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As a third choice since it's a round hole in cast iron I would just tap it with a pipe tap and put a pipe plug in it.
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Jun 21, 2017 00:54
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When the time comes to replace the plugs I'm going to go with whatever is cheapest at Princess Auto that day. I was definitely thinking about tapping it, but $$$ So I can't seem to get the right size speed bleeders for the rear drums, so I've ordered a hand held vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. Should be in this week and I can finally finish this brake job.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:58
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So I finally had time to bleed the brakes today! I ended up accidentally ordering a compressed air brake bleeder instead of the hand-pumped vacuum unit I had though I was buying. Turns out it was probably a really good turn of events because there was a ton of air in the lines. Ended up buying a lovely compressor for the job after realizing that I'd have to wait another week for a new bleeder to come in...and the compressor was actually $30 cheaper than the hand pump unit at Princess.  The kit came with this neat fill canister that ensures you don't run the master cylinder dry while bleeding  This is the unit itself:  It's off amazon under 8milelake brand, and it's completely mediocre. It was pretty much completely useless with the stock fitting and hose, thankfully the hose I got with my speed bleeders fit onto the barbs and fit much better over the bleed screws. It still sucked in a lot of air but with the smaller hose it was manageable. The brakes still aren't 100% but I think that's actually more to do with the state of the rear pads. There's a lot more stopping power now, and when the truck is off there is no play in the brake pedal. Once it's running there's a bunch of slop introduced and the brakes don't start grabbing till about 1/3rd of the way down. I had something similar happen to me when my rear drums were almost seized on my Ranger, and if the front brakes were any indication then the rear brake pads are probably just in really poor shape and not working right. It won't be for a while till I have the time/money to gently caress with them unfortunately. It's definitely going to be another case of remove everything and replace it, including the lines. Might be able to use the actual drums though. Either way, it's definitely safe to drive and it stops a lot more predictably than before. edit: I totally forgot drums had adjusters. After watching some youtubes I think these adjusters may have been engaged by the parking brake, which would make sense why the brakes were not adjusted - the parking brake has been disconnected and is now rusted completely. I adjusted the drums, they were out by a huge amount and the slop in the pedal is almost completely gone. autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jul 3, 2017 |
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Jul 3, 2017 04:50
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Of course everything here in Manitoba has to take three times as long because of rust. Finally got to use my MAP torch for something and made quick work of unsticking the rusted nuts. Ruined one of the bolts on the way out and now I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get a new nut + bolt so I'm still not done with this, not to mention the muffler clamps looks rusted to poo poo too so it's going to turn that into a nightmare no doubt, especially since I'm not sure I'll be able to get the impact in at such a poo poo angle.
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Jul 5, 2017 03:31
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