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1983 Toyota LandCruiser FJ60 Immediate driveabaility needs: Fix sticky breaks -extract and replace drum retainer bolt Diagnose floaty steering Fix E-Brake Fix rear shock bushings Flywheel Cover Fix exhaust Other less important stuff it needs: -Find better front bumper Correct Weber carb mount kit Remove Stereo Rear shocks Change oil pan gasket/inspect plug Remove rear bumper and hitch The entire back end of an FJ60 Updates: Checkin out the carb Temp Carb fix but then disaster! Front bumper, some aquisitions Undercarriage inspection, rip out good headliner. Take stock of parts & Cat removal - 2/12/17  I acquired this thing back in August 2016. Found it on craigslist, checked it out, and then took a chance and bused myself up there to drive it back 90 miles. A quarter of the way into the trip the brakes began to drag. I stop and pump, but only makes the problem worse. I gently caress around with it for a bit and realize if I toe up on the pedal they release. Well there's the first thing I'll need to fix. Apart from that the thing farted along at 55mph tops, handling the 100 degree weather like a champ up a steep pass. However its regular handling was loving scary with a big giant dead zone and wandering tires that made going 55 feel like 100. That will need addressed too. Clutch felt very light, I've never owned a 4x4 Toyota before so i dunno if that is normal, goes in and out of gear well enough. Also the gas pedal is a bit light as well, more on that later. E-brake is not functional, locked in place which I read is common on these, I want an ebrake, don't like manuals without em. So lets see what I got here.  I'll order a bumper, has a ton of slathered-on black crap all over the front end, hiding cancer no doubt. Love that roof rack though.  Not too bad, there are some dings in the doors, and one in the back by that broken side light. I'll need to get different wheels, something simple not flashy.  Bumper is dented. And the bottom of the tailgate is rusted out, the first things to rust on these are either the tail gate or the rain gutters, my gutters look good though  Ug and those decals    Whole wagon full of crap, some of it useful, i'll sort through it all later. Interior is decent though.  And there it is, the mighty 2F inline six. Ok torque, crap horsepower and MPG, mated to a four-speed manual transmission. It's sucking air through a weber carb right now, which if you look closely is not attached to the air filter housing. Getting sleepy, I'll update tomorrow to bring it all to the present. Also let me know if timg is alright, or if you wan the 1024 wide photos straight like the first image. Willfrey fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 14:36
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Did the PO throw on an unpainted fender and then decide to just flat-black the entire front end? Should clean up really nicely. Those wheels are though.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 14:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Did the PO throw on an unpainted fender and then decide to just flat-black the entire front end? Those pictures were from last August, most definitely is frozen now. I have more photos to sort through, just wanted to leave some space in the OP to add crap in digestible chunks instead of a big ol' wall of images. Fenders are original. The FJ was originally blue which looked good. But I do like the safari tan as well.
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Feb 10, 2017 14:52
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Blue would have been a way cooler colour on this truck. I'm sort of surprised it got a full respray and the tailgate is still rusting. Must be huge drainage problems, like on the third gen 4Runner.
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Feb 10, 2017 14:54
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The respray is of questionably quality. Flaking off a lot of corners. The rig has around 90k origional miles and sat quite a bit in the Boise sun before ending up with the PO in a mountain town where it sat two winters out in the deep snow. There is a lot of little stuff on the rig that I'm sure the PO fumbled through (not that I'm any better)
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Feb 10, 2017 15:12
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I know on some of the 70s trucks I've driven that the crap-quality 'drains' in the corners of the tailgate/hatches clog with pine needles almost instantly and trap water inside the lazily folded and spot welded metal. I think in that case you're stuck trying to flush out the drains, then applying cavity wax or something to get a better chance at survival next time. Boise has sun?
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Feb 10, 2017 15:18
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Nice 60. Do you know about SOR? If you have trouble finding little bits and pieces, they're usually good for them. Ebay will be your best friend too. There's also CCOTs and pacol, but honestly most of their stuff is 40 or 70 series. E: If you need body parts, I think but am not completely sure that the guy who did the new cab for mine also does 60 series bodies. I know they used to make modified mine hood (think a deck people can stand/sit on where the hood goes) for both them and 70s that live underground. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 15:41
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Nice toy! me and my buddy drug an 84 60 with your original paint out of a field this summer!  He is currently (slowly) going through the rusty fuel system and desmogging it. 276k on his! 
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Feb 10, 2017 17:00
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Nice. Yes I really like that blue. I can bitch and complain about the 2F engine (and I will) but in spite of its shortcomings they seem to last forever Ok, so, first two days I had it I put a nut on the filter housing and emptied the interior. I'll take an inventory of all the stuff I have shortly. lets take a look at that carb  Yeah thats not right. The little throttle linkage mount bracket thing is bent all to hell. In spite of how crap this is I can understand why they did this. The studs for the carb aren't log enough to cram this mount piece between them. More inspection reveals that the carb itself is sitting too low, the air filter housing has a big gap beneath it. The throttle on the carb doesn't articulate all the way, because when floored the throttle linkage mount flexes quite a bit, while the bits of the carb that turn the butterfly bottom out on top of the intake making it get about 70% throttle when floored. So my theory is the PO got his weber kit, saw he'd have to change the studs somehow on the intake, and said gently caress it and slapped it all together.  So I'll need to get the proper mounting stuff. In the meantime I'll fab up this chunk of angle iron so the throttle linkage mounts to it and won't flex. Still wont open all the way with the throttle articulation thingamajigs bottoming out on the top of the intake manifold. The two bolts down low will do nicely to fit the angle iron in the correct place. A bit of grinding, welding and drilling and I'll be golden. I scrounge around my spare parts I was given and find two bolts that fit. Also bonus WTF is this poo poo photo:  A bolt stuck in a chunk of metal zip-tied right above the smog pump. (edit: AC compressor not smog pump) Guess it was pretty important to keep it just so. Willfrey fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 22:47
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Is that last picture a belt tensioner that's inexplicably going unused (due to the loss of a lockbolt)? Ghetto smog pump disable?
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Feb 10, 2017 22:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is that last picture a belt tensioner that's inexplicably going unused (due to the loss of a lockbolt)? Looks like an AC compressor clutch, unless you mean something else. Ghetto AC disable.
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Feb 10, 2017 22:53
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:Looks like an AC compressor clutch, unless you mean something else. Ghetto AC disable. Yep. AC is inoperable. Smog is hacked out, smog pump is just a 20 lb idler wheel now. In spite all the smog stuff getting removed the thing runs decently, fires up just fine and idles great so I can't complain about that. Willfrey fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 23:00
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Ok, so I re-fabbed the carburetor throttle linkage mount. Not really pretty or even square but it gets the job done, no more fuckin flex in the linkage mounts. This will get me by until I can get the carb stuff ordered up. I'm so self-satisfied with my work I take it out on a little drive.  That rear end is sagging, the springs are old and crappy and will need replaced, which is fine, I was going to put a modest lift on it. Perhaps Old Man Emu stuff, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.  Ug those Tacoma wheels do need to go. I'm thinkin old 4 runner OEM's, or any older toyota OEM rims with the 6-lug pattern.  The brakes began to lock up on the way back home, yeah, going to definitely need to address that. But soon that will be the least of my troubles, because after owning it a grand total of four days this happens:  Fucker popped out of gear (or never was in) and rolled back across the street and slammed into a big oak tree. Glass everywhere, I discovered it after walking out of the house to check the tires. Had to knock on the neighbors door and clean glass out of their lawn like a doad. Knocked the roof rack off and bent up the gutters where it was mounted, ripped up all the crown molding. When it hit it severed the exhaust by the catalytic converter. Blew apart the bushings on one of the rear shocks. Dented the bumper and sheared off the bolts on one side. The hitch beneath also sheared bolts. Tailgate is dented but it drops ok. The hatch however is completely hosed, and it taco'd the roofline good enough where the hinges aren't square and it can't be opened more than a few inches. I'll have to hack it apart to get it off. So I lost a lot of momentum and ambition to work on it after that. I had to keep it parked my cramped garage to keep if out of the weather. I did do a little bit of this-and-that work, I'll post those photos next, but I also ended up moving to a new house with a bigger garage and that took some time. During that move the clutch stopped functioning so its parked in my new garage and hasn't budged since the move. Real life was keeping me busy and the onset of winter left me with little ambition. regardless I did acquire a few things during that time span and have thought long and deep about what I want to get out of this rig. Willfrey fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 00:17
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gently caress, you tease.  Please be okay please be okay
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Feb 11, 2017 00:42
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motherfucker. every goddamn time. I've had this happen to two cars. one was a yugo, the other was a rover. except the rover found a subaru and did about 2 grand in damage to it. beat it back out and might as well spray the rest black now. :<
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Feb 11, 2017 00:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:gently caress, you tease. It isn't, but i do now have time and resources to work on it. I have two hands and a brain so i can still make this work, just wont be what I envisioned when I bought it. I can mope about it and be a victim of circumstance like a little bitch or I can grab destiny by the hips and rawdog it. Forewarning: Toyota purists avert your eyes I'm not going to heal the wound. I'm going to amputate.
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Feb 11, 2017 02:47
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I hope you learned your lesson and fixed the parking brake.
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Feb 11, 2017 02:49
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Fermented Tinal posted:I hope you learned your lesson and fixed the parking brake. I bought wheel chocks so yes its fixed. I ordered an ebrake cable the day before this occurred, so i now have one. I'm doing all new poo poo for the brakes (T100 master cyl, 4 runner calipers, all new drum brake hardware & cylinders, lines, etc).
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Feb 11, 2017 02:59
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cursedshitbox posted:motherfucker. every goddamn time. I've had this happen to two cars. one was a yugo, the other was a rover. except the rover found a subaru and did about 2 grand in damage to it.
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Feb 11, 2017 03:01
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Willfrey posted:I bought wheel chocks so yes its fixed. Honestly, I'd look into rear discs, once you add up new drums, shoes, cylinders, and hardware the costs are similar. As for the t100 master, did the 60 not come with the 1" bore version like 40s and 70s? It's a common upgrade to use a 1" LC master in 1st Gen 4runners and old Pickups. Never heard about using one from a t100.
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Feb 11, 2017 03:14
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Fermented Tinal posted:Honestly, I'd look into rear discs, once you add up new drums, shoes, cylinders, and hardware the costs are similar. T 100's are 1 1/16" bore, i belive fj60 guys use the because you dont have to bend the brake lines as much to get them to reach. thats pure speculation by me. The calipers i intend to use are from 92 or 93 4runner. I may also get a backplate eliminator, and i may do all this while i rebuild the burfield joints I considered going rear discs, but then I'd need figure out something else for the ebrake. Also i already ordered all the rear drum brake stuff so I'll go that route. I suspect the front brakes are actually to blame, I'll post pics once i am off work
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Feb 11, 2017 03:34
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I think for rear discs the calipers are the rears from a Chevy Malibu so they work with the stock cables. Not 100% sure.
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Feb 11, 2017 04:10
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So the same day the cruiser got smashed I was going to check out a new place to live, and was given an offer I could not refuse. They needed to paint, install some things and pave the garage, so I was put in sort of a limbo knowing that I was about to move in a month or two. The cruiser could drive in its present state, and it could be useful in the move so i didn't really want to tear into it too much. Here it is, note the chocks now securely in place, stuffed in my garage like a cock in a sock.  Found a already blacked-out front bumper on ebay for about 150 in Loxley Alabama. A STEAL. Snatched it up quick and slapped it on. It looks a little dopey, I'll probably just buy a tube bumper, and maybe a winch? I dislike this black front end because the FJ60's front looks good as is, making it all a dark formless mass with no solid body lines is kinda ugly in my opinion. Also makes the front wheel wells look huge, and the squatting rear end is not helping.  I clean the back, dang that is a good looking factory blue. I gave it a couple cracks with the slide hammer, hoping I can open it enough to unscrew the hinges, but it's not wanting to budge. So I hacked it apart (not pictured)  I do one side of the rear drums. Didn't replace the wheel cylinders just yet (more on that later). I attempt the other side but end up rounding out the phillips-head counter-sunk drum retainer bolt. gently caress. I put the wheel back on I'll fix that later.  I find another piece of the puzzle in Flordia from E-bay. This one wasn't as cheap as the 'bama bumper.  with shipping. Zero rust, but concealed by the camo are a couple of dents. I think i overpaid, ah well, can't win them all. I tracked down this tailgate in Moyie Springs, Idaho off a "Lots of old FJ parts for sale" craigslist ad. drat near the Canadian border and a good 4 or 5 hour drive straight up the Idaho panhandle. Guy only wants $200 for it, and claims it came out of rolled FJ60 from Texas and it has little to no rust. Welp, nothing ventured, nothing gained, I head up to buy it sight-unseen. I wish I would of taken pictures of this guys place, he had a BJ60, about four FJ55's, two FJ60's that he was building up or whoring out for parts. Cool old dude, actually said he's moving up here so maybe we'll meet again. I'll have better pics up in the next post, it is in decent condition with some rust if I'm honest, but mine is far worse and has a giant dent. The latches and supports are rusted but I'll just reuse my old ones. The silver handle piece is straight, I've seen those on ebay for up to $200 by themselves, so don't think I overpaid. Next up: The move Willfrey fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 13:52
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Ooo, so we're still in storytime. 
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Feb 11, 2017 14:47
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Yep. Last one here: So I begin moving to the new joint. First thing is the exhaust eddies back in the vacant hole at the rear of the cruiser giving you a splitting headache after a short drive across town. Not good. Also on its final voyage the clutch went out so I first-geared it across all the neighborhoods without stopping. Fortunately I live in a sleepy town, I drove it into the garage and there it sits.  There it is with the hatch removed. Sawsall'd it off.  The exhaust clamp downstream from the converter was from the PO. When it wrecked the exhaust sheared the u-bolt style clamp holding the upstream pipe together. I know this is leaking, i just put the band-style clamp on there as a band-aid to keep it from breaking apart while driving. I've taken both these off and am going to get it all welded, and replace the back tip with one that vents out behind the wheel to help prevent that horrible exhaust blowback.  Aaaah... This is probably whats going on with the brakes.  Note the passenger rear leaf spring. really sick. Just out of frame the bottom bushings on the right rear shock are completely gone, which explains the clunking I could hear. Yikes I hope it didn't gently caress up the bolts  The carpets are in pretty good condition, as are the door panels. The rear side panels are gone, but the PO gave me some "stuff for upholstery" which I'm guessing is the long roll of blue-grey vinyl. The head liner is in great condition. Lets tear that poo poo out.  Glued in insulation. That'll all have to go eventually. I stopped taking out the headliner just over the passenger seats.  Ah.. Missing the flywheel cover. I don't recall seeing one in with everything I got with the rig. Quick ebay search shows they're going for $20ish so no big deal. So that about sums it up. Now that the snow has mostly melted and it isn't below freezing anymore its time to get this all back on track. I'll take an inventory of what I have, everything I got with the rig tomorrow, as well as all the stuff I bought. Willfrey fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 15:43
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Good luck, it seems like you're starting off on the right path with those parts
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Feb 11, 2017 18:17
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Just gonna toss this link out there for ya in case you're interested: http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/60series.html Of course, his tailgate and hatch would probably run $400 CAD or so each, and they're in from Goderich, Ontario. On the flip side, they'll never rust, and fiberglass is easy to repair. I can absolutely confirm the strength of the parts too, if you find my thread for my FJ45 you'll see one of his cabs after it took a 6' tumble off tractor forks. While they don't have much listed either, if there's something you need, I'd call. Mike's son Robin does most of the glasswork now and iirc he's more into 60s than 40s like his pop, he was working on a RHD-LHD conversion on one the last time I was at their shop a couple years ago. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 18:34
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 Did not get much done on the cruiser but I did reorganize all the crap in the garage, and since I'm not married I moved a bunch of it into the house to work on.  The Previous owner left me a roll of grey vinyl, some of the original plastic panels, and their hardboard backing. That backing may be useful as a template so I'll hang onto it. He also left some speakers, the cruiser has a cd player with an AUX port which is all I care about so I'll use it. Two door speakers and an amp are in it too but are not hooked up. The gasket set is there as well, a full engine set and an extra oil pan set which I'll definitely use, it drips oil badly. There's the front tow hook and an exhaust clamp I salvaged from the wreck. And springs.  Canadian springs. I've never put together a set of springs before. Is it easy? Will just one work?  Here are some things I acquired. The light covers I'll leave off for now. Pair of cheapo reman shocks to get me by, ebrake cable, bushings, and the rear brake lines & wheel cylinders.  An oyxgen sensor on a carbed vehicle? I'm guessing that wire leads to some unhooked emissions doodad. The cat looks in good condition, but I'll have to cut and re-weld a flared end on one side and re-clamp it. I suspect the flared exhaust tubing welded to the cat was a bit too flared. The band-clamp at the back fit nicely on its joint so I'll reuse that. I'll take it into work on Monday and weld a correctly sized flare to it and clamp it back in. Tomorrow I'll try to install those shocks, remove the existing stereo equipment, crack open and finish the rear brakes. Inspect the right front wheel and see if I'm leaking brake fluid or gear oil.
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Feb 12, 2017 14:11
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Willfrey posted:
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Feb 12, 2017 16:47
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I like the specific "North American" labelling.
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Feb 12, 2017 20:58
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Well, anything made in Canada is technically Made in North America. The States don't have a monopoly on the word American even though they act like they do.  It's playing fast and loose with it though, especially with the stylized script. E: Strange that they even use North American at all though, most things made here say Made in Canada, or like where I work, Printed in Canada. Look at a Northern Safety catalog sometime, you'll see it because my workplace prints it. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 21:13
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Fermented Tinal posted:Well, anything made in Canada is technically Made in North America. They're just emphasizing the Northerness. It's North American, but it's really North American.
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Feb 13, 2017 08:39
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