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Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 2WD 3.0L with Flex Fuel which makes a pinging sound at roughly 3500 rpm. Using a OBDII reader, I have seen P300, P304, P305, P306. The vehicle favors P304. According to the same reader both the short term and long term fuel rail adjustments are negative for bank 2, whereas they are positive for bank 1.

P300 - Random Misfire
P304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire
P305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
P306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire

I've tried both fuel injector cleaner and Cheveron with Techron gasoline, but this didn't improve it.

I have tried replacing the spark plugs (I found that they were worn out), the spark plug wires, and the ignition coil. This did not seem to have any major improvement.

I brought the vehicle to Pep Boys the have the fuel system cleaned. This didn't seem to help.

I read online that the exhaust/intake seats on this particular model and engine combo often dislodge themselves. I took off the heads and found that they were not sealing. I replaced the heads as a result, to no avail. While I was replacing the heads, I pulled out the camshaft synchronizer. In the process of reassembly, I bought a timing tool and used to to reinstall the synchronizer.

After driving it with the OBDII reader, I noticed that the fuel adjustments for bank 2 were negative and tested the fuel pressure, and saw nearly 60psi. In hopes to see that it was one of the fuel injectors, I moved injector 4, replacing it with injector 1. The same issue occurred. I then read online that the O2 sensors are responsible for determining the fuel adjustments. I replaced both upstream O2 sensors as a result. I saw no improvement.

After reading online a description that almost exactly matched the issue I was seeing, I replaced the camshaft syncronizer, to no avail.

I have also checked for vacuum leaks, but have found nothing. At this point, I am at a loss.

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BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I can't remember how Ford does their cylinder numbering, but I would take a bet that your O2 sensor on the passenger Drivers side has crapped itself.

Oh wait you did change the o2 sensors, maybe double check the wiring? Thats the only thing I can think that would cause the engine to throw just that side. Barring that the wiring checks out, run a compression test, and see what kind of numbers you are getting.

BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jul 27, 2015

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Oh wait you did change the o2 sensors, maybe double check the wiring? Thats the only thing I can think that would cause the engine to throw just that side. Barring that the wiring checks out, run a compression test, and see what kind of numbers you are getting.

I ran a compression test. Here are the numbers.

Cylinder 1: 170
Cylinder 2: 170
Cylinder 3: 160
Cylinder 4: 170
Cylinder 5: 170
Cylinder 6: 172

spookykid
Apr 28, 2006
Try your downstream after hitting your cat a couple times with a sledge and then running the engine for 5-10 min. And then try your cam position sensors.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
Well we have had other Ford trucks making GBS threads the ECU, I don't think Rangers poses some overly complicated ECU, maybe try that? I'd say sensors as well, but its only one side that's throwing codes.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски
if your missing on most of your cylinders on one bank, id be checking for a vacuum leak. Have you checked your fuel trims? Run your car and go hog wild with carb cleaner and see if you can make the engine surge.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Jul 29, 2015

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
I think you have changed every part you could change. I would start checking the wiring harness. Might be a broken wire somewhere.

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

Dannywilson posted:

Try your downstream after hitting your cat a couple times with a sledge and then running the engine for 5-10 min. And then try your cam position sensors.

It appears as if on this particular model of Ranger only has a single downstream O2 sensor. The left and right bank exhaust combine into a single system just before two catalytic converters. The downstream O2 sensor is between the two catalytic converters. Since it is only one bank that is problematic, does it still make sense to replace the downstream O2 sensor?

I hit the cats with sledge, but it didn't seem to improve anything.

I had already replaced the camshaft position sensor/synchronizer assembly, to no avail.

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Well we have had other Ford trucks making GBS threads the ECU, I don't think Rangers poses some overly complicated ECU, maybe try that? I'd say sensors as well, but its only one side that's throwing codes.

Is the ECU something that can be replaced? I see that AutoZone sells them. Will replacing it give me any adverse effects?

Preoptopus posted:

if your missing on most of your cylinders on one bank, id be checking for a vacuum leak. Have you checked your fuel trims? Run your car and go hog wild with carb cleaner and see if you can make the engine surge.

I checked for a vacuum leak, but I didn't find one. For reference, here is a snapshot of the fuel trims at idle:

STFT B1 (%): 0.0
LTFT B1 (%): -1.6
STFT B2 (%): -3.9
LTFT B2 (%): -7.0

rdb posted:

I think you have changed every part you could change. I would start checking the wiring harness. Might be a broken wire somewhere.

I didn't see a broken wire anywhere. Is there anything that could give me a definitive answer as far as the wiring is concerned?

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
A continuity test is what would tell you for broken wire.

I am not sure the ecu route on how in depth the security system and integration is, but its a ranger, it can't be that bad. I'd make that a very last resort option.

I bet you have a broken wire some where.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
To check the wiring harness you need a multimeter and a wiring diagram. Google or a Haynes manual might be good for the diagram. I like to start at the ECM connector and check for shorts to ground and shorts from wire to wire. If that turns up nothing, grab a friend start checking every wire related to that side of the engine for continuity. It's a real pain in the rear end.

Sheeple
Nov 1, 2011
What is your downstream o2 sensor reading at idle and at 3500 rpm?

Your short terms are being driven lean and building into long, so the vehicle is seeing excess fuel. What do the fuel trims read at 3500rpm?

Also I'm not sure if you can read it but what does the FF_INF PID read? (This may or may not exist for 08, not sure if an aftermarket scan tool will pick it up.)

Sheeple fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jul 31, 2015

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

BrokenKnucklez posted:

A continuity test is what would tell you for broken wire.

I am not sure the ecu route on how in depth the security system and integration is, but its a ranger, it can't be that bad. I'd make that a very last resort option.

I bet you have a broken wire some where.

I still haven't gotten to this. I'm hoping to be able to do try this tomorrow.

rdb posted:

To check the wiring harness you need a multimeter and a wiring diagram. Google or a Haynes manual might be good for the diagram. I like to start at the ECM connector and check for shorts to ground and shorts from wire to wire. If that turns up nothing, grab a friend start checking every wire related to that side of the engine for continuity. It's a real pain in the rear end.

Thank you for the information.

Sheeple posted:

What is your downstream o2 sensor reading at idle and at 3500 rpm?

Your short terms are being driven lean and building into long, so the vehicle is seeing excess fuel. What do the fuel trims read at 3500rpm?

Also I'm not sure if you can read it but what does the FF_INF PID read? (This may or may not exist for 08, not sure if an aftermarket scan tool will pick it up.)

Here is the output of the scan tool:

At Idle:

ECT (F): 104.0
STFT B1 (%): -4.7
LTFT B1 (%): 7.8
STFT B2 (%): 3.1
LTFT B2 (%): -7.8
Eng RPM: 969
Veh Speed (mph): 0
O2S B1 S1 (V): 0.685
STFT B1 S1 (%): -7.0
O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.000
STFT B1 S2 (%): 99.2
O2S B2 S1 (V): 0.735
STFT B2 S1 (%): 2.3

At Pinging RPM:

ECT (F): 159.8
STFT B1 (%): 15.6
LTFT B1 (%): 21.1
STFT B2 (%): -18.0
LTFT B2 (%): -18.0
Eng RPM: 2945
Veh Speed (mph): 38
O2S B1 S1 (V): 0.725
STFT B1 S1 (%): 19.5
O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.850
STFT B1 S2 (%): 99.2
O2S B2 S1 (V): 0.030
STFT B2 S1 (%): -16.4

My OBDII reader did not have a reading of FF_INF PID.

A mechanic buddy recommended changing the fuel filter. After doing so, I have seen no major difference. Fuel pressure at the fuel rail is 56psi both under load and at idle. The maintenance manual indicates that the fuel pressure should be between 60-65 psi.

Sheeple
Nov 1, 2011
Those are some crazy numbers. Looks like you were possibly in open loop for the idle readings (downstream o2 B1 S2 is reading 0 volts) so I wouldn't trust them but the second set of readings are good.

Do the upstream o2s switch as you're watching them or are they constant?

The lower fuel pressure would be more of a concern if both banks were having the same issues but it could be something worth investigating. It might also be worth replacing the downstream o2 sensor as well just to rule it out as the downstream sensor is what controls your fuel trims.

I've never seen one bank be driven so rich (bank 1 at 15-20%) and the other being driven so lean (bank 2 at -18% and -18%) before.

Sheeple fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Aug 2, 2015

StimpyBoy
Nov 27, 2002
I am the ones who are the balllickers.
Grimey Drawer

Sheeple posted:

I've never seen one bank be driven so rich (bank 1 at 15-20%) and the other being driven so lean (bank 2 at -18% and -18%) before.

I've seen that once in a ScannerDanner video where a shop had done an engine swap and had swapped the O2 sensor connectors into the wrong banks. Assuming this vehicle hasn't had major work on it, that's obviously not likely here.

If that reader can monitor O2 voltages as a graph, I'd recommend doing some snap throttle tests and such and make sure the O2 sensors are switching/behaving properly. Then vacuum leaks, ignition system problems, dirty MAF, etc which could affect fuel trims.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Temps are too low in both idle and drive cycle for lambda usage. Get er' up to temp and report back.


Other things I can think of, is there any exhaust leaks or obstructions? Including your EGR system.
also throw in your MAF reading if you could.

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

Sheeple posted:

Those are some crazy numbers. Looks like you were possibly in open loop for the idle readings (downstream o2 B1 S2 is reading 0 volts) so I wouldn't trust them but the second set of readings are good.

It seems to read 0 volts until the engine warms up.

Sheeple posted:

The lower fuel pressure would be more of a concern if both banks were having the same issues but it could be something worth investigating. It might also be worth replacing the downstream o2 sensor as well just to rule it out as the downstream sensor is what controls your fuel trims.

In the case of this vehicle, it has its fuel pickup on the #1 bank and then has 2 cross-over hoses which are responsible for bringing fuel to the #2 bank. If it was seeing low fuel pressure, could it make sense that #1 is fine because it sees the fuel first? Could this cause bank 2 to run lean? I'm currently leaning towards fuel because I replaced the fuel filter and saw an improvement. It is still really not functional, but it has improved.

StimpyBoy posted:

I've seen that once in a ScannerDanner video where a shop had done an engine swap and had swapped the O2 sensor connectors into the wrong banks. Assuming this vehicle hasn't had major work on it, that's obviously not likely here.

If that reader can monitor O2 voltages as a graph, I'd recommend doing some snap throttle tests and such and make sure the O2 sensors are switching/behaving properly. Then vacuum leaks, ignition system problems, dirty MAF, etc which could affect fuel trims.

I've looked for vacuum leaks, and wasn't able to find anything. I've cleaned the MAF, but it didn't seem to have an effect. Could cleaning the throttle body help?

cursedshitbox posted:

Temps are too low in both idle and drive cycle for lambda usage. Get er' up to temp and report back.


Other things I can think of, is there any exhaust leaks or obstructions? Including your EGR system.
also throw in your MAF reading if you could.

At idle:
Fuel Sys 1: CL
Fuel Sys 2: NA
Calc Load(%): 32.2
ECT( F): 185.0
STFT B1(%): -2.3
LTFT B1(%): 0.0
STFT B2(%): -7.0
LTFT B2(%): 0.0
Eng RPM: 689
Veh Speed(mph): 0
Spark Adv( ): 18
IAT( F): 89.6
MAF(lb/min): 0.7
TPS(%): 17.6
O2S B1 S1(V): 0.160
STFT B1 S1(%): 0.0
O2S B1 S2(V): 0.855
STFT B1 S2(%): 99.2
O2S B2 S1(V): 0.075

Under Load:
Fuel Sys 1: CL
Fuel Sys 2: NA
Calc Load(%): 99.2
ECT( F): 177.6
STFT B1(%): 28.9
LTFT B1(%): 0.0
STFT B2(%): -28.9
LTFT B2(%): 0.0
Eng RPM: 3526
Veh Speed(mph): 38
Spark Adv( ): 21.5
IAT( F): 91.4
MAF(lb/min): 7.9
TPS(%): 60.8
O2S B1 S1(V): 0.100
STFT B1 S1(%): 41.4
O2S B1 S2(V): 0.860
STFT B1 S2(%): 99.2
O2S B2 S1(V): 0.710

I also checked the fuel pressure again. I am seeing 56 psi at the rail. According to my manual, it's supposed to be 60 to 65 psi. Is this a significant difference? Per the recommendation of my mechanic friend, I replaced the fuel pressure dampener on the fuel rail, in hopes of increasing the pressure, but the pressure remained the same.

I also checked the resistance of all of the fuel injectors. They were all 12.1 to 12.2 ohms. According to the manual, they should be within a range of 12 to 16 ohms.

Anything is Fine fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Aug 8, 2015

Sheeple
Nov 1, 2011

Sheeple posted:

It might also be worth replacing the downstream o2 sensor as well just to rule it out as the downstream sensor is what controls your fuel trims.

I don't know why I wrote this.

What is your fuel pressure under load?

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

Sheeple posted:

What is your fuel pressure under load?

It stays constant. It remains at about 56 psi.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

I don't have too much useful stuff to add, but fuel pumps like to fail on those and provide weird symptoms along the way.

(Tip if you end up doing a fuel pump: skip the lovely plastic quick-connect release tools, buy the aluminum ones from harbor freight. It will save much wondering if you're doing it right)

Unsane
Jul 16, 2003

I'd look into the fuel rail. its a returnless fuel system that dead ends in the bank 2 rail. if there is any rust or other poo poo in the fuel system it will end up floating around in there. is the p0306 on acceleration, p0304 on decel? I'd pull the rail and clean it out real well, maybe swap injectors side to side. I'm leaning towards a fuel issue though.

spookykid
Apr 28, 2006
Yeah def look at that fuel rail. If you're seeing those PSI numbers, along with STFT numbers above 25% it's def the fuel rail not getting the gas where the ECU thinks it needs it.

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

Unsane posted:

I'd look into the fuel rail. its a returnless fuel system that dead ends in the bank 2 rail. if there is any rust or other poo poo in the fuel system it will end up floating around in there. is the p0306 on acceleration, p0304 on decel? I'd pull the rail and clean it out real well, maybe swap injectors side to side. I'm leaning towards a fuel issue though.

Dannywilson posted:

Yeah def look at that fuel rail. If you're seeing those PSI numbers, along with STFT numbers above 25% it's def the fuel rail not getting the gas where the ECU thinks it needs it.

We looked at/cleaned out the fuel rail. It looks fine. The P304-P306 all happen on acceleration under a load. P304 is just the most common. We also tried moving some of the injectors around to see if we could get it to move, with no luck.

We also ended up replacing the fuel pump. Fuel pressure changed from 56psi to 58psi.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
I'm wondering if the fuel trims are a red herring. The Vulcan's ignition system can do some strange poo poo when the coil pack starts to go. If you have the right tools maybe check the coil pack to eliminate it as a problem:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-coil-pack-1

Anything is Fine
Jul 11, 2012

8ender posted:

I'm wondering if the fuel trims are a red herring. The Vulcan's ignition system can do some strange poo poo when the coil pack starts to go. If you have the right tools maybe check the coil pack to eliminate it as a problem:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-coil-pack-1

It did turn out the fuel trims were a red herring.

I ended up taking the truck to the Ford dealer in hopes that they could fix it. They replaced the MAF, but that didn't correct the problem. They then told me that they thought one of the catalytic converters may be plugged.

Dannywilson posted:

Try your downstream after hitting your cat a couple times with a sledge and then running the engine for 5-10 min. And then try your cam position sensors.

It turns out that the truck has three other cats that I wasn't aware about. Before the other two cats, there is a Y-pipe. The driver's side of the Y-pipe has two cats, while the passenger side had a single cat. I ran water down both sides of the Y-pipe. When running water down the passenger side, the water flowed freely. When running water down the driver's side, the water was completely stopped. I replaced the Y-pipe, and now the truck runs great.

Thank you to everyone for all the help. :woop:

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spookykid
Apr 28, 2006
Called it. Glad you have your truck back. The fuel trims weren't a red herring, if one bank looks clean in a comparison between the downstream sensor and the upstream sensor, it will try to compensate on the other bank for what it views as a massive imbalance.

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