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moths posted:I haven't tried it yet, but shooting Vallejo polyurethane primer through an airbrush should eliminate the solvent interaction since there's no propellant. Yep, works just fine. The Badger Stynylrez primer works just fine too.
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Feb 18, 2018 22:11
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Well given this I’m going to try soak one in Simple Green, cover one in a matte brush on base, cover one in brush on gloss and spray one with dullcoat. Worst case I just buy a new lot.
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Feb 18, 2018 22:13
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Oh cool, I'll look into Stynylrez too.
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Feb 18, 2018 22:17
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It's no exaggeration: you genuinely don't need to prime them. Laying down a solid layer of colour so you can see the detail helps, but primer is unnecessary as long as your base coat isn't too thin.
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Feb 18, 2018 23:28
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I had some that I primed before I read that you shouldn't do that, and I painted over the tacky primer. They came out fine, no difference from un-primed or primed with brush-on primer. I will warn you not to do what I did, and leave them sitting around for a while with a cat in the house before you paint them. I spent as much time picking cat hair off of them as I did painting them.
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Feb 18, 2018 23:40
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I've had a lot of success with Brown Liner from reaper. Base coating hasn't worked well for me because some paints bead up if thinned at all. Use the liner - goes on thin, highlights details and is now my primer for all Bones.
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Feb 18, 2018 23:48
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I had some that I primed before I read that you shouldn't do that, and I painted over the tacky primer. They came out fine, no difference from un-primed or primed with brush-on primer. I will warn you not to do what I did, and leave them sitting around for a while with a cat in the house before you paint them. I spent as much time picking cat hair off of them as I did painting them. I tried that with the first one but the Tamiya paint doesn’t seem to go down well. VMC is fine though.
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Feb 19, 2018 00:02
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moths posted:I haven't tried it yet, but shooting Vallejo polyurethane primer through an airbrush should eliminate the solvent interaction since there's no propellant. I do this. It works fine. I find it a lot easier than trying to spray on base coats directly. It's not super durable though so use some heavy duty varnish. I usually use the dip method, so this isn't an issue. Cthulhu Dreams fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 03:29
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:I do this. It works fine. I find it a lot easier than trying to spray on base coats directly. Airbrush, dip, or paint on the varnish though. Even through a few layers of paint the bones can still get loving sticky from rattlecan varnish.
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Feb 19, 2018 03:52
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TacoNight posted:Got my first bones, letting my kids pick one each to paint. One got the bone devil whose legs don’t seem to support its weight. Any advice on stabilizing the figure so it stays standing? Do you mean this guy:  What's the issue? He should be self supporting. If he's all curled up then you can put him in hot water for a minute, shape him to your liking, and then dip him in ice water to shock him into shape. thespaceinvader posted:It's no exaggeration: you genuinely don't need to prime them. Laying down a solid layer of colour so you can see the detail helps, but primer is unnecessary as long as your base coat isn't too thin. Also Reaper paints are formulated specifically to work on Bones so if you're having issue try a bottle of that.
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Feb 19, 2018 04:15
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It's possible that Taco's has a bit too much plasticizer in it. That was an issue with the first round of Bones minis, though it's largely fixed in newer runs.
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Feb 19, 2018 04:34
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Cat Face Joe posted:Do you mean this guy: Yes, that’s the fellow. I used the hot water trick to stand it up, since it came fairly bent. However, I didn’t do the cold water step, I’ll do that next time. An hour later after straightening it couldn’t hold its own weight. It would slowly bend backwards under the weight of the wings. A day later, it looks to be in better shape, so I guess I underestimated how long it needed to cool.
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Feb 19, 2018 04:50
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If cooling doesn't work, you might try sticking a very thin paperclip or pin through the leg, or else add something terrainwise for him to lean on.
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Feb 19, 2018 05:23
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TacoNight posted:Yes, that’s the fellow. I used the hot water trick to stand it up, since it came fairly bent. However, I didn’t do the cold water step, I’ll do that next time. An hour later after straightening it couldn’t hold its own weight. It would slowly bend backwards under the weight of the wings. A day later, it looks to be in better shape, so I guess I underestimated how long it needed to cool. It's important to do the shock cooling: you're actually doing some sort of tempering to the plastic. Letting it cool slowly doesn't have the same effect. I straightened a ton of bones by just hanging out on a kitchen stool with an electric kettle, a pyrex measuring cup to pour boiling water into, a pair of chopsticks for dipping with, and a big bowl of ice water. Just assembly-line it. Even with near-boiling water you can directly handle the plastic within a couple seconds of pulling it out, position the limbs and swords etc. as you want, and then straight into the ice water. It'll feel nice and firm within like five seconds, max. If you don't mind adding a step, you can start with a third bowl contianing soapy water, to wash off any mold release that might be on the mini.
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Feb 19, 2018 05:59
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Update on my priming disaster: I tried coating one in Testor's Dullcote and...it's fine now! Bit of a waste of dullcote but at least I'll save my 8 minis. 
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Feb 19, 2018 06:59
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Felime posted:Airbrush, dip, or paint on the varnish though. Even through a few layers of paint the bones can still get loving sticky from rattlecan varnish. Yeah - if you are dipping with miniwax make sure you primed the fuckers correctly otherwise you will wreck it.
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Feb 19, 2018 08:47
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Red_Fred posted:Update on my priming disaster: I tried coating one in Testor's Dullcote and...it's fine now! Bit of a waste of dullcote but at least I'll save my 8 minis. The tackiness may return through the Dullcote again in 1-2 weeks. If it does, try this or similar, it'll seal away the tackiness forever, and is now my go-to for bones
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Feb 19, 2018 08:52
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I had been using the Liquitex polymer varnishes for years but recently switched to Vallejo acrylic varnish (not polyurethane varnish) due to a better matte. No clue if it would have the same chemical effect on tacky bones.
Paolomania fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 16:56
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Leperflesh posted:If you don't mind adding a step, you can start with a third bowl contianing soapy water, to wash off any mold release that might be on the mini. Comedy option: boil the minis in water with dish soap in it. You can reposition the figures, wash off the mold release agent, and clean your microwave in one step! I have a tendency to boil the living poo poo out of my Bonesium minis, usually for 45 seconds to a minute for the smaller figures and much longer for the big models, set pieces, etc. This seems to get rid of a lot of the mold release just in that step. There's also a thread on the Reaper forums, about a Bones user who was experimenting with soaking the minis in 90% isopropyl alcohol for an extended time after boiling and ice-watering them, to leach out the plasticizers that make them floppy. I guess they've gotten some good results from that. My own experiments with the alcohol method also worked fairly well to stiffen the plastic (though it's not foolproof; I still had to drill and insert a paperclip into the leg of the owlbear I recently completed to keep it from drooping). Primer-wise, I can confirm that Badger Stynylrez works well. It's polyurethane based, so it dries quickly and smoothly, and you can hand-brush it on if you don't have an airbrush. I recommend using it through an airbrush if you can, though, to take advantage of Badger's black-grey-white 3-pack for zenithal priming (a.k.a. The Best Priming Method).
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Feb 22, 2018 16:57
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