the elite are the Adeptus Custodes. These fabulous golden boys are all extremely able and extremely tough, exemplifying the idea of quality over quantity. If you want to focus on having a small, but extremely potent army, look no further.


Working extremely closely with the Adeptus Custodes, the Sisters of Silence are all psychic blanks, able to just ruin the day of any psykers who had any plans to cast today. They work very closely with the Custodes, and you can slot them right into a Custodes detachment without losing any of your Custodes' detachment abilities, or keep them in their own detachments.

SISTERS OF BATTLE




Due to a language oversight, the Ministorum could not have a standing army of men, but it said nothing about an army of women! The Sisters of Battle, also known colloquially as nuns with guns, are a zealous fighting force made entirely of women in power armour armed with boltguns, similar to Space Marines. While not genetically enhanced like the Space Marines, they do have access to powerful Acts of Faith that manifest on the battlefield. They received a full update in 8th edition, bringing them a full plastic model range and new rules.



ASTRA MILITARUM




Also known as the Imperial Guard, the Astra Militarum is the largest fighting force Humanity has ever mustered. Billions of souls from millions of worlds unite under the banner of the Imperium to fight in His name. While not as powerful individually as the Space Marines, what they lack in individual strength they make up for in sheer numbers and armoured support. if you want an army that plays like World War II in space, this is the army for you!

What makes the Imperial guard so badass isnt just the tanks, the artillery, the myriad of factions and homeworlds and aesthetics you can choose from (sadly some more expensive and rare than others) It’s that and the end of the day, it’s just regular people like me and you facing up against the literal horrors of hell itself. I mean yeah you and about a thousand or ten of your friends will die, but wait till you see the look on that hell demons face when your artillery finally lands a hit on them!

The variety of uniforms and schemes gives you the opportunity to customise your own force, and the sheer number of tanks available is a treadhead’s dream. This faction is a tankers dream.

The most Prominent Regiments are:-

1- Cadian Shock Troops
2- Death Korps of Krieg
3- Tallarn Desert Raiders
4- Mordian Iron Guard
5- Vostroyan Firstborn
6- Armageddon Steel Legion
7- Valhallan Ice Warriors
8- Catachan Jungle Fighters
9- The commissars who's pistols are aimed at the backs of everyones head.


ADEPTUS MECHANICUS



IFrom the moment I understood the weakness of my flesh, it disgusted me. I craved the strength and certainty of steel. I aspired to the purity of the Blessed Machine. Your kind cling to your flesh, as though it will not decay and fail you. One day the crude biomass you call the temple will wither, and you will beg my kind to save you. But I am already saved, for the Machine is immortal… Even in death I serve the Omnissiah.

Responsible for the fabrication and invention of all the Imperium's war machines and equipment is the Adeptus Mechanicus. Their standing armies consist of cyborgs, servitors, and biomechanical horrors armed with exotic, electric and radioactive weaponry on powerful mechanical chassis. Hailing from Mars, the Adeptus Mechanicus supplies most other armies of the Imperium with tech priests and in addition to their other equipment. A more recent addition to the game, the Adeptus Mechanicus are a unique army among the forces of the Imperium.

IMPERIAL AGENTS




The Imperium of man has many agents, assassins, inquisitors, Adeptus Arbites and the Imperial navy breachers and general weirdos working for it. While not always viable as a full army, Imperial Agents typically make for a fun and characterful extension of an existing force.

IMPERIAL KNIGHTS



Where kings walk, Knights follow

Mechwariors and Battletechs in the 41st millenium, what's not to love? you wanna be a cool mecha pilot mowing down hordes or fighting other mecha? this is the faction for you!

Do you like giant robots? Because we’ve got giant robots. Knights are single-pilot bipedal war machines that tower over the battlefield. Smaller than the war machines of the titan legions, knights are often seconded to another force. Capable of taking immense punishment and dishing it in return, they’re a force to be reckoned with on the tabletop, and offer painters the chance to go nuts designing their own heraldry or drawing from one of the established schemes.

CHAOS



Chaos comes from the warp, essentially hell in space. Fueled by unchecked emotion, Chaos corrupts, and none are free from its grasp. The four Chaos gods vie for control over the souls of mortals, each representing a different aspect or desire. Khorne is the god of war and bloodshed, Slaanesh is the god of excess, Tzeentch is the god of change, and Nurgle is the god of decay. Every action can fuel Chaos in some way, and it is for this reason that Chaos is the greatest threat to the Imperium, and the galaxy at large.

The main Characters of Chaos are:-

- Abbadon the Despoiler - Neutral Chaos - the most feared and successful chaos leader.
- Vashtorr the Arkifane - Demon - a mechanical demon out to ascend - He won the last major story campaign 'Arks of Omen' and probably has the key a superweapon right now.
- Mortarion - Death Guard Primarch - got owned by Guilliman.
- Typhus - Nurgle
- Angron - World Eaters Primarch - Khorne Demon of unstoppable rage
- Kharn the Betrayer - Khorne character
- Ahriman the Sorcerer - Tzeench nerd
- Fulgrim - emperors children Primarch - Slaanesh Demon Primarch
- Magnus the red - Thousand Sons Primarch - Tzeench Demon Primarch
- Perturabo - Iron Warriors Primarch - Neutral Chaos Demon Primarch


CHAOS SPACE MARINES



Your shrines will burn, your streets run with blood, your false idols shattered, your people slaughtered by the thousands, your very planet torn apart… and the barest fraction of my hatred will be satisfied.
Embittered, ancient, Veterans of the Long War, most Chaos Space Marines fell to the dark powers during the Horus heresy. Whether they are The devout of one of the four Chaos gods, grudge bearing renegades, or just spacefaring pirates out for their own gain, the Chaos Space Marines are as diverse and ruthless as their loyalist counterparts. They are also a great opportunity for modellers, as they can use parts from loyalists, Chaos, and Horus Heresy kits to great effect when customising their own models.

DEATH GUARD



While not all Plague Marines belong to the Death Guard, all Death Guard are Plague Marines. The Death Guard are entirely devoted to Nurgle, and spread his plagues throughout the galaxy. The Death Guard are incredibly tough, even more so than regular Space Marines. Supported by hordes of Poxwalkers, they can be a very difficult force to shift on the battlefield. If you like zombie or horror aesthetics, this is the army for you.

THOUSAND SONS



The Thousand Sons are, for the most part, an army of automatons inside power armour. Well most of the Legion is but dust inside their armour, its most powerful Sorcerers are still alive and well. fewer in number than regular Chaos Space Marines, the Thousand Sons rely on their powerful psychic abilities to carry them through the battle. With an Egyptian theme and a bevy of psychic powers at their disposal, the Thousand Sons are a very distinctive Chaos Legion.

WORLD EATERS



The galaxy is in turmoil, friends and family turn upon each other, and entire worlds burn to the laughter of thirsting gods. What we’re trying to say is, it’s the best it’s been in years – at least, if you’re one of the chosen servants of the Blood God.

The World Eaters are slaughter incarnate, mass murderers and killers, they only want blood, driven forward by the mad rage of their demon primarch Angron, they scour the galaxy looking to spill blood for the blood god. if you want a faction that's all about getting close and killing with chain axes, these are your guys.

CHAOS DEMONS



While there is no shortage of mortal servants of the dark gods, the Pantheon has their own armies beyond those of men and Chaos Space Marines. Chaos Daemons resemble their chosen God, from the smallest Nurgling, to the largest Bloodthirster. Chaos Daemons are typically hordes of lighter infantry supported by beasts and monstrous creatures. They're largely melee focused, with some shooting and psychic support.

CHAOS KNIGHTS



The Imperium aren't the only ones with big, stompy robots! Similar to their Imperial counterparts, Chaos Knights take the same giant war machines, slap some spikey bits and new weapons on, and go to war. While they use the same chassis, they have a number of different options that help them play differently. They offer even more customization and kitbashing potential than their loyalist counterparts.


Xenos



While Chaos is the threat from within, Xenos represent the threat from without. There are many alien races vying for control of the galaxy, and these represent some of the most exotic and strange armies of the 41st millennium.

ORKS





Orks are, by their own admission, made for fightin’ and winnin’. the Orks, also known as the green tide, are a variety of warbands and klans fighting their way across the stars in their own respective WAAAAGH!s, each of which are halfway between a crusade and a pub crawl. With hordes of troops, ramshackle vehicles, and oodles of technology that really shouldn't work but still kind of does, Orks are an immensely fun army to paint, model, and play. These Orks are less Lord of the Rings, and more Mad Max. It is sad that were the Orks to unite, they could overrun the entire galaxy, but they have too much fun just fighting each other to ever do that. Orks are the closest 40K comes to a comic relief army, and as a result have a lot of fans both in this thread and the greater gaming community.

Main Characers of Orks:-

GHAZKULL MAG URUK THRAKA - the biggest and baddest ork of them all with a messianic mission of being Gork and Morks prophet

Zodgrod Wortsnagga - Guy who likes Grots

TYRANIDS



Tyranids are the main antagonists of 10th edition, they are bio-horror bugs who are invading the galaxy from the dark beyond with only one goal:- Eat everything alive.

The Tyranids are rapacious alien swarms that emerge from the cold darkness of the intergalactic void. Guided by the unknowable intellect of the Hive Mind, these nightmarish super-predators hunt, kill, and feed without end, stripping world after world of biomass and leaving nothing but airless rocks in their wake. When the Tyranids make planetfall, a seemingly endless tide of Termagants spit vile living ammunition at hapless defenders, while writhing Ripper Swarms surge over the wounded and dead alike. These creatures are guided by intelligent Tyranid Warriors – vicious bioforms bristling with organic weapons – and a monstrous Hive Tyrant, the towering psychic lynchpin of the swarm’s advance.

Tyranids are unique in that while they don't all have individual will, they do share a gestalt psychic consciousness. This psychic will power is spread through their synapse creatures which control the larger horde. They range in size from the small gaunts, which are roughly man-sized, to tank sized carnifexes all the way to monstrous bio-titans. The swarm’s only will is to kill and devour. If you like the Zerg from Starcraft or the bugs from Starship Troopers, you'll find something to like here.

MAIN CHARACTERS:-

- The hive mind
- The bio Moon headed for earth

Genestealer Cults




Ahead of the greater Tyranid hordes are the vanguard organisms that are genestealers. Genestealers begin by implanting their DNA in members of a planet's community, and then through a combination of psychic will and good old-fashioned propaganda, are able to take control of its people and start a Genestealer cult, a sort of doomsday cult awaiting the arrival of their “salvation” at the arrival of the great Tyranid swarm. With a combination of industrial equipment, looted military ordnance, and good old-fashioned Tyranid claws, Genestealer Cults are a subversive but fragile force which relies on sneak attacks and outflanking to accomplish its goals. They have a decidedly industrial aesthetic which provides a little-seen glimpse into day-to-day life in the Imperium. They work as a great support Force for Tyranids, and offer numerous modelling and converting opportunities due to their background.

NECRONS



The Necrons are Ancient Undead Egyptian Dynasties who’s source of power is to torture the souls of the gods who once oppressed them.

They were once an ancient race of humanoids called the Necrontir, cursed with a genetic deficiency that killed them with super-cancer that shortened their lifespan, they were tricked by a group of gods called the C’tan into giving up their bodies and allowing their souls to be encased in steel skeleton frames, unwittingly allowing themselves to be enslaved by their evil gods.However, Szarekh, the silent king led an uprising that destroyed the ct’an, shattering them into shards and now they’re tortured souls power the necrons, afterwards the necrons entomed themselves to sleep for millions of years, Necrons have been slumbering throughout the universe for millennia. Only recently have they awoken, and it is their goal to reconquer all that they lost in their sleep. Afflicted with an ancient curse, most Necrons are merely soulless automatons trapped in regenerating bodies of metal. Others have gone completely mad and seek to wear the skin of those they kill. Some still kept parts of their old personalities and are now eccentric and ambitious Warlords all. Armed with weapons that strip the matter from their target’s bones, and made of regenerating living metal, Necrons are a force to be reckoned with. In previous editions they were essentially mindless Terminator-esque automatons, but more recently they have been fleshed out to incorporate more personality and an Egyptian theme. Their standard silver scheme also lends itself to beginning painters and people who want an army done fast.

Main Characters

- Szarekh the silent king
- Trazyn the Infinite
- Orikan the Diviner

TAU EMPIRE



Ryu ga waga teki wo kurau!

Young, ambitious, and technologically-advanced, the Tau Empire is a recent contender for control of the galaxy. Their troops, while well armoured and heavily-armed, are not well trained for close combat, but are supported by their alien auxiliaries and the heavier firepower of their armoured units. Tau vehicles are typically fast hover tanks armed with heavy ordnance, but the real heart of a Tau force is in its battle suits. Ranging from single man Crisis suits all the way to monstrous Stormsurges and Supremacy armour, the Tau mount most of their best weapons on these bipedal war machines. Even still, they eschew close combat in favour of superior firepower, and are rare in that they have no psychic presence whatsoever. The Tau have a decidedly Eastern aesthetic, drawing heavily from Mecha anime like Robotech.

Main Characters:-

- The ethereal Caste
- Commander Shadowsun
- Commander Farsight - who leads a separate faction

AELDARI



I hear the song of the celestial heavens, and the music is cacophonous. It is strange but I find comfort in its dissonance. Righting the discord of the universal opus is what’s given my people purpose when, by all rights we as a race should have collapsed in upon ourselves. It is in such moments when species find their greatness or settle back into the muck that spawned them... For myself I have a purpose if only to correct one particular stray note in a symphony run amok. Win or lose, this battle is already my victory, my triumph. It is now fate which decides whether I am there to celebrate that fact or not.

Before mankind was young, the Aeldari were the rulers of the galaxy. However, their hedonistic society collapsed in on itself giving birth to Slaanesh, the Chaos god of excess. Since then the surviving Eldar have lived on floating craftworlds, vessels which blur the line between planet and spaceship. They live an ascetic lifestyle, singular in purpose, be it poetry or warfare. Their armies are made up of elite Aspect Warriors, specialized in one way of war, supported by ghostly Wraith constructs, powerful grav tanks, and some of the most devastating psykers in the universe. They provide a painter ample opportunity to test their skills on some incredibly detailed models, while also letting them paint a diverse variety of colors and uniforms within one army. The Eldar dominate the psychic phase typically, and their fragile nature and Powerful weaponry reward a skilled player.


MAIN CHARACTERS:-

- Eldrad Ulthwan - the most powerful of their sorcerers
- Y'vraine - the lady who resurrected Guilliman and maybe is bringing back a new eldar god.

DRUKHARI





Not simply Chaos Eldar, the Dark Eldar instead spread suffering and pain to feed She-who-thirsts, their name for Slaanesh. They do this not to serve the Prince of Excess, but to sate its hunger and keep it from devouring their own souls. For this purpose, the Dark Eldar typically capture slaves either for the sake of torturing them, or to fight in the gladiator arenas on Commorragh. They do this from the decks of their fast-moving Raiders and Venom skimmers, or on their Reaver jetbikes. The Haemonculi among the Dark Eldar are master fleshsmiths, capable of cloning fallen Dark Eldar warriors, or turning them into biological monstrosities such as the Wracks or Talos pain engines. By and large, the Dark Eldar are even more of a glass cannon and precision army than the regular Eldar, but without psychic powers to fall back on they rely more on speed. There's a real Hellraiser aesthetic here that makes them an ideal Army for horror fans.


Main Characters:-

- Asdrubael Vect who rules Commoragh

HARLEQUINS

Neither Craftworld Eldar, nor Dark Eldar, the harlequins are a bizarre and eccentric troupe of Eldar devoted to re-enacting the Legend of the Fall of the Eldar. They are Servants of the Laughing God, and dress in garish and colourful costumes that they wear to war. They see no distinction between performance and war, and they serve their God by performing on the battlefield. They are a specialised and fragile army, even among the Eldar. They reward a player with a distinct plan and a steady paintbrush. They are most often used alongside their Craftworld or Dark brethren as a supporting force.


LEAGUES OF VOTANN





Rock and Stone!

The Squats are back! And they’re here to take all of your resources, regardless if you like it or not.

The leagues of Votann are a race that is essentially Dwarf-Clones who worship Giant AI computers as their gods and they live Equally with AI robots. They go forth looking for resources, they carry grudges, if you’re between them and a shiny rock they’ll kick your butt. Simple As.

Main Characters:-

- Ulthar the Destined

Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Aug 4, 2023

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Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.


Now onto the fun part!

There has never ever been a better time to get into 40k, not only has the game reached a point where it can be considered ‘Good’, it has also been simplified (not simple) to a point where a fun 500 - 1000 point game can be finished in the same amount of time as a long game of Risk or Monopoly, of course setup might take a little bit but not much. GW has finally learned how to write for normal human beings, and not only that they’ve provided many pictures and diagrams for illiterates like me to understand.

some things you should know:-

- Ignore the people who claim that warhammer 40k is too complex. That is a reputation that is no longer the case, the game is no more or less complex than a macro version of X-com and a fighting game like street fighter (where each team has unique attributes and special moves) with a couple layers of tactics and strategy on top. If you can wrap your head around games like X-Com, Street Fighter and starcraft should be no problem for you. GW have Provided alot of low-investment entry points into the game and a simplified version of the game called ‘combat patrol’ exists to ease you into it!

- All the core rules and unit datacards are available online for free and through the app! You can learn the rules without needing to buy the official rulebook unless you’re a collector of that sort of thing, the app though has all the core rules and the unit datasheets so I recommend downloading that as your reference or printing the rules from online.

- The game has paid DLC in the form of Codexes, that are books that are sold that flesh out the lore and rules of your specific faction, but it’s optional. Just something to keep in mind.

- DO NOT LEARN THE RULES FROM THE COMPUTER SCIENCE OR ENGINEER NERDS. THEY WILL CONFUSE YOU AND THEN GET MAD YOU DIDN'T IMMEDIATELY UNDERSTAND THE TERM PAPER THEY JUST SPAT AT YOU. IF YOU SEE ANY SIGN THAT THEY ARE FANS OF MAGIC THE GATHERING OR YU-GI-OH, DO NOT SHAKE THEIR HANDS, ASSUME ALPHA POSTURE, OPEN YOUR JACKET TO APPEAR BIGGER, WALK SLOWLY BACKWARDS OUT OF THE STORE. LEARN THE GAME FROM HUMANITIES AND ARTS MAJORS OR MILITARY PEOPLE, OR YOUTUBE CHANNELS.

- remember to have fun! the game is just as much about talking and enjoying each others company as it is about winning!


SO HOW DO I START?


Step (1) get a normal measuring tape from your local hardware store.

Step (2) Buy some dice! A healthy amount such as 40, split 20 between two players, if however you play Orks, buy more dice than you think you’ll ever need, something like 50 for you alone lol.

Nice places to buy dice are any gaming store, be sure to buy dice that are easy to read and have fun picking colors for two people.

I recommend Chessex:-

Chessex Dice. 12mm Dice Block™ (36 Dice)

https://www.chessex.com/12mm-dice-block-36-dice

Step (3) Get some normal hobby pliers, super glue, a file and some acrylic paint sets.

Your options are Citadel Paints , Vallejo Paints , Army Painter Paints.

We will discuss details on painting in the next section.

Step (4) buy a starter set:-

Option (1) LEVIATHAN STARTER SETS

BIG BOY 10th EDITION LAUNCH BOX



https://a.co/d/7XrXnYq

If you want the most flexible and longest lasting and most value for your dollar, buy the big leviathan starter set, if will give you enough units for both 500 point combat patrols and 1000 point games for half the price they would be if you bought the units individually, take note, this is a special edition release that is only ONE PRINTING, once they’re gone, they’re gone and you’ll find them for a higher price on Ebay, luckily GW printed a bajillion of these, so you have more chances to find these than the previous special edition launch box. It includes all the cards, all the rules, the Leviathan Crusade book which is normally a separate release.


NORMAL STARTER SETS:-



https://a.co/d/hHd5gy5



https://a.co/d/6Uizulh





https://a.co/d/5RW3uRP


Option (2) Combat Patrols



Dont want to play space marines, want two different factions? Get a couple combat patrols for you and your friend! Buy any one of them! They’re ALL BALANCED AGAINST EACH OTHER, you dont need to worry about any of these boxes being ‘bad’ or ‘weak’ each other since GW has developed ‘Combat patrol’ to make things fair and fun no matter which one of these boxes you get! Think of this as a fighting game character select screen, get what looks cool to you and play!

Combat Patrol Rules and Missions – Everything You Need to Play this Fresh New Mode - Warhammer Community

Option (3) Boarding Patrols:-





This is another new mode that takes place inside of space ships, you can buy the terrain and accessories, however, the rulebooks are expensive (so find the rules online) and the actual box sets armies are limited prints


Option (4) Kill Team:-




https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/kill-team-starter-set-2022-eng




https://a.co/d/5JgBTIP

This is a cool different game that’s a squad based skirmish, but it’s what got me back into warhammer after 20 years so I feel emotionally obliged to include it. It’s a cool game though so look into it! It’s fast paced, alternating turns, and really has alot unit special abilities and reactions. It’s great!


Step (5):- find a table or surface that’s 6 foot by 4 foot and a game mat. You can find mats online at amazon, GW, or any hobby website.

Step (6):- get some terrain, this can be as cheap as books and styrofoam blocks, or you can buy custom made terrain from GW, Specialist hobby websites, or get a bunch of STL files from Etsy, Ebay and print them yourselves! The possibilities are endless!

Step (7):- Gather your friends, Play and have fun!




In short, 40k is a turn based strategy game, played on a 6x4 map (smaller too if combat patrol), you select your map, your army list and deployment, and fight! your goal isnt just to kill as many of the enemy as you can, but to also accomplish tactical and strategic objectives that earn you victory points, these change depending on the type of mission you play, and the map, and the faction you play is.

VICTORY POINTS ABOVE ALL ELSE, EVEN IF YOU LOSE ALL YOUR GUYS YOU CAN WIN IF YOU FOCUS ON YOUR TACTICAL AND AND STRATEGIC GOALS FOR VICTORY POINTS. ITS NEVER TOO LATE TO CLUTCH A WIN. FIGHT SMART. WIN.

Playing 40k has never been easier to learn! The best way to get started is to play combat patrol then work your way to the full 40k experience! Here are the rules for the various game modes, all of which are OFFICIALLY AVAILABLE FOR FREE ONLINE! however take note that the paid DLC codex books form a very important part of the full game experience, so you'll have to shell out money (or find some other way wink wink) to access that expanded rules and lore to get the full blast experience.

Here are some handy youtube videos to learn the game from:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3xJudBU2dw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFnTkjk025E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M2kHq4Z7-4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksaWer8a52w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PWwvEM2DWU

Here are some nice youtube channels you can watch to get a sense for how the game flows in general, they're nicely edited with lots of explosions!

https://www.youtube.com/@tabletoptactics
https://www.youtube.com/@PlayOnTabletop
https://www.youtube.com/@DiceCheck

NOW ONTO THE RULES!

COMBAT PATROL


https://www.warhammer-community.com/2023/06/29/combat-patrol-rules-and-missions-everything-you-need-to-play-this-fresh-new-mode/

CORE RULES FOR WARHAMMER 40k

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/dLZIlatQJ3qOkGP7.pdf

THE INDEX CARDS FOR ALL FACTIONS OFFICIALLY FOR FREE:-

SPACE MARINES:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/uVN1M55L0U3dQeWZ.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/YC40Fxov5FhbXFRl.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/C6o7G0zjRSxCUvhK.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/u61I5H9K5r9oNsXZ.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/BcWghehxrgeCmkN8.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/D2jWk0bUnG9zY6Gb.pdf

GREY KNIGHTS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/4czxZwZf5cZCT7dk.pdf

CUSTODES:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/TE5lPwmnUDrITuGM.pdf

SISTERS OF BATTLE:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/riFjIh9OeKg6AbLZ.pdf

ASTRA MILITARUM - IMPERIAL GUARD:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/xOjVS3Asx2QJ13lk.pdf

MECHANICUS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/vkzQ2IBbrrCVNzz3.pdf

THE KNIGHTS (a.k.a Mechwarrior evangelions)

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/NRqB9dxmiQDjknNV.pdf

IMPERIAL AGENTS (Inquisitors, Assasins, Arbites, Imperial Navy Breachers):-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Ozcq0k1WInJbmhZV.pdf

CHAOS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/csv0IuVvYQAndBJE.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/JhAjl9vv4BcigNO9.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/VdyiNhPdt8ehmIh6.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/2iVljh64k0hWMKsO.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/iiq5IN0DVsqWxFxh.pdf
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/5I1cNt3t71dfd3jh.pdf

TYRANIDS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/L8FE4F808oEwCq9T.pdf

TYRANID GENESTEALER CULTS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/BrBEfwS94zTuHrZq.pdf

TAU:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/20OdtEKVLiE4H6Zo.pdf

ORKS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE2Pdickp8sNe1NX.pdf

NECRONS:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/H5pO90rzYSAY6dHG.pdf

VOTANN:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/YWdVWS6bgzMSMsNo.pdf

AELDARI:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/kQ4OfkQB5G05ZNX4.pdf

DRUKHARI:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ARyMPKx2JXprseBC.pdf

Each faction has unique playstyles strengths and weaknesses, take a look! it's in a book! se what you like and pick up a combat patrol box of it!

WHATS THIS ABOUT POINTS?!

Warhammer has mustering rules that you build your armies depending on pre-determined sizes using Points. think of them as having a limited about of money that you allocate to a battle and each unit costs a certain amount depending on how big and powerful they are. so for example if you fight a 1000 point battle you can only field an army whose points values total that amount.

to read how many points your units cost please refer to the warhammer munitorim field manual, check it occasionally since they update the game with balance patches:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/agEmmZiw4tq7IOYE.pdf

Warhammer has four main sizes:-


Combat Patrol - 500 points (this is the combat patrol boxes that are balances against each other)
Incursion - 1,000 Points
Strike Force - 2,000 Points
Onslaught - 3,000 Points

the game size and time it takes to play increases by something like 30 minutes every time you move up a level.



Onto part 3:- the hobby and community!





Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Aug 28, 2023

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
PART 3:- THE HOBBY AND THE COMMUNITY




WHATS THIS ABOUT HOBBY?!

Warhammer isnt just a fun strategy tabletop game, it’s also a craft hobby! You get to assemble and pain your minis to customize your own paint schemes and craft different combos for your miniatures (up to a point)

The main steps to this is:-

1- Clip your pieces off of the sprues by following the build manuals
2- Glue your pieces together using superglue or plastic cement (warning plastic cement is permanent, no going back from it)
3- file and clip your pieces to remove mold lines and make additions
4- this is optional,but this is the point that some people customize their minis with added bits, sculpt using a material called ‘green stuff’ and customize their minis.
5- Use a Miniature Spray Paint Primer to prep your minis for painting.
6- Paint your minis with the paint scheme of your choice
7- Base your minis with materials that simulate the type of terrain you’re looking for.
8- Varnish your paint with a spray to solidify and finalize your paints against weathering.

But the absolute #1 rule to painting is ALWAYS THIN YOUR PAINTS, DO NOT PAINT STRAIGHT FROM THE POT, YOUR RESULTS WILL LOOK A MILLION TIMES BETTER BY LAYERING MULTIPLE COATS OF THINNED PAINT WITHOUT LOSING ANY DETAILS.

Here is a helpful guide to thinning your paints, PLEASE WATCH THIS ONE BEFORE YOU START PAINTING IT WILL SAVE YOU SO MUCH HEARTACHE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7hWnZycZxE&t=114s

Here are Nice Youtube warhammer channels to learn the hobby from:-

The official Warhammer Painting Guides:-

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEaPE4sLDA7vF6EaoNnvdh7SozU7cf1e4&si=_R0q1a_grvGyMbDL

BrushStroke Painting Guides:-

https://www.youtube.com/@BrushstrokePaintingGuides/videos

Broadsword Wargaming

https://www.youtube.com/@BroadswordWargaming

The Painting Coach:-

https://www.youtube.com/@ThePaintingCoach

Duncan Rhodes
https://www.youtube.com/@DuncanRhodesDRPA

Squidmar miniatures
https://www.youtube.com/@SquidmarMiniatures


The Painting Phase:-

https://www.youtube.com/@thepaintingphase/featured

Goobertown Hobbies:-

https://www.youtube.com/@GoobertownHobbies

Zumiki Miniatures:-

https://www.youtube.com/@Zumikito


Places to go to find help for craft aspects of the game:-

Somethingawful 3D printing thread
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973815&pagenumber=1&perpage=40

Somethingawful Painting thread

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692



Goon-Reccomended stores to buy stuff from:-

EBAY
AMAZON
ETSY

Michigan Toy Soldier: good online store, 10% discount if you sign up an account
Redgrass Games: awesome wet palletes
The Magnet Baron: sells magnet kits for drat near every GW kit
A-Case: magnet cases. pricey but great quality
The Mighty Brush: awesome transfers
Alpha Game Table: fold up 8x4' table for wargames
Gamers Grass: awesome basing tufts and pre-made bases. Fun alien neon colors
Tablewar: great for mats for wargames, also has nice carry cases, and a cool photo backdrop, the macromat!

Oh also KR Multicases are great, and they used to sponsor the paint thread back in the day.

heir UK equivalent is Navara Cases in this case.

Then Rosemary & Co for really good brushes.

While belonging more in the painting thread perhaps, WarColours Shop might be a fun addition if you're looking for different paints, with the highlight being the 94 nostalgia series.
Also, free gravy during purchases.


If people in the UK (or willing to deal with international shipping) are looking for bits resellers for conversion work then it's worth mentioning bitzbox.co.uk, bitsandkits.co.uk and forbiddengaming.co.uk, I've repeatedly used all three with no issues.

If anyone can make similar recommendations for EU, NA, etc equivalents that would probably be a be useful addition too.

https://www.greenstuffindustries.com/ is a good place for green stuff, tentacles rollers, and some other odds and ends. Note I haven't purchased from here yet but they come highly recommended by @modernsynthesist on Instagram who I very much trust to give good recs.

Another UK offer is BitsMonster.

For EU have Bitzarium (French), Bitzstore (French) and Bitsbay (Italian). Only shipped from the first one in the past so no idea about the second one.
There is also Megabitzshop, but they don't ship to the EU, despite being based in Germany, due to tax issues.

As for the US? You've got Hoard 'O Bits and that's it outside of Ebay stores.

oining the eBay recommendations. window-box, now I guess called Blackdagger Games, has served me very reliably over the years: https://www.ebay.com/str/blackdaggergames

I used to be able to get bits from Australia to Canada cheaper than from the US. Bitzgalaxy remains my favorite ebay bits store, though I haven't bought from them for a while.


WHERE DO I FIND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE INTO THIS GAME?

Step one:- Go into the sunlight, find a friend and go to your local game shop, you’d be surprised how quickly you can assemble a gaming group by simply exposing people to the game! I come from Saudi Arabia, where the number of people who play warhammer can be counted on a single hand, but by inviting a friend out to a local card game store (sadly that means you’ll have to get in smelling distance of Yu-Gi-Oh and Magic the Gathering Players) and letting people see the game, I managed to develop a decent sized circle of friends who are into the game! If I can do it, so can you!

Step two:- Go online and find them, find gamers in your town, in your next town, etc. and start building relationships!

Step three:- Go online and find people around the world to share your love of the hobby with!

Here are nice communities, podcasts and shows to get into to meet others through:-

https://www.youtube.com/@thepoorhammerpodcast

https://www.goonhammer.com/

https://www.youtube.com/@DiceCheck

https://www.youtube.com/@Adeptusridiculous

https://www.youtube.com/@tabletoptactics

https://www.youtube.com/@TabletopTitans/videos

https://www.youtube.com/@PlayOnTabletop

https://www.youtube.com/@ChapterMasterValrak

Twitch has some great artist and communities live streaming their hobby time under the Warhammer category. You can also find some decent live matches being streamed as well.

https://www.twitch.tv/directory/game/Warhammer

And so, the Emperors OP has been delivered, go forth have fun and slay the darkness! Or be the Darkness! Whatever suits your fancy!



Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Aug 29, 2023

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
If we wanted to play a good game, we wouldn't be playing 40K.

https://youtu.be/RbhcRKsRwFM?t=71

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Aug 3, 2023

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

The earliest and the hottest of takes followed by the laughter of thirsting gods.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




AndyElusive posted:

The earliest and the hottest of takes followed by the laughter of thirsting gods.

If I ever make a collective thread for Warhammer RPG's I'm going to title it "The clatter of thirsting dice".

Jeff Wiiver
Jul 13, 2007
Glad I managed to get in a bunch of 10E games early. All my WH buddies are having kids now. They need to get their priorities straight!

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
Random compilation of effortposts to salvage from the last thread:

Gift ideas:

Cease to Hope posted:

Tossing out some hobby gift advice for Eargesplitten or whoever else is encouraging a new hobbyist, in a form that can be handed off to parents or relatives:

The DSPIAE sprue nippers are luxury ones but don't go for quite as much as God Hands. (They're very good clones, good enough to have their own rep.) They go for about $40-60 and some of the Gunpla importers sell rebranded ones; if you look them up, you'll get an eye for which single-blade rebrands have the same exact shape but with an engraved store logo. They're a "treat these carefully" kind of gift, so maybe not for someone younger who hasn't ruined a set of clippers or two. It's something you find in specialist hobby stores, mainly online.

If they're old enough for Xacto blades, Xacto tool blades are super handy. #28 concave curve blades (with a sickle style edge, sometimes called stitchcutter blades) and hobby saw blades are super useful, the former for cleaning mold lines and the latter for kitbashes or base modeling, but lots of people just don't know that they exist. A second Xacto handle at the same time is handy as heck; a cheap one or clone is usually as good as a name brand. No need to get the big chunky "comfort" handles that cost like $20-25 and are aimed at papercrafters. (I like the Xacto Gripster or Excel K18, both less than $10, but any handle that you open or loosen somewhere other than where you grip is good.) Hardware stores, craft stores, scale model stores, or game specialist stores are all possible places to buy the specialized blades, and you can get Xacto handles pretty much anywhere.

A jar of Vallejo terrain paste paint. It's super fun to play with and makes bases look cool as heck on it's own, and comes in a 40 ml bottle for $7-8. Just pick whatever kind of thick mud looks neat to you, since it can be repainted once it dries. Scale model/RC stores and some specialist gaming stores will have this; any place that sells scale model tanks and isn't a pure toy store is a shoo-in. If specialist model or game stores don't carry Vallejo paints, they probably know who does, or have a comparable brand (like AK or Mig) to recommend. (Citadel is GW's overpriced brand so not that.)

Green stuff, with a set of sculpting tools, ideally containing a pointed metal awl tool, a spatula of some sort, and silicone-ended sculpting tools. (They look like brushes, and cheap ones still do the job.) Green stuff is flexible, smooth-textured air-drying modeling putty and it's an absolute gamechanger. The tools are the ones that are super useful all the time; there are lots of tool sets for sculpting but lots of them are filled with useless crap or tools aimed at other types of sculpting. Green stuff is usually sold as a blue and yellow tape, or occasionally small pillars of yellow and blue material. Specialist game stores definitely sell green stuff, and modeling or RC/drone stores might. Any kind of generalist craft store might occasionally have the putty and will almost certainly have the tools. (There are other types of two-part epoxy clay, but they're more advanced and situational. Green stuff is a gamechanger when you first learn about it and everyone can use more.) A big bottle of generic moisturizing hand lotion for a couple bucks is a good companion with this, since it's the best tool and finger lubricant I've yet found. (Lasts longer than water, but still evaporates, rather than leaving residue you have to wipe off when you use grease like Vaseline.)

All of these things are things people may not know they need, but are immediately and obviously useful, and all of them are things they can use more of even if they do use them already. And except for the scalpel blades, they're all good for any age or skill level as long as they're past putting things in their mouths.

The Haters' Guide to Primaris Marines

Cease to Hope posted:

haters' guide to primaris space marines

space marines have way, way too many datasheets. they often have 2-3 datasheets where other armies would only have one. i think overloading new players with lots of bespoke special rules is a bad idea but i guess i don't work at games workshop!

phobos armor is "light" armor with one shoulderpad and lots of random tacticool pouches, although the dudes all have the normal saves and toughness and wounds profile you expect from marines. basically all phobos guys are scouts with a normal MEQ statline, on a screen/speedbump suicide mission. only the eliminators are particularly threatening. these were the strongest argument that firstborn marines had a cancel date because phobos dudes don't do anything scouts can't except exist.

incursors and infiltrators are both basically the same unit, a forward-deploy squad of marines with rifles who inevitably screen and eat poo poo. one kind of them has a big anti-deepstrike bubble so ask if you run one of those armies. eliminators look like tall sniper scouts with big camo cloaks and they are sniper scouts except that they fire and fade. they can also have sawed-off lascannon instead of sniper rifles. (it's less cool than it sounds, especially in 10e.) reivers are melee scouts with a bunch of special rules but nobody plays them because they're barely better in melee than dudes fighting with their fists. (there's a space wolf reiver variant that's kind of okay though.) phobos characters do tricky scout stuff, like fire and fade or gently caress with deployment. the most common one you'll see is the librarian, because basically gives his whole unit lone operative.

tacticus is just the regular marine armor, primaris-edition. technically it's mk 10. this is the generic marine bucket. bladeguard look like middleweight melee elites because they are, and every other unit does the thing you'd expect a marine with that type of weapon to do.

intercessors are boring bolter guys who have a grenade launcher guy that barely looks different because it's a tiny underbarrel attachment. standard boring cheap-ish objective sitters. assault intercessors are generic marines with chainswords and pistols and unremarkable in every way. bladeguard are fancy dudes with big swords, big kite shields, and poo poo covered in bones and skulls. they're typical middlewight "veteran" melee units, although they did a bit better than most such units in the 10e changeover because they're still D2, and they can get a little silly with some of the character attachments (although that's usually too many eggs in one basket). desolation squads are new from late 9e and can kiss my rear end. they're the ugly missile launcher primaris guys, and they're all armed with both a missile launcher and mortars. they ignore the penalties for shooting indirect and honestly gently caress desolators. hellblasters are a funny unit of all guys with plasma guns and they're basically suicide bombers. the plasma guns are just plasma guns, but whenever one of them dies, they can shoot again on death, even if it's from plasma overheat. infernus are the boring flamer guys from leviathan. suppressors are a unit you'll almost never see: they're jump-pack dudes with autocannon and they're only available as part of a monopose sprue that GW doesn't actually sell at the moment. they're not dudes you'll ever see anyone play, just the answer to a trivia question. tacticus characters run the widest range and can do literally anything, so check what they do first.

gravis marines are the big fat guys, with fat-looking helmets, bigger kneepads, and boots with crenelations. look a bit elite but generally aren't. they're 5" move (unless they fly), T6, and 3W. they're surprisingly durable against small arms but just eat poo poo to anything heavier than a stormbolter, lol. mainly they try to waddle in range to absolutely gently caress up something with short-ranged weapons. mostly they wish that they could grow up and be obliterators someday. several of these units are currently serving time for crimes committed during previous editions, and they're all kind of the high side points-wise for what they do. be careful, though, because all of them can be annoying (if way, way too expensive) with the addition of a character.

aggressors are the ones with horribly-ugly power fists with guns glued to them. these look a little like terminators but instead they're basically walking shotgun batteries. these shoot more bolter shots than you'd generally expect from three guys, or you can give them flamers if you thought the problem with infernus marines was that they don't also have power fists. eradicators (not to be confused with eliminators, lol) have melta guns and... shoot melta guns, you know what meltas do. horribly designed atm, since they reroll dice against the exact type of target you'd want to target with Oath of Moment anyway. heavy intercessors are... intercessors but heavy. pointless unit, and not common because they're also weirdly expensive in rl money and haven't (yet) seen much duty as value box filler. inceptors (these names get really abstract) look like fat spacemen on jetpack frames dual-wielding plasma guns, or sometimes bolters that are proxies for plasma guns. gently caress you they look cool. deepstriking suicide mission team that can land within 3", and currently pretty mediocre. gravis characters also run the gamut but there are less of them so they tend to be a little bit less wild.

bikes! i didn't know where else to put these, but they're all overpriced poo poo that sucks! outriders cost 115 for three guys with chainswords and bolters and no other interesting abilities to speak of. invader atvs might be good if they get a cost decrease because they can shoot twice as long as there's two units of them. i guess they have a lot of wounds? who cares! the end!

How To Find Cheaper Minis

Cease to Hope posted:

To save you wasting a ton of money: don't buy Citadel tools, don't buy Citadel glue. Citadel paint ranges from overpriced but worth it (contrasts, the couple of cool Technical paints), to just loving ripping you off (white, black, any Technical texture paste), but the paint starter boxes are fine if you want to grab a grab-bag of basics.

The cheapest way to find models is to get into the local discords and Facebook groups, and look for the Facebook trading group(s) for your country/state/region. ("Faction" discords are almost always terrible places to find anything worth buying, especially if you don't live in the US or UK.)There is also r/miniswap (always sort by new), which is all reddity but generally useful if you live in North America. The signal/noise in all of these is very low and you'll need to take some time to get used to what's cheap and what's actually going for 75% of GW price, but basically never pay more than 75% for GW price unless you're looking for something temporarily scarce or relatively rare. If the models are painted and you don't like the look, I also wrote a million words about how to remove paint. (Short version: 99% isopropyl, nitrile gloves, a toothbrush, and a nylon pipe cleaning brush. Don't buy painted resin models unless you like the paint.)

eBay can be useful if you're willing to set up alerts for what you're looking for, but if you're just browsing, it's a sellers'/scalpers' market and often badly overpriced unless you're willing to buy broken or otherwise hosed models and rehabilitate them. Again, eBay is a lot more useful to people in the US or UK.

NOS is "new on sprue" and basically new although more likely to lose parts in transit, NIB is "new in box" and a bit more reliable. "Recast" and "printed" are counterfeit and the quality varies wildly, and recast models are (almost) always resin regardless of what the model was originally made of. Any Forgeworld model without the original box or a certificate is probably a recast. Finecast is GW's resin versions of models to keep old ones in print, and their quality can be questionable. "Easy to build" or "monopose" models are models that don't come with the full range of wargear or pose options. Some models are only available as easy-to-build (and it looks like that's going to be the case for Barbgaunts), but if there are two versions of the unit, then the monopose models command a much lower price.

If you don't know how to be safe when buying from randos: use a payment method with buyer protection. (Paypal goods and services is pretty standard. Most direct bank transfers aren't reversible.) Asking for irreversible payments for anything but an in-person sale is a red flag, asking for crypto is 100% a scam. Always get tracked shipping unless it's an international deal where that's not possible. Be ready to replace bases or single lost parts, since that happens a lot just by accident. Check condition before buying and make sure for yourself that it will serve for your purposes. Feel free to ask people for pictures of what they're selling; don't deal with anyone who can't or won't provide a reasonable request for pictures of the models they actually have on hand.

Some stores sell used models. This is, obviously, a crapshoot, but at least you're able to inspect them in person and receive them immediately. Stores generally have higher prices than some guy, but there are many exceptions. The main thing is that there's a large knowledge gap, and stores are much more likely to demand a premium for high-quality paint jobs. The 75% of GW is a good rule of thumb to never get ripped off (as long as it's the same models that GW is currently selling and not damaged/incomplete in some way), but at least you can know that the strictly illegal ways of scamming you are much less likely.

If you want to buy models GW has announced replacement for, you can definitely find some used deals now, and even more deals pretty soon.

If you don't want to handle any of that nonsense, I don't blame you. The next-best option are the big online sellers for your country, who generally sell things for 10-15% off of GW MSRP. (You occasionally even see 20% sometimes.) In most countries, the standard is 15% off and free shipping for a large purchase. This might even be your local game store, but if they have gaming space they don't charge for, it probably isn't. Here on out, when I refer to prices, I'm referring to GW's prices unless I say otherwise, but never ever pay GW price unless you're buying something limited edition. Can't emphasize this enough.

The best value for brand-new miniatures, regardless of who you're buying them from, are value boxes. These have multiple different units, and are generally aimed at new players to the game or to a faction. Unfortunately, they're also pretty heavily scalped, so the best ones might be so scarce that they're difficult to find after the day of release. (Keep an eye on the second-hand markets; there's a lot of people who impulse-buy a big army box then get buyer's remorse and sell it for cheap.) These have an array of intentionally-confusing names, but they generally come in two variations: smaller boxes, currently running $100-160, two-faction boxes, running $150-200, and big boxes, running $200+. Also check if the boxed set has the monopose version of a unit, if there are two versions of a unit.

Small boxes are currently named "Combat Patrol: [Faction]" but have had names like Start Collecting, Boarding Patrol, or, for Age of Sigmar, Vanguard. They generally have a character, 2-3 units, and maybe an additional monster or middling-sized vehicle. These are always a good deal if you want everything in them, and usually worth it if one unit isn't something you want. Unfortunately, the last two Tyranid boxes were kind of bad, and they're both out of print anyway.

Two-faction boxes have some doofy nonsense name, like Eldritch Omens or Wrath of the Soul Forge King. Generally, they have 3-4 units for each side, and at least some of those models are either brand new or (were at the time of release) exclusive to that boxed set. You can find splits of these while they're current but there aren't any current ones atm. The limited edition boxes at the start of each edition are like these, only bigger. Generally you don't see these unless a faction is getting a bunch of updates, so Tyranids haven't seen one for almost a decade, but are decently likely to get one pretty soon. These are some of the best deals as long as you can sell the other half of the split for about half of the actual price you're going to pay. Starter boxes are like these but generally smaller and cheaper, and have some of the same units that was in the big edition-starter box, but generally are a bit worse value on a good day, and on a bad day are diluted with overpriced plastic terrain or hobby tools.

Big boxes come in a few different styles but they're all basically the same thing. They're 4-6 units, possibly one or two of them a vehicle or monster. Big line refreshes have seen one of these as a "limited edition" box, including a bunch of the new units and the accompanying new codex. They also do a box for multiple factions for Christmas. All of these boxes are, in practice, limited edition unless they completely suck. (You can still find the Admech Christmas battleforce box if you look, lol.) Generally, these are better than buying units a la carte if you think you can use more than half of it. You might be able to resell some of the stuff you don't need to defray the cost, but you aren't the first one to have this idea, so any really bad units or unique characters are likely to be glutted in resale markets.

If a price seems like it's too good to be true, you found a recaster. I'm not going to get into how to find recasters, but some of them have good enough SEO to show up in a cursory search, so it's good to know how to ID them. They're usually based in Russia, Ukraine, or China, they usually ship new models internationally, and they pretty much always sell resin models. In particular, any Forge World models on eBay that don't come with their packaging are probably recasts, even if they're from another country, since they were once much more common and many people still have them in their collection. Resin is more brittle than plastic or metal and the sculpts may have problems, but brand-new recasts of GW's resin models - Finecast models ("finely-detailed resin") or from Forge World - are generally about as good as GW's quality these days. Resin also dissolves in more solvents, so don't drop it in isopropyl or any harsher solvent to strip paint or glue.

Guides on Plastic Glue (which isn't glue)

Cease to Hope posted:

Speaking of which, a while back I found an incredible guide to using plastic cement, both to make bonds but also a bunch of secondary applications. And, for once, it's not a gd video.

For these guides, GW plastic models and bases are styrene (except for clear plastic canopies), but third-party bases may not be, even if they're plastic.


This is on the site of some store I've never heard of, but people said they're reputable if you live in Canada. Either way, the guides are very useful.

Stripping Paint

Cease to Hope posted:

I dunno why I wrote a whole giant effortpost for stripping paint but here it is.

First off, if the models are filthy, wash them with regular dish soap and a dish towel. Hand-safe dish soap won't damage any models as long as you don't break out an abrasive scrubber. It's not that solvents can't wash these off but it's just pointless contamination.

Regardless of what solvent you use, the basic process is the same. For handling, you want gloves (latex/rubber is always fine, nitrile almost always), and always do this in an area with active circulation or outdoors. If you're inside and can smell what you're using but can't hear the circulation, that's probably not somewhere you should be doing this.

If the solvent won't destroy the actual model, let it soak while fully immersed in a sealed container for about an hour, overnight, or a couple of days, depending on the strength of the solvent and the paint used. If the solvent will destroy the model, either let it soak for 5-15 minutes (probably best to test with scrap material) or go straight to the active cleaning. If there's some part that will be actually destroyed by the solvent that you don't care about (eg bases, the plastic parts of an old mixed metal/plastic Warhammer model), it's probably best to break most of it off as early as possible. If you can't, check daily and get the ruined part out of the soak as soon as it's easy to break off.

Whether or not you soak, the actual cleaning process is the same. Get a brush with firm flexible bristles, like a toothbrush or nylon brush. (The firmer the bristles, the lighter the touch.) You're mainly looking to push the paint off of the model, since scrubbing can lead to an uneven coat of leftover paint that smooths out all the details, or actually abrade the details of the model itself. Dab on more solvent with the brush as you go. (If the solvent will damage the model, make sure to dab it off with a paper towel after.) Once you've gotten all of the loose paint off, you can soak again if necessary. Once you're done, all of the solvents you should actually use evaporate in open air, so just let the model sit in a well-circulated or outdoor place.

As for picking solvents:

If you need to strip acrylic paint (pretty much any water- or alcohol-based paint), your best bet IMO is isopropyl alcohol, ideally 90% or 99%. You can get it in a pharmacy. (If you have them on hand, other high-concentration alcohols - methyl/ated or "denatured" alcohol, distilled spirits, everclear - can work, just not as well.) Alcohols are nonreactive with everything models are commonly made of except resin, so it won't destroy detail unless you physically abrade it off. It's also pretty much the least toxic popular choice for stripping model paint except some of the non-toxic patent cleaners. Still, use nitrile/rubber gloves and do it outdoors or in a place with active circulation.

Alcohols can be disposed of by letting them evaporate (outside!) or at paint disposal sites. (Recycling centers can often do this.) If you filter out the paint residue, most alcohols can also be dumped down the drain if you dilute them as you do, so like pouring slowly into a fully running sink or dumping them in the toilet. Concentrated alcohol or a significant amount of solid paint residue are bad for household pipes, though, and you really don't want to be dumping isopropyl into a septic system. Solid paint residue separated from the solvent is just trash. Alcohols pretty much never attack their containers, either.

If it's not acrylic paint, you will need something harsher. Unfortunately, all of these react with styrene plastic (and most other soft thermoplastics used in miniatures and model kits). However, all of these are safe for metal models and still work to remove acrylic paint, so if you want to skip straight to the harsh stuff because you have it on hand and already know how to handle it, be my guest. Anything from here on down generally needs to be disposed of at a paint or toxic household waste disposal site. Dumping them into a sewer system or regular trash is very stupid and may even be illegal.

Turpentine (not "mineral turpentine" or "odorless turpentine", the real thing) is the traditional paint thinner, and usually what people mean when they say "paint thinner" with no other qualifications. It's your best bet for removing pretty much any hobby paint, and most other paints someone might've put on a model. However, it will react with most plastics that model kits are made out of, particularly styrene, the thermoplastic most wargame models are made of. In particular, Testors, Revell, and Tamiya all have enamel lines that are or were popular for hobby paint and model kits.

Turpentine is a good balance of being actually harsh enough to work quickly without being so harsh that it's guaranteed to cause damage. You can dab, brush, and dab off on plastic models without causing too much damage. It's also similar to alcohol in that you can filter it, dispose of it by letting it evaporate outside, and in that any turpentine-soiled trash can be dried outside and then just tossed out normally. Alternately, you can just treat it as toxic waste. Note that clear containers of turpentine in the sun or bags full of turpentine-contaminated trash are both spontaneous ignition hazards. They are literally oil-soaked rags.

Acetone (non-odorless nail polish remover) is the magic bullet of last resort. It will dissolve basically any paint, basically any hobby plastic, and break down basically any hobby glue. It's the go-to to clean a model fouled with superglue, too. However, it also attacks nitrile gloves and quite a few kinds of plastic container. You can usually buy it at any pharmacy or grocery store or department store as nail polish remover, but try to get 100% acetone since there are other solvents used in some nail polish removers. (And "odorless nail polish remover" is not acetone at all.) You can also occasionally get it as glue remover, although there are a few other common solvents sold under that name.

The main reason you'd need acetone is because someone used lacquer paint, a spray paint/varnish intended for actual cars or outdoor furniture, or something completely bizarre like house paint or nail polish. (There are hobby lacquer paints from companies like Tamiya or AK but they're mainly aimed at model cars or RC/drone vehicles, which are made from different plastics.) Any plastic model with a paint like this is a writeoff unless you can just paint over it. When working with it, do it outside or with an actual fume hood, and wear actual rubber/latex gloves. (Again, acetone dissolves nitrile.)

The actual acetone in the container it was sold in is a hazard but pretty typical household one, on par with camping fuel or spraycans. Don't keep it somewhere hot, don't leave it in the sun. If you need a new container, metal, glass and HDPE (recycle #2) plastic are nonreactive, and an opaque container is better. It attacks a number of common kinds of plastic, including recycle #1 and #3. While HDPE itself is fine, other plastics with that same sort of milk-jug texture generally aren't. You technically can filter acetone to reuse it, but that means a lot more tools you need to check for safety and more contaminated trash, and unlike weaker solvents, it tends to have more dissolved contamination from reaction products. It's not worth it.

Contaminated acetone is toxic waste. Acetone-soaked trash is both toxic waste and a spontaneous ignition hazard, like oil-soaked rags. All of that goes to paint disposal sites. Spills in well-ventilated spaces are not a big deal since acetone evaporates (unless it can damage what it was spilled on), but you don't want to dispose of a container of it that way.

Isopropyl, turpentine, and acetone aren't your only options. They're just the best ones, since you can get them as pure chemical rather than mixed solutions or secret formulas. Everyone has some sort of home remedy, and most of them can kinda work, if you're willing to work around their disadvantages.

First off, there are lots of things that seem like they work but don't actually do anything to paint. You can rub off pretty much any paint with simple mechanical abrasion. These are all basically comparable to soap and water, and you can have some success with some paints, especially older or cheaper acrylics on older unprimed miniatures. Mechanical action always risks abrading or crushing detail if you use too harsh a cleaning surface, do it for too long, or use too much pressure.

Actual abrasives are an option. Toothpaste, any gritty household cleaner, a wire brush, or any scraping blade. Obviously, this comes with a risk of damage.

Lots of people swear by various nontoxic patented household cleaners. Simple Green is really common but there are others. These usually kind of suck, and need to soak forever. Honestly, I find most people do some of the worst damage with these, because they end up scrubbing to make up for the weaknesses of the solvent. (Plus, you'll want to search online and make sure it doesn't actually dissolve plastic.) Most of them are a mix of some sort of enzyme and/or mild oddball solvent with some kind of surfactant/detergent (soap). Unlike pretty much literally everything here, they are a lot easier to use and dispose of, although you still don't want to pour solid paint residue down your sink unless you want some clogs with interesting colors.

Most household cleaning solvents are close to useless. Ammonia and vinegar will dissolve some acrylic paints if you soak them in strong solutions for like a month. Bleach isn't useful. Don't bother.

Degreasers usually have some kind of useful solvent, but it can be a crapshoot which, and many of them are secret mixes. There's no general rule but I've never found one worth using. Note that some are dangerous for plastic, like orange degreaser (aka Orange TKO), whose main active ingredient is also sold as plastic cement.

Speaking of which, citrus solvent (aka citrus thinner, lots of brand names) is quite bad at dissolving dried paint but very effective at ruining styrene plastic. It's only good for long soaks for metal minis, and is mildly less toxic than turpentine, but not so much you wouldn't still want to take the normal precautions.

There are a lot of petroleum-based solvents that can work. These are not one single solvent but a class of them and generally sold as a mixture, so they have lots of names. They're also called white spirits, mineral turpentine, and petroleum spirits. Naphtha solvent is part of this family. Paint thinner or nail polish remover that specifies it isn't turpentine or acetone but doesn't specify what it is, that's also probably a mineral spirit. Odorless paint thinner is also almost always a mineral spirit, albeit a less harsh one.

Mineral spirits are usable. They are a bit less effective on paint than turpentine (especially odorless thinner, since the chemicals with harsh smells are the harsh solvents), and they often attack plastic even more aggressively. They do actually work, though, they're just kinda worse all-around compared to proper turpentine.

Glycol-ethers are another family of chemicals, and, when they're pure, they all work more or less about as well as turpentine or mineral spirits, while also destroying styrene plastic. (Formaldehyde or glycol as part of a chemical name is a common tell. Alternately, methyl- or ethyl- can be a tell, but methyl and ethyl alcohols are alcohols.) You don't actually want to buy these to use as paint stripper, in any event. They're usually too expensive at a proper concentration, many of them don't evaporate cleanly, and most of the ways they're sold are mixed with other problematic ingredients. I mention them because there are hobby "spot remover", "glue remover", or "paint remover" products that are safe for other kinds of plastic, not the ones generally used in miniatures. Also a lot of One Weird Trick home remedies are something with a high concentration of glycol-ether, like brake fluid or antifreeze. They're just a pain in the rear end and they have no advantages over other options except that you might already own them.

Anyone who advises you to use actual fuel is a maniac. Thankfully I don't see this any more, but people used to suggest poo poo like kerosene. Not only is this an incredibly stupid fire hazard, contaminated fuel with paint or melted plastic in it is a pain in the rear end to dispose of and leaves you with a container of fuel that will wreck an engine or stove, if not start a fire. Do not do this.

If someone has One Weird Trick that sounds interesting, search for the name of the product and SDS or MSDS. Pretty much every compound that actually works on paint that isn't an abrasive is flammable or toxic, and that means shipping it requires a standardized disclosure sheet. This is a good way to figure out what is actually in something before you go and dunk a model in it.

Edit: I forgot ultrasonic cleaners. They work, even the ones made for silverware, jewelry, or dentures. They are technically mechanical rather than chemical, but they won't generally damage detail.

However, do not put flammable solvents in household ultrasonic cleaners. This includes alcohol, even though lots of idiots will tell you to put isopropyl in one. It works! It can also explode. Do not clean your minis with a bomb. There are explosion-proof industrial cleaners that are certified to not spark and you can use those with solvents, but generally they're not consumer-oriented as far as I know.

Cheater's Guide to a Limited Palette

Cease to Hope posted:

in traditional art, a limited palette is using a limited set of primary pigments that create an overall effect defined by the limitations of those pigments. but you do actually mix those pigments. on minis, most likely we are not doing that. i mean you can if you want but idk why you'd mix your paints from the primary pigments with quick drying acrylics.

instead using a limited palette on minis with hobby acrylics means limiting yourself to give the same effect as a limited palette. this is not painting all of your dudes the same main color, but rather choosing the colors that you would naturally have if your yellow primary was warmer or cooler or your blue primary was brilliant or soft or whatever.

you can take art classes to see what various pigments can do but you can get like 80% of the effect by picking about 4-6 paints that look good together (your hues), a tint (white or something close), and a shade (a black or dark grey, or even a brown or a purple). rather than fooling with primaries like you're painting a painting, you're skipping a step ahead and only mixing your (probably half or mostly secondary) hues with your tint and shade. you can mix your hues too, you just probably want fewer of them if you do that.

at this point you can use the good old base-shade-rebase-highlight wargamer classic. as long as you pick citadel-style triads that match your hues mixed with your tint/shade colors, you can just use those. the point is not literally less containers of paint (since these triads are just readymade versions of the ways both fine artists and wargamers mix their paints as needed anyway) but rather fewer overall hues.

there are two cool benefits of this.

first, if you're disciplined and do not give into "well, maybe one more color" (too often), it will make your whole army look cohesive without needing to all be the same color. wargamers obviously benefit from all of their work look cohesive! not only that, but it gives you more freedom to experiment with which colors are the main ones, because the warm yellow details on one squad match with the dominant warm yellow on the tank.

second, it is so much less hassle. you have so many fewer paint pots to sift through and so much less worrying about finding the perfect color. you can just put away the bulk of your paint collection and focus on arranging the colors you already decided on. (this also dampens the temptation to buy new paints midproject. a little. i've heard.)

a nice side benefit is that you really get to appreciate the qualities of a particular paint. you really get to see VMC's sunbeaten dull mattes or citadel's bold satin colors with just the weirdest mixes sometimes. (how is orruk green a warm pea green? wizardry i swear.) also how VMC pale sand is skill in a bottle 2.0.

there is some more advanced parts of this and i'm not gonna pretend to have a keen grasp of all that but it is a tool you can you to achieve both consistency and ease of use.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Aug 4, 2023

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



does the "woo woo woo" arm pump while pointing at the Chaos Space Marines section

Kitchner
Nov 9, 2012

IT CAN'T BE BARGAINED WITH.
IT CAN'T BE REASONED WITH.
IT DOESN'T FEEL PITY, OR REMORSE, OR FEAR.
AND IT ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT STOP, EVER, UNTIL YOU ADMIT YOU'RE WRONG ABOUT WARHAMMER
Clapping Larry

quote:

Warhammer 40k 10th Ed: A Power Fist, Stamping on a Tyranids Face - Forever

Umm, actually, the Tyranids won that campaign for their planet and we got to see their next model releases. I'm sure that was meaningful and not just GW saying "Hey, this will be a sentence in a future book and whomever loses will get an entire stream release reveal for their models later".

Another typical imperial propaganda stunt.

Axetrain
Sep 14, 2007

Kitchner posted:

Umm, actually, the Tyranids won that campaign for their planet and we got to see their next model releases. I'm sure that was meaningful and not just GW saying "Hey, this will be a sentence in a future book and whomever loses will get an entire stream release reveal for their models later".

Another typical imperial propaganda stunt.

Ground floor for the edition that brought me back after being gone since 3rd.

Have some Barbgaunts I did!



Also my Blood Angels Terminator Captain!

Axetrain fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Aug 3, 2023

3 Action Economist
May 22, 2002

Educate. Agitate. Liberate.
Al-Saqr went from "I think I might try Kill Team" to being the OP of the 10th Edition thread.

They grow up so fast.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Or just opportunistic.

Axetrain
Sep 14, 2007

I mean 10th has been out for a hot minute now, that was a long open window of opportunity. I'm glad somebody took the initiative.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I'm going to do some hobby things today, thanks new thread.

Gambrinus
Mar 1, 2005
When were Dark Eldar invented? (I don't mean in-universe, I mean in Nottingham).

I haven't played 40k properly since 2nd edition when I was a kid.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



I've been curious about the relative point values of the various Combat Patrol boxes (in part to try and figure out why Grey Knights have to choose between terminators or a Dreadknight) and I couldn't find a list of them anywhere, so here you go, first page:

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Gambrinus posted:

When were Dark Eldar invented? (I don't mean in-universe, I mean in Nottingham).

I haven't played 40k properly since 2nd edition when I was a kid.

They got their first models for 3rd ed at least. Pretty sure they've puttered around in the lore for a bit longer than that.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Gambrinus posted:

When were Dark Eldar invented? (I don't mean in-universe, I mean in Nottingham).

As an army? I wanna say they debuted in 3rd edition. So like '98?

Gambrinus
Mar 1, 2005
Older than I thought then. I don't remember them being mentioned in the lore in the early-mid 90s, but could've missed it.

LGD
Sep 25, 2004

AndyElusive posted:

As an army? I wanna say they debuted in 3rd edition. So like '98?

that's correct, the 3rd edition box was Black Templar and Dark Eldar

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Gambrinus posted:

Older than I thought then. I don't remember them being mentioned in the lore in the early-mid 90s, but could've missed it.

Well 3rd edition didn't come out till (googles for exact) October 1998.

LGD
Sep 25, 2004

3rd was huge in terms of changes to 40k, tonally, rules-wise, and in terms of introducing new factions - beyond Dark Eldar, Necrons were also introduced right at the tail end of 2nd in 1998 as well (though their original incarnation is fairly removed from the [much, much, much better] modern version), Tau were added in 2001, Grey Knights, etc.

e: oh and of course a good number of 2E factions got 'squatted'

LGD fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Aug 3, 2023

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Gambrinus posted:

When were Dark Eldar invented? (I don't mean in-universe, I mean in Nottingham).

I haven't played 40k properly since 2nd edition when I was a kid.

There were Rogue Trader troops that could arguably be called Dark Eldar, or Pirate Eldar, or some combination of both. That would have been in 1988. In 1998 Dark Eldar were released and received their first codex. Dark Eldar did not receive another codex until 12 years later in 2010.


https://www.belloflostsouls.net/2023/02/warhammer-40k-retro-meet-the-original-1988-eldar-armylist.html

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




I think the longevity of 3rd is why GW does edition switches every couple of years now. Since that one lasted from 1998 to 2004.

LGD
Sep 25, 2004

Cooked Auto posted:

I think the longevity of 3rd is why GW does edition switches every couple of years now. Since that one lasted from 1998 to 2004.

yeah, though it'll be interesting to see if that continues given the apparent change in approach to rules distribution and updating, since it means there is potentially less financial incentive to try to sell people new codices

otoh the need to shake things up periodically in order to move kits hasn't gone away, so maybe not

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Gambrinus posted:

When were Dark Eldar invented? (I don't mean in-universe, I mean in Nottingham).

I haven't played 40k properly since 2nd edition when I was a kid.

They'd been in the background of Eldar in a vague way since the earliest days, and were alluded to in RT and the 2e Eldar codex.

The faction as it exists now, suffering vampires led by Asdrubael Vect and hateful scourge to everyone, that was invented in 1998 for 3e. They were opposite SM in the 3e starter box.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




LGD posted:

yeah, though it'll be interesting to see if that continues given the apparent change in approach to rules distribution and updating, since it means there is potentially less financial incentive to try to sell people new codices

otoh the need to shake things up periodically in order to move kits hasn't gone away, so maybe not

I mean there are probably multiple reasons, but I think they realised that they let 3rd edition linger for too long. Especially considering some armies got multiple codex releases under the same edition.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I prefer the longer edition timeframe. 3 years is a very short amount of time for them to get things in a good place and closed to balanced, and pretty much as soon as they start getting there they throw most of it away and start over again. 6+ years and multiple codices during an edition would be fine, especially if the codices are just the updated and balanced army list for the faction or better yet focused on a subfaction with a quick chart and update for the older models in the line.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I prefer the longer edition timeframe. 3 years is a very short amount of time for them to get things in a good place and closed to balanced, and pretty much as soon as they start getting there they throw most of it away and start over again. 6+ years and multiple codices during an edition would be fine, especially if the codices are just the updated and balanced army list for the faction or better yet focused on a subfaction with a quick chart and update for the older models in the line.

Agreed, hopefully this one sticks around a while. It seems pretty solid.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




I think by now they've gotten the basics down pat, hopefully 11th ed will only see minor alterations to the formula and just some refinements.

Improbable Lobster
Jan 6, 2012

What is the Matrix 🌐? We just don't know 😎.


Buglord
Outered space

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
I sold off my 40k stuff a few months ago but now I'm coming back for 10th with Sisters and 1k Sons.

Hell yeah, gonna play a stupid list with Magnus and two lords of change.

S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

Picked the best poster for the OP imo

Sephyr
Aug 28, 2012

Count Thrashula posted:

I sold off my 40k stuff a few months ago but now I'm coming back for 10th with Sisters and 1k Sons.

Hell yeah, gonna play a stupid list with Magnus and two lords of change.

1 witch, 2 birbs.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

S.J. posted:

Picked the best poster for the OP imo

DancingShade
Jul 26, 2007

by Fluffdaddy
I've still got a Dark Vengeance box set I need to think about assembling and painting one day.

I stole a bunch of the bases for other things but the sprues are still intact. One day. Most of my old chaos marines were embarassingly badly painted or tossed so I'm going to start fresh when I pick this up again. Maybe go green. That's right. Metallic green thousand sons. Dark angels if I just contrast.

a fatguy baldspot
Aug 29, 2018

Count Thrashula posted:

I sold off my 40k stuff a few months ago but now I'm coming back for 10th with Sisters and 1k Sons.

Hell yeah, gonna play a stupid list with Magnus and two lords of change.

I played against a list today that was Magnus, Kairos, and a bunch of rubrics and terminators. It was fun, I killed the big nerd and got indirectly blasted by the big bird.

I also made a guy that I’m going to proxy for an ultramarines character. I think he looks pretty wizardly. Beware his powers…unspeakable powers…!

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Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Xposted from the Black Library thread:

I have an odd/dumb question. I started reading the first Yarrick novel, and early on they encounter a construct that Yarrick calls a Gargoyle. It's described as being a tall cylander with a central command point surrounded by AA cannons at the top, on four lizard-like metal legs, with four arms each bearing different weapons. They mention an Earthshaker Cannon as one arm, six Leman Russ battle cannons as "fingers" on the second arm, a Storm Eagle missle launcher on the third, but there's no mention of the weapons on the fourth arm.

If I wanted to make this "gargoyle" in real life, what would fit as the final arm? It's described as being built for long-range bombardment and having no close-range anti-personnel weapons, and the world is said to have heavy factories, but not the capability to make Titan-sized vehicles, so I'm assuming the cannons from a Baneblade or Shadowsword would be out of the question.

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