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I recently acquired a property that was abandoned in a good area that I want to eventually live in. It has two separate sections, one full house and one rear garage apartment. I'm struggling on finding information on what to do in this situation. I'll try to give a ballpark assessment of the scenario: Both sections were flooded during a pipe burst (one in the back section, 2 or 3 possibly in the main section) about SEVEN years ago. (e: By flooded, I don't mean fully flooded with standing water for a long period of time. It flooded one small room, and most of the basement. If there is water damage it is on the walls/ceiling) From the outside, the house looks modern and lived in. There is no sitting water but I do see mold in some sections. There is some asbestos in the basement according to utility workers that have been brought in. They also used to be a hoarders home, who abandoned it along with all their belongings (including food, but not refrigerated food). These are the two main issues that I can see, however I know these two combined are enough of an issue on their own. My goal over the next few months are the following.. 1) Clean out the hoarders mess. I think this should be the first step since it's probably hard to determine structural or other damage until the rooms are empty, correct? I have mold filtered masks, gloves, and boots, and a couple of friends with the same that would help out. Rent a dumpster for everything and take out as much as I can this summer (there is a LOT. Luckily it's not garbage, it's mostly useless junk.) 2) Assess the damage. This is where I'm starting to get into "I don't know what I'm doing" territory. Do I call contractors and ask what it'll take to get it livable? Do I need to call specialists in different areas? 3) Take out a mortgage for repairs on the house. I know you might be thinking "Rory Gilmore, that is a dumb idea. No bank would put a mortgage against a house in this condition." I have talked to my bank about the situation and they agree that it's doable. I think if I focus on the back section first, I can rent it out to pay this off. 4) Repairs. What's first? -For the water to be turned on, I know the pipes just have to be repaired in certain sections. To get to the pipes, walls might need to be torn down. Hell, walls might need to be torn down for mold too though. -For the electric to be turned on, everything needs to be re-inspected by an electrician. I'm not sure the chances of it passing inspection on the first go are (probably low). -For the gas to be turned on , the gas company has already told me that they won't turn it on until the gas pipes in the basement are re-done, and the gas meter is placed outside the house. I know this will cost a lot. 5) After everything is running and the unsafe sections are removed, I think the hardest chunk is over and everything else is minor details until it's livable. Am I on the right track here? Or is this way too much for one person to handle? spooky wizard fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jun 3, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 20:14
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:58 |
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Location? I'd rent a 40 yard roll off and get a good respirator with p100 cartridges (the low profile 3M ones are great), and get to work. Clean out/demo is the easy part, and you might be able to get some help from friends if you provide the safety gear and food/beer. Expect that every bit of drywall in the lower floors are going to go away, along with the insulation. Mold spreads, and the only way to deal with it in this case is a full "to the studs" gut. If the panel or writing got wet at all, expect to rip it out. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jun 3, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 22:55
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sharkytm posted:Location? I'd rent a 40 yard roll off and get a good respirator with p100 cartridges (the low profile 3M ones are great), and get to work. Clean out/demo is the easy part, and you might be able to get some help from friends if you provide the safety gear and food/beer. I actually already had one of these kicking around, which is specifically for mold, so I think it'll do the trick. But I'll get the low profile one for friends. It's in NYC so getting a lot of this removed with a dumpster is going to be expensive, and hard to fit, but I'll call around and see what I can manage. I can put 6-7 bags of trash out 2 days a week for free however, including furniture on some days, and drywall/whatever in low amounts. But there's soooo much stuff that I can't let that be the only way of disposing things. Regarding air conditioners and refridgerators that are in the house, I know the city will pick them up if I schedule them to.
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Jun 3, 2017 23:06
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When you get to it, it's very possible for a layman to learn enough to repair your own plumbing. Yes, certain projects will still be above a layman's ability but a burst pipe is fixable. In your down time you should start learning about PEX. This is after all the 1-2-3 steps though - and those will be a lot of work. Just know that going in. Hiring out is expensive but the time and labor savings are clear. Don't hire out blindly, really give effort to understand the work/job/step that you're hiring for. Some you will be able to do yourself, some you might have to hire for. I'm not meaning to be disrespectful but it would be helpful to know if you're physically strong. Demo can get heavy and sometimes requires some oomph.
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Jun 4, 2017 03:43
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Zahgaegun posted:When you get to it, it's very possible for a layman to learn enough to repair your own plumbing. Yes, certain projects will still be above a layman's ability but a burst pipe is fixable. In your down time you should start learning about PEX. I'll start looking into doing things myself as well then. I know regarding the gas, and putting the meter outside, that seems like something that's above my paygrade. No disrespect taken. My username might make you think otherwise but I'm a tall bulky dude, so the demo won't be a problem.
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Jun 4, 2017 03:45
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Your neighbors will be happy that someone is fixing that place up, make sure you talk to them when you get an opportunity. You'll start off with all sorts of goodwill.
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Jun 4, 2017 03:47
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Zahgaegun posted:Your neighbors will be happy that someone is fixing that place up, make sure you talk to them when you get an opportunity. You'll start off with all sorts of goodwill. Yeah, it's actually already happened. I stopped by to start cleaning the outside and 3 different neighbors came up to me saying how good it was someone was doing something, offering help with plumbing/electrical depending on what they could do, took my number so they could call me with issues when I'm not there, help with taking the trash to the curb if I'm not there on trash day, etc. It was nice 
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Jun 4, 2017 03:54
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RoryGilmore posted:I actually already had one of these kicking around, which is specifically for mold, so I think it'll do the trick. But I'll get the low profile one for friends. Get quotes on a weekend dumpster rental. It'll go way loving faster than making 15 bags of trash a week. I've done a couple gut jobs/hoarder cleanouts, and a dumpster is the only way to go. Lots of stuff doesn't bag well, and you'll tend to lose momentum if it takes months to get the first step (cleanout) done. That full face respirator is good, but it'll be hotter than a half face and glasses.
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Jun 4, 2017 13:28
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In 2013 i did a full gut of a house I inherited in Brooklyn NY. It was NOT cheap. I did everything the (mostly) legit way, getting permits through the city - which requires an architect to sign off on. An architect is needed even if you do not change ANY structural supports. You also need a plumbing and electrical permit. I however only got the general construction permit, signed by the architect and licensed general contractor, and the plumbing permit. The GC did the electrical on the down low. To get the general construction permit, asbestos testing also needs to be done. The guy who did my asbestos testing identified asbestos tiles and said he could either enter it in the permit that it won't be disturbed, or I could remove them myself prior to him submitting the findings. He would then come back and verify they were removed before he submitted the paperwork. The GC took care of the paperwork for the dumpster. You need a permit to have the dumpster on the street. Why does the gas meter need to be put on the outside? My gas meter at the time was in my basement and had a transmitter installed so it could be read from the outside. My electric meter was in the basement which ConEd would have to come in monthly to read. I am thankful I decided to go the legit way with permits, because on the VERY FIRST DAY of work, someone called the city inspectors to come check on my job. They came prepared with all the paperwork/permits filed, including the asbestos testing. They claimed there was a lot of dust being made and that someone called concerned it was asbestos dust. Since all my paperwork was in order, he just said to use a hose to wet the debris to keep the dust down. If I did not have the proper permits, he said my job would have been shut down and I could have been fined thousands of dollars. You are really rolling the dice doing this by yourself/without permits. It only takes one rear end in a top hat neighbor to completely screw you over. Edit: As others have said, you will need a dumpster. You won't believe how much debris is made and how heavy it is. You will never get it all out with normal trash collection. If you have a driveway you can try to put the dumpster there. I think you do not need a permit if the dumpster is on private property. If it has to stay on the street, then yes you need a permit. I think they run a few hundred dollars. My basement also had a leaking pipe that was a problem for years before I inherited the house. Everything had to go, including the wall studs. Any questions feel free to ask. Some Guy From NY fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 18:31
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Some Guy From NY posted:In 2013 i did a full gut of a house I inherited in Brooklyn NY. It was NOT cheap. I did everything the (mostly) legit way, getting permits through the city - which requires an architect to sign off on. An architect is needed even if you do not change ANY structural supports. You also need a plumbing and electrical permit. I however only got the general construction permit, signed by the architect and licensed general contractor, and the plumbing permit. The GC did the electrical on the down low. To get the general construction permit, asbestos testing also needs to be done. The guy who did my asbestos testing identified asbestos tiles and said he could either enter it in the permit that it won't be disturbed, or I could remove them myself prior to him submitting the findings. He would then come back and verify they were removed before he submitted the paperwork. Alright I think this is the most helpful since you've done this in the city. What kind of permits would I need, and how did you find reputable general contractors/architects in the city? I would like this to be legit and legal while still doing what I can myself, and leaving what I can't to a contractor. Con edison came in and said they would not turn the gas back on because the gas line from the street to the house is from 1930, and they would need to dig it up and replace it on their dime. They said if they do that, I would need to move the meters outside since they want all meters to be outside now. Honestly con edison has been the most stressful part of this whole process, since customer service has no idea what energy services does, and promises things ES doesn't even come close to delivering on. There is a driveway I can fit a dumpster in, I think I will be good on that front. But I'll work with a GC to figure out my options. edit: Follow up question, which dumpster company did you use? spooky wizard fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 19:29
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If you want to do most of the work yourself and can swing it finishing the rear unit first and living there while working on the main area is a great option. Living in a construction zone is terrible especially with a family but living next door to it is great. The amount of time saved by being able to wander over any time to check a measurement or put in 15 minutes to apply a second coat of paint before bed can really add up.
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Jun 4, 2017 22:25
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RoryGilmore posted:Alright I think this is the most helpful since you've done this in the city. What kind of permits would I need, and how did you find reputable general contractors/architects in the city? I would like this to be legit and legal while still doing what I can myself, and leaving what I can't to a contractor. All the permits and the dumpster company were set up by the architect/GC. The contractor was recommended by a coworker who I know is a perfectionist himelf - so I knew he would not recommend someone who he did not like or did not do good work. My GC also redid my parents house after my house because he was that good. My house had national grid for gas and like I said previously, they installed a meter with a remote transmitter. The house was built in 1951 and still had the original street connection as far as I know. Email me at scottoc87@gmail.com and I can answer all your questions and give you the names of the companies I used.
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Jun 4, 2017 23:14
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sharkytm posted:Get quotes on a weekend dumpster rental. It'll go way loving faster than making 15 bags of trash a week. I've done a couple gut jobs/hoarder cleanouts, and a dumpster is the only way to go. Lots of stuff doesn't bag well, and you'll tend to lose momentum if it takes months to get the first step (cleanout) done. Totally agree. Resist the urge to demo one part now and other parts later- do it all at once, and recruit friends/pay for help to get it done fast. Also resist the urge to save this or that section of drywall- tear it all out and start fresh. Nothing worse than spending extra time mating old to new, in most cases it's not worth it.
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Jun 6, 2017 19:06
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Another option that would require some research and does cost money is if there is a reintegration house in the area who rent out team labour. In my town there such a thing and they rent the ex-cons to do all sorts of manual work with the goal of up skilling them. So you shred the interior plaster and dump it on the floor in each room and break up any outside concrete. Arrange a time and day with the Re-int house and dumspter and a Forman and upto 8 guys with wheel-barrows turn up and do all the messy, heavy lifting for you. You pay them an agree'd upon fee and feed them lunch and you now have an empty skeleton house. Some places also have teams who'll demo and remove for you. It'll cost some money, but 8 guys can gut a house stupid fast.
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Aug 18, 2017 02:55
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Sounds like fun. I can't imagine not using multiple dumpsters though one at a time. Rip out everything that is wet or was wet. Actually it sounds gross as hell. Good luck.
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Aug 18, 2017 15:28
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I'm in NYC and just found a great plumber and also a repair dude that fixed my washer dryer. I know you're not at that point yet but if you can use either of those things later I'd be happy to recommend them. A friend is working on a similar project in east New York, sounds like a crazy amount of work, good luck!
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Nov 13, 2017 01:16
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:58 |
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If dumpsters are seriously problematic, another possibility is to buy a cheap pickup truck (or rent one), load up the back, slap a tarp on top to keep stuff from blowing off, and haul it all to the dump. It's more work than the dumpster (you have to keep stopping demo to haul stuff off, and you'll have to unload yourself), but probably substantially cheaper than the dumpster route. But this is a situation where I would absolutely go with dumpsters if I could. You're already signing up to do a tremendous amount of work, anything reasonable you can do to reduce that workload is worth doing. Oh, and remember to make certain all your contractors are licensed! Get a quote with their license number and the amount of their bond. If an unlicensed contractor gets hurt on the job, you're liable for their medical bills, which can easily be gigantic. Good luck, in any case. Given the un-remediated water damage, I imagine you're going to find a lot of rot in the framing of the house once you get that drywall off. Go read kastein's house thread for what to do in that situation (short version: jack up the wall to take load off the rotten stud, cut the stud out, put a new one in). You have a fantastic opportunity here to acquire lots of power tools, incidentally.
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Dec 27, 2017 05:17
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