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Windy posted:If you do get a kitten, and said kitten decides that claws are fun for battles and destroying everything, you can always look into SoftPaws. When I read this last sentence I thought you were going to say "you can always look into declawing" and I was about to have a conniption fit haha. Declawing is so so painful (for all their life) for cats, it has many negative aspects, the only positive one is that your furniture is safe. If you care about your furniture so much, then don't get a cat! Simple. (Not saying you didn't know this Windy, I just saw a chance to get on my soap box for a second, and had to take the chance)
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Aug 31, 2007 16:00
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girlscoutdropout posted:When I read this last sentence I thought you were going to say "you can always look into declawing" and I was about to have a conniption fit haha. Declawing is so so painful (for all their life) for cats, it has many negative aspects, the only positive one is that your furniture is safe. If you care about your furniture so much, then don't get a cat! Simple. Actually, I didn't know that years ago when my vet recommended front declawing when I took my cats(now old and fat) in for spay/neuter. I thought "hey, the vet said it's cool, I trust my vet". The first day after I had them back I was in tears because they looked so horrified and in pain. I never went back to that vet again. The worst part is that the only convincing thought in my mind - other than the vet's reassurance - was that I wouldn't have to buy yet another waterbed mattress, as I'd been through 5 at that point. Well, after the declawing I still ended up having to buy 3 more mattresses :/ Make room on that soapbox, for I fully support NOT declawing now! Me and the fatties learned the hard way.
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Aug 31, 2007 17:41
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Do you guys have problems with your rabbits trying to eat you? My rabbit (pictures soon) tries to eat my fingertips.  At first I thought maybe they smelled like food, but I've washed them thoroughly and then let her sniff them and she still nibbles. I know she's not doing it defensively either - I'll just be sitting there and she'll come up to me and start trying to eat my fingers. And I don't think they're love nibbles either, because if I don't pull my fingers away she starts biting harder and it hurts. She doesn't nibble any other body part - just the fingertips. Is this normal? Is there anyway to stop it? I've told her "No" really firmly but we all know how well that works with rabbits. 
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Sep 1, 2007 15:53
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sgocity posted:Do you guys have problems with your rabbits trying to eat you? Have you tried petting her afterwards? Is that what she's wanting? Some bunnies nibble to get attention "Pet me slave!" (because we're all slaves to them haha). Although that's positive reinforcement. One thing you might want to try is cover your hands in dishwashing liquid and let it dry (gross I know). Then when she bites she'll get a nasty taste in her mouth. It works pretty well for furniture legs so I would imagine it would work well on fingers. Just make sure she's not ingesting more that a few licks. Let me know how it works. Edit: Spelling. girlscoutdropout fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Sep 1, 2007 |
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Sep 1, 2007 18:00
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sgocity posted:Do you guys have problems with your rabbits trying to eat you? Mine likes to eat my ankle, but it's mating behavior. I got him neutered but he still does it...vet says it's probably learned behavior and I should just kinda deal with it. But I can't walk around with the bunny out without getting nibbled, kind of annoying. I use a spray bottle to keep him out of places he shouldn't go, like behind the TV. It works, and it's starting to work on the nibbling too. Give that a try?
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Sep 1, 2007 19:14
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Nail in the coffin time here: for drat sure, I would sooner turn Momo into a shelter than leave him at the zoo. The two girl rabbits on display in Small Mammals will soon be off exhibit, I was told this past week. I figured someone was adopting them; this happens a ton, but it's hush hush. Ah, no. They're to be whacked and then frozen and fed out. I can't afford to spay two females, or I'd take them both. As is, I don't even know if anyone -can- adopt/buy them out. With any luck, I can at least take one. Money is the constraint.
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Sep 2, 2007 00:55
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My sister's bunny is very lonely and needs a bunny buddy. The only issue is that she can't fit a bigger cage in her room. What is the minimum cage size for two bunnies to live together in? Would they need more than one litter box? Her bunny is usually outside of its cage when she is at home and awake, so the bunnies would probably be out about 12 hours of the day. His cage is pretty roomy, I guess. I don't know the dimensions offhand but it seems like as long as they were willing to be pretty snuggly they'd be okay. As a bonus, here is a blurry camera phone picture of him on the run behind the entertainment center. 
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Sep 4, 2007 22:56
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CDOR Gemini posted:she can't fit a bigger cage in her room You can't count on bunnies being friendly right off the bat. You have to do introductions which, worst-case, may require several weeks of side-by-side living, necessitating dual cages with duplicate litter boxes, hiding boxes, food bowls, the works. See my post upthread about the bonding technique, including the requirement for alternating free-run time if you have fighters. Once she DOES have them living together, or if she gets lucky and has love at first sight, yes, most pairs do require more space than one. I've NEVER successfully bonded a pair that didn't require a second or at least a larger litterbox. Otherwise, the second rabbit usually sits next to the single box and pees while the first is using it.  A "roomy" cage would be about 4'x4'. An "adequate" cage for that very nice amount of out time would be about 2'x4'. Anything smaller than that is absolutely too small for two rabbits unless they are really out 24-7 and the cage is just where the potty is located. If she can fit a 28"x42" C&C grid cage in her room, she can build upwards and provide plenty of space for two rabbits. I have done a bonding with a divided 28"x42" with a shelf added, and it was cramped but they survived the experience. Once it was expanded to have 3 stories it was a very good sized cage despite the small footprint. It may require some rearrangements on your sister's part but it's well worth it. And dear god buy your sister some cord covers before that poor bunny electrocutes himself.
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Sep 4, 2007 23:12
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Here is Delilah, Rabbit With The Big Ears Who Likes To Eat Everything Sadly, I don't know if I'm going to keep her. I have a feeling that some people might yell at me for not doing more research, but I thought that going to a humane society and talking to the people there *would* be research. The adoption process was a joke. I filled out a generic adoption form, let them xerox my drivers license, then they charged me $16 and gave me some printed handouts from https://www.rabbit.org and sent me on my way. I hadn't bought supplies beforehand, because what if I bought all the supplies then I didn't like the rabbits they had - I'd be stuck with a bunch of rabbit supplies and no rabbit. I assumed that they would hold Delilah for me for at least a couple hours while I went and bought supplies, but they wouldn't. They told me that I should take her home and shut her up in my bathroom while I went out and bought her things. Then I asked them if she was spayed or not, and they said no (she is ~1 year old, they tell me), but as long as I didn't let her interact with a male rabbit, it would be fine. I've since found out that getting her spayed would not only have significant health benefits, but it might curb some of her destructive behaviors as well. As a final note, and I guess this is probably my fault, but a big reason that I thought I could take care of a rabbit is because I just started a new job with a pay increase. But as an instructor, I was used to being on a 9-month salary, and at my new job I'm on a 12-month salary. So even though I'm making more money on a yearly basis, I found out today that I'm actually making *less* money on a month to month basis. I want to keep her, but only if I can take care of her. She is starting to warm up to me - she nuzzled my nose a few nights ago. We'll see. I definitely think she needs to be spayed - I will call a vet soon and see how much that would cost me.Edit: It occurred to me that I didn't actually say what the problem with her is. She is just way more destructive than I thought she'd be. She's pretty good about not biting cords, but she LOVES to rip fibers out of the carpet. At first a stern "No!" would stop her, then she started ignoring me, so I clapped at her. That worked for a while, but then she started ignoring that too. I've started using a spray bottle as another poster suggested, and that is working now, but I'm scared that after a while will stop being effective too. I've given her plenty of other toys to chew on, and she chews on them, but she still likes to tear up the carpet. I have a rug where her cage is, but I can't cover all the carpet. I really feel like she needs to be in an uncarpeted place - like a mudroom or something - until she is either spayed or grows out of this crazy chewing phase. And I can't give her that in my apartment. She also likes to chew on my clothes - and therefore me - and that's just no fun. I have a bruise on my leg where she accidentally chomped me. The only way I've figured out to keep her from doing this is to move away from her when she gets near me. And again, that's no fun. I'm really hoping that spaying her won't be too expensive, and that it will help the chewing. sgocity fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Sep 4, 2007 |
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Sep 4, 2007 23:24
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I'm just posting to gloat about how adorable my bunny is. She seems to like having her nose stroked, and also equates my hand with treats, so she's taken to nudging her head up against my hand whenever i'm sitting and it's within reach. I was going to die from over-cuteness. Except now she's chewing on my stuffed animals. :/ Win some, lose some, I suppose.
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Sep 4, 2007 23:57
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alucinor posted:You can't count on bunnies being friendly right off the bat. You have to do introductions which, worst-case, may require several weeks of side-by-side living, necessitating dual cages with duplicate litter boxes, hiding boxes, food bowls, the works. See my post upthread about the bonding technique, including the requirement for alternating free-run time if you have fighters. This is true, hence the reason I've had 2 5' x 5' circle pens in my bedroom since June.
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Sep 5, 2007 00:11
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sgocity posted:I'm really hoping that spaying her won't be too expensive, and that it will help the chewing. Spaying her will run around $200, most likely. IF you are lucky, you might find a place that does it for $75, but that's uncommon. I pay nearly $200 and that's WITH a rescue discount. Where are you located? I can find you the local HRS branch and you can contact them and see if they have a low-cost S/N program. They might also be able to send a mentor to visit you and to give you some one-on-one coaching and advice. As crucial as spaying is (for the 80% cancer reason if none other), and as likely as it will be to reduce the people-chewing, unfortunately you can't be assured that it will curb the carpet-chewing. These are animals who live on grass, a sea of food. They instinctively reach down to bite at their substrate. I have a 7 year old spayed female who has been fine on carpet for the two years that I've had her - this year she decided that carpet is yum and has gone through 1-2 carpets a month. Plus, she hates to walk on the tile underneath because it makes her slide, so she tears her carpet to shreds and then sits in the corner waiting to be rescued. One family I adopted to was able to figure out the exact places where their bunny liked to chew, and placed seagrass mats (from World Market) on top of the carpet. This helped a lot, although it required daily vacuuming and bi-monthly replacement of the torn squares. You can also try that clear plastic rug protector that they sell at hardware stores - most bunnies prefer to hover around the edges of the room, so you could run lengths along the walls. Is there a kitchen or other large tiled area you could let her have her out time in? She doesn't need the run of the WHOLE house, a 4'x8' space is plenty big for some laps and some binkies. You could use gates to confine her although you may need to run a wall of grids along the baseboards to prevent her from tasting the cupboards. I'm not going to yell at you for not doing more research, but I'll use this as an opportunity to yell at all the lurkers who are being overwhelmed by the fuzzy pictures and are thinking about a rabbit of their own. Rabbits are DIFFICULT pets. They ALWAYS cause problems - behavioral, financial, hygenic, medical, or social. Turn images off, read this drat thread top to bottom and pay attention to the horror stories. Then find a rescue who will tell you the truth about living with a rabbit, will provide ongoing mentoring and support, and will provide a promise to take her back and rehome her if it doesn't work out.
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Sep 5, 2007 15:06
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alucinor posted:Spaying her will run around $200, most likely. IF you are lucky, you might find a place that does it for $75, but that's uncommon. I pay nearly $200 and that's WITH a rescue discount. Where are you located? I can find you the local HRS branch and you can contact them and see if they have a low-cost S/N program. They might also be able to send a mentor to visit you and to give you some one-on-one coaching and advice. I will PM you my location. alucinor posted:Is there a kitchen or other large tiled area you could let her have her out time in? She doesn't need the run of the WHOLE house, a 4'x8' space is plenty big for some laps and some binkies. You could use gates to confine her although you may need to run a wall of grids along the baseboards to prevent her from tasting the cupboards. Unfortunately the only tiled spaces are the kitchen and the bathroom. My bathroom isn't big enough for her cage. My kitchen is big enough for her cage (barely), but the cage would have to go next to the washer and dryer, so I was thinking that probably wouldn't be a good place for it. I suppose I could keep her cage in my living room and then when I'm not using the washer/dryer I could try to herd her into the kitchen and then put up a baby gate or something. But that doesn't sound like that good of a plan. She's not all that easy to herd (I've tried), and like most rabbits she hates being picked up. alucinor posted:I'm not going to yell at you for not doing more research, but I'll use this as an opportunity to yell at all the lurkers who are being overwhelmed by the fuzzy pictures and are thinking about a rabbit of their own. Rabbits are DIFFICULT pets. They ALWAYS cause problems - behavioral, financial, hygenic, medical, or social. Turn images off, read this drat thread top to bottom and pay attention to the horror stories. Then find a rescue who will tell you the truth about living with a rabbit, will provide ongoing mentoring and support, and will provide a promise to take her back and rehome her if it doesn't work out. I agree with this. I might not have mentioned in my other post, but I have had rabbits before, so I knew to an extent what I was getting myself into. My other rabbits weren't nearly as destructive though, and I owned them when I lived at home with my family, so expenses were less of a concern, plus we had a big tiled mudroom where we could keep them. About the "find a rescue who will tell you the truth about living with a rabbit" thing. I know now that the humane society I adopted Delilah not only didn't tell me the things I needed to know, but also told me flat out WRONG information, but I didn't know that at the time. If I had known enough about rabbits to know that they were giving me wrong information, I wouldn't have been asking them for information in the first place. I guess it would have been better to rely on the humane society as a supplementary source of knowledge - to do research on my own as well as talking to them. *sigh* Live and learn. Also: they gave me three days to decide if I wanted to take Delilah back. But it took her more than that just to get used to her surroundings, and she didn't start exhibiting a lot of her behaviors until after that.
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Sep 5, 2007 17:36
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sgocity posted:I suppose I could keep her cage in my living room and then when I'm not using the washer/dryer I could try to herd her into the kitchen and then put up a baby gate or something. But that doesn't sound like that good of a plan. She's not all that easy to herd (I've tried), and like most rabbits she hates being picked up. No, you're right, don't put her cage there, and don't force her to be picked up, but DO herd her over there for free time. You can use grids and zipties to constrict a little highway for her to run in, which folds up nicely for storage once she's out of the way. You can also try to train her that if she runs right into the kitchen she will find a plate of greens waiting, and if she runs right back to her cage she will find some pellets or a craisin. I have a pair I'm working on who are very handshy and we have to use the same setup because they can't play nice with my other rabbits. Only with these two, they have a huge rubbermaid container of a litterbox, and they've learned that if they jump in the litterbox when I come over to the cage, the litterbox magically flies up and transports them to the wonderful kitchen playpen.  Getting them to go back in the cage is more of a challenge so far.sgocity posted:...I have had rabbits before, so I knew to an extent what I was getting myself into... Exactly why you didn't get yelled at. You did the right thing and someone took it as an opportunity to foist their problem off on you. sgocity posted:I guess it would have been better to rely on the humane society as a supplementary source of knowledge - to do research on my own as well as talking to them. *sigh* Live and learn. Again, it's hard for me to fault you here. Seriously, who expects the Humane Society to lie to them about animal care? Who the gently caress expects to have to spend 6 months learning about an animal which is available on every drat corner for $5? NOBODY. That's what makes my job so drat hard. The minimum amount of research and preparation required, is *completely* and *justifiably* unreasonable to the average person. It's only the pain of experience that teaches the crucial message: rabbits are BAD pets unless you have a lot of free time and extra money and are looking for ways to rid yourself of both. You did okay and it's just a shame you had to be one of the ones who gets the hard learning curve. The only thing that could possibly have been a red flag here was them saying "take her even though you don't have any supplies". That sounds a bit like "it fell of the back of a truck and I need to get it out of my garage before my dad comes home."  But as you say, live and learn.
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Sep 5, 2007 21:37
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alucinor posted:Spaying her will run around $200, most likely. IF you are lucky, you might find a place that does it for $75, but that's uncommon. I pay nearly $200 and that's WITH a rescue discount. Where are you located? I can find you the local HRS branch and you can contact them and see if they have a low-cost S/N program. They might also be able to send a mentor to visit you and to give you some one-on-one coaching and advice. $200?! Wow. I had 2 foster bunnies I got neutered for $70 each and that vet does spays for $90. I guess I got lucky. Good luck finding a cheap spay/neuter. I hope everything works out!
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Sep 5, 2007 23:18
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alucinor posted:Spaying her will run around $200, most likely. IF you are lucky, you might find a place that does it for $75, but that's uncommon. I pay nearly $200 and that's WITH a rescue discount. Where are you located? I can find you the local HRS branch and you can contact them and see if they have a low-cost S/N program. They might also be able to send a mentor to visit you and to give you some one-on-one coaching and advice. So I was ripped off if I paid like $500 for checkup, bloodwork, and spaying? I'm a little annoyed by that, but I really like the vet that I took my bunny to -- she seemed very friendly and knowledgeable. Also I'm in NYC so everything rips me off. Or was I just a sucker?
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Sep 6, 2007 00:05
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angelicism posted:So I was ripped off if I paid like $500 for checkup, bloodwork, and spaying? Not necessarily. I called seven HRS recommended vets in my vicinity when I took Murphy in to get neutered. The cheapest ended up being $170. Debbie is going to run me about $350(when I can fit it in the schedule!), but it covers meds, blood work and overnight stay. My vet did tell me that blood work has to be sent out, so keep in mind that - sometimes - when you take the animal in for an overnight procedure, you may end up paying through the nose for expedited work. I've found that prices vary regionally, but I'm not going to drive 3 hours away for a cheaper spay. Plus, I like my vet so I'll pay a slightly higher price out of convenience and positive staff care.
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Sep 6, 2007 00:20
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alucinor posted:informative stuff Have I mentioned that alucinor is awesome? I got my rescue bunny from her and she's just amazing. angelicism posted:So I was ripped off if I paid like $500 for checkup, bloodwork, and spaying? I paid about $300 to get Moblin spayed in Raleigh, NC. I'd say $500 for everything isn't too bad since a checkup usually runs me $50 and blood work upwards of $100 depending on what gets checked. All that stuff added together reaches almost $500. DOOM Rabbit fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Sep 6, 2007 |
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Sep 6, 2007 00:48
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Well I finally got moved in and internets running, and Annie is LOVING the new environment. I have her running free whenever I'm in the room. The old room she was in was a bamboo floor and this new one is carpet so she'll occasionally show off her new traction and jet around. After reading Sgocity's story I am so thankful sh is how she is too. The only thing she seems to tear up are newspapers and the occasional shirt i've left out for her. She doesn't seem interested in my electrical cords at all(and shes had plenty of opportunity to). Frankly she seems to be adjusting to her new home quite well and I'm wondering if I could get her a friend sooner than the recommended month? Oh and just because it's the current subject, she came spayed and was free (normally 5$ but I volunteer at the shelter so she was free). I also happen to be amazingly lucky and my friend works in a vet clinic and if he registers her as "his" bunny, he'll get 90% OFF of all work done. All in all, things are finally working out in bun-world for me. Now to just find an equally cool buddy for Annie 
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Sep 9, 2007 03:28
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Deceptor101 posted:Well I finally got moved in and internets running, and Annie is LOVING the new environment. I have her running free whenever I'm in the room. The old room she was in was a bamboo floor and this new one is carpet so she'll occasionally show off her new traction and jet around. After reading Sgocity's story I am so thankful sh is how she is too. The only thing she seems to tear up are newspapers and the occasional shirt i've left out for her. She doesn't seem interested in my electrical cords at all(and shes had plenty of opportunity to). Frankly she seems to be adjusting to her new home quite well and I'm wondering if I could get her a friend sooner than the recommended month? Oh and just because it's the current subject, she came spayed and was free (normally 5$ but I volunteer at the shelter so she was free). I think the question of getting her a new friend is really up to you. You know Annie's personality and if she seems well-adjusted, I'd go ahead and get her a new friend. Just if there is any doubt that she still might be stressed or anything, I'd wait a little bit.
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Sep 9, 2007 07:01
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What do you know about rabbits and leashes. Initially I was told "No no no!" but since then I have realized that I was told that because when you put a leash on a bunny people what to treat him/her like a dog. I have a very chilled bunny. Nothing seems to really scare him. He doesn't mind being picked up and just nuzzles my chin when I do so. He doesn't mind car rides, in fact he'll jump in my lap and look out the window, then go back to the passenger seat and just sprawl out. I'm assuming he's not freaked out because when bunnies are scared they definitely don't lay down like this:  My question is, is there any real danger to putting a bunny on a leash?
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Sep 9, 2007 15:44
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I don't know much about walking buns, but if you are going to, I'd suggest a harness/walking jacket if you can find a good fit as opposed to a collar/leash. Otherwise, as chill as your bun is, I don't see why it would be a bad thing as long as you are ALWAYS on the lookout for loose dogs, etc. that could rush your bun and maul it.
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Sep 9, 2007 16:24
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If I recall correctly, there's a few people in PI who use harnesses or walking jackets for their buns. You need to let them get used to wearing the thing first before taking them out and about, and I would probably only take my rabbits out to an area I know will be quiet and without many people or other animals around. I'd never actually use a collar and leash, you'd probably have the bun snap it's own neck in panic quite easily.
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Sep 9, 2007 17:30
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My mom's late Mr. Bunn had a small dog harness (big rabbit) and thin 6' leash. I would think that just a collar wouldn't be good because I've seen bunnies wiggle right out of them. We've decided to forgo getting a rabbit right now. As much as we want one, I just can't trust Fern (the beagle) not to scare it to death. So we are going with our second choice, a rat. But I'm confident that bunnies are in our future! Until then, keep the pictures and info coming!
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Sep 9, 2007 21:54
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Yeah I probably should of said that I never would put him in an actual collar. I ended up buying a harness for a small dog (he's a 9lb bunny) and he's wearing it right now, but I can't seem to decide if he's upset about it or not. I think he took out some of his anger by digging in my Victoria's Secret bag and throwing the new undies as far as he could. Actually, he'd do that anyway.
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Sep 9, 2007 23:17
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I have those bungee style harness/leash sets for my rabbits. Debbie doesn't mind it as much as Murphy, he just never looks happy in his harness. I don't take them out anymore because the neighboring building uses pesticides on the lawn, but when I used to have them on my patch of grass by the patio, they seemed to enjoy hopping around and smelling new smells. I never walked them so much as just let them go as far as the leash would let them. Modeling the stylish harnesses:  
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Sep 10, 2007 02:14
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Yeah, Jack hates the harness, it got out of it behind the couch.
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Sep 10, 2007 02:29
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Litter training is so frustrating. She definitely goes just in the litter box in her cage but when she's romping around my room there's so much soft litter-like stuff lying around (I'm a slob, I have piles of clothes everywhere -- I wouldn't mind her playing on them if I wasn't afraid every moment she'd pee on them) and between that and my bed which she can totally jump onto (it's just mats on the floor) I'm constantly on the lookout for peeing behavior. Of course she'll pee the one moment I'm turned around to look at something else or answer the phone or answer an IM. She's made her 4th and final move since I got her, so I'm giving her time to settle before pressing the litter box issue (plus I need to clean my room) but she seems totally comfortable with her new surroundings (my room). She romps and loves to be cuddled, so she seems like a well-adjusted bun. If only she'd stop peeing on my bed. :/
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Sep 11, 2007 02:08
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angelicism posted:Litter training is so frustrating. Tell me about it. Murphy took a few months to train! Debbie appeared trained when I got her - she just knew to use the litterbox for all of her elimination needs. However, there were a few occasions when I had her on my lap or up on the bed where she piddled on me and the bed as well. Depending on the amount of space in your room, you may want to limit her running area with an Xpen or make a pen from those grid cube shelves. Just give her enough room outside the cage to play in with a few toys and an additional litterbox. Increase the area a little each week and watch how she is acting with her potty habits. May or may not work, but it's worth a shot and will keep your bed dry for a while at least.
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Sep 11, 2007 04:21
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Solar Jetman fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2007 05:04
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Windy posted:Tell me about it. Murphy took a few months to train! Debbie appeared trained when I got her - she just knew to use the litterbox for all of her elimination needs. However, there were a few occasions when I had her on my lap or up on the bed where she piddled on me and the bed as well. Depending on the amount of space in your room, you may want to limit her running area with an Xpen or make a pen from those grid cube shelves. Just give her enough room outside the cage to play in with a few toys and an additional litterbox. Increase the area a little each week and watch how she is acting with her potty habits. May or may not work, but it's worth a shot and will keep your bed dry for a while at least. My room is, like, 100 square feet at the absolute most. She seems to love flying leaps across the room so I'd feel terrible about limiting her space smaller than this room. Also she's in her cage most of the day while I'm at work so she really only gets 3-5 hours of runaround time a day in the whole room. I may consider creating a pen for her to stay in all day, though, and then let her out of the pen when I get home.
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Sep 11, 2007 05:04
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Well, it wouldn't be permanent mind you. When bringing the animal into a new surrounding, you really should start with a small area of exploration and increase the space as it becomes familiar with smells and surroundings. If you throw a rabbit into a house and just let it run about freely, you're never going to have any luck establishing boundaries. This will give you ample time to bunny-proof the entire room so that you *can* turn your back without worrying that she may piss on your clothes or eat your wall or something.
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Sep 11, 2007 05:41
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If anyone lives in the Middle Tennessee area, there is a mother, father, and 5 baby bunnies that are at a shelter. The shelter called the lady I help with at her Bunny Rescue, but she is full and can't take them. The shelter doesn't know what to do. The father bunny has already killed two of the babies. They need to be taken out of the shelter and put into foster care asap. If anyone can (or knows someone who can) please email me! emilydeakins at gmail dot com
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Sep 11, 2007 15:33
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Aww I hope those buns find a home! By the way, has anyone really ever noticed their bun sleeping? Do they just take quick bun-naps while we're out of the room? Annie makes noise while I'm sleeping so I assume it's not then, but on my off-work days she seems to be up all day. When do buns generally sleep?
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Sep 11, 2007 22:43
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Deceptor101 posted:Aww I hope those buns find a home! By the way, has anyone really ever noticed their bun sleeping? Do they just take quick bun-naps while we're out of the room? Annie makes noise while I'm sleeping so I assume it's not then, but on my off-work days she seems to be up all day. When do buns generally sleep? I know bunnies are most awake during dawn and dusk. I know with my buns they are most tired around 10am-mid afternoon. The more comfortable a bun gets with the you the more apt they are going to continue sleeping when you walk in the room. When Lucy started doing this (continuing sleeping) it scared me to pieces. She goes into deep sleeps where I've had to "push" her a little bit to wake her up because I was scared she was dead. Jack though always wakes up, although I haven't had Jack as long as I have had Lucy.
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Sep 12, 2007 00:20
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Because we can't keep store-bought cages for more than a few months without deciding we can do better, the boy and I have built another cage, this time for the bunny. We built it out of those wire shelf cube things which happened to be on sale at Target. Add green indoor/outdoor carpet and a mess'o'cable ties, and we got a cage.  I added some of his old litter into his box so it smelled like him and his poop corner. Hope he uses it, he was getting sloppy in his old cage. Also he gets his rhino and shred-rug, not that he uses it.  Side-view, obviously. The cage is situated in a better part of the house for free-roaming, too. Less cables, less nooks. Yay! He went straight for his hide-box, which is to be expected...  I've always had crappy handwriting..I mostly just wanted to cover up the Amazon.Com logo.  One relaxed bunny (with paper near his eye) This is right before I brushed a gently caress-ton of loose hair off him. Yay shedding season.
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Sep 12, 2007 00:51
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Every time I see this thread I read it as "Horse Bunny Fanatics". I also click it every time and am sad to find that there are no "horse bunnies" in this thread. I WANT HORSE BUNNIES!!! <  >
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Sep 12, 2007 02:28
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PeriodCommaColon posted:Every time I see this thread I read it as "Horse Bunny Fanatics". I also click it every time and am sad to find that there are no "horse bunnies" in this thread.
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Sep 12, 2007 05:07
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Doodles posted:Have I got a couple of buns for you: I want those enormous bunnies!
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Sep 12, 2007 05:34
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I just wanted to add in reference to the earlier posts in this thread about the Furminator that I just went out and bought one this week, and I've been really impressed with it so far. Anyone who is still pondering whether it's worth spending the money on one, they're really great. Worth every penny.
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Sep 12, 2007 06:04
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