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Well here it is. The time has come to starting making some decisions about the future of my MR2. A bit of history, I bought this 1991 turbo in 2006, my second MR2. I started autocrossing it and doing track days and was consistently finishing in the top 10 at every event I did. Track tires wear out fast and money doesn't grow on trees, so I pulled back my involvement with it, only driving it in the summer and when my DD was down. Fast forward to today. I have a house with a garage and a slightly better budget. Unfortunately the years in the sun and neglect have not been kind to the old girl. Plus my aspirations to race against other cars has made me consider going with another model that has a class or series that it could be competitive in. All that changed when a local group announced the creation of a series called Racedaze. This is basically a "run what you brung" series where the cars are classed based on qualifying times and the only requirements are a cage and a comp license. Now I have to decide what route I am going to go with this car and I will update this thread as I make decisions and fix the problems it has.  Here it is now. The paint is pretty rough. There are a couple surface rust spots.  Here is the corrosion in the frunk. Getting jumped once a month evidently makes batteries leak acid. This will need to be addressed.  300zx wheels fit more tires. Triangle vents blew away on the interstate. Paint is ROUGH. Parking brake cable stretched. Car currently being used as storage.  That towel is hiding a world of hurt. The stock drivers seat is in even worse shape. If I keep the car on the road I will get some used cloth seats or recover the leather and ditch the recaro. I guess I will need some place to work if I'm going to do anything with it.  I guess this stuff can be put to use   Garage level 2:Upgrade complete
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Apr 26, 2014 04:24
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:33 |
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That is a fantastic license plate.
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Apr 26, 2014 05:09
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Now I come to my first crossroads as far as what I do now. I have a ST205 air to water intercooler that I can fit with minor modifications and drive it all summer enjoying my new more useable powerband and complete other minor projects on it OR The clutch is starting to slip, and while not needed due to miles, the timing belt is 14 years old and probably could use replacement. Neither job requires engine removal but both are a huge pain with the engine in, so I would drop the engine and do both and refresh some other wear parts, including fitting the new intercooler. This would take at least a month working in my spare time and getting parts a couple at a time.
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May 9, 2014 22:58
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Wow that looks like an incredibly lovely looking mr2, are the us spec lights that bad that you needed to graft some massive ugly rear end hellas to the front? Also  is up with that crappy looking wiring in the frunk?If you have the 205 cooler your gonna need to do a bit of fuckery to get it to fit the smaller gen2 tb. I cant remember if I used the ST185 throttle sock and tb bracket when I had a gen2. Also I wouldnt bother using the 205 pump, unless your gonna rebuild it. My 205cc runs off a 12v marine pump which outflows the original one. You might as well drop the motor and do as much 'while i'm here' maintenance as possible. Or just find a gen3/4 rear clip instead of having to deal with the lovely flapper maf.
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May 10, 2014 00:15
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Yes its shocking how different people can have different tastes. The hellas are coming off as one of the little projects and the frunk wiring along with it. I think I'm going to drive it over the summer and worry about the clutch and timing belt again in the fall. Hopefully by then I will have my garage cleaned out and the floor sealed. I'm going to stick with the engine it has because A. Money and B. Money and a little bit of C. I'm not going for huge power. A budget paint job is also in the cards. I'm leaning towards a rustoleum job or flat army green.
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May 11, 2014 15:57
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That plate's pretty stupid.
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May 11, 2014 23:17
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kmcormick9 posted:and while not needed due to miles, the timing belt is 14 years old and probably could use replacement Please please tell me this isn't an interference engine. I mean, I've seen timing belts last 20+ years, but generally you don't want to push them past 5-7 years. That belt is likely dryrotted to poo poo by now and just waiting for you to sneeze..
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May 12, 2014 11:54
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some texas redneck posted:Please please tell me this isn't an interference engine. I mean, I've seen timing belts last 20+ years, but generally you don't want to push them past 5-7 years. That belt is likely dryrotted to poo poo by now and just waiting for you to sneeze.. 3S motors are non interference, but pistons have been known to say hello the valves when the timing belt has snapped at higher revs. I've had a friend snap the cambelt on a 3sge on a motorway cruise with no ill effects also. Op you arent planning to do trackdays on a 14 year old timing belt and a slipping clutch? I cant talk though I did a whole event with blown turbo seals and a 200 mile roundtrip back on a ceramic shafted ct20 
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May 12, 2014 16:14
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Yes it is non interference. I don't know what I'm going to do. I took the fog lights off and the associated wiring which I will save to wire in my electric water pump. I started to do the disassembly required to swap in the intercooler and at this point I figure it may be best to just continue dropping the engine. I've read a couple writeups on it and it really sounds worse than it is. The big challenges I currently see with this intercooler is the new fitment of the bypass valve and the water fittings interfering with the egr.
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May 12, 2014 20:46
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Rhyno posted:That plate's pretty stupid. What do your friends think about it?
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May 12, 2014 21:11
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Bucephalus posted:What do your friends think about it? Oh they'd probably think it's the funniest thing ever.
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May 12, 2014 21:15
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kmcormick9 posted:Yes it is non interference. I don't know what I'm going to do. The bpv isnt that hard to fit to the 205 cooler, iirc I used a silicone reducer on the cc. It worked but it didnt look very tidy. Now i've got a gen3 I just have an l-piece with a vta on the end of it.
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May 13, 2014 01:37
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smelly cabin filter posted:The bpv isnt that hard to fit to the 205 cooler, iirc I used a silicone reducer on the cc. It worked but it didnt look very tidy. Now i've got a gen3 I just have an l-piece with a vta on the end of it. Yeah I'm debating either cutting the bpv outlet off and somehow flush mounting it to the cooler itself or using a section of hose to mount it using the existing flange. After some thought and discussion with the wife I'm going to put off the major work until we can finish cleaning out the garage and get the floor sealed. I'll keep updating the thread as I take care of the little projects.
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May 13, 2014 20:03
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Update: The Hellas are off. The wiring is set aside for the water pump setup. The lights alone sold on CL within a day for almost what I paid for the kit. I started to pull apart the upper accessories to test fit the A2W intercooler and realize its going to need some modification. The water inlets on the IC will need to be shortened. I am also going to shorten the PCV tube on the valve cover and possibly add a catch can to reduce the oil in the intake. For now I have put it all back together and I'm going to drive it to work next week to shake the cobwebs out
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Jun 13, 2014 18:43
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Come back to your creepy neighbour thread bastard.
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Jun 19, 2014 13:30
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non update. I cleaned it up a little bit and have moved it in and out of the garage but still havent driven it.  Cleaned about an inch of dust off the engine and all the hoses  Towel removed and most of the trash cleared out showing what years of sitting in the sun can do. 
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Jun 29, 2014 17:09
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Small update. Not much progress on the car, but a lot of progress on the workspace. Finally got the garage cleaned out and the floor sealed.  Got a garage door opener and installed it.  MR2 in with a spot for the wife's Mini.  Notice the rejection sticker. Apparently the front tires are a little too bald.  
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Nov 12, 2014 00:06
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Wow. Half the posts in here are negative. Its poo poo like this why I shitcanned my threads. Rockon dude. Beater projects are the best projects. Your garage is tits too.
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Nov 12, 2014 00:12
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Seriously, that garage is loving rad, i'm jealous. Glad to see you're still working on this, and please never change that plate 
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Nov 12, 2014 01:18
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Is that the harbor freight tire changer? I thought it was o my for steel wheels for some reason? How do you like it? Love the garage, one day I'll epoxy coat my floors, who knows when though cuz I have too many parts!
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Nov 12, 2014 01:20
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Thanks for the compliments of the garage, guys. Its a little small and I wish it was insulated, but I'm sure guys working in NASCAR and F1 garages wish for more, too. At least its a garage, which is what I spent my entire life wishing for. Yes that is a HF tire changer. It definitely takes some practice to get the technique down, but people report swapping track tires on BBS wheels without scratching them. I, on the other hand am not that good, and definitely put some scratches in my wheels. I also bent the bar that came with it. I'm going to do some more work to idiot proof it, but for now I cut some protectors out of some cheap cutting boards.  No progress on the car today, but I got my pegboard mounted so I can start to clean up my workbench 
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Nov 13, 2014 23:13
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Both front tires now changed and on the car. I have a lead on some cheap 94+ wheels which will open up a huge selection of tires besides the chinese economy tires and r compounds that are the only thing available for the 14s. I also ordered a EGR block plate and TB inlet from ATS that will be cut down for the new intercooler. I have been trying to trace the battery drain and I finally got my wife to help me with the multimeter. My key off current draw is 270mA-way too high When I pull the dome light fuse it drops to 11mA Clearly that is my problem. The dome light has never worked as long as I have had this car, so while I would love to fix it, I have no problem completely disconnecting it. On to troubleshooting. I started by pulling each bulb, no drop. Next, I removed all the screws and disconnected the entire dome light unit. Still no drop. Now I need to find out what else is on that fuse and where all the wiring leads. Once I get this sorted, I can cut my battery budget dramatically.
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Dec 4, 2014 23:24
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kmcormick9 posted:I also ordered a EGR block plate and TB inlet from ATS that will be cut down for the new intercooler. Don't mean to threadjack too much but if you are an MR2 junkie, ATS is Mecca. Aaron and Co. are awesome to talk too and their shop is full of goodies.  
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Dec 5, 2014 06:19
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Well after some Craigslisting and a lot of driving I have scored 14 4' tubes worth of fluorescent light fixtures. 5 2 bulb and 1 4 bulb. For my 20x20 garage. Shits gonna be bright. I just need to figure out how to wire it all up. Is there anything that staggers the cut ons so I don't have 600 watts of lights surging on at once?
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Dec 7, 2014 22:29
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kmcormick9 posted:Well after some Craigslisting and a lot of driving I have scored 14 4' tubes worth of fluorescent light fixtures. 5 2 bulb and 1 4 bulb. For my 20x20 garage. Shits gonna be bright. I just need to figure out how to wire it all up. Is there anything that staggers the cut ons so I don't have 600 watts of lights surging on at once? Lighting "zones" and a 3 or 4 gang switch box? That's how I'd work it, at least.
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Dec 7, 2014 22:34
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With the holidays and a lot of other stuff going on, I havent had much time to work on this. With the front tires changed it "should" pass inspection, but I just havent bothered yet. Things are starting to wind down and I had time for a small project. I made some brackets from angle iron.  Then screwed them into the wall  Then mounted the first of my lights.  The great thing about the angle iron brackets is that I can also mount a shelf up there to get less used items up and out of the way.
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Jan 15, 2015 18:57
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:33 |
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I did a thing today
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Jan 24, 2015 02:56
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