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Mine is a Bosch model speed sensor and it takes +12v, Signal, and GND. Signal is square wave varried by speed.
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May 31, 2016 16:53
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CommieGIR posted:Mine is a Bosch model speed sensor and it takes +12v, Signal, and GND. Signal is square wave varried by speed. That's what I was expecting from mine. I was under the impression I should get around 4000 pulses per mile. Unless my lovely cheap digital multimeter is just too cheap and lovely to register it properly? - I will try bench testing it again.
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May 31, 2016 17:06
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Tomarse posted:That's what I was expecting from mine. I was under the impression I should get around 4000 pulses per mile. Unless my lovely cheap digital multimeter is just too cheap and lovely to register it properly? - I will try bench testing it again. I'm betting it's the multimeter. You really need an Oscilloscope to see it at speed.
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May 31, 2016 17:15
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2 things could be happening here: 1) It's an open collector hall sensor, which means that it outputs a ground and floating signal. These are very common and you have to use a pullup resistor with them. 2) A multimeter won't register the voltage properly unless it can do frequency. I'd guess that it could be option 1...
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Jun 3, 2016 04:06
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noisymime posted:2 things could be happening here: I know I had to use a pull up resistor on my distributor's hall sensor
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Jun 3, 2016 13:51
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noisymime posted:2 things could be happening here: Saw your Hackaday.io page! Congrats! Anybody know what pin the DB-37 on Megasquirt1 V3 you use for MAF signal? They show the internal wiring, but no indication which wire is used for the Signal input. noisymime? Any possibility of adding MAF to Speeduino?
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Jun 7, 2016 02:51
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CommieGIR posted:noisymime? Any possibility of adding MAF to Speeduino?
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Jun 14, 2016 01:39
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Hmmm. This may be a weird question, but how hard is it to make Tunerstudio talk to different maps than normal? I suppose I should quantify that. My goal is to make a rotary specific ignition controller forked off the Speeduino code - class rules I'm building a car for require carburetors, but ignition is free. So I want to get rotary ignition split working (which I know is in there for Megasquirts) for COP, but also closed loop spark flat foot shift. See, on some production ECUs there's a trans speed input and a lookup table to relate that and engine RPM to figure out what gear you're in - so you have some conditionals (WOT, clutch switch, etc) to figure out when the driver is upshifting and then spark cut until things are at the right RPM for the next gear. And it would be nice to have some of the tuning variables from that accessible easily. I'm not that averse to just making my own system for tuning things (probably labview because I'm lazy and spark-only will be a lot easier to fine tune than normal MS installs) but it might be nice not reinventing every wheel at once.
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Jun 15, 2016 20:47
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Simple Microsquirt question: I have a suzuki bandit 1200 with a very basic MS setup (installed and dynod by the PO who I have no contact with). It has a quadspark running the factory wasted spark coils, hayabusa ITB's with banked pairs of injectors and no MAF/MAP or o2 sensor. It also has an open header. When I first got it, I ran it briefly and it seemed to run very well. Soon after I removed the battery and stuck it on a charger for a while. When I put the battery back in, like an idiot I only hooked up the large array of MS related earths to the earth terminal and not the main earth strap going to the frame. Naturally it didn't crank or start after a few attempts, at which point I had to go do something else. About a week later I checked more closely, realised my gently caress-up and hooked everything up correctly. It now runs like a massive misfiring sack of poo poo. The misfire comes and goes in intensity but it's always there and has that really choppy, random quality that makes you think it's a fuel problem, but cuts in so abruptly that I'm leaning toward spark. It can only idle briefly without assistance and is almost impossible to ride at even very low speeds because it keeps cutting in and out. I also can't do any testing with it running because neighbours complain. Everything is connected up properly (I haven't really disturbed anything anyway since getting the bike), the engine is mechanically sound w.r.t. valve clearances, plugs, leads et al. Is it possible to trash your MS by doing what I've done, somehow?
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Sep 11, 2016 04:01
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Buy an exhaust for it and does the datalog have anything interesting in it?
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Sep 11, 2016 04:24
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I don't want to buy an exhaust for it if there's something much more expensive wrong with it under the skin, I'm on a shoestring and $300+ is a lot of money to blindly chuck at something. I also feel like it should run at least reasonably well with just the header, especially as it ran fine when I first got it; all my mechanic senses are telling me the current terribleness is far too much to be caused by a simple lack of a muffler. As for the log, I generated a brief one of getting it started and keeping it from dying by holding the throttle slightly open. The rpm track is very rough and choppy even while the TPS is flat lined from my holding the throttle open by cranking the stop screw right up. The only unusual looking thing is the coolant temp spikes and dips periodically and not in coincidence with anything else going on. Obviously there is no coolant temp to sense and no sensor to do it so I don't see how this is possible?
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Sep 11, 2016 05:11
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Slavvy posted:I don't want to buy an exhaust for it if there's something much more expensive wrong with it under the skin, I'm on a shoestring and $300+ is a lot of money to blindly chuck at something. I also feel like it should run at least reasonably well with just the header, especially as it ran fine when I first got it; all my mechanic senses are telling me the current terribleness is far too much to be caused by a simple lack of a muffler. If there are variable readings coming from a sensor you don't even have then it implies something is messed up somewhere. Is the TPS reading evenly/correctly too and just how 'choppy' is the RPM? I assume it uses both of these to do the fueling? If it doesn't physically have a coolant temp sensor does it still have the wiring loom for it? Do you still have an earthing issue so it is managing to get some sort of reading from the coolant sensor pin?
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Sep 11, 2016 10:19
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The TPS reading is perfect, the rpm is a semi-random zig-zag varying by maybe ~150 revs. The temp sensor harness is grounded to the block and I can't find anything wrong with the grounds, the only slightly sketchy thing I can find is that the half a dozen or so MS grounds are bolted to a small machined aluminium plate which is itself bolted to the earth terminal. Pitcher:  The earlier spikes are me just trying to get it running enough to hold consistent revs. It also fouls the plugs like a fucker and floods super fast if you aren't careful.
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Sep 11, 2016 20:39
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Ok so I had a go at sticking a spare spark plug in the end of the lead and having a look at the spark itself. It looks very feeble and probably explains why the bike fouls and has so much difficulty running. Is it conceivable that I hosed the quadspark module by not having all the grounds hooked up and attempting to start the bike? There doesn't appear to be any documentation for diagnosing the module with a multimeter; if worst comes to worst I'll spend the $90 but I'd like to have at least some idea that it's faulty before buying another one. I don't know how it's wired internally, ]is it worth switching the input and output wires so they're running coil circuits C and D instead of A and B? Or is it all joined together somehow internally, making this a useless test?
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Sep 12, 2016 06:26
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It is certainly possible to kill things with a "split ground", with something like the starter -> ground connection going the wrong way could kill all kinds of things. Also ignition modules are possible to burn out by just giving them "the wrong signal" (such as way too long dwell or an inverted signal). No idea about the fragility of the Quadspark module though. Just comparing for example input and output resistance of the four different channels of the quadspark could get you some information (obviously when disconnected from ECU and coils). If they're all the same it doesn't say much, but if A or B are different from C&D, that could indicate brokenness. Using the two other circuits in the quadspark should make a useful test (or maybe even a fix). At least something inside that thing is going to be separate bits for the separate channels (they do have separate grounds, so it might be four independent circuits). If you have an oscilloscope / scopemeter I would suggest first just making sure that the spark output signals from the megasquirt are good though, in that they "make sense" relative to ground (measured across signal input and ground on the quadspark).
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Sep 12, 2016 07:01
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Unfortunately I haven't got a scope or any means of scrounging one so no real way of making sure the MS signal is ok, but I have the feeling (wishful thinking?) that it is because the spark is constant and uninterrupted when testing with the plug, it's just consistently really weak. That makes me think the MS is doing it's job hunky-dory. I'll have a go at measuring the resistance of the different channels, the harness is soldered to the MS harness but I'll just jab pins into the insulation (after disconnecting the ecu of course) and have a go.
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Sep 12, 2016 07:06
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Just use your multimeter and turn the bike on (but don't start it) and check voltage potential between alleged ground points. Starter casing to engine housing, starter casing to frame, to battery negative, etc.
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Sep 12, 2016 07:16
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Sounds very much like you've murdered that ignition module to me. But I'd want to check the outputs with something anyway... A meter in AC voltage mode might give some indication of whether they're being driven if you've got one that can read frequency/duty?
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Sep 12, 2016 09:54
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Grounds are good, tried swapping to the other two channels on the module. Result is basically the same as before, steady but lovely weak spark, coughs and splutters and won't run, floods like a bastard. Multimeter reveals all four channels have the same impedance from the signal to the earth and nothing else. My meter doesn't do duty :L
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Sep 13, 2016 10:08
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I wonder if you could use a diy homebrew ECU to run a common rail diesel?
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Sep 13, 2016 12:00
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Ferremit posted:I wonder if you could use a diy homebrew ECU to run a common rail diesel? Sure, but it would be very homebrew, as most kit ECUs are gas only. http://hackaday.com/2012/07/10/building-a-homebrew-diesel-ecu/ CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 13:22
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Ferremit posted:I wonder if you could use a diy homebrew ECU to run a common rail diesel? The injectors are the hard part, on Toyotas at least they're driven by ~120 volts.
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Sep 13, 2016 21:03
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Voltage itself isn't necessarily much of a problem, driver circuitry is pretty straightforward to put together. The thing the various homebrew ECU/EFI lacks (together with most of the popular third-party ECUs such as Megasquirt) is all the logic to handle the precise timing of fuel injection. They do precise timing for ignition, and they handle precise length of pulses for fuel injection, but they're really separate things. Also all the lookup tables, logic around that, and the various compensations going on are just build for petrol. Far from impossible to make something that can handle electronic diesel common-rail injectors, but also far from trivial. I'm sure noisymime would love it if someone added diesel capability to Speeduino. That hackaday project is as far as I understand something "simpler", if I read it right the arduino controls the pressure/flow delivered by the pump but the actual injection is done mechanically (or through some other means).
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Sep 14, 2016 10:28
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Slavvy posted:The injectors are the hard part, on Toyotas at least they're driven by ~120 volts. What? How?
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Sep 14, 2016 13:37
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Voltage boosting and big MOSFETs? Given the rail pressure in thousands of atmospheres, I assume 12/24V wasn't going to hack it.
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Sep 19, 2016 19:10
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DC to DC converters and crap. Most very high pressure injectors are piezo, which take a lot of voltage to do their thing, and I think you have to be able to dump voltage out of them for them to return to rest position.
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Sep 19, 2016 19:56
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CommieGIR posted:What? How? My non CR Toyota diesel uses a spill control valve to regulate fuel volume inside the injector pump (once the desired fuel volume has passed after the injector spring cracks it bleeds off the pressure and shuts the injector off) and that runs on 12v up until around 2000rpm but after that 12v cant open and close the valve fast enough, so the spill control driver uses a DC-DC converter to crank the voltage up to around 120v to get the valve speed up. Considering toyotas piezo injectors are firing 7-12 times per injection event I can see why they're using high voltage to make em jump faster
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Sep 20, 2016 05:19
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