|
I'm interested in buying several reproductions of pieces I particularly like, but figuring out my options online has been difficult. I'm mostly worried about shelling out good money for something that doesn't match my expectations. I've done a bit of online research and have some questions. 1. Giclee prints are just ink sprayed on whatever you want, right? Can be paper or canvas or whatever? What's the difference between a normal and a premium giclee? Is that normal terminology or some weird thing art.com pitches to swindle you out of more money? 2. Do I need to get my print framed? Is it worth the money if I'm just hanging it in my house? If I get a canvas print, and it's wrapped on wood, does that need a frame? Or is it just mainly for protecting paper prints with the glass? 3. Are there any reputable hand-painted reproduction houses? Or would I be better off with a private commission with a specific artist? We tried one place already, and the quality of the finished product was garbage. I feel like the best use of money is prints, at least at our sub $1k / piece budget. 4. What's a good price point for a larger (50"x40") print? $100-300/paper, more for canvas, based on what I'm seeing online? How much should I expect to pay for framing on top of that for a similar size? Is it worth trying to diy the frame? 5. Is there a trustworthy place that people normally use for giclee prints? I've been looking at places that already have the paintings I want on file, but I have contacted the museums to see if they would provide me with higher resolution scans so I can just go to any giclee print place. Thank you!
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 06:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 16:42 |
|
|
Former art student with framing background here. 1. Giclee is basically an inkjet print printed at a higher resolution on archival paper/surface. The difference in a giclee print versus a normal art print comes down to a few things: Color reproduction, archival ink, and dpi (dots per inch). Giclee prints are generally printed at 1600 dpi with inks formulated to resist fade and color wash and will match the color of the original closer. A regular art print will generally be printed around 300-600 dpi with non-archival inks and on a non-archival surface. Does that make the difference worth it? Potentially; it entirely depends on the piece and how you value it. If the piece in question has a lot of sharp lines or heavy gradients, then I'd say the giclee is better as the higher dpi will allow for crisper lines and smoother gradation, and the archival paper means that it won't yellow over time. That being said, the differences the average person will notice between in a 600 dpi and a 1600 dpi reproduction of a piece are probably going to be minimal, and you could get a regular art print printed on archival paper/framed with archival glass. 2. You do not need to get a print printed on canvas framed, but you should frame it if it is printed on paper. Tacking a paper print to the wall just screams 'college dorm room', and the glass helps protect against yellowing and dust or dirt from getting on it. I don't know why, but people are much more likely to touch/pick up a paper print than they are a canvas, so it's a godsend to be able to just windex fingerprints off glass instead of trying to remove it from your print. Personally, if you do get a print on canvas, I think they look best with a basic frame and no glass. 3. Not any that are cheap. You are basically asking someone to paint an already established item so the expectations of accuracy are already high for the consumer, and because it's painted to replicate brush strokes and paint buildup it will take a lot of time to produce. Morally, I have a little bit of an issue with them too as some of them don't ask for artists permission or obtain reproduction rights before reproducing a work. 4. I can't comment on the price of a larger print as it depends entirely on the quality of the print you want and where you're getting it produced, but that seems like a good ballpark. The frame price will depend on the choice of frame. A basic metal one that is just cut to size could be around $100, but even simple wooden frames can get much more expensive much more quickly due to the more involved nature of assembling it. A very general rule of thumb is that whatever you spend on the print is what you can expect to pay for a basic frame at your local frame shop. You can easily make a pretty good looking frame yourself if you have the patience. Some crown moulding, a tin of stain and a mitre box will make a pretty nice looking frame inexpensively. If you want to spend a little more, art stores like Dick Blick sell framing kits that you can get in multiple sizes that just snap together and will look fairly professional. If you want to take all the guesswork out, there are websites that will mail you a pre-made frame at any size (even crazy odd ones) but those can approach frame shop levels in terms of cost. 5. Look for any place that lists, or will provide the information if asked, the dpi of their prints. If you have the files yourself, you could even call your local print shop and ask what dpi their printers can print at. That way you can get your prints faster and you can ask for a sample before they print it full size. Hope this helps!
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2017 22:43
|
|
|
You can get perfect 3D reproductions of a limited number of works from these guys, who have the only technology for it, and the reproduction rights - https://shop.verusart.com/ As far as hand painted reproduction goes, it's always going to look weird and wrong. I knew some people who were reproduction painters and even that was just painstakingly putting brush marks of certain colours in key areas over a very high quality print on canvas. Hand painted reproduction is a creepy business.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 04:04
|
|
