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TheSwift.CC
May 8, 2003

Guess?

TooLShack posted:

Sure you can, but I think you are being a bit silly. With cars getting heavier and heavier a addition of around 200 pounds is not that bad. After I lost my 2000 SE to a wreck I decided to get a NC because of the side air bags. My NC feels a lot faster than my NB and I really like how the top works. The suspension is a bit softer but I only have the touring edition so it does have the sports suspension pack on it. I think the NC is a great car and is respectful to the Miata line.

Wow, side airbags? I think I might be sold on the NC. Does the headunit come with an AUX input?

Edit: Oh god, a 2008 MX-5 Touring with Suspension package is WELL within my budget....

TheSwift.CC fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Oct 11, 2007

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TooLShack
Jun 3, 2001

SMILE, BIRTHDAY BOY!
Mine doesn't but there are factory Ipod adapters.


Also, NC vs NB daily driving, both are fine. I'm a big fat guy(6'4 260), so I enjoy the more room in the NC. The 2000 SE interior was amazing so the the NC's touring interior is a bit of a step down. But a sport or grand touring have amazing interior. I almost bought a Grand Touring but found a lower mileage touring for less.

SCOTT SMAGO
Aug 10, 2003
How easy is it to lower the seat/perform a foamectomy on an NB?

vex
Oct 18, 2002

TurboThather fan club President. LOL DSM
My NB foamectomy took about an hour and a half, bullshitting with a friend. Zipties instead of the hog rings made putting the cover back on easy.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

vex posted:

I love how there's a pack of Miata driving faggots in that thread trying to defend the car. Do you morons not understand the internet?

Mad props to meatpimp for defending the Miata's honor in helldump.

Kind of pointless, but he tried. :v:

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
I've been looking at Miatas on and off for quite a while. I'm about 6'1" 180-ish, so I've been curious as to if I'd fit. I know a lot depends on leg length vs. torso length, but I've never had a chance to sit in an NB(which I like more than the As and Cs).

I sat in an NC retractable hardtop at a carshow to ballpark it about six months or so ago and the legroom was great(slightly less than my T-bird, but more than my mom's Bonneville :wtf: ), but I only had the thickness of my hand's worth of headroom.

I consider you guys to be quasi-Miata experts so my question is this: How's the headroom on the NB compare to that of the NC?

TooLShack
Jun 3, 2001

SMILE, BIRTHDAY BOY!
I have a bit more room in my NC than the NB, remember that you sat in a PHT NC, which might not have as much headroom as a standard NC.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

leica posted:

Mad props to meatpimp for defending the Miata's honor in helldump.

Kind of pointless, but he tried. :v:

Yeah, "Miatas are gay" reeks of :effort:

Kinda like the attention I've given to my Miata this year. It's seen about 10 miles, other than the 100 it spent on a trailer when I brought it to our new house. Now it's sitting under a cover, waiting for next spring.

GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl

meatpimp posted:

Yeah, "Miatas are gay" reeks of :effort:

Kinda like the attention I've given to my Miata this year. It's seen about 10 miles, other than the 100 it spent on a trailer when I brought it to our new house. Now it's sitting under a cover, waiting for next spring.

I think you need to find it a better home. In my driveway.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I might be selling mine pretty soon. We'll see.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Q: What's the gayest thing you can do with a Miata?

A:

Wrar posted:

I might be selling mine pretty soon. We'll see.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
Q: What is the gayest thing you can do?

A:

Amir posted:

I think you need to find it a better home. In my driveway.

:v:

GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl

Wrar posted:

I might be selling mine pretty soon. We'll see.

Wrong side of the country :sigh:

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
So here's my question. I posted this in "Questions about a Performance Miata" before this thread was created. My guess is it's not going to get answered there now that it does.

I've got a '91 Miata. No options. No power steering, no A/C, no power anything, and definitely no LSD. So I read through this, and I do want to get around to upgrading my Miata. So after reading this, the natural progression seemed to be: Differential, Turbo, Exhaust, Suspension.

My reasoning being this: Before upgrading the suspension, you want to make sure that a brace will fit around your exhaust. Before an exhaust, you want to get your turbo, this just based on the fact that Flyin' Miata differentiates between a turbo exhaust and a normally aspired one. Before getting a turbo, I want to change out my differential with a 1.8 so I don't screw mine up.

So I started to put my foot in today, and went to a differential service shop that I heard about from a shop that I've done good business with in the past. They seem to be a pretty good shop. When I mentioned that I had a Miata, they lit up and talked about a few Miata's they'd serviced in the past, although they were a little too hyped up about the V8 Miata they serviced for my taste. Apparently they've serviced a rotary Miata which sounds interesting, though. Well, anyhow. When I mentioned that I'd like to change out my differential with a 1.8L LSD, they understood and said they'd never done anything like that with a Miata. They said they'd call around and see what they could get ahold of, and gave me the "parking lot of a ballpark of a price" range of 1000-2000 dollars.

I really don't know anything about differentials, and I've only done routine maintenance on cars myself. So I'm not too sure I feel comfortable doing the swap myself (I found a pretty good guide on Miata.net) since I really don't know anything about differentials, and it doesn't seem too simple. But is the price right? How much would it cost me to get the part myself? It seems really pricey, although I can understand why, but I'm a little uneasy about spending 2000 on changing the differential on a 2400 dollar car. But I have to start somewhere, sometime, right? And I doubt that anything but the exhaust is really going to be much cheaper.

I don't know. Can I get some advice? I'm a moron. I know very little about cars, in reality. Is my idea of upgrade progression in a correct order? Is the ballpark price fair? Should I try doing this myself? Is getting a "Turbo" exhaust without a turbo going to cause less efficiency, or is the Turbo exhaust just built to handle more?

(For those of you who read it, I went and test-drove a Porsche 944. And I think I'll pass.)

umm ok
Jul 21, 2007
My recently acquired '97. Peace at last. Close-up and then post lowering shot from afar.


E: nevermind... I'm image challenged.

GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl

amadeo posted:

Torsen LSD upgrade

Here's a price breakdown:

Differential $550.00
Drive shaft $125.00
Rear shafts $250.00

Total: $925.00

Don't forget labor costs. The quoted price seems a bit high -- I'd say somewhere around $1300 - $1500 is an alright price. It's not an easy job but it's not as labor-intensive as dropping a transmission.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

amadeo posted:

Differential questions.

There are a couple parts to the diff swap. Easiest way to do it is to swap the differential carrier, along with the axles and driveshaft. It took me a few hours when I did it to my '92, with the biggest problem being an axle that had nearly seized in the hub.

Make sure you get the axles from the same year (preferably the same car) as the donor of the differential. I'd say 300-500 in labor would be reasonable at a shop. The diff with axles I've seen anywhere from $400-1000. So, if you do the work yourself, you could do it for $400 or so, up to $1500 to have a shop do the work.

I'm sure a number of shops would charge MUCH more than that, but it's really not a lot of work. Know that on the front end.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

amadeo posted:

Is getting a "Turbo" exhaust without a turbo going to cause less efficiency, or is the Turbo exhaust just built to handle more?

(For those of you who read it, I went and test-drove a Porsche 944. And I think I'll pass.)
The turbo exhaust without a turbo attached is going to be loud as gently caress due to the fact that it is designed knowing that a turbo is attached to it and muffling the exhaust.

heyou
Dec 30, 2004
Mr. Green....Gesundheit.
About how much would a new windshield for a miata cost? I've got a '97, and one day after parking it in the lot at work, I came out after work to find a hand sized star on the driver's side.

Also, I'm a little scared of doing my timing belt/water pump by myself. Anything to make the job a little easier?

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
Okay, so do keep in mind I don't have any idea of what I'm talking about.

Amir suggests that parts are going to run me 925, and meatpimp suggests 400. Big price gap :crossarms:. Are we talking the axles are going to be 400 more? I assume that I'm not going to get them with the differential. Is this a job that someone as inexperienced as I am could do within a day, or over a weekend's time? (I live with my wife, and my friend. We each have a car. We each have jobs - It's not an easy thing to not have a car for even a few days.)

Where would I buy a differential from a 1.8L? Is it safe to buy a used differential, maybe from a parted out car?

And finally, because of the bulk price of this upgrade, I would like to put it off for a little while, but I'd still like to upgrade my car soon. Is putting a turbo in my car without changing the differential going to kill it? Thanks for the answer on the exhaust systems. And thanks for the differential swap info so far.

Sorry for being repetitive, I'm just very intimidated by this differential problem because I simply don't know much about it. I'm learning, and I appreciate any help you can give me while I do so.

amadeo fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Oct 12, 2007

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

amadeo posted:

Okay, so do keep in mind I don't have any idea of what I'm talking about.

Amir suggests that parts are going to run me 925, and meatpimp suggests 400. Big price gap :crossarms:. Are the axles going to be more? I assume that I'm not going to get them with the differential. Is this a job that someone as inexperienced as I am could do within a day, or over a weekend's time? (I live with my wife, and my friend. We each have a car. We each have jobs - It's not an easy thing to not have a car for even a few days.)

There's a difference because there can be a huge gap in the cost of the parts. Re-read my post, I didn't say 400, 400 was the low part of the range. It depends on what parts you find and when.

quote:


Where would I buy a differential from a 1.8L? Is it safe to buy a used differential, maybe from a parted out car?

https://www.car-part.com is a good place to start, also check miata.net classifieds, local miata clubs, etc. They are popular parts, it's best to find someone selling something that they don't recognize the value of.

Pretty safe buying used, the Torsen LSDs have proven just about indestructable up to about 280-300whp.

quote:

And finally, because of the bulk price of this upgrade, I would like to put it off for a little while, but I'd still like to upgrade my car soon. Is putting a turbo in my car without changing the differential going to kill it? Thanks for the answer on the exhaust systems. And thanks for the differential swap info so far.

Won't hurt at all. The stock 1.6l open differentials have taken turbo abuse for years and are ok... they can and do break, but even if they do, you were planning on replacing the diff, anyway. :v:

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
Thanks for all the information, it's really helped. I'll be debating whether or not to put a turbo in or get the differential changed first, and let you all know when I do either.

OptimusMatrix
Nov 13, 2003

ASK ME ABOUT MUTILATING MY PET TO SUIT MY OWN AESTHETIC PREFERENCES
Heres my 2000 NB with 40k miles on it.

Ize
Aug 1, 2006

Savington posted:

They are +40 Nickels. The finish changes depending on the light; I can make them look near-chrome or practically gunmetal. The finish is a high-gloss silver that's hand-sprayed with a VERY fine layer of gloss black to produce the smoky look. I was on the fence when I ordered them between silver (not blingy enough) and black (too blingy), and when I saw that finish I fell in love. :swoon:

Ah, OK. Any idea when they're gonna do another run of the +40's? Also, what tires are those; RS2's? How are they?

PancakeTransmission
May 27, 2007

You gotta improvise, Lisa: cloves, Tom Collins mix, frozen pie crust...


Plaster Town Cop
Oh man, do I have a bizarre problem. Driving a '90 MX5, it's Right Hand Drive (Australian). While driving the other day, whenever I would turn corners, water would spray (it would make a slight hissing noise) into the passenger side footwell. Coming from under the dash, behind the glove box, bit hard to describe. Near the fan that's under there.

It would do it more if I turned left (tilting the car towards the passenger side). In the engine bay, the A/C pipes lead into the car on the passenger side, so maybe it is one of those. Maybe it's the A/C water drain being broken or something? I honestly don't know. On the saturday (when it started doing it), I turned off my A/C. On my short sunday drive to the shops it still did it a little, and I didn't drive it again till today, when no more water came out. A/C is still off. My wiper reservoir is also empty but I really doubt that it's the cause.

My Girlfriend said the water was cold when it came out. It was mostly clean, the dirt I saw could have just been from the floor mat.

I just now did some googling and found this for a different model Mazda : "water leaking into passenger-side foot well due to deformed rubber seal at bottom of evaporator case"

Could this be it? How hard is it to replace (in terms of finding the seal, access to evaporator case)?

Anyway, I found that helldump thread hilarious.

Blooot
Mar 19, 2001

I was in LA on business yesterday and was offered keys to a Chevy Cobalt at the Hertz counter. I made a look of displeasure and was instead offered an NC for an additional $10 for the day. It was automatic of course with shift paddles on the wheel. Having driven a couple of terrible manu-matics (Acura TL and Lexus IS250), I wasn't expecting much. But to my surprise my first pull away from Bob Hope Airport lead the engine up to redline (7500rpm I think), in first and it just bounced there. Wow! Turns out that they programmed it to never upshift unless instructed -- excellent. And it automatically down shifted only when the car might stall, or when you punched the throttle in 5th or 6th (I assume this is a safety feature for automatic drivers who would otherwise forget to downshift when trying to power out of a scary situation). It shifted fairly quickly up and down, and in the end was the best automatic car I have ever driven (not saying much, but it was a rental).

The car drove beautifully too -- I had an extra couple of hours after getting done what I was sent there for and I managed to get most of the way down Topanga Canyon road from the 101. Lots of fun 2nd and 3rd gear corners. I didn't make it all the way to the PCH, but I got a good taste for the car and had a nice time driving it.

It should be said that I have never driven an NA or NB, so I can't make any comparisons.

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.

Ize posted:

Ah, OK. Any idea when they're gonna do another run of the +40's? Also, what tires are those; RS2's? How are they?

Never. The +36 he produced alongside it is useable in more applications, so for the second run recently and the third run in January he's only producing a +36. The January run will also feature the first 15x7 6ULs, both +27 offsets, in either 13.1lbs for Spec Miata use or 11.4lbs for other use.

Tires are 225/45-15 Hankook RS-2s, and they are fantastic. Great wet traction, great dry traction, stand up to track use beautifully, and I'm slated to get about 12,000 miles out of them, 85% street/15% track. They are so good, the guy who makes and sells the 6ULs has cleaned out the entire national inventory of that tire twice now, on just pre-ordered wheel/tire packages.



Water leakage in the passenger footwell is the A/C. Not too hard to get to; just remove the glovebox and it's pretty obvious. A search on Miata.net will get you further.

Ize
Aug 1, 2006

Savington posted:

Never. The +36 he produced alongside it is useable in more applications, so for the second run recently and the third run in January he's only producing a +36. The January run will also feature the first 15x7 6ULs, both +27 offsets, in either 13.1lbs for Spec Miata use or 11.4lbs for other use.

Are there fitment issues with the +36? The site seems to say there may be. Sorry for the 21 questions.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Can we have a little chat about tops for the Miata? My top has completely poo poo the bed, but I have a hardtop to last me through the winter. I use my softtop maybe 5-10 times a year when it rains. So, I really need about the cheapest top available, but I don't want to have to pull my hair out installing it.

I've read that you can get the robbins tops with the rain rail already put on? What is the best option for ease of install and cost. Frankly, I'd rather pay more for an easy to install top.

How long does it take an average person to put a top on? How much should I expect to pay in labor to have a top put on. I'm a cheap bastard, but I really don't want to take on a project that will drive me crazy.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

n8r posted:

I've read that you can get the robbins tops with the rain rail already put on? What is the best option for ease of install and cost. Frankly, I'd rather pay more for an easy to install top.

How long does it take an average person to put a top on? How much should I expect to pay in labor to have a top put on. I'm a cheap bastard, but I really don't want to take on a project that will drive me crazy.

Most people I've talked to, including people who have installed their own tops, have said to get tops done professionally. When I got my top replaced, I bought a Robbins one piece vinyl glass top and it's great, although a plastic window is cheaper. After seeing the work and "tuning up" of the top that the shop did, I'm glad I had it installed by pros. I bought the top itself for around $400, and it was another $500 to get it installed (Seattle area, was about the going rate, but I didn't go to the cheapest place). I had to pay 5.25 hours in labor I think, but the shop actually took nearly 6 to do it. And these are pros who have done it many times before. Now imagine yourself trying to figure it out for the first time and get it all exactly right. The one-piece tops are a bit more of a complicated process than the factory style, or cheaper knock-off styles.

Granted, it can be done DIY, as well. But I've read you need to set aside a very long day, or a weekend to do it on your own. Also, you need to be extremely patient. The amount of time and frustration it would have involved wasn't worth it to me, so I paid to have it done absolutely perfect for me.

I highly recommend the Robbins tops, though. They have several different styles, and the quality of mine is as good or better than the factory top. Plus having a glass window is absolutely tits. Plastic windows loving suck. And the one piece design is pretty sweet as well. So much more convenient than the zipper crap.

Guinness fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Oct 12, 2007

User Error
Aug 31, 2006

n8r posted:

Can we have a little chat about tops for the Miata? My top has completely poo poo the bed, but I have a hardtop to last me through the winter. I use my softtop maybe 5-10 times a year when it rains. So, I really need about the cheapest top available, but I don't want to have to pull my hair out installing it.

I've read that you can get the robbins tops with the rain rail already put on? What is the best option for ease of install and cost. Frankly, I'd rather pay more for an easy to install top.

How long does it take an average person to put a top on? How much should I expect to pay in labor to have a top put on. I'm a cheap bastard, but I really don't want to take on a project that will drive me crazy.

A friend and I put on a cheap ebay top in about 3 hours.

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.

Ize posted:

Are there fitment issues with the +36? The site seems to say there may be. Sorry for the 21 questions.

Not with the type of camber you should be running with 15x8s, usually between 1.5 and 2 degrees. I actually wish I had +36s; it would let me run some more camber in the front (I want to run 2.7/2.4).

Ize
Aug 1, 2006

Savington posted:

Not with the type of camber you should be running with 15x8s, usually between 1.5 and 2 degrees. I actually wish I had +36s; it would let me run some more camber in the front (I want to run 2.7/2.4).

Thanks for the answers. I'm planning on snagging a set the day I actually take possession of a Miata(gonna be a while). Can I hit you up on AIM when that happens? I've got some other questions and I don't want to clutter up the thread.

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

PancakeTransmission posted:

Oh man, do I have a bizarre problem. Driving a '90 MX5, it's Right Hand Drive (Australian). While driving the other day, whenever I would turn corners, water would spray (it would make a slight hissing noise) into the passenger side footwell. Coming from under the dash, behind the glove box, bit hard to describe. Near the fan that's under there.

It would do it more if I turned left (tilting the car towards the passenger side). In the engine bay, the A/C pipes lead into the car on the passenger side, so maybe it is one of those. Maybe it's the A/C water drain being broken or something? I honestly don't know. On the saturday (when it started doing it), I turned off my A/C. On my short sunday drive to the shops it still did it a little, and I didn't drive it again till today, when no more water came out. A/C is still off. My wiper reservoir is also empty but I really doubt that it's the cause.

My Girlfriend said the water was cold when it came out. It was mostly clean, the dirt I saw could have just been from the floor mat.

I just now did some googling and found this for a different model Mazda : "water leaking into passenger-side foot well due to deformed rubber seal at bottom of evaporator case"

Could this be it? How hard is it to replace (in terms of finding the seal, access to evaporator case)?

Anyway, I found that helldump thread hilarious.

I had this exact problem and it was just some clogged drain hoses and such in the AC system. Just have a shop clean it out.

iscariot
Oct 7, 2001

n8r posted:

tops

I just did my top 2 months ago or so. Robbins, vinyl, zip out window, rain rail attached.

12 hours later, I will *gladly* pay someone else to do that job in the future. It's not overly difficult, but hard to do it 'right'. My supercharger was easier to install. A timing belt is easier to install. The rollbar (which was mostly in the way of doing the install) was still easier to install than the drat top.


My question:

My dad bought a 96 with 240k miles on the chassis, ~100k on the engine. Looks like the first gear syncro has poo poo the bed (after we replaced the clutch slave cylinder, and change the gear oil). It won't stay in first gear unless you downshifted into it, and will pop out violently if you manage to force it in.

So we're trying to hunt down a new tranny. Does anyone know if the 90-93's will mate up cleanly? I know the clutch/flywheels are different. Are the ratios the same in the 1.6's as the 1.8's?

And the bragging part - paid $1500 for it.

iscariot fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Oct 12, 2007

Schwack
Jan 31, 2003

Someone needs to stop this! Sherman has lost his mind! Peyton is completely unable to defend himself out there!
Is it overly difficult to swap in a LSD to a non-LSD 1.8l Miata? Im looking into buying a 94, but can almost NEVER find one with the options I need. At this point I want to know a) how tough is it to track down an OEM (or better for similar cost) LSD unit and b) how difficult the install is.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Schwack posted:

Is it overly difficult to swap in a LSD to a non-LSD 1.8l Miata? Im looking into buying a 94, but can almost NEVER find one with the options I need. At this point I want to know a) how tough is it to track down an OEM (or better for similar cost) LSD unit and b) how difficult the install is.

How are you having such a hard time locating a 94 with an LSD? Every package except the base came with the Torsen.

Anyway, all said and done the parts for a Torsen swap will run almost $1000. If you can't do the labor yourself, except another $500 or so on that.

Boxbot
Jul 4, 2007

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I've been looking at Miatas on and off for quite a while. I'm about 6'1" 180-ish, so I've been curious as to if I'd fit. I know a lot depends on leg length vs. torso length, but I've never had a chance to sit in an NB(which I like more than the As and Cs).

I sat in an NC retractable hardtop at a carshow to ballpark it about six months or so ago and the legroom was great(slightly less than my T-bird, but more than my mom's Bonneville :wtf: ), but I only had the thickness of my hand's worth of headroom.

I consider you guys to be quasi-Miata experts so my question is this: How's the headroom on the NB compare to that of the NC?

I too have been looking into getting a miata but am worried about whether I'll fit comfortably in it (6'2" 175lbs 34"inseam). I don't think a short test drive would be enough to tell how good of a fit the car is so I was thinking of renting one for a couple of days. There's a company on the LA craigslist adverting a couple of "rent-to-own" miatas.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/446527802.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/445557212.html

The cars are a ripoff but according to their website, they do daily rentals. I realize that it's "possible" for people taller than me to fit in a miata from what I've read on the internet, but I don't want to just "fit", I want to be comfortable. This car would be either a daily or semi-daily driver for me so comfort is somewhat important.

If the car does turn out to be almost a good fit but with a lack of headroom, how much would some seat foam removal help?

Also, if it does turn out to be a poor fit, what are some good alternatives with similar qualities to a miata but with more room? My budget maxes out in the 10K range but if a miata works out for me I'd probably only want to spend no more than 5K since there's so many nice NAs out there.

Boxbot fucked around with this message at 09:54 on Oct 12, 2007

Schwack
Jan 31, 2003

Someone needs to stop this! Sherman has lost his mind! Peyton is completely unable to defend himself out there!

Guinness posted:

How are you having such a hard time locating a 94 with an LSD? Every package except the base came with the Torsen.

Anyway, all said and done the parts for a Torsen swap will run almost $1000. If you can't do the labor yourself, except another $500 or so on that.

So as long as the car has power steering and power mirrors it should come with the Torsen?

edit: Does the C package add an incredible amount of weight to the car?

Schwack fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Oct 12, 2007

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

BoxBot: I'm as far as I know exactly the same size and I daily drive a '91. To be perfectly honest, I don't fit perfectly, but it's well within what I'm willing to put up with to drive that car.

Don't expect to be able to freely move your knee under the steering column, but don't think you'll be crowded either. I've taken 6 hour drives in it without being at all uncomfortable.

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