Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
They are all the same - Johnson Controls.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs
That thing you want to 3d print is called a hubcentric ring and sets are $5 at discount tire. If they don't have your size in stock, they can usually order them.

For them to matter, you have to make sure the truck is hubcentric, not lugcentric, in which case you wouldn't need the hub rings.

MC Hawking
Apr 27, 2004

by VideoGames
Fun Shoe
Hi PB Crunch, I don't really AI much but I just wanted to say that I really enjoyed your old thread about therapeutically working out of your garage.. Glad to see you're still kicking around and working hard. :)

murphle
Mar 4, 2004

mafoose posted:

That thing you want to 3d print is called a hubcentric ring and sets are $5 at discount tire. If they don't have your size in stock, they can usually order them.

For them to matter, you have to make sure the truck is hubcentric, not lugcentric, in which case you wouldn't need the hub rings.

Old toyotas are lug-centric. 3-D printing hubcentric rings would be a considerable waste of time and money. Even if they are only a few bucks a pop. Tacomas are hub-centric.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PBCrunch posted:

In other news, I need a new battery for my Lexus. Are there any advantaged to getting the battery at Costco? I'd have to get my sister involved, since I don't have a Costco membership.

I'd say that makes it a bit of a disadvantage, then, since you'd need her to be around / still a member to exchange it out easily. I bought one for my Ranger when I was still the second member on another membership, and went to exchange it after I got my own membership. They still took care of me but it did take a bit of extra work on their side, and I had to get the old membership number for them to look up.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Sorry if I'm hijacking, but I'm gonna take a look at this on Thurs and don't know much about trucks other than keywords such as Toyota and 22RE. Anything in particular to look for? What do you guys think about pricing? Seller says there's no rust.

https://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5156663164.html

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Now that the truck stops and runs without overheating, it needs some tunes. Driving with no music is no fun.

I got the old missing face tape deck out of the dash. There is an Alpine amplifier under the seat, but I don't think it works. There is no wiring bringing amplifier output to the speakers.

Someone cut 6.5" speakers into the doors. I put a set of 4.0" speakers into the previously empty factory speaker locations. I'm going to put an old 4 channel amp under the seat to power both sets of speakersq. There is no chance of getting a subwoofer to fit anywhere in this truck, so getting good sound out of a two sets of speakers is really the only option.

My friend advised me to keep an eye out for factory 4.0" speaker enclosures from a similar vintage 4Runner for better sound.

The next thing I'm looking for is a lockable box for the bed so I have some lockable storage at the junkyard.

That truck looks super clean, much nicer than mine. It is probably worth what he is asking, particularly if the aircon works.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Aug 5, 2015

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

blk posted:

Sorry if I'm hijacking, but I'm gonna take a look at this on Thurs and don't know much about trucks other than keywords such as Toyota and 22RE. Anything in particular to look for? What do you guys think about pricing? Seller says there's no rust.

https://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5156663164.html

That's a fine looking truck right there. Shame about it being in such good condition though, I'd feel bad beating on it :v:

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
My neighbor hooked me up with a battery for my Lexus for $60.

I wanted a set of front coil springs from a ZJ Orvis Edition with Upcountry suspension from the junkyard, but the truck was supported by the suspension. My friend Drew helped me move one of the gantry cranes in the junkyard into position and then jockey the springs out of the junk truck. These coils will give me 1-1.5 inches of lift in the front to go along with a to be determined amount of lift from a set of S-10 leafs going into a Bastard Pack (TM) in the rear suspension.

At the last check-in, the Toyota had working brakes and a leak-free cooling system. It had no radio. There was an ancient Alpine amp under the seat, but it did not work. There were some rotted out Alpine speakers cut into the doors, but no speakers in the factory locations in the lower dash.

I put the radio from my Integra into the dash, along with a Bluetooth audio receiver wired into the aux input, plus an iPod cable in the glovebox.



I installed a set of inexpensive, but decent speakers in the factory locations, powered by the rear outputs of the head unit's built-in amplifier. The head unit's selectable high pass filter is enabled to avoid sending anything like bass through these cute little guys.



There wasn't much room in the doors for a decent set of speakers, so I used some one inch spacers to make room. They stick out a good bit from the doors, but that is okay.



The door speakers are powered by the front channels of a four channel amp I had kicking around. I had to cut off the holder for the factory jack, but I think I can put something together to hold the jack under the hood. I've also been looking around for a used tool box for the bed.



The rear channels are bridged to power a subwoofer.



I am 6'4" and NOT THIN, so how did a subwoofer get into this truck? The box did not fit in the truck with the seat all the way back, so my friend James cut the corner of the box off, then cut some wood to re-seal the box. A little bit of fiberglass work later, and I have a little bit of thump in my minitruck.

Every time I leave the house I get this sinking feeling that I left the garage door open. I spent some time today monkeying around with a Raspberry Pi. I set up a webcam (PS3 Eye Toy camera) and a two channel relay so I can log in to view the inside of the garage in real-ish time, toggle the lights, and open and close the door remotely. I was pretty pleased with myself. I added the toggle for the lights because the status of the door is impossible to determine at night.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Aug 10, 2015

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I need to do a little bitching about Rockauto. In June, I decided to replace the struts in my wife's 1999 Toyota Avalon. I've bought a LOT of parts from Rockauto (the parts for the "flip" cars in my old thread were obtained almost exclusively through Rockauto), and the only time I've had a premature failure (six months on an upper control arm) they allowed me to return the product and buy the same part from a different manufacturer. Based on this previoud experience, I rolled the dice and purchased a set of "Sensen" brand struts and mounts for the car, figuring that if they were shelled in three months, I could return them and spend the extra money on KYBs. All the Sensen parts had lifetime warranty. I also bought some new sway bar links from Mevotech, a Rockauto brand I have bought and used successfully in the past.

My neighbor took the new parts to his shop and used a wall mounted strut compressor to swap the old springs and isolators (still in good shape) onto the new struts and mounts. I put the rebuilt strut assemblies on the car, and the suspension was noisier than before the work within a couple of days. Based on previous positive experience with Rockauto's customer service, I decided i would try replacing just the strut mounts with better quality parts. That didn't solve anything; the noise was in the struts. I called today to try to return the junk parts, and they told me to fly a kite. It had been over 30 days (since I had tried to solve the problem by changing as few parts as possible), so the only option is to pay both ways to ship the struts back to Sensen for a set of like replacements. I'm not really willing to do that to get another set of struts that can't stay quiet for two days.

I took a gamble on these parts based on two factors: previous good experience dealing with bad parts with Rockauto, and the little heart symbol next to the part on their website, indicating popularity.

I have a complete set of struts and mounts that does me no good, and my wallet is lighter. I will never buy anything from Rockauto again. This promise is a lot easier to keep now that Amazon is selling parts with Prime shipping. I ordered a new set of KYBs struts for the car (I already replaced the Sensen mounts with Monroe), and they will be arriving soon. Hopefully that is the end of suspension noise in my wife's Avalon. I'm not sure if I should bother with getting the used junk swapped for new junk or not. I could sell the brand new junk parts on ebay or craigslist, but that would be mean to the buyer.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I'm kinda shocked they told you to pound sand.

But amazon is the way to go anymore.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.
Rock auto is still a pretty good place to get part numbers before you search amazon. :3:

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Sandbagger SA posted:

Rock auto is still a pretty good place to get part numbers before you search amazon. :3:
Yeah. Amazon's parts selection is pretty disorganized. I plan to use Rockauto's website quite a bit, I just won't buy anything there.

I also use coupon codes at Advance Auto to get a lot of stuff anymore. I can get 35% off the normal prices for stuff by splitting up my orders just the right way. This usually gets pretty close to the price on Amazon. Plus if the part doesn't work out, I can return it to the store instead of shipping it somewhere.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

PBCrunch posted:


I also use coupon codes at Advance Auto to get a lot of stuff anymore. I can get 35% off the normal prices for stuff by splitting up my orders just the right way. This usually gets pretty close to the price on Amazon. Plus if the part doesn't work out, I can return it to the store instead of shipping it somewhere.
I keep telling people about this, their policy is ridiculous. I needed shocks for my truck, four separate orders with four of the save coupon code, saved me over $120, and make them cheaper than Amazon or rockauto, plus no waiting

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I did some stuff, but did not take any pictures yet.

While replacing the struts in my wife's 1999 Toyota Avalon I decided to get to the bottom of the lovely sounding stereo. The car has the uplevel JBL stereo, but age has not treated it well. The spider was ripped out of the factory sub and the surrounds were shot on all four door speakers. I got some replacement 4.0 inch speakers for the factory speaker enclosures in the doors, and my friend James built an absolutely amazing custom sealed box that fits into the little side pocket on the passenger side of the trunk, taking up almost no usable trunk space. The box has a 10" DVC woofer powered by a 350W RMS tiny class D amp I had sitting in the garage.

After driving the Avalon home, I decided that I had to put something in my Jeep. I took the four channel amp, 600W class D sub amp, and 12" woofer in a ported box (~2cf net internal volume, so kinda big) from my Integra and chucked it into my Jeep. The Jeep already had some pretty decent 5.25" speakers in the factory locations. It sounds awesome, I just need to figure out some way to cover up the subwoofer cabinet.

I took a close look at the oil change sticker on the Toyota pickup. The truck has 217,700 miles. It said the oil was last changed at 215,300 miles... in 2008! I changed the oil and filter. While I was under it I looked for the source of a significant gear oil leak. My original thought was the output shaft seal, but inspection revealed a soaking wet speed sensor. I pulled the sensor, and the o-ring was completely shot. It took a lot of searching to get a proper fitting replacement o-ring, but I got it put back together.

I had drained the transmission before I started, so I needed to fill it back up. I dumped the contents of one gallon bottle of 80W-90 gear oil into a pressurized contraption I made out of a garden sprayer bottle. I put the end of the hose into what I am still convinced is the fill plug on the transmission, and let her rip. I kept waiting for fluid to come gurgling back out of the fill hole, but it never did. The whole gallon of gear oil went into the transmission. I looked online, and the capacity of the transmission is ~2.5 quarts, so I'm not sure what happened here. What happens if I just drive the truck with an extra 1.5 quarts of gear oil in the transmission?

I got a new ebay steering wheel for the truck to make it easier to get in and out of the thing. I went cheap because I think I may have to do some experimentation with wheel diameter to find a good blend of small size and steering effort (no power steering).

ADINSX
Sep 9, 2003

Wanna run with my crew huh? Rule cyberspace and crunch numbers like I do?

Hey small truck buddy



A toyota was what I really wanted but people around here were asking 4000-5000 dollars for 22re toyota trucks with over 200k miles, so 500 dollars sounds like a steal.

ADINSX fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Aug 23, 2015

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
A cool thing about those Isuzus is that they all use GM 6 bolt pattern for the wheels. You can pick pretty much any recent GM truck wheel and use it. My friend had one with a set of giant (18 or 19") steelies from a Nissan Titan.

LeeMajors
Jan 20, 2005

I've gotta stop fantasizing about Lee Majors...
Ah, one more!


ADINSX posted:

Hey small truck buddy



A toyota was what I really wanted but people around here were asking 4000-5000 dollars for 22re toyota trucks with over 200k miles, so 500 dollars sounds like a steal.

My dad had this truck and silver and I drove it for 40k mi after my Camry died. Great little truck. :3: I have a huge softspot for it. Reliable, and it had a true truck clutch in it...unlike my most recent Taco.

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs

PBCrunch posted:

A cool thing about those Isuzus is that they all use GM 6 bolt pattern for the wheels. You can pick pretty much any recent GM truck wheel and use it. My friend had one with a set of giant (18 or 19") steelies from a Nissan Titan.

Yours does too if it's 4wd.

A trans that over filled will probably puke it out of the breather. I would find the real fill plug and open it, and let it drain to the right level.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

ADINSX posted:

Hey small truck buddy



A toyota was what I really wanted but people around here were asking 4000-5000 dollars for 22re toyota trucks with over 200k miles, so 500 dollars sounds like a steal.

I had one a couple years ago, but 4wd. It had 30 inch tires on it and was unstoppable by anything other than rust. Eventually the holes in the frame and a failed fuel pump forced me to scrap it. A shame too, because the body was in great condition and it only had 85k miles. Some day I will find a rust free 22re Toyota or Nissan d21, disassemble it down to the bolt, rust proof everything as much as possible, then reassemble. I love everything about these old trucks (except their fuel mileage and crashworthiness).

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

mafoose posted:

Yours does too if it's 4wd.

A trans that over filled will probably puke it out of the breather. I would find the real fill plug and open it, and let it drain to the right level.

My truck is 2wd.

I took the truck to the pay and spray and sprayed the thick grease/dirt cake that was all over the transmission. I had to leave for Kansas City for a concert, so I didn't have any time to look for the correct fill plug.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
If you run a transmission overfull it will usually aerate the fluid, spit it out the vent, and/or burn up bearings (because aerated oil doesn't lubricate very well) and blow out seals. Don't do that.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I replaced the Chinese junk struts and mounts in my wife's Avalon with KYB parts. There is still a little noise; my neighbor believes the noise is from the also pretty new Rockauto sway bar links. gently caress. My wife had foot surgery three weeks ago, so she hasn't been driving much lately, anyway.

The stereo in my wife's Avalon turned out so nice that it motivated me to install the stereo from the Integra I will be selling soon in my Jeep.

After I cleaned the gunk off the truck's transmission, it was easy enough to spot the fill hole. I drove the truck a little, removed the actual fill plug, and let the excess fluid drain out.

I replaced the steering wheel with a little cheapo toy from ebay. The adapter works fine, but the wheel is a little too small. It makes ingress/egress easier, but the steering effort when making tight turns at low speeds is just too high.

I washed the truck and hit it with some cleaner wax. The bed is now the same shade of black as the cab. The truck got dirty again before I took these pictures.

I have done some things. Some of you will not agree with the choices I have made, but that is OK because I am real and you are internet people.













Those are 18" wheels from a Dodge Charger R/T. The OD on the tires is a very close match to the OD of the stock tires.

The rear is lowered 2" via blocks (leaf under axle). The back wheels are mounted on 1" spacers. Wheel bearings be damned!

The front is lowered about the same via torsion bar magic. The lowering was performed with me in the driver's seat, so it is completely even when in motion. The new wheels wouldn't fit over the wheel bearing dust cover, so I cut some material from the inside of the center cap, sealed the center cap with some silicone, and removed the dust cover from the wheel bearing. Again, wheel bearings be damned.

The tool box is from craigslist. It was super cheap, but didn't come with locks. Getting new keys has proven impossible. Since these pictures were taken, I have removed the locks, covered the empty lock barrels with hasps, and put on padlocks. It isn't perfect security, but if someone wants my tow straps and bottle jack that bad, I guess they can have them.

I'm undecided on the graphics. Part of me wants to remove them. The other part of me wants to paint the wheels the same 90s aqua teal that is in the graphics and really embrace the 90s cheese.

The side mirrors really suck. They are mounted on ball and socket joints, and they move every time I shut the doors. I am considering swapping to 4Runner mirrors that mount to the sail instead of to the doors. This gets me a better mirror, but leaves holes in the door.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Sep 13, 2015

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Honestly, not bad. The only thing jumping out as odd to me is in the second to last pic it seems like it has negative rake / it's dragging the rear end along instead of being level.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

IOwnCalculus posted:

Honestly, not bad. The only thing jumping out as odd to me is in the second to last pic it seems like it has negative rake / it's dragging the rear end along instead of being level.

Agreed. Check into just spacing the rear a bit to even it out. I don't mind the wheels, which is surprising (I'm not normally a fan of old and new mixed like that). Definitely keep the graphics.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I put a tiny steering wheel in the Toyota. I like the wheel, it makes ingress/egress easier, but the tiny diameter makes low speed maneuvers even more difficult.

The rear view mirrors are terrible. I made an attempt at correcting this problem with a Wink mirror. The new mirror provides a good view of the rear of the vehicle, but it vibrates. I can live with it, but I think I am still going to put 4Runner sail panel mirrors on the truck. The brackets I made are ugly as gently caress. Deal with it.


Something happened to my Jeep. The trouble started when the suspension started sagging in the back.

I got it over to my friend's shop, and a while later, things had gotten a lot worse!


The truck made some improvement:




The real story is that the rear was sagging. I got a set of front coil springs from a ZJ V8 with the Up Country suspension package and set of rear leaf springs from an S-10. We put the ZJ front springs in the front. We removed all of the XJ factory leaves except the main leaf, then added two leaves from the S-10 pack into the XJ pack and put everything back together. I chose this route because I did not want to remove the rear main leaves. XJ rear springs are notoriously difficult to remove. I wanted a conservative lift because I did not want to buy new tires, brake lines, or shocks.

The result was about 1.5" lift in the front and about 3" in the rear, which put things just about level. The rear is down about 1/2 an inch. I have not decided whether to correct this with a small lift block, new lift shackles, or to ignore it.

The truck rides alot better, and the tires no longer rub when hitting bumps when loaded. I am very happy with the results given the relatively low amount of input dollars.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Sep 18, 2015

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Good call building a new leaf pack on the car.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I want an XJ so bad :( Yours is exactly the one I want too.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Well, you probably don't want this one, since it is rusty as gently caress and has 300k miles on it.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

PBCrunch posted:

I replaced the Chinese junk struts and mounts in my wife's Avalon with KYB parts. There is still a little noise; my neighbor believes the noise is from the also pretty new Rockauto sway bar links. gently caress. My wife had foot surgery three weeks ago, so she hasn't been driving much lately, anyway.

The stereo in my wife's Avalon turned out so nice that it motivated me to install the stereo from the Integra I will be selling soon in my Jeep.

After I cleaned the gunk off the truck's transmission, it was easy enough to spot the fill hole. I drove the truck a little, removed the actual fill plug, and let the excess fluid drain out.

I replaced the steering wheel with a little cheapo toy from ebay. The adapter works fine, but the wheel is a little too small. It makes ingress/egress easier, but the steering effort when making tight turns at low speeds is just too high.

I washed the truck and hit it with some cleaner wax. The bed is now the same shade of black as the cab. The truck got dirty again before I took these pictures.

I have done some things. Some of you will not agree with the choices I have made, but that is OK because I am real and you are internet people.













Those are 18" wheels from a Dodge Charger R/T. The OD on the tires is a very close match to the OD of the stock tires.

The rear is lowered 2" via blocks (leaf under axle). The back wheels are mounted on 1" spacers. Wheel bearings be damned!

The front is lowered about the same via torsion bar magic. The lowering was performed with me in the driver's seat, so it is completely even when in motion. The new wheels wouldn't fit over the wheel bearing dust cover, so I cut some material from the inside of the center cap, sealed the center cap with some silicone, and removed the dust cover from the wheel bearing. Again, wheel bearings be damned.

The tool box is from craigslist. It was super cheap, but didn't come with locks. Getting new keys has proven impossible. Since these pictures were taken, I have removed the locks, covered the empty lock barrels with hasps, and put on padlocks. It isn't perfect security, but if someone wants my tow straps and bottle jack that bad, I guess they can have them.

I'm undecided on the graphics. Part of me wants to remove them. The other part of me wants to paint the wheels the same 90s aqua teal that is in the graphics and really embrace the 90s cheese.

The side mirrors really suck. They are mounted on ball and socket joints, and they move every time I shut the doors. I am considering swapping to 4Runner mirrors that mount to the sail instead of to the doors. This gets me a better mirror, but leaves holes in the door.

Honestly looks really good

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica
Did somebody say Toyota Pickup?



Here's mine, 1988, 22R, 2wd, bitchload of KMs, $350. That bed is gone as is everything below the frame. She got back-burnered in favour of the FJ45 but I am totally gonna put the $10k worth of parts I've got sitting in boxes on her one of these days...

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I'm helping my wife's sister sell her 2005 Honda Civic. Step one in preparing a car for sale: polishing the headlights.

Here is a daylight shot of one headlight:


Left before:


Left after:


Right before:


Right after:


We have been unable to turn up any documentation of a timing belt change they know they paid for, so it is getting a new timing belt/tensioner.water pump since the parts are cheap, the job is easy, and it gives prospective buyers peace of mind. I gave the rest of the car a good cleaning, so it should be up for sale soon.

I changed the same parts in my Integra in order to prepare it for sale. I need to fix the delaminated trim on the door cards and fix the super squeaky rear suspension (starting with removing the Whiteline sway bar), and get it plated before it is ready to sell.

  • Locked thread