Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
Not Very Metal
Aug 3, 2007

Shit Fuck Shit Fuck!


brilliant, thank you both!

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

thegasman2000
Feb 12, 2005
Update my TFLC log? BOLLOCKS!
/
:backtowork:
I plumbed mine under my kitchen sink. When I need water I flip the valve and fill a 25lt container. Then i carry that to my tank and plop my ato pump inside said container.

Bruce Boxlicker
Jul 26, 2004



Fun Shoe
Just filled up my new p650.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Bruce Boxlicker
Jul 26, 2004



Fun Shoe
Cleared up a little.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Looking good!

Mak0rz
Aug 2, 2008

😎🐗🚬

We have a big 105 gallon (400L) coldwater tank that's overstuffed because the zoology instructors went nuts. We have a super efficient bio filter so the nitrogen waste numbers are great but I'm concerned about the carbonate levels with all of those new molluscs and other shellmakers in there. What kind of numbers am I looking for here?

Also the guy I'm filling in for suggested adding CaCO3 solution to it if the carbonate hardness goes out of whack but I don't know how much I should be throwing in. I don't want to accidentally end up with 400 liters of cold salty acid :ohdear:

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Mak0rz posted:

We have a big 105 gallon (400L) coldwater tank that's overstuffed because the zoology instructors went nuts. We have a super efficient bio filter so the nitrogen waste numbers are great but I'm concerned about the carbonate levels with all of those new molluscs and other shellmakers in there. What kind of numbers am I looking for here?

Also the guy I'm filling in for suggested adding CaCO3 solution to it if the carbonate hardness goes out of whack but I don't know how much I should be throwing in. I don't want to accidentally end up with 400 liters of cold salty acid :ohdear:

You can use a two-part method to individually adjust Calcium and alkalinity, but they're coupled (along with pH). This write-up is helpful: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

How are you doing biological filtration? I've always wanted to do a cold water tank

Not Very Metal
Aug 3, 2007

Shit Fuck Shit Fuck!
our foray into the marine aquarium life is coming along slowly but surely, and we're acquiring the last of our equipment. just need to get our return pump, display tank light, and the RODI system. I'm looking at the light and RODI below; thoughts, comments, concerns with my choices?

Lights

RODI

I figure the 100gpd on the RODI will be sufficient for the 55g marine and 38g freshwater displays we have, with some room if when we go bigger.

Bulky Bartokomous
Nov 3, 2006

In Mypos, only the strong survive.

Not Very Metal posted:

our foray into the marine aquarium life is coming along slowly but surely, and we're acquiring the last of our equipment. just need to get our return pump, display tank light, and the RODI system. I'm looking at the light and RODI below; thoughts, comments, concerns with my choices?

Lights

RODI

I figure the 100gpd on the RODI will be sufficient for the 55g marine and 38g freshwater displays we have, with some room if when we go bigger.

RODI is not recommend for freshwater aquariums. They need the dissolved minerals. You could add some stuff back in but there are very few situations where it is worth the hassle.

Not Very Metal
Aug 3, 2007

Shit Fuck Shit Fuck!

Bulky Bartokomous posted:

RODI is not recommend for freshwater aquariums. They need the dissolved minerals. You could add some stuff back in but there are very few situations where it is worth the hassle.

ah, thank you - noted!

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Bulky Bartokomous posted:

RODI is not recommend for freshwater aquariums. They need the dissolved minerals. You could add some stuff back in but there are very few situations where it is worth the hassle.

What minerals? I've been using rodi on my fw tank for years, since I already have it for the sw tank. If you're compensating for evaporation I'd think you'd want really pure water since minerals are left behind.

thegasman2000
Feb 12, 2005
Update my TFLC log? BOLLOCKS!
/
:backtowork:
It also depends on your source water. Guppies for example don’t do as well in hard water so a 50:50 ro and tap works best for them if you water is hard like mine.

Also I thought discus freaks used rodi and dosed mineral salts?


In other news I got some new anthias and frags. All looked good and then my led ballast tried to burn my house down :/

Bulky Bartokomous
Nov 3, 2006

In Mypos, only the strong survive.

thegasman2000 posted:

It also depends on your source water. Guppies for example don’t do as well in hard water so a 50:50 ro and tap works best for them if you water is hard like mine.

Also I thought discus freaks used rodi and dosed mineral salts?


In other news I got some new anthias and frags. All looked good and then my led ballast tried to burn my house down :/

Discus are an exception because they are so particular it’s often easier to start with pure water and add different products to get it right.

Bulky Bartokomous
Nov 3, 2006

In Mypos, only the strong survive.

DeadlyMuffin posted:

What minerals? I've been using rodi on my fw tank for years, since I already have it for the sw tank. If you're compensating for evaporation I'd think you'd want really pure water since minerals are left behind.

Iron, potassium, phosphate, etc. Remember, fish drink too. It’s fine to use for top off, but everything I’ve ever read on the topic says it’s not good for plants especially, but fish as well.

Rallos
Aug 1, 2004
Live The Music
Plants take minerals and stuff like it of the water column just like corals do so RODI is especially bad for freshwater because unlike saltwater the minerals don’t get added back through salt mix.

Mak0rz
Aug 2, 2008

😎🐗🚬

DeadlyMuffin posted:

You can use a two-part method to individually adjust Calcium and alkalinity, but they're coupled (along with pH). This write-up is helpful: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

How are you doing biological filtration? I've always wanted to do a cold water tank

Whoops sorry I forgot about this thread for some reason. Rather than mess with the calcium I decided to just make time for a water change.

I'll try to get pictures if I remember but there's a pretty wild complex of bioballs and other such bacteria media near where the animal chamber drains, and down in the refugium there's a jungle of algae that keeps things under wraps too. The last tech decided to overhaul the thing for the expressed purpose of dealing with the zoology load every winter.

The guy that we call to service the tank was quite impressed with it.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Crosspost from fw thread, but hey it's got my reef tank in the pic and this thread is slow!

Picked up an ip camera this weekend so I can monitor some of my tanks. It's also got two-way audio built in, which might come in handy next time I need a tank-sitter for vacation. That's my frontosa tank on the left, reef tank in center and demasoni tank on the right. Treadmill is blocking view of a couple of smaller tanks, so I might try to mount this sucker on the ceiling.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


What camera did you get? How do you like it?

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


It's a Foscam R2 1080p. Fairly cheap and seems to do the job well. Picture isn't that hot when you zoom in, but it's good enough to notice if there is something wrong with one of the tanks.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Enos Cabell posted:

I've had aiptasia start popping up in my tank again after the reboot too. Ordered 10 berghia nudibranch, going to try to let them do their thing again over the next few months.

Update from a couple months later: as far as I can tell, all aiptasia are gone from my tank now. The nudibranchs even made it down into the sump to clear out the aiptasia that took up residence in my chaeto. Now I'm pulling out the nudibranchs I can find to sell them to my LFS, before they all start to die off.

edit: also should mention that the GHA I've been fighting for the past few months is starting to turn brown and die off. Tank is coming up on 9 months, so that seems about normal I guess.

tuo
Jun 17, 2016

Heyho fellow salty goons.

Can anyone here give me some good tips on how to remove anemones? And no, I don't mean aptasia, I mean E. quadricolor/bubble tip anemones.

I put one in my tank about four and a half years ago together with clownfish. The problem is, that sucker spawns an offspring about once a year by dividing, and some of the offspring tend to do the same after about two years. I currenlty have nine in the tank....one (luckily) walked into a pump two years ago, another was foolish enough to show me it's foot one day and I was able to get her out. All the other ones have their feet planted deep into the rocks, and the problem is my rocks are glued together, so I can't even take them out and scrub them off.

Of course, they destroy nearly all LPS on their damage tour through my tank.

What I tried:
- putting a plant pot over them in hope they move due to missing light => they simply rear their ugly pink tentacled head out of another slit in the rocks
- touching them with a silver spoon => they are not even interested in this
- pulling them => they simply vanish in the rocks, and if I actually pull too hard (thus damanaging part of their tissue), they simply spread into two the next couple days and both survive
- point a pump at them => I get the feeling the suckers even enjoy it

My plan is to remove all but two, because if they divide any more, I will have an anemone-only tank in couple of years.

Did anyone here ever have a similar problem, and knows of ways how to remove them? Killing is an option, but I am doubtful about that due to all the poo poo they release into the water

my tank has about 680 litres/180 gallons.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


If you're open to killing them, you could try kalk paste, like people do for aptasia.

It's funny, I've always wanted to do an anenome tank, and it's on my list for some day when I have room.

tuo
Jun 17, 2016

DeadlyMuffin posted:

If you're open to killing them, you could try kalk paste, like people do for aptasia.

It's funny, I've always wanted to do an anenome tank, and it's on my list for some day when I have room.

I would definitely be my last option. I already asked in many forums if people want them if they manage to remove them, but sadly, no one bites.

My fear regarding kalk paste is that - similar to aptasia - they basically implode an spill all their guts all over the tank....I mean, my tank runs since over five years and is very stable regarding water quality, but I don't want to ruin anything. The one that walked into the pump was a new one, small, and the tank didn't care (I also wasn't there when it happened), but the big ones are about 20 to 25cm in diameter, and I have no idea what happens if I inject kalk paste into one of them :ohdear:

e: I know a friend who has a pure anemone tank...it is rather beautiful, but he also removed quite a lot of stones so that he has easy access to their foots. He has to remove a lot during a year, but he built the tank in a way that he can get them out easily and sell them...something I didn't think about when I put mine in :/

ee: I just noticed something I might have to take a closer look at. I tried my luck again couple of minutes ago on one that showed a little bit of foot, but without luck. I damaged it a bit (not on the foot), but now my aptasia-killing c. rostratus can't stop picking at that spot, and the anemone already seems totally pissed (thin tentacles so I guess it's doing an internal water change). Gonna hope the rostratus has some BIG appetite in the coming hours....

tuo fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Mar 23, 2018

tuo
Jun 17, 2016

To anyone with a similar problem: you can remove the big ones the same way you kill aptasia.

You actually only need a very, very little amount of kalk paste. Put it on their mouth, and wait couple of hours. They'll crawl out of wherever they were hiding and are basically half dead/won't stick to the stones any longer. You can then savely remove them.

It's sad I had to do this, but I removed four of eleven this way, so that at least the left part of my tank now is anemone-free and I can put some corals there again.

Note that - allthough they don't explode right away - the water stinks of dead anemone, so I wouldn't advice this for a tank with unstable biology. I'm currently doing a big water exchange to be on the safe side.

In a couple of weeks, I will remove another three or four. It's very sad I have to remove them this way and can't simply gift them to someone, but it's a lesson learned. As beautiful as they are, they duplicate the same as any other anemone, and can become a problem over time.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Vienna Circlejerk
Jan 28, 2003

The great science sausage party!
Has anyone here had any experience with ordering uncured aquacultured live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater or KP Aquatics, dumping it into a tank, and seeing what crawls out?

About 15 years ago I did this as an experiment with a 10 gallon nano setup in my basement and some rock from TBS, and managed to maintain it reasonably well for about a year until grad school and a new baby conspired to cause me to neglect it entirely too much. While it was going, though, it was absolutely amazing, with some cup corals, small gorgonians, tiny brittle stars, a couple sponges, small feather dusters, a nice Christmas tree worm, a couple spiny urchins, tunicates, and more stuff I don't remember. The rocks themselves were pretty blah, just lumps, but they were loaded with life and there was hardly any die-off. Regular water changes and strong current seemed to keep it going pretty well, although added inverts never did as well as the ones that rode in on the rocks.

Anyway, now that grad school is a distant bad memory and the baby is a teenager, I'm thinking of repeating this on a much larger scale in my living room with a proper setup instead of some powerheads and a DIY PC light. Is this madness? Aside from that one experiment, all my aquarium experience has been freshwater. I've always approached every tank project by reading up and carefully selecting everything I put in, but there's just something so gonzo about this that I love it (and the fact that there's nothing similar you can do in freshwater).

  • Locked thread