|
Risita posted:I recently bought a new MP3 player, a SanDisk Sansa, for working out. I drop it once on the gym floor, and now it doesn't work. It either completely refuses to turn on, or says "Locked" even though the "Hold" switch is on the unlocked setting. I've tried changing the batteries and hooking it up to the PC, and neither thing works. The electronics in MP3 players are way too tiny to self-service. If there's no visible damage, you could try to return it with the old 'just stopped working' claim. You should be able to return it anyway since a portable audio device should reasonably be able to to survive a single drop to a non-concrete floor. My Sansa Express has survived multiple drops and assorted abuse. Bonus: cool OLED screen  .
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2007 22:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 11:25 |
|
|
So my computer speakers are the Creative Gigaworks 7.1 surround sound set, which I really enjoy. One problem, my puppy chewed up one of the cables running to a rear satellite, and was wondering what kind of speaker wire could replace it? One end is an RCA jack, while the other is just a pair of wires which clip into the speaker. I don't know what to search for to find a replacement? Any ideas? Thanks again in advance! edit: Pictures if it helps! I want to plug this (bottom right white jack):  into this:  Another picture of the actual wire (large bundle with blue rubber band on top): 
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2007 21:39
|
|
|
Treytor posted:So my computer speakers are the Creative Gigaworks 7.1 surround sound set, which I really enjoy. If you're any good with a soldering iron, this is extremely simple: 1) get speaker wire at local DIY-store (bring the old wire, get about the same thickness) 2) get male RCA plug, solder on. If you don't want to solder, you can do things in reverse and buy a good long RCA cable and cut off one plug. The problem with that is twofold: firstly, you should make sure you get a good, thick cable, since the cheap thin one you'd probably get is too thin to act as speaker wire. The second problem is that this way can be more expensive then the first, especially if you need a long run and you buy your cable from a big chain store. Take this as an opportunity to learn to solder stuff . Repairing your own stuff saves a lot of money, and it's actually fairly easy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2007 07:23
|
|
|
I'm in the market for an A/V receiver that will tie up my consoles, cable, and a desktop PC (audio only) together. However, I'd like to have the desktop PC always play S/PDIF Coaxial audio over the actively selected input. What should I look in the specifications in order to find this capability? Should I even bother with looking or is this a fanciful dream?
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2007 09:21
|
|
|
My speakers are able to pick up radio signals, and then play them very weakly. Thankfully it's too low to hear when I have other music going, but when the music is off it's incredibly annoying. The way I have the speakers set up, the off button is kind of hard to get to, so I'd rather not have to worm my way back there every night. Is there another way to keep my speakers from picking up the radio?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2007 03:13
|
|
|
Reisen posted:My speakers are able to pick up radio signals, and then play them very weakly. Thankfully it's too low to hear when I have other music going, but when the music is off it's incredibly annoying. The way I have the speakers set up, the off button is kind of hard to get to, so I'd rather not have to worm my way back there every night. First hit on google using the terms 'Speakers picking up radio frequency. Solution linked from above.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2007 06:30
|
|
|
We are looking for a small shelf system to play background music or the like in our apartment living room. I am certainly no audiophile and would like to keep the budget under $300 if possible. The only requirement (besides being able to play CDs) is that it have audio in capabilities for plugging in my mp3 player when the mood strikes, as nearly all my music is on my computer. I was looking at bookshelf systems (such as this), but am wondering if such things are even worth the money. What is the best I can do for $200-300 or, if nothing else, what brands should I look for or avoid within that price range? incogneato fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Sep 10, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2007 23:07
|
|
|
I recently bought the Audiophile USB from M-Audio. At the music shop, the guy told me that I would be able to plug in and record my guitar directly via USB. However, I've had quite a bit of difficulty with the product: it picks up my guitar at a very low volume, and I'm starting to think it wasn't really made for guitar recording. I don't know much about this; do I need a preamp? Looking at the specs on the website, it seems like there is no mention of "intrument", except the MIDI connectors. There is, however, the MobilePre USB, which is sold for the same price. For instrument recording, would I be better off with this one? Should I go ask the guy at the music store for a replacement?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 04:13
|
|
|
Cock Soup posted:I recently bought the Audiophile USB from M-Audio. At the music shop, the guy told me that I would be able to plug in and record my guitar directly via USB. However, I've had quite a bit of difficulty with the product: it picks up my guitar at a very low volume, and I'm starting to think it wasn't really made for guitar recording. I don't know much about this; do I need a preamp? Looking at the specs on the website, it seems like there is no mention of "intrument", except the MIDI connectors. You can plug your guitar in and you will get a signal. However... 1) It will be extremely quiet because your guitar outputs a very very low level signal. You will need to apply on the order of 40 to 60dB worth of gain before its even audible. If you apply this gain after the soundcard input stage via a software gainstage this basically means that you will get an overbearing amount of hiss and buzz. It sounds pretty horrid. 2) There is a huge discrepancy in impedance between your guitar output and your soundcard input. It wont bridge. In order to bridge 2 circuits the input load impedance needs to be on the order of 10 times greater than the source. A guitar pickup generally has a very high impedance (typically greater than 200,000 ohms but varies alot depending on signal frequency). A line level mixer input (such as the ones on your soundcard) will have an input impedance on the order of 20,000 ohms. Your problem is that your soundcard input stage has an input impedance that is generally around 10 times less than that of your source when it should be the other way around. This basically means that you will get alot of high frequency loading. The bridge pickup in particular (which picks up more treble) will sound very weak and the overall effect is that the sound seems very bassy and muddy with very little top end. Solutions: 1) You need to run your guitar into a preamplifier to provide on the order of 40 to 60dB of gain before the signal hits your line level soundcard input. 2) You need to run the preamped guitar into a Direct Injection box to form an impedance bridge resulting in maximum voltage transfer. Addressing both of these issues will sort out all of your problems. The simplest solution would be to simply junk your lovely soundcard and get one with instrument level, preamped neutrik inputs. Then its a simply case of plugging your guitar straight into the input and you are ready to go. And yes, MobilePre fits this bill because you can plug straight into the input - it is already preamplified and forms an impedance bridge using a built in DI. You can however get alot better. If you want to stick with M-Audio, Fast Track Pro is loads better. WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Sep 10, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 04:49
|
|
|
Very small question here. I bought a new soundcard with negates the use of the front slots on my PC where I normally plug in my headphones. Is there some kind of audio extender that I can plug into the back of the computer and then plug my headphones into to work?
----------------
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 17:16
|
|
|
IntoTheNihil posted:Very small question here. I bought a new soundcard with negates the use of the front slots on my PC where I normally plug in my headphones. Is there some kind of audio extender that I can plug into the back of the computer and then plug my headphones into to work? You'll need a stereo 3.5mm extension cable, like this one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 17:19
|
|
|
pim01 posted:You'll need a stereo 3.5mm extension cable, like this one. Thanks. What type of stores would have them? I don't feel like paying $30 for next day, haha. ----------------
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 17:21
|
|
|
IntoTheNihil posted:Thanks. What type of stores would have them? I don't feel like paying $30 for next day, haha. You can pick them up at most any electronics store, they're pretty standard. Like all cables, they'll be more expensive at Radioshack et al, though. The big chain stores that sell tvs and stuff will have them as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 17:26
|
|
|
I just recently got a bonus from work. Now, while that may not seem like much of anything, I teach instrumental music in a public school. I have decided to buy myself a really nice stereo system. one worthy of a music nerds collection. I have a couple of ideas on what I want to buy, but I just want to ask you if there are any strong recommendations. I'm looking at spending $1500-2000 dollars or so. Any takers?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 20:07
|
|
|
PhilintheBlank posted:I just recently got a bonus from work. Now, while that may not seem like much of anything, I teach instrumental music in a public school. I have decided to buy myself a really nice stereo system. one worthy of a music nerds collection. I have a couple of ideas on what I want to buy, but I just want to ask you if there are any strong recommendations. I'm looking at spending $1500-2000 dollars or so. Any takers? With that amount of money, you're right in the middle of personal preference country. You could buy a nice Rotel amp and CD player with B&W speakers, which will sound quite different from a Jadis tube-amp with Pro-Ject turntable and Acoustic Research speakers. Both will sound really good, though. So whatever you do, audition at home for a few days before you buy anything. Remember you don't have to buy all the stuff in one go, but try to mix and match what fits your tastes (and your room) best.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 21:09
|
|
|
PhilintheBlank posted:I just recently got a bonus from work. Now, while that may not seem like much of anything, I teach instrumental music in a public school. I have decided to buy myself a really nice stereo system. one worthy of a music nerds collection. I have a couple of ideas on what I want to buy, but I just want to ask you if there are any strong recommendations. I'm looking at spending $1500-2000 dollars or so. Any takers? Is that for the WHOLE system, as in, you don't have any components at all right now? pim01 is right that at your budget, there's much more personal preference options than simply something being better than another, so I will just give some general budgeting advice. With $2000, I'd do $1000 on speakers, $200-300 on amping, $300-400 on pre-amping and $500-600 on a nice source, OR ~$100 on a cheap transport and $400-500 on a good DAC. Are you going digital (CDs) or analogue (vinyl) or both? edit: I also recommend you start with the best bookshelf speakers you can get for $1000. That will satisfy you much more (with music) than say $600 bookshelves and a $400 sub. Save up and down the road you could add a nice sub for music (maybe the $600 - $1000 range) to fill out the lowest of frequencies. edit2: Kind of relating to this, I've got my own speaker inquiry. So I've had my Energy C-9s for almost 5 months now, and I still like them quite a lot. When I first heard them, I was BLOWN AWAY (going from the Insignia bookshelves). Now they still are great, but more and more I find myself thinking "well, they could be a bit better in this regard". Since I'm finally working again, I've decided to go about planning the next step. I'm very much considering getting bookshelves and a nice sub, due to 1) size (the C-9s are HUGE in my small room) and 2) better sound quality for the price vs floorstanders. I listen to or am open to most every kind of music (except for almost anything on top-40 radio stations or pop country) so the speakers should be able to handle anything well and not have a predisposition to any particular genre. Basically, be really neutral, like my DT 880s which I love. I like the C-9s overall signature, except for a few things: 1) The highs can be slightly harsh and sibilant sometimes 2) The mids feel a bit too dry and lack that effortless realism and life I've heard on higher end speakers (like the B&W CM7, oh what nice mids) 3) The mid-bass sounds a bit bloated in the spectrum and a bit boomy 4) Not much sub-bass (this is what the sub will be for though) Now there are things that necessarily aren't bad about them, but I'd like: 1) More precise imaging and positioning (the C-9s aren't bad but I don't quite get that "close your eyes and 'see' the performers in their exact place" thing) 2) More soundstage depth (the Energy's are a bit flat in this regard) 3) Transparency, and for the speakers to "disappear" (I still feel like I'm listening to speakers and not an actual performance with the C-9s) Okay, so it sounds like I want the best speakers there are basically, but I'm going to have to limit my budget to $1,000 - $1,200 for the pair. Used is A-Ok. Can it be done?! I'm fairly set on the sub I want to get, which is the Hsu VTF-2 Mk 3. I don't think I need the beast that is the VTF-3, and the VTF-2 is $200 less. I'm pretty sure that will be all the sub I will need for a LOOOOONG time. Is there anything else in the $500 - $600 range that I should be looking at? Since I hate it when I hear the sub and not the music/movie (know what I mean?) I want to be able to cross it over pretty low to prevent sound localization. Around 60Hz or something. So I'll need to find bookshelves that have a good, flat response that goes pretty low. ANYWAY, here is what's caught my eye: 1) B&W CM1 (Demoed these; very close to what I'm after. I liked the CM7s better: richer and more prominent mid-range, but those are out of my budget unless I could find them used) - $900 new 2) Paradigm Studio 20 (I should demo these since they're in my area) - $950 new 3) Paradigm Studio 40 - maybe within budget if found used? Do they just have more bass than the 20s or is it more qualitative than that? 4) Totem Model-1 Signature - $1,000 - $1,400 used 5) Dynaudio Audience 42 or 52 - $??? 6) Onix Reference 1 - $1,200 or $1,500 depending on finish, new, $700 - $900 used 7) Von Schweikert VR-1 - $995 new, $500 - $700 used Thoughts? Also, I think I'm going to need a new pre-amp that has a sub out so I can put a high-pass filter on the mains to integrate with the sub the best. Any 2-channel pre-amps with sub-outs? Thanks. Pibborando San fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 11, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2007 22:09
|
|
|
I have a 12 ft by 12 ft room where I keep my television and use my computer/do my work. I'd like to setup a surround sound system that can use both my tv/dvd stuff and my computer as a source. The tv and desk where I do my work at are perpendicular to each other, so I'd like it so that depending on source I can select speakers to maintain the proper orientation based on my activity. Is this possible?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2007 01:18
|
|
|
dsh posted:Is this possible? Not that I can think of, no. I was thinking you could have the speakers in each corner of the room, facing in at the same angle, but you've got the center channel to worry about, which is very important and can only come from one place. I'd recommend you do what I do, which is have your computer hooked up to your TV as well as your monitor, so if you want to watch stuff from your computer, you can display it on the TV and use that sound system.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2007 01:33
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:Not that I can think of, no. I was thinking you could have the speakers in each corner of the room, facing in at the same angle, but you've got the center channel to worry about, which is very important and can only come from one place. Are you implying that it's possible neglecting the center channel? For music I only need/want two speakers and a sub. edit: I'm planning on building two more of those home built speakers from TyroneShoes thread, his center channel and I'm not sure what sub.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2007 06:37
|
|
|
IntoTheNihil posted:Very small question here. I bought a new soundcard with negates the use of the front slots on my PC where I normally plug in my headphones. Is there some kind of audio extender that I can plug into the back of the computer and then plug my headphones into to work? What you really want to do is open your computer and trace the wires from your front panel connector, unplug them from your motherboard and plug them into your new soundcard.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2007 12:20
|
|
|
I need some quick advice on an impending 5.1 system purchase--the Cerwin Vega CVHD 5.1. I found it (brand new, unopened) on craigslist for $300. Good use of $300? I'm on a pretty tight budget, that's about the max I want to spend for speakers, it's really this and a Panasonic SA-XR55S or one of the Onkyo 7.1 HTIBs. Anyway, any advice/suggestions would be welcome...
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2007 23:03
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:Also, I think I'm going to need a new pre-amp that has a sub out so I can put a high-pass filter on the mains to integrate with the sub the best. Any 2-channel pre-amps with sub-outs? If you put the crossover point on the sub at the spot where your mains of choice fall below +/- 6dB (or a bit below), you won't really need a high-pass filter, will you? I'm kind of lucky because I've got professional gear for work, but when installing stuff for friends I usually find out the best crossover frequency with a dB(SPL) meter. Just make a nice, long, descending sine-sweep to test with .
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 07:39
|
|
|
pim01 posted:If you put the crossover point on the sub at the spot where your mains of choice fall below +/- 6dB (or a bit below), you won't really need a high-pass filter, will you? I'm kind of lucky because I've got professional gear for work, but when installing stuff for friends I usually find out the best crossover frequency with a dB(SPL) meter. Just make a nice, long, descending sine-sweep to test with Well, yeah, that's a perfectly reasonable way of doing things, BUT by cutting off the extreme lows that my power amp and main speakers see, I should get more clarity as the little bookshelf midwoofers won't be straining themselves with the sub-bass stuff. This will help control bloat around the main/sub crossover point and I think give a more transparent and solid feel down into the super lows. I was taking a look at a SVS woofer and noticed something. For subs that have a stereo RCA input and output... is the outputted signal everything above whatever you set the low cutoff to on the sub? That would be handy. Then the sub could just act as the high pass filter and I could run the output from that to my power amp. Am I incorrect? I guess it could just be a straight pass-through, but that would make me mad. edit: These are my front runners for mains ATM. The Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1. I've been swayed by some amazing sounding reviews and that natural bamboo looks hot. The only thing is they may have MORE bass than what I want, especially with a sub, but again, a high pass would take care of that, or maybe I could try plugging the ports. I'm still going to demo the CM1, Studio 20 and RC-10, just because they're in my area, but those Ascends are looking nigh unbeatable for the price. edit2: I also really like the looks of these StudioTech SP-24 speaker stands. Anyone know of any other good options in the ~$100 range? Pibborando San fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 07:57
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:Well, yeah, that's a perfectly reasonable way of doing things, BUT by cutting off the extreme lows that my power amp and main speakers see, I should get more clarity as the little bookshelf midwoofers won't be straining themselves with the sub-bass stuff. This will help control bloat around the main/sub crossover point and I think give a more transparent and solid feel down into the super lows. Looking at the SVS subs, it seems that the passthrough on the back is a real passthrough, and is not filtered. I couldn't say for sure though, their site goes on about hand crafted this and exclusive that, but is a bit sparse on this point. What you could do, I suppose, is buy a seperate crossover. It's basically a simple filter, so there should be hifi versions somewhere. I've only worked with studio ones - they tend to be 19" models, though. It's also another noise-source in your signal path (especially if you buy a cheap one). Those Ascends look really good - with a good frequeny response down to 40 Hz you'll get a lot of bass from them, even without the sub. Now you've got me curious - I think I'll pop by my hifi dealer somewhere today and ask his opninion.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 09:02
|
|
|
The only consumer filter I've seen is the Hsu high pass filter. It looks like a good solution, but at $100, just wondering if there were cheaper options. I've seen passive ones like these, which would go between my pre-amp and power amp line-in. I think the 65Hz one would be best BUT they're only 1st order, so I don't know how much of a difference they'd make.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 14:42
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:The only consumer filter I've seen is the Hsu high pass filter. It looks like a good solution, but at $100, just wondering if there were cheaper options. Not much. First order bandpass filters attenuate with ~3dB per octave. Looking at the frequency response chart, there's already a higher-order filter in place. You've got a sharp attenuation going on down from about 50 Hz (about 18 dB attenuation going from 20 to 10 Hz). An extra first-order filter wouldn't do too much. edit: I mean, look at this beautiful curve. No need for extra filters, as far as I'm concerned. 
pim01 fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 15:27
|
|
|
I just bought a fancy new HDTV and have it hooked up to my older stereo via RCA. I noticed when watching the antenna, that I was only getting sound on the stereo from the non-HD channels. There are some sound settings locked out when I'm on an HD channel. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to buy more stuff? The TV is an Insignia NS-LCD32.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 16:22
|
|
|
Quote is not edit  Might as well give a useless answer to this, then: TedNugent posted:I just bought a fancy new HDTV and have it hooked up to my older stereo via RCA. I noticed when watching the antenna, that I was only getting sound on the stereo from the non-HD channels. There are some sound settings locked out when I'm on an HD channel. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to buy more stuff? The TV is an Insignia NS-LCD32. Sounds like an issue with the HD channels. Maybe there's some kind of lockout going on, to close the analog gap (avoiding digital encryption by recording from an analog source). My guess would be you need to use some form of digital out, coupled with a receiver that can decode the signal. Keep in mind I know virtually nothing about this HD crap, so don't listen to me. pim01 fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 16:32
|
|
|
pim01 posted:I mean, look at this beautiful curve. No need for extra filters, as far as I'm concerned. It is a nice, smooth falloff, BUT the amp is still amping and sending all that low freq power (below 50Hz lets say) to the speakers and they're still trying to make sound with it. I want to high pass the signal before it gets to the amp so neither it nor the speakers are even fretting about that subsonic stuff, which should improve the clarity of the sound. I found these Harrison Labs FMOD filters, which are second order (the Hsu sub uses a second order low pass). I think the 70Hz one would be perfect. Am I just being a whiny bitch? Maybe, but they're only $30, so I think I will at least give 'em a try.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 19:47
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:I found these Harrison Labs FMOD filters, which are second order (the Hsu sub uses a second order low pass). I think the 70Hz one would be perfect. "These may be combined to produce 24db per octave slopes if a 3db attenuator is used between them. Keep in mind that two equal value FMOD high pass modules will increase the slope to 24db per octave and the crossover point will be double the FMOD value" If you buy two 30 Hz ones and combine them, you'll end up with a nice 60 Hz crossover. -24 dB at 30Hz would be quite nice. If you use only one, it looks like you only get -3dB/octave, which isn't really all that usefull.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 20:01
|
|
|
pim01 posted:"These may be combined to produce 24db per octave slopes if a 3db attenuator is used between them. Keep in mind that two equal value FMOD high pass modules will increase the slope to 24db per octave and the crossover point will be double the FMOD value" Now I'm just confused about these things. It says on the summary page "FMOD High Pass Crossover Pairs Slope finalizes at 12db per octave RED label". What does "finalizes at 12db per octave" mean? I'm confused because in the description it then says "-3db" but how would combining two -3db per octave filters get you to -24db per octave? I like that combining idea though, but why is a 3db attenuator needed?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 20:29
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:Now I'm just confused about these things. It says on the summary page "FMOD High Pass Crossover Pairs Slope finalizes at 12db per octave RED label". What does "finalizes at 12db per octave" mean? I'm confused because in the description it then says "-3db" but how would combining two -3db per octave filters get you to -24db per octave? I'm a bit stumped as well. 12 dB per octave sounds more reasonable (although I've no idea what "finalizes" would mean in this context). so then "Fixed crossover point (-3db) high pass" would mean there's 3 dB of attenuation at the crossover point. That does seem reasonable as well (as 3dB attenuation means half the energy in the lineair sense, so that would be where you start to notice attenuation). What remains, then, is the apparent neccessity for a 3dB attenuator. When placing filters in series, you can just add the frequency responses, so 12+12 should be just 24. No need for an extra attenuator. Maybe they're not telling us something about the product, or they're just trying to make some extra cash .
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 21:18
|
|
|
Quote != edit, again
pim01 fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 21:22
|
|
|
pim01 posted:so then "Fixed crossover point (-3db) high pass" would mean there's 3 dB of attenuation at the crossover point. That does seem reasonable as well (as 3dB attenuation means half the energy in the linear sense, so that would be where you start to notice attenuation). Fixed that spelling for ya, and I think this is probably correct. A -24dB per octave slope from 60Hz sound pretty much awesome, so I think this will be the direction I go when I actually can afford the woofer. pim01 posted:Quote != edit, again Having some trouble with the whole posting thing today? I'm going to assume that the "need" for a 3dB attenuator isn't a need at all. Why would I want to make everything half as loud? Pibborando San fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 21:31
|
|
|
oh my god, now I'm having posting issues.
Pibborando San fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Sep 12, 2007 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 21:33
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:Fixed that spelling for ya, and I think this is probably correct. A -24dB per octave slope from 60Hz sound pretty much awesome, so I think this will be the direction I go when I actually can afford the woofer. Pfft, I'm way too tired today and probably shouldn't be posting (linear is 'liniair' in Dutch, that's probably the source of that superfluous i). Time for bed. Good luck with your new system - with those Ascends and that sub, you'll get some fantastic sound! I'm jealous.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 21:54
|
|
|
Can I get a recommendation for a sub around the $250-$300 range? I have a Onkyo SR674 and I generally use my system to play more music than movies.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2007 23:38
|
|
|
omgwtfnoway posted:Can I get a recommendation for a sub around the $250-$300 range? I have a Onkyo SR674 and I generally use my system to play more music than movies. How big is your room? If it's smaller than like 20'x30' or something big like that, I think the Hsu STF-1 would be great. For $274 w/ shipping right now, I don't think you'll find a better 8" sub, or a better sub for the price. edit: And what are your mains?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2007 02:07
|
|
|
Pibborando San posted:How big is your room? If it's smaller than like 20'x30' or something big like that, I think the Hsu STF-1 would be great. For $274 w/ shipping right now, I don't think you'll find a better 8" sub, or a better sub for the price. Mains right now are Polk Audio Monitor 50s and the room size is about 15x18.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2007 05:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 11:25 |
|
|
I was hoping there was a thread like this. 1) Do you need good speakers in order to enjoy DTS vs DD 5.1? ex: Would you notice the difference if you had your DVD player going into a receiver and then your TV speakers using DTS audio or would you need quality stand alone speakers to notice? 2) Polk Audio speakers, are they any good when compared to Axiom, B&W, Energy, Paradigm & PSB? 3) How are Harmon Kardon receivers compared to Denon, Marantz, NAD & Onkyo? 4) When did Futureshop start stocking Energy speakers? Is this recently? 5) When viewing DVD's on a TV should you use the 2.0 soundtrack (if available)?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2007 14:31
|
|
