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stupid puma posted:Super helpful My walls have been destroyed by years of PO doing shoddy prep work, so I end up sanding + priming the entire thing. You may not have to do this, but if you've got a pole sander it isn't much extra work to knock all the high spots off while you're there. This is usually what I end up spackling... all the drywall nails are popping through the surface, so after fixing them all there's no real point in only sanding parts.  It really depends on your standards.. I go crazy because defects in the wall annoy me, but if you don't see them that's a whole different story. quote:Are you guys adding anything to your paint like Floetrol for roller and brush application? I tried it on the trim, I didn't end up liking the finish it was producing. High quality paint doesn't really need it for rollers IMO
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Aug 20, 2022 01:17
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We live in an old house, built in 1931. The walls are mostly beadboard. The previous owner hired (or was) a terrible painter to prep it for sale. I'm talking paint blobs, woodwork that they filled but forgot to paint, stair treads painted so lightly that the color has already worn through, and other horrors. One of the horrors in the kitchen was that they handled the problem of painting woodwork by painting the entire kitchen beige, then running one coat of white latex over the beige on the cabinets and doors. This peels off in long strips, starting with short strips wherever fingers touch (around doorknobs, under cabinet handles, and so on.) We're going to have to hire professionals to come in and redo, because our backs and knees are much too old to do it ourselves. In the meantime, is there a quick way to remove just the skim coat? I'm concerned about removing the underpainting, too, unevenly and making it look worse. While we're at it, can you settle an argument we're having? My husband thinks the problem is entirely caused by painting latex over oil, and I think that nobody uses oil paint in interiors any more, and that you just have to do a lot of prepping.
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Dec 30, 2022 21:55
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I also have a question, what's the best way to deal with this corner and the air bubbles? I tried just painting over it to see if the paint would fill in the holes, to no avail
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Feb 5, 2023 19:20
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actionjackson posted:I also have a question, what's the best way to deal with this corner and the air bubbles? I tried just painting over it to see if the paint would fill in the holes, to no avail Sandpaper/knife to remove the bubbles, clean thoroughly, repaint
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Feb 5, 2023 19:22
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devicenull posted:Sandpaper/knife to remove the bubbles, clean thoroughly, repaint would a box cutter work fine? if i can get my sandpaper in that tiny corner edit: i just used that, then spackled, then sanded, then painted. seems fine. thanks! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Feb 5, 2023 |
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Feb 5, 2023 19:54
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How does one tell what kind of paint is on a particular wall? There seems to be two types of paint in my place and I've heard that you can paint over paint type "X" with paint type "Y", but you can't cover paint type "Y" with "X". I forget which being which. I think oil over latex, but not latex over oil? In my living/dining room and kitchen the paint is kinda smooth, glossy and for lack of a better way to describe it, it feels almost like a plasticy type texture to it. Feels like I could spray it with a hose and it would just repel water. In the bathroom, bedroom and closets the paint is kind of dull and the surface, again for lack of a better way to put it feels as though it has a paper like texture to it. Its obviously paint, and not just the paper covering that one would find on Drywall, and the walls ar obviously not 100 % smooth they have the characteristic orange peel like surface on them that you find in drywall and plaster and so on.
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Feb 5, 2023 20:52
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It sounds like the first paint is a gloss or a semi gloss and the other rooms are an egshell, matte or even flat if the last person to paint was cheap. With most paint the glossier your finish the more durable it is to abarasions/washing so usually kitchens, bathrooms and trim tend to have more of a sheen because those areas get dirty and skuff more than bedrooms. You can paint over oil with modern waterbased paints you just need to prime it with an oil or shellac based primer. Unless the last time it was painted was 30+ years ago it most likely isnt oil on your interior walls. Exterior is another story. If you're unsure soak a rag or cotton ball in acetone/nailpolish remover and rub an inconspicuous area you think is oil. If the paint softens or comes off on the rag it’s latex if it stays hard and nothing happens it’s oil based paint. <---Owns a residential painting company outside of Chicago The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Feb 5, 2023 |
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Feb 5, 2023 23:03
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The Spookmaster posted:It sounds like the first paint is a gloss or a semi gloss and the other rooms are an egshell, matte or even flat if the last person to paint was cheap. With most paint the glossier your finish the more durable it is to abarasions/washing so usually kitchens, bathrooms and trim tend to have more of a sheen because those areas get dirty and skuff more than bedrooms. You can paint over oil with modern waterbased paints you just need to prime it with an oil or shellac based primer. Unless the last time it was painted was 30+ years ago it most likely isnt oil on your interior walls. Exterior is another story. If you're unsure soak a rag or cotton ball in acetone/nailpolish remover and rub an inconspicuous area you think is oil. If the paint softens or comes off on the rag it’s latex if it stays hard and nothing happens it’s oil based paint. They're interior walls, so probably not oil then I guess. The place is only about 15 years old and it seems to have been painted at one point after at least parts of it were painted white/eggshell. I changed the thermostat a few years ago and under it was white paint. I'll definitely try the acetone trick as whoever painted this thing (the previous owners I guess) just painted right over the tile edging which probably served as a way for them to not have to bother masking anything more than they had to. It *seems* like that might be easier than scraping the paint off the tile edging. But then again, maybe not. Thanks fellow goon. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 6, 2023 |
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Feb 6, 2023 03:09
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I just slap a coat of killz on top of everything and then there's no need to worry, and also less need to do five coats to get color consistent between painting over the previous owner's choice of beige in one place and dark blue in another.
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Feb 8, 2023 21:51
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I found that taking a sample of the drywall with the paint on it just doesn't work well (not sure why). I bought this which scans the wall. https://shopus.datacolor.com/collections/buy-benjamin-moore-colorreader?noredirect=1 Looks like they have some issue with LRV values for their classics collection tho lol actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 4, 2023 |
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Mar 4, 2023 20:34
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you can see the SW drywall match (creamy) was a bit brigher than the actual color from this device (white down). I thought maybe it was because white down was BM, but there are closer SW colors to white down, like Nacre
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Mar 4, 2023 20:43
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Why are you doing that?
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Mar 4, 2023 21:25
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BigFactory posted:Why are you doing that? the drywall match I got from them wasn't accurate, it was significantly brighter. So a scanner is really my only option. But I love paint already; I should have gotten it a while ago. I might resell it to my aunt who is an interior designer later. I just got back with a new color which should be pretty close, we'll see how it goes
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Mar 4, 2023 23:59
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A custom match with a sample of the wall is still going to be your best bet to get as close as humanly possible to what's on the wall now. The catch is you have to get the right sample in the hands of someone who knows what to do with it and will take a bit of time to make sure it's a tight match. Whether it's an SW or BM store or one of the big boxes, if they just scan it and send it you're probably not getting a great match. They need to pull back the formula a bit, sample it, adjust, and repeat until it's right. And they'll tell you they just need a sample the size of a quarter, and that'll be enough to get on the spectrophotometer but it's not enough to dry good samples on as you work on the match. I can't remember, are you trying to get it in touch-up range? Hopefully your new color match you scanned is dialing it in, but at some point you're gonna get the color as close as you're able and it's not worth chasing a better color match because all of the other variables start coming in to play. Even if you knew for a fact a wall was originally painted with Ben Moore White Down in eggshell, you could get the same color and sheen mixed up in their Ben, Regal Select, and Aura lines and no one of them will exactly match another. Then you get in to brush vs roll vs spray application, age of the paint, milage differences, etc. and it becomes a fools errand to chase a match beyond a certain point.
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Mar 5, 2023 03:32
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Final Blog Entry posted:A custom match with a sample of the wall is still going to be your best bet to get as close as humanly possible to what's on the wall now. The catch is you have to get the right sample in the hands of someone who knows what to do with it and will take a bit of time to make sure it's a tight match. Whether it's an SW or BM store or one of the big boxes, if they just scan it and send it you're probably not getting a great match. They need to pull back the formula a bit, sample it, adjust, and repeat until it's right. And they'll tell you they just need a sample the size of a quarter, and that'll be enough to get on the spectrophotometer but it's not enough to dry good samples on as you work on the match. If you can get close enough with a generic store match, then just consider painting the entire wall. The corners will hide the differences well enough that you won't be able to notice only the one wall was repainted.
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Mar 5, 2023 03:39
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thanks to clarify, this is just touching up a few closets, so I don't really care enough to repaint since the doors are always closed typically, and it was also be a total pain in the rear end with the shelving, not to mention washer/dryer, hvac, etc. my drywall sample was definitely smaller than a quarter, but they said it was "fine" lol. being able to scan is just so easy, it takes a few seconds and you don't have to damage your wall. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Mar 5, 2023 |
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Mar 5, 2023 05:32
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it looks like they gave me the same paint as before (creamy) but labeled as nacre. I am so goddamn tired of SW lol
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Mar 5, 2023 20:13
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It's gonna dry darker than it looks wet
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Mar 5, 2023 20:31
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Final Blog Entry posted:It's gonna dry darker than it looks wet it finished drying and it's the same. not even close. i'll go back and see what they say
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Mar 5, 2023 20:52
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i'm back, turns out they gave me a color even MORE pinkish than creamy. ugh. so they added in a bit of green which got it to a delta of 1.4. i'll take it. come to think of it, this is the same store that gave me a bad match a few years ago with my bathroom paint, and SW paid to have it repainted, and in that case the color had a bit too much red as well. This store must have some issue with their red calibration (or whatever the term would be).
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Mar 5, 2023 22:28
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Paint tip of the day- don't put a xylene based clear sealer over a water based floor paint  
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Mar 16, 2023 15:02
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 Don't paint your white vinyl siding dark colors folks
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Mar 23, 2023 18:20
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I want to paint the walls of my condo white but I've never painted before so I have a bunch of noob questions. 1) Should I just get whatever cheap matte ultra white at Home Depot? No kids and there won't be any, just cats. I have no idea what color the trim is but I assume color matching isn't really relevant here. 2) There's aren't too many nail holes, but should I fill those in first? So fill with spackle paste, let it dry, and sand with 120 grit before painting? 2.5) Does it make sense to use 3M command strips to hang wall art so I don't have to worry about drywall anchors (I don't have a power drill or stud finder) or should I just do nails/anchors? 3) My dining and living "rooms" are one large space--any issues with just doing one wall one weekend and another on a different weekend? I almost certainly won't paint my whole bedroom in one go either. The unit is about 1100 square feet--should I spring for a 5 gal can or would it be better to get 1 gal cans as I progress? 4) In terms of prepping the wall, do I need to "clean" the walls? Or can I just run a damp sponge over the wall beforehand to remove any dust that would cause the paint to look uneven? 5) For the actual painting process, do I just stir the paint with a stick, pour the paint into a tray, then roller on the big sections and use a brush near the trim? I have a waterproof tarp I can lay down and run painter's tape over the brown floor trim. 6) Do I need to "clean" my roller and brush after using them so they don't get stiff between painting sessions? How often should I expect to replace them? I can reuse trays and sticks right? Thanks in advance. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Mar 29, 2023 |
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Mar 29, 2023 15:33
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Josh Lyman posted:I want to paint the walls of my condo white but I've never painted before so I have a bunch of noob questions. Whatever you do, do not get cheap paint. It'll look worse and cost you more in wasted time and extra coats. I'd seek out a dedicated paint store like Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams, or you may have some good regional/local manufacturers in your area. If Home Depot is what's easy and available to you they still have decent paint if you buy one of the premium products. Wherever you go, buy their good stuff and you'll be alright. Pick a white or just go off the shelf if you want it bright. Bright whites tend to not cover and hide really great, something with a little bit of tint to it may make your life easier in that regard. I'd go matte or eggshell, and maybe go up to satin or semigloss for kitchen and bath if you want the extra washability. If you just have nail holes then yeah just hit those with lightweight spackle before painting and sand if necessary. If your walls are in good shape and aren't currently a higher sheen like a semi gloss, then a quick wipe down should be fine to clean them. Watch out for areas that might need more cleaning and prep like walls in the kitchen that get some splatters, high traffic areas, high touch walls, etc. It's no problem to paint in bite size pieces, just always finish a full wall corner to corner in one go. You always want to maintain a wet edge, if you stop in the middle of a wall and paint back into it the next day to finish you'll probably see it. Go with either gallons or a five, whatever is convenient. If you go single gallons I'd usually say intermix old with new when you reup but if you're just doing white this probably won't be a big deal. Get whatever brushes and rollers the paint you buy works best with. This is where a dedicated paint store would probably get you a better recommendation than the big box. If I was painting over the course of several weekends I'd just wrap my wet brush and roller cover in a plastic grocery bag at the end of they day if I'm doing more painting the next day. If I was done for the weekend I'd toss the roller cover (I hate cleaning them) and clean my brush really well. A good brush that's well taken care of will last the average homeowner for years and many projects.
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Mar 30, 2023 02:42
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Does anyone have good ideas on how to paint conduit? I've got maybe 30ft of 2inch conduit I'd like to paint to match my house. I've done some tests with similar stuff inside my house, and it's taking me one coat of primer and 3-4 coats of paint to achieve decent coverage. I've tried a foam roller, a brush, and a regular paint roller.. none seem particularly effective. Spray paint appears to the best option, but my house color is not available in spray paint. I'm kinda tempted to pick up a cheap paint sprayer just to avoid having to do so many coats while up on a ladder
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Apr 4, 2023 01:56
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Anyone have best practice advice on painting KDAT yellow pine? I know yellow pine isn't the greatest at paintholding, so any advice would be appreciated.
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Apr 4, 2023 02:13
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X-posting this here:Kaiser Schnitzel posted:All the walls in my house have this same texture I really don't love:
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Jul 6, 2023 20:37
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When you do cover the joints, after repairs, I'd recommend FibaFuse tape when you mud. A coat of primer will help if finishing mud isn't sticking to your paint. Test your process in a closet first. Also, I feel like I should mention lead paint. Maybe check for that. Minimize sanding and take precautions if it is.
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Jul 8, 2023 03:26
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Anyone have opinions on paint sheen for a kitchen? I'm re-doing an 8x10 kitchen down to the drywall, and completely replacing the ceiling with new drywall. Should I go semi-gloss everywhere (walls and ceiling), or use a different sheen for either of those surfaces? The kitchen surfaces definitely accumulate oil after several years, so I do need to be able to clean them. We also have a small child, so the usual worries about hand prints and crayons apply. The house is 1961, but the kitchen was repainted at least once with latex, and I'll prime everything first before painting anyhow since I have to do a lot of drywall patching. Topcoat on walls and ceiling will be white of some flavor, and I'll be using our local Dunn Edwards.
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Jan 29, 2024 19:17
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you might want to get a quart of your chosen paint in two different sheens and paint big squares of both on each wall. maybe eggshell and the semi gloss. but it also depends how much light you are getting in the rooms. also there's some options to put on top of it to help with oils and such but I'm sure FBE would know the details.
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Feb 12, 2024 22:02
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Anyone have any experience spraying dryfall? I have a client who's looking for the black industrial ceiling look for their basement. It's about 600sqft of exposed beams, conduit, hvac etc. I'm looking to spray it with dryfall less for its "dryfall-iness" and more for its ability to be used on the multiple substrates. I have a Titan 440 and this would be the first time I've used dryfall and can't sus out a clear answer on whether my sprayer would be able to handle it
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Apr 11, 2024 22:02
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A 440 will move your typical latex dryfall no problem. Your 440 supports up to a .023" max tip and you probably only want a .015" or so for the dryfall. It's good you're not counting on the dryfall characteristics. You probably don't have the ceiling height in a basement for your overspray to dry before settling, you typically need minimum 10' height or more depending on temperature and humidity. What are the substrates you're going over? Edit- oops, you listed what you're going over. Latex dryfall should be good for all that. Treat/spot prime any rust. Commonish issue on hvac ducting is adhesion issues from surface contamination with the oils and poo poo that they can be coated with from the manufacturer. Make sure everything's good and clean and rock and roll. Also, every dryfall job I've ever dealt with the painter uses twice as much as they think they need due to spraying around and over all the ducting and the overspray loss. Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Apr 11, 2024 |
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Apr 11, 2024 23:01
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Awesome, thanks a ton for the info. I've definitely heard that about needing way more dryfall than you would think, so I'll definitely factor that in.
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Apr 12, 2024 02:42
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This stuff is dryfall as well: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/pro-industrial-multisurface-acrylic and from personal experience it sticks to fuckin everything (in a good way) and holds up really well. I rolled it on my extremely nasty shop walls 5 years ago with pretty minimal prep and it's done great.
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Apr 12, 2024 15:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This stuff is dryfall as well: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/pro-industrial-multisurface-acrylic and from personal experience it sticks to fuckin everything (in a good way) and holds up really well. I rolled it on my extremely nasty shop walls 5 years ago with pretty minimal prep and it's done great. I nearly mentioned the same product as well, and yeah fantastic adhesion even with marginal prep, plus dryfall properties. Only reason I didn't was me assuming the OP's client wants flat black for the "industrial" look. I thought eggshell was the lowest sheen in the MSA, but looks like there's matte available now too so that could be a good option as well depending on what the customer wants. Flat dryfall is pretty drat dead flat to hide imperfections, MSA matte will have a bit of sheen to it in comparison.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:24
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