|
Turbo Fondant posted:Yeah it's a super easy job if the fuckin screws come out. I ended up snapping all but two of the fasteners on my old 800 and iirc I ended up pulling the valve block out entirely to drill em out because all the junkyard valve blocks I found were as bad or worse. oh yea, even my rust free truck the screws were corroded and soft. I got lucky. the reflow didn't fix my issue so I had to get a replacement controller but all good now. I really want to do a gmt800 gang tag lol
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2023 17:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 22:36 |
|
|
Mr-Spain posted:
DO IT. I'd change, even tho I rarely post anymore. I had to replace my rearview mirror because it cracked. I upgraded to one of the Gentex mirrors that has a compass in it. I noticed that the instructions for calibrating it were old, and magnetic north has moved quite a bit. I had to try and figure out what the original settings were, and guessed, and updated them. If you have a bit of the OCD like I do, and noticed the compass was off, you can see if these instructions I wrote help you get better accuracy. As I had to guess a lot, If anyone has better info i'm all ears to updating.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 18:14
|
|
|
My company Silverado is in the shop getting a rear bumper and trailer hitch replaced due to an inattentive driver rear ending me. I needed a rental and the only thing they had with a cargo bed wasn't a massive fleet spec wagon was a Gladiator. I forgot how nice it was to drive a smallish truck again as opposed to the full sized. It just feels so god drat nimble. Feels very similar to my old 98 XJ in many ways. But I swear, this thing has more rattles in it (38,000 KMS) than my 25 year old 996 with 3x the mileage. The AC is marginal at best. Bizarrely, even when on full vent/max AC it's a roll of the dice of air is even going to come out of the vents at all. I have yet to figure out if I am doing something weird or if its just faulty. Seats are quite uncomfortable. Had a 4 hour highway drive yesterday and it was not fun. There is also minimal seat adjustment. I'm 5'11 and I have it completely, 100% fully rolled back. If I was 6'2" it would probably be uncomfortably tight. Fuel economy is, uh, expected for what it is? Approx 20MPG @ 70MPH/110K with the V6. The full size Chev with the turbo 4 is absolutely more economical both around town and on the highway. A poo poo ton of road noise even with the basic OEM all seasons. I can't imagine how loud it would be with anything resembling an aggressive tire tread at highway speed. The quick removable roof and aerodynamics are certainly not helping but there must be zero sound deadening in it anywhere. BUT, on the positive side, I *do* far prefer most of the infotainment system over the new gen silverado. It even remembers where it stops an MP3 file when you turn your vehicle off which drives me up the wall if you're listening to a 2 hour long podcast in the chev. Sometimes when you restart it's not even on the same track but if you shut your vehicle off for more than 3 minutes regardless of track it already starts over and you have to remember where you were and hunt for the time. It's such a simple oversight. but to offset it, the built in GPS/map blows. The customization of controls is really nice and I like the ability to make choose between imperial and metric features. IE: Want celcius for your heating/cooling but MPG for your fuel economy? You can do that. GM? You make everything metric or imperial. I have a good handle on both units of measure but as a child of the 80s I find PSI and MPG me go-to units for pressure and fuel economy. You can also configure a lot of the simple poo poo when driving that GM forces you to stop to do. The bed is actually a really good size for general utility and would probably fit the bill for 95% of what I would use it for. The windshield is a rock magnet. When I got it the rental agency said to not worry about any cracks/chips because they already know they need to replace it. They said it's already had 4 new windshields in it since February and needs another quite badly. Would I buy one? Probably not much of a chance but to be fair its it is better than I expected in many ways... but in most other FCA build quality shines through and is still exactly as expected. If they could make them more comfortable and better fuel economy, I might consider a used one if the price was right.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 19:53
|
|
|
I enjoyed my JK as a jeep. I hated it as an only vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2023 13:23
|
|
|
I am still struggling with how much I don't like the Gladiators, when my CJ8 Scrambler was one of my most favorite cars that I've had. In GMT800 news, I used the poo poo out of my NOCO Boost Plus GB40 jump pack the past couple weeks with the Escalade. I kept coming to it in the morning and it'd just barely not start. I thought it was a light stuck or something, so I charged it and it did the same thing. I found the battery of the dashcam pillowed and figured that was the problem, so I unplugged that... no difference. Bottom line, I finally got a meter on it and after the charger said it was fully charged, it was showing 12.4v... welp, there's your problem. Batteries in that thing are so stupid easy to change.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2023 16:33
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
So I am toying with the idea of buying our old ex-shop truck from another location that we just inherited. It's a 2008 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with 160k KMs/100k miles. 5.4 of fury, extended cab, long box. Absolute bottom of the line fleet spec with manual hubs, manual windows and door locks. BUT it does have functional cruise and good AC. Everything seems to work but there is a tire sensor issue which is the only idiot light. Doesn't appear to have any leaks which surprised me. I can tell from driving it the brakes need some love (quite spongy but stop well), probably some suspension work, a new tailgate (original is hosed) and a very good cleaning. Tires are surprisingly good LT tires BUT they are mismatched from front to rear (same size obviously). Drivers side washer nozzle is a drizzle instead of a spray. Probably clogged up somewhere. Very minor surface rust from chips in a couple spots, needs a windshield. If I can get it for next to nothing, I am tempted to get it as a beater. Hopefully ~$3K as it's basically worthless on the books at this point. I *presume* these are relatively tough and reliable, easy to work on with cheap enough parts? Anything to majorly look out for that isn't blindingly obvious? I did a quick look at the trip computer and it shows 22L/100km average, so around 10ish MPG so I'm under no illusion of economy 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2023 16:26
|
|
|
3V mods like to hold onto their plugs like early 2V mods wouldn't. Get the tools to do it properly and the job will suck a lot less. metal lower intake is a pro, should have it by now. 5r110W is fiiine. Chassis is the same from '05.5-12. Cab stuff is mostly '08-16 for most of the interior plastics. That doesn't have the power equipment group so adding dumb poo poo like foglights requires a rework of the fusebox or just... throw wire. (it's the gateway for the can network, i've read rumor that the power equipment group board drops in.) It won't have a ton of power but unlike the 6.4 powerstroke of the time it still runs. It's a good beater. Catch up on whatever maintenance you see fit and run it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2023 01:17
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:3V mods like to hold onto their plugs like early 2V mods wouldn't. Get the tools to do it properly and the job will suck a lot less. Agree. Family member picked up a free-to-him 2010 F150 with the full heavy payload/tow pack 2wd extended cab long bed, 5.4 3v, so basically a 7-lug light F250. It has over 200k on it and drives like new despite minimal fleet maintenance - he did plugs and said it wasn't great but not a huge ordeal with the right tools. Rides surprisingly well for how heavily sprung it is, and has more than enough power to do anything reasonable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2023 02:25
|
|
|
Oh interesting. What needs to be done if that's the case? I've never had that happen. e: i mean what tools should be on hand to pull the plugs? our fleet company is notoriously cheap so it would not surprise me if they are original plugs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 02:02
|
|
|
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/broken-plug-remover-for-ford-3-valve
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 03:07
|
|
|
Ugh When they design a tool specifically for that, it doesn't give me confidence I'm going to be able to pull them without it lol I haven't bought it yet but I let them know that I'm interested if it's cheap enough.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 05:19
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Ugh It's because you can't. Especially not on number 8 or even 4 where it's essentially shoved into a tunnel of the firewall and in the case of 8 has the brake booster etc. in the way. You can barely get back there to change that plug, never mind do work like extracting one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 13:53
|
|
|
So what is it with the design that causes them to consistently seize?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 14:37
|
|
|
slidebite posted:So what is it with the design that causes them to consistently seize? To alleviate a problem with the 2V V8/V10 heads (plug threads too shallow), the 3Vs use a two piece sparkplug which tends to break in half if you don't use a special tool to remove them, leaving a chunk of plug down in the head where you can't reach it without another special tool. So. 2Vs shot plugs out, 3Vs won't give them up. madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Sep 21, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2023 14:41
|
|
|
Huh. Interesting. Thanks. No idea they used special plugs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2023 14:16
|
|
|
Alright GMT800 veterans, what am I looking for here... Earlier in the week, I noticed a ~1" puddle of pinkish-red fluid on the floor where I park the Escalade. Today, I saw a second ~1" puddle of pinkish-red fluid immediately adjacent to the first one, which was still there. Did the ol' finger test and it looks like coolant. So, I figured it was water pump time. I knew I'd open the hood, see the coolant reservoir empty and a weepy, soaked water pump. Nope, everything from top is dead dry. Coolant level fine, no moisture on belts, everything looks dead dry from the top. What should I be looking for when I get around to getting underneath this thing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2023 16:35
|
|
|
I had the T fitting where it splits for the rear heater core go on the 99 burban, check out those hoses and fittings. 2003 Suburban 5.3 flex (sensor bypassed). In cold weather it cranks, pops, and does not start sometimes. If I pull the fuel pump relay it starts fine and runs if I get the relay back in before it starves for fuel. It started doing this after I replaced the fuel lines and bypassed the flex fuel sensor because it will never see e85, what I read is it will assume its using regular gas without the sensor input and just throw a light until its programmed out. Is the hard cold start related to the bypassed unplugged ethanol sensor or some completely different issue?
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2023 16:54
|
|
|
madeintaipei posted:To alleviate a problem with the 2V V8/V10 heads (plug threads too shallow), the 3Vs use a two piece sparkplug which tends to break in half if you don't use a special tool to remove them, leaving a chunk of plug down in the head where you can't reach it without another special tool. Rainman Ray seems to be a fan of just hitting them with penetrating oil and an impact (very short bursts) with the engine hot. The rearmost are the most likely to seize, at least in the F series, as they get dumped on when it rains. That's obviously anecdotal evidence; I've never dealt with a 3V, and hope I never have to. I did have a 2V that never spat, but it was a later model (2007).
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2023 18:24
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:I had the T fitting where it splits for the rear heater core go on the 99 burban, check out those hoses and fittings. Same on my 95. I replaced all the plastic "quick connect" fittings and rubber hoses just to avoid ever having to deal with that again. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but still not something I want to repeat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2023 18:58
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Alright GMT800 veterans, what am I looking for here... Not sure the cutoff year/engine options for this, but look on top of the intake manifold, toward the back. My '94 has a rigid steel line that snaps into a fitting like this:  When those go bad, it can be a pretty small leak like you described. It's pretty easy (but potentially messy) to replace. Make sure the clamp holding that line is present and properly mounted - I had to replace mine a second time because the line was leaning to one side and deformed the seal inside the fitting.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2023 19:36
|
|
|
JoshGuitar posted:Not sure the cutoff year/engine options for this, but look on top of the intake manifold, toward the back. My '94 has a rigid steel line that snaps into a fitting like this: Oooooohhhh.... I bet it's something stupid like that. I'll look... sometime.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2023 20:15
|
|
|
JoshGuitar posted:Not sure the cutoff year/engine options for this, but look on top of the intake manifold, toward the back. My '94 has a rigid steel line that snaps into a fitting like this: Good call, I replaced hundreds of these back in the early 2000s. The Dorman piece was better than OEM.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2023 20:34
|
|
|
wallaka posted:Good call, I replaced hundreds of these back in the early 2000s. The Dorman piece was better than OEM. thread title lol
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2023 23:43
|
|
|
wallaka posted:Good call, I replaced hundreds of these back in the early 2000s. The Dorman piece was better than OEM. lmao A low bar to clear.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2023 19:47
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Dorman stepping up the game: one of the coolant hose disconnects snapped at the firewall, so I got two of their stainless quick connects to replace it. Other than not being able to get one of the old quick connects off, install was fine and it's all good.  
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2024 23:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 22:36 |
|
|
Yeah they're always kind of a bastard to get off the core, I have had my best luck with a 90 degree pick folding each tab up individually with light pressure on the adapter. Bit like picking a lock. And sometimes they don't cooperate and I get in with a grinder and mangle them. Cool that there's stainless ones now though!
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2024 21:33
|
|
