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No I don't, just checked. I think the clock or something is always on also, cause if I leave the car for more than a week without starting it, the battery is too dead to start the car. The time display always seems to be on so I'm assuming that's the problem. Should i just check out the schematic for the clock and try and figure out what's cause it or how would I diagnose this?
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Jul 14, 2016 00:12
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I feel that if the digital clock is draining your battery to that point, your battery is hosed. Keeping in mind the digital clock on my bedside table has been running now for 3 years on 3AAA batteries. Also if it's more than about 4 years old it's hosed.
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Jul 14, 2016 08:53
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Yeah that might be it. I was just thinking it could be something that's on all the time from the PO loving around. I have to pop the radio faceplate off or the battery drains in a day because the radio is always on. That might also be the issue?
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Jul 14, 2016 12:44
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That sounds like a wiring issue to me, I assume it has a 'new' radio and the previous owner installed it wrong.
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Jul 14, 2016 13:15
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Now I know nothing about nothing so take this with a grain of salt. I had an old Commodore than drained the battery because the PO had wired the fans (no, not rad fans, vent fans) direct to the battery. They ran all then time, even when the car was parked and the key out. Sounds like you have a similar level of PO fuckery, I'd start by finding out what is still draining the battery when the car is off and parked. Multimeter ahoy!
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Jul 14, 2016 16:10
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If the clock isn't supposed to stay on and does, and the radio isn't supposed to stay on and does, I'd suspect the switched ign +12V isn't switched anymore. Maybe the always-hot 12V got tied to the nominally-switched 12V. Like the Hitler guy said, I'd start looking behind that radio. Good place to find PO fuckery.
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Jul 14, 2016 22:40
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Yep or start pulling fuses while watching the multimeter that's hooked up to the battery.
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Jul 15, 2016 13:08
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Question for those of you in GB/aus/Canada/nz: should I buy a 25 year old import 1jz supra? It would be low mileage, I don't have a particular one in mind yet but I can't shake the desire for one. How big of a pain in the rear end would it be as a daily freeway cruiser? I have other cars and work for AAA so it wouldn't be a huge deal if it had to periodically be out of commission, but as a general idea is this a good one or just dumb? E: I am in the us and of course parts might have to be ordered from abroad/Japan.
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Jul 15, 2016 13:28
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:It would be low mileage How do you intend to verify the mileage when AFAIK there's no legal recourse if the Japanese exporter rolls back the odometer?
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Jul 15, 2016 13:49
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Raluek posted:If the clock isn't supposed to stay on and does, and the radio isn't supposed to stay on and does, I'd suspect the switched ign +12V isn't switched anymore. Maybe the always-hot 12V got tied to the nominally-switched 12V. Like the Hitler guy said, I'd start looking behind that radio. Good place to find PO fuckery.  you find the ol' T&T wiring method: Twist and Tape!
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Jul 15, 2016 18:56
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sharkytm posted:
Oh god, I did that back in high school. At least now I've graduated to the S&S method: Solder and Shrink (heatshrink).
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Jul 15, 2016 19:00
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EVERYWHERE 
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Well this is going to be a fun weekend... I never got a chance to look up the codes yesterday cause it rained (poured) for the first time in a month so I'll have some answers this weekend
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Jul 15, 2016 19:39
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sharkytm posted:
What's the over/under on wire nuts? 2? 3?
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Jul 15, 2016 22:08
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Pop up headlights are the true endstate for all car enthusiasts.
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Jul 16, 2016 06:58
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Nostrum posted:Pop up headlights are the true endstate for all car enthusiasts. This is true, there is a person in my city with an absolutely beautiful red and chrome stingray with popup headlights like build into the bumper. There a lot of really nice cars here, the neighbour sorta across the street has a new stingray, old one, ferrari, and some other poo poo in his huge 6 car garage (I'm not rich, just live in a nice area)
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Jul 16, 2016 12:52
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Extra posted:How do you intend to verify the mileage when AFAIK there's no legal recourse if the Japanese exporter rolls back the odometer? I guess I don't care. I haven't ever owned a Toyota with less than 160k mi on it and my two cars now have 240k and 220k respectively. Ignore the mileage. How reliable is the 1jz in early 90s supras? Is it as reliable as most Toyota engines from the era? With normal tuneups and tbelt changes can I expect 250k+ like with most of their engines from that period? I won't be modding it.
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Jul 16, 2016 15:13
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The JZ engines are generally regarded as bulletproof and are well loved by drift dickheads for tweaking. Early 1JZs had issues with the turbos under high boost loving up due to a valve failing which allowed exhaust into the intake. Apparently that's a cheap and easy fix (PCV valve) and is the only actual recorded problem they have.
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Jul 16, 2016 19:37
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88h88 posted:The JZ engines are generally regarded as bulletproof and are well loved by drift dickheads for tweaking. Early 1JZs had issues with the turbos under high boost loving up due to a valve failing which allowed exhaust into the intake. Apparently that's a cheap and easy fix (PCV valve) and is the only actual recorded problem they have. Wish I could squeeze one in my 00 4Runner.
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Jul 17, 2016 03:33
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LeeMajors posted:Wish I could squeeze one in my 00 4Runner. No kidding. I saw one once someone built to tow their supra drift car. 700hp in a 1990 4runner with a custom oilpan to clear the front diff. Madness of the best kind.
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Jul 17, 2016 03:52
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The... Rubber I think... In the harmonic balancers perishes over time and they literally fall off. But you lose accessories /power steering etc until you get it home so not the worst aka dead engine. The ceramic wheels in the stock twins are a bit weak and don't stand up to higher boost well. I had some chineseium steel ones the PO imported in my JZX90, and while they came on boost a few hundred rpm later, they also came on harder which made it more fun to drive IMO. A single GTX will kick the poo poo out of the stockers anyway. The stock turbo manifold fires both the wastegates right into each other, which is hardly efficient. An aftermarket dump pipe will cause you to run about 13psi at wastegate pressure though, which will kill the stock twins pretty quick. Coil packs burn out a lot, due to the heat between the valve covers there. Not much you can do. If you can't find a manual, the a340e is as fine an auto trans as you'll find from that era. It shifts quick and can be modified to shift faster than you can, and will handle all of the horsepower. Oh and get a remote oil filter setup or get used to hating life.
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Jul 21, 2016 15:03
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OK this is all awesome info, thanks. I'm pretty set on finding a manual one but it's good to know the auto is ok, a lot of the sedans with 1jzs seem to only be available in auto.
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Jul 22, 2016 01:38
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:OK this is all awesome info, thanks. I'm pretty set on finding a manual one but it's good to know the auto is ok, a lot of the sedans with 1jzs seem to only be available in auto. As much as an auto is like catching a venerial disease to me, the chances of a looked after version are much higher.
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Jul 22, 2016 03:38
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The Toyota ECTs put most auto trans from the 90s to shame. I wouldn't compare it to the ZF we put in Falcons over here or the DSGs in VAG cars but for a regular belt driven auto trans it's a thing of wonder. I had an A340E with a "stage 1.5" shift kit on my JZX90. Basically a modified adjustable valve body ( http://www.mvautomatics.com.au/products.html ) that made the thing shift so abruptly you had to be pretty awake to drive it without traction control on. With some bigger/better tyres it would have made a great drag car though. I've also had an LS400 with the stock A340E trans and it was still a quick and precise shift, and would generally happen when you'd want it to. The Economy/Power mode is quite good. In Power mode it will hold the gears for longer and kick down earlier. If you want to drift or race competitively you'll want the R154, but if you're just going to hoon around and maybe do the odd track day the auto will probably do the trick. The later model JZX110 auto transmissions are tiptronic and use GPS and all sorts of hokey computations to shift magically but I have no idea how such dark magic translates to the track, and swapping one into a supra would likely be impossible. Best bet is to find a wrecked 7MGTE manual car but again, they're going the way of rocking horse poo poo lately.
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Jul 22, 2016 04:23
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I have an r154 i pulled from a rusted out supra years ago and its been wrapped in a garbage bag in my parents basement since 2012. I also have to go to montreal next week to pick up my k-pro, so if you want me to boroscope all the 1jz autos they have at the JDM depots i can pick out a low mileage one that didnt live its whole life on factory oil. Edit: i realize now it is not OP who asked about 1jz's but you should buy my transmission and swap a 1j in anyways. TWSS fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 06:19
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poo poo I have bought for mine recently: Head gasket Head gasket set (valve stem seals etc) Exhaust gasket Thermostat Water pump A bunch of tools to do the above jobs To buy: Cam belt + tensioner Accessory belt The correct ARP head stud set for the 7M - 203-4202 is the 'standard' set, 203-4701 is the undercut set which supposedly preloads them. quote:You will also note that ARP® offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more equalizes the “stretch” of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force—and one that compensates for head gasket compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing! ...and possibly a head skim. Definitely going to look into getting an electric fan in there, will replace the pipes at some point and possibly upgrade the radiator.
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Jul 22, 2016 12:24
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I figured out the code (52) which is the knock sensor. I think it is probably because there is a bolt missing from the one side mount that attaches to a truss (or w/e its called). It also seems to be leaving a lot oil behind. There's a constant drip from somewhere. The mechanic said something about fiddling with the turbo oil lines so I'm guessing it is probably the problem.
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Jul 24, 2016 19:43
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Did you get this sorted yet?
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Oct 20, 2016 12:46
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Yeah I did. I haven't been posting cause I've been home like maybe 20 days all summer cause I've been out of town for work. Yeah I got rid of the error code and it was running fine after that but the turbo is leaking a lot of oil now so I'm probably not going to drive it till next spring (it's lovely weather here now). I think the turbo needs a good rebuild or maybe even replacement. I should probably try and do a compression test when I have time as well but I've been gone all this week and I'm in Sudbury all next week as well so it might be in a little bit.
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Oct 20, 2016 17:41
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Oh hey, I got involved with a 1986.5 supra in January of this year. I really should get my photos together and do a thread, Though I ve been waiting to do the head gasket...yeah its blown, hydrocarbons in the coolant test was positive. The cool part is I've gone to over 4 shops and they all say "nope" to doing a the gasket. Also can anyone tell me why everytime I go to a slavage yard every supra has it 7mge engine removed? One person told me there is a big market for that engine in south America. Anyway good luck with the turbo.
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Nov 3, 2016 06:29
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If I can do a head gasket, most people can do a head gasket. The annoying thing was there's plenty of guides for turbo 7Ms yet I couldn't find one for the NA which meant I had to basically vlog it for myself as to which pipes went where. There were some really loving annoying pipes connected to the fuel system which spiderwebbed through the intake and were massively fiddly to connect up properly. I stripped it and rebuilt it in a couple of weekends, most of which was spent figuring out routing or fighting with plastic connectors as well as fitting, removing and refitting parts. I'm assuming the 7MGTEs being snatched up is because despite the gaskets being shite the bottom ends on them are good for around 500bhp with no mods other than a bigger turbo, injectors and an ecu. Or simply for spares. *edit: don't cheap out on the gasket, machine work or the studs. Also make sure you replace the cam seals after your machinist has dunked and cleaned the head otherwise you're gonna have a real big oil leak that's hard to find. 
Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 11:56
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Hey man I really appreciate the advice. my supra is also a NA. would say this guide is good? http://yotamd.com/toyota/mk3_supra/bhg.html I have a guy who is willing to help me and used to work at a machine shop, redoing heads, says he saw a lot from Daewoo cars. (something about them detonating, if the owner followed the factory service schedule the would be under warranty) But I am alittle concerned with this car I've been burned by people who over state their skills etc. I have a nice photo folder on computer and I really should get around to making my own thread about it.
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Nov 6, 2016 04:27
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Any and all info I've gotten on this car has come from this website and the guides contained within... http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/43-guide-changing-a-head-gasket/#comment-194 Obviously again this relates to a turbo like virtually all of them do, we have exceedingly rare cars these days but there's only a few bits which are actually different when doing an NA. From what I remember when doing the job; there's connectors (3 or 4) down by the gearbox which you have to unplug, these are obscenely tight (for waterproof purposes) so expect to spend time and swear a lot doing that. There's a hard line linking the fuel rail to the block, this is entwined with the intake and is fiddly to do but the issue is getting the bolt on the lower part threaded into it properly as it never quite feels like the right angle and doesn't bite. It's a dick. There's a couple of pipes to connect, one which is right underneath the lower half of the intake, if you forget to connect this you'll have a very large fuel leak, ask me how I know! The other threads through the lower half of the intake and connects to the underside of the upper intake and is a complete twat to get done up properly. You'll spend more time swearing at connectors and figuring out ways to reassemble things than you will taking all apart and doing whatever else it is you need to do. TAKE LOTS OF VIDEO, SO MUCH VIDEO of you just making notes of where you're disconnecting things from. Stuff like the power connectors for the injectors that run white, brown, white brown alternating front to back, there's another brown plug which is in virtually the same place which you could mistake it for. That brown plug goes through the intake to a socket underneath it. Make sure the hose at the back of the head is good too, they rot out and where they're situated are a twat to get to, make sure the fitting is also solid and if not, get that replaced now. If you can get new o rings for the injectors then do so too, these can rot out and any leak means it won't run right. It's not a hard job but it takes a good while and you can gently caress yourself by not making notes. Also you could do a lot worse than replacing the radiator with a larger one (£150) and getting the water pump (£40), thermostat (£10) and temperature sensor (£10) done at the same time if you're able to throw money at it now.
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Nov 7, 2016 13:14
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Oh, man, looking at that car brings back memories. I owned a white 86 1/2 Supra, 5 speed non-turbo, bought brand new in April 1986 (yes, I'm old). Babied that thing, did all the recommended maintenance, washed it with cloth diapers (like Cameron's dad), soaked the dash with Armor All weekly. Owned it for 15+ years, and over the years replaced the following: Exhaust manifold gasket Head gasket Radiator Water pump Clutch cylinder AC Compressor Alternator Windshield wiper motor AC Control switch My worst memory is that the piece of poo poo OEM thermostat got stuck, overheated the engine and blew the head gasket. At least that's what my mechanic theorized.
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Nov 10, 2016 03:19
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The headgasket blew because the bolts from factory were torqued inadequately. The only ones that didn't blow are the dozen or so worldwide that don't yet have enough miles on them, my friend has one sitting at about 24000 miles and it'll blow eventually, they all do. It's apparently down to Toyota initially designing the engine with asbestos gaskets but then changing them to non-asbestos pretty much while the engines were rolling off the production line. As such the torque spec was wrong for the new non-asbestos gasket and they all blew up over time.
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Nov 10, 2016 11:29
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