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Started in the Home Spergin' thread, decided perhaps I'll have enough questions and progress shots that a stand alone thread might be worthwhile. At this point I've taken off two cabinet doors to teach myself how to strip paint. Googling suggests 450-500 degrees F and to stay below 1K to avoid putting lead in the air if you have lead paint. I have already lead tested all the layers and no lead is present. This picture shows my first attempt @ 550 with what felt like forever heating an area. Heavy scraping with a paint scraping thing followed to get this result:  So I'm going through maybe 2 layers of paint with a primer layer at the bottom? Here is a second attempt with more concentrated heating of areas and ~700F, way less effort on the scraping was needed here:  I am hoping to make it to the store tomorrow to pick up some sample sized paint and primer of the Ben Moore ADVANCE stuff recommended with brushes/rollers. Also planning to use my random orbital sander for the sanding work. I'm also debating buying some zero VOC stripper and trying that method to see how fast and effective it is + cost of that method. Question - Any negatives to running the heat gun at a higher temp say 900F?
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Dec 15, 2018 02:22
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 06:27 |
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I worked on this project fairly heavily for about a week, then I took maybe two weeks off and literally the day before I was going to resume working on it I got appendicitis so now I'm down for another 2-3 weeks on restricted duty. Before I stopped working on this I got 9 cabinet doors fully stripped and sanded. Here's a picture of some of them: I also tried the liquid stripper inside but with the vertical surfaces + they are finicky cabinets instead of broad pieces I did not attempt to saran wrap them or use the stripper paper covering stuff to allow for the stripper to soak for more than 2 hours without drying out. With only 2 hours to work I was still having to mechanically strip some of the paint and also sand it. I ended up deciding to not use the stripper anymore excepting the real small corners I've not yet gotten to and I am just using the heat gun and scraper for everything else.  These cabinets I've actually done two primer coats on but I forgot to take a picture so I'll post one with the next update when I can get to painting. I've also learned that the Husky stripper tool is well worth the 5 bucks premium over the Harbor Freight one at least if you are doing a large amount of work with it. I haven't had any issues that I can tell (probably dying of cancer) from running the heat gun at a higher temp and it certainly speeds up the work. We have 26 cabinets and 9 drawers, I will probably end up putting 40-60 hours into this project overall by my rough estimate. I might try and sit on the floor to paint the cabinet trim in about a week since I can probably handle that limited of a core workout, I'll post when I do. edit: you can also see in that cabinet trim picture that the fake leftmost drawer front has a big patch on it, I had the scraper catch on the smallest little edge and rip about an 1/8th inch thick piece of the drawer front off, I patched it with Durham's Rock Hard and I think I did a good enough job that it will look okay once painted. If not I guess I'll have to redo that one piece. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Feb 3, 2019 |
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Feb 3, 2019 20:33
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So the appendix recovery ended up taking a full month before I was cleared for lifting anything over 10 pounds and physically I didn't feel like doing much of anything for 5 weeks. Finally got back into working on this project, I now have the bottom cabinet (shown stripped earlier) painted and 9 doors painted. As I type this I have cabinet door hinges soaking in simple green. I have some other chores for today but I'm hoping to get a few doors put on. Next step will be stripping/sanding/painting the drawers for this cabinet before moving onto the one above it. I'm hopeful that lessons learned will improve the speed of my workflow. sorry for the poor lighting Primer coat #1  Primer coat #2  Semi-Gloss coat #1 (and final?)  I have 2 doors I only painted with one coat and the rest I've done with two coats due to space constraints on my platform. I'm going to compare how they look when in place in the kitchen and determine if I'll do one or two on the rest of the stuff. I did go ahead and paint the cabinet itself twice. Now a problem I'm having is that for the semi-gloss coats I am getting bubbles in my paint. I used a new roller, I didn't shake the can I gently stirred it, and this problem went from my first to last door so I don't think it's an issue of not having enough paint on the roller. For now I am using a 3.5" brush (Wooster Alpha) to go back over the paint after the roller covers the surface and then letting the "excellent leveling properties" of the Ben Moore Advance paint to end up with a pretty drat smooth finish. I am hoping to figure this out before I paint again but we've got the plan now to move next year so I'm going to be less anal about this vs. if I was staying for another 10 years. If anyone has any advice on how to get no bubbles I'm  
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Mar 17, 2019 22:10
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I’ve not personally had good luck with foam rollers. I’ve gotten bubbling like you’re taking about plus I’ve had trouble spreading the paint evenly with them for whatever reason. Next time I need to paint a cabinet or door I think I’m going to use a little weenie roller with a real low nap and see how that goes.
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Mar 31, 2019 20:40
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What is a little weenie roller? I tried some cautious googling on the topic with no luck. I'm about to go out of town for a week but when I get back I'll need more paint so I'll try and buy a different roller type when I get the paint.
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Apr 1, 2019 05:28
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Just one of those tiny diameter rollers (non-foam). Like one of these, with a low nap: https://m.lowes.com/pd/WHIZZ-6-in-MICROLON-Ceilings-and-Walls-Synthetic-Blend-Mini-Paint-Roller/999990152
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Apr 9, 2019 23:15
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Stripped and repainted my entire kitchen last summer. Ended up buying a sprayer to do it. Every house I've been to with repainted cabinets always looked awful to me, with the sprayer, an inexperienced idiot on his first go made it look professional. Highly recommended.
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Apr 12, 2019 18:36
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I just got back a few hours ago from buying a low nap roller. I'm painting 6 drawer fronts and one cabinet front with final coat(s) tomorrow/sunday and we will see how that looks. bobua - you're probably not wrong but at this point I don't know if I am willing to spend the money on the setup, it probably doesn't help the cost:benefit that we're planning to sell next spring/summer. I will say this though when comparing my work to the PO's work it's a huge improvement over their brushstroke lines. I'll try and capture some well lit pictures to show it. But 100% I'm sure a sprayer would be smoother, I'm hoping to get close though!
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Apr 12, 2019 19:32
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When I used the low nap roller it immediately was making GBS threads fibers onto the wood/paint surface so I ripped it off in a fit of rage and went back to the foam roller. I ended up painting the first of the non-primer coats and using the big brush to smooth out the air bubbles. Then for the final coat, which also had me opening a new can of paint, when I applied it with the foam roller I wasn't getting the bubble problem so I didn't use the brush at all. The final look has a bit of an orange peel look to it like on a new car. I spent hours on Friday getting 9 drawer pulls installed because I'm a huge moron and thought the new pulls had the same screw spacing as the old pulls. Turns out the new ones are about 1.5 screw widths wider so I had to move the pulls up about 1/4" to have just enough wood to make it work without making the pulls look ridiculously off center. This last minute change also meant that I didn't have a jig and although I hastily made one out of a clean paint stirrer my time would have been better served driving to home depot and buying one. Lesson loving learned, I'm ordering one now for use next time. Also I am going to locate and drill the holes BEFORE I paint because trying to do this poo poo on painted wood makes everything so much more delicate and scary. Getting this Kreg jig. This shot kind of lets you see the new vs old look. Now to bang it out across the rest of the kitchen at a faster pace.  Once I got those mounted I went back into paint stripping mode which included ripping down a piece of wood that had a lip on either side for presumably hanging/mounting a microwave in this nook. What do I find behind this? Unpainted wood (yay) with a giant hole in it (boo), so now I have to cut a piece of wood the right thickness to fit and then fill in the edges and sand it smooth. 
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May 5, 2019 19:46
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Here's some hole patching shots, pretend I've also posted pictures of more painting and stripping and sanding. I'm getting close to the range hood which I'm going to replace. Does anyone have any brand/model recommendations? I have a 36" wide space, ideally an 1/8" wiggle room on either side would be great. The current vent hood is 6.75" tall and measuring from inside my house I think the exhaust is 12" wide and 4.75" tall, goes out the back through a brick wall to the outside. edit: forgot to measure the depth of the space, in bed now, I'll update in the morning for all my loyal followers Edit2: 13.5" for the vent Hood depth, 20" to the outside edge that contains lights  If I had to do this again I'd remove the thin sheet above it and do a proper tracing.  Wooden clamp extender for the glue to hold and dry.  Durham's Rock Putty, this is a picture after the first coat. I let it dry for a few hours and then filled in some more gaps there. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 05:39
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 06:27 |
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 Picture is two days old, bottom cabinets under the sink are now stripped and sanded painting to start tonight. Got the new range hood and a new faucet installed. Had contractors do the countertop because I'm not going to attempt granite and also had contractors do the floors because we're on a time crunch now.
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Aug 20, 2019 02:55
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