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IOwnCalculus posted:*Fix the headlight wiring, since somehow I managed to mix up the high and low beam Fixed the wiring and remounted the headlights. I'd somehow managed to get both of them mounted cockeyed in the buckets before while fighting time and gravity. The buckets come out by just pulling the bezel and three 8mm nuts on the backend, so I pulled them and remounted the headlights on the workbench with the light facing up and was able to easily align it. Also replaced the TJ's clockspring with the modified one. No photos because my dremel job was hideous, but it absolutely works fine. The green plastic was a lot softer than I expected. Canyon, meanwhile, has yet to re-trigger that airbag code. I'm going to write it off as a one-off event for now.
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Mar 30, 2024 06:59
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:09 |
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Today, working on an entirely different class of vehicle - the extremely German (hecho en Mexico, according to the VIN) 2021 Tiguan that a friend owns. She was on her way over anyway and mentioned that her check engine light was on. So I plug in the scanner and of course it can't just be regular Pxxxx codes: Google provided no real help on the parking aid button or databus implausible messages, but U350100 seems to just be a matter of the PCM seeing voltage too low. So I pull up the live data and sure enough it's seeing just over 12.0V. Verified with a meter that the voltage the PCM was seeing was within 0.05V of what my meter saw at the battery. Start it back up and it cranks over just fine despite the low voltage, then the alternator slowly ramps back up to 14V. Shut it off again and in a matter of maybe five minutes it's down to 11.96V. Cleared codes for shits and grins and both the U350100 and B107F11 come back immediately. The battery appeared to be original (meaning, very close to four years of AZ heat) and I couldn't find any other plausible cause so I called it bad. I tried to look up what battery it took on Costco's site, but we can't just have one battery for a Tiguan, no:  These are apparently similar to GM RPO codes, except that there's no convenient sticker in the car with a list of them. Apparently sometimes it's on a build sheet stuck in the rear seat base. Don't think it ended up mattering much because about half of those just show Costco claiming not to carry the battery, which is often bullshit. So off to Costco we go. Me: "Yeah, we need a battery for a 2021 Tiguan" Costco guy: *sigh* "You're not the first person today. We list six different batteries for it and I have no idea which is which. He bought an H6 and said he'd come back to let us know. He hasn't come back yet." Me: "Well, I've got the old one here" Costco guy: "That helps." It is indeed an H6. Now that I'm googling from my computer instead of my phone, I did find a VWVortex thread confirming that, because nothing about the stupid loving part number "5TA 915 105 B" gives anything useful to go on. Pop the new H6 in, fire the car up. Dashboard goes full christmas tree. Pull the codes and it appears that everything has poo poo a brick from a combination of unable to communicate over CAN because the battery got unplugged, and being angry that the steering wheel position sensor isn't calibrated. Turns out that all you need to do with the latter is crank the wheel lock to lock. Also had to tell the car it had a new AGM battery instead of the wet cell battery it came with, clear codes again, and this time they stay off. It fixed everything but I'm still perplexed about how a battery that was obviously toast, would still crank the car over hard. Startup sounded absolutely no different with the brand new AGM battery, but its voltage was dead solid after shutting the car off. I'll also throw in a small rage here about their stupid sensorless TPMS. It relies on relative wheel speeds to detect a flat tire, but it doesn't do poo poo if every tire is exactly 14PSI low (which they were).
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Mar 31, 2024 05:47
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I love that VW doesn't use real tpms. Great when swapping winter wheels. But yeah that's on the owner to say least mildly pay attention. Battery stuff seems nice for early warning detection. Better to check codes and see it than end up stranded in a couple weeks I guess?
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Mar 31, 2024 14:12
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VW battery lookup is the worst. Put a 2004 Passat with the specific trim and engine size into the O'Reilly website and it will still show H5, H6, and H7 batteries. I just get the smallest one because it's a pain to get it under the cowl. Speaking of size though, do consider that the Tiguan has a 2 liter 4 cylinder engine and you weren't cranking a cold soaked engine for that matter. It was probably turning over just as easy on 12.0 as 14.whatever because there's just not much metal to spin and air volume to compress compared to say an SBC. But I'm just a middling car idiot.
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Mar 31, 2024 18:26
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I've had plenty of four cylinders crank slow on soft batteries before; there was absolutely no discernable difference, that Tiguan cranked hard with the old battery and the new one. The Jeep set a new record for "time from fixed to broken" yesterday. While driving home on Friday I went over a bump and one of the accessory fuses blew, almost certainly because there was an unterminated (but unstripped) wire attached to it that managed to find ground just long enough. I took that as an excuse to finish cleaning up the wiring and fixed every half-done wiring job. Literally as I was turning the Jeep off after verifying the fix, the loving starter switch actuator pin snapped again. Ordered the third replacement from Autozone this time so I have a lifetime warranty, but if this poo poo keeps up I'm going to just yank the factory switch and put in some form of keyed master and regular switches mounted in the dash.
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Apr 8, 2024 05:11
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Janky Electrics Everywhere is Problematic
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Apr 8, 2024 16:11
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:09 |
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Just Empty Every Pocket... for the Jimmy. Money light is back on, because of course it is. I now understand why people REDACTED modern diesels. This time, the same two codes for the EGR cooler / bypass, and a third - P1050, "implausible DEF level", along with a DEF level of "--%". The diagnostics for P1050 are dead simple. If code, then replace DEF pump, because the pump and sender and heater are all one big non-serviceable assembly. It doesn't even look like too terrible a job. But the pump? Five hundred loving dollars. Likewise, at this point I've validated that the EGR cooler and bypass assemblies are clean and the computer can control them but it's still not happy enough after a month and a half of driving. Those, plus new gaskets? Another four hundo. Since the ol' wallet is already feeling a bit like  , what's a little more? A set of Bilstein 4600 shocks for another four hundo.And finally, a Trailblazer P10 ECU from eBay for a whole $20 because goddamnit I want something to work on because I want to and that's cheap enough to see if PCMhammer has gotten enough control over the P10/P12 to consider an Atlas swap for the TJ.
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Apr 11, 2024 06:33
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