|
No, I'm in Oregon so anything from California means a hellish drive. I got another response from the seller of the M with the dent and scratched paint. He says hes willing to knock it down to $5300. Im thinking for the dent I could just primer the spot to prevent rust and find a used R pack spoiler to put over the top of it. Anybody think that would work?
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2007 22:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:56 |
|
|
Schwack posted:No, I'm in Oregon so anything from California means a hellish drive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2007 23:14
|
|
|
The real question is, will an R pack spoiler cover this:
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 00:25
|
|
|
Return Of JimmyJars posted:Picture taken with my new lens. Can I get a side shot of your car? I want to see what mine might potentially look like with black wheels.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 01:53
|
|
|
You know what? Not to poo poo in AI's collective Cheerios, but I finally got to drive the Fabled Miata today. And I was left sorely dissapointed  It was an NA, forgot the year, and even with the seat adjusted as best I could, there wasn't even remotely close to the right amount of room for me. I was wrapped around the steering wheel and column. No problem, eh, I figured I would keep in mind the foam thing everyone kept talking about. Except for the fact I had enough head room. I simply wore the steering wheel. And the door panels. And the center console. I took it out on the road, and it just felt....meh. Hardly any get up and go. I'll bet it'll be fun to toss around in corners, but seriously, I'm just going to stick to my E30 vert for my convertible needs. It's got far more grunt (maybe it just seemed that way, at least compared to the car I drove), a way better exhaust note, far more useable interior room, the only difference is it's a 4 seater and not two. Sorry, AI
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 02:43
|
|
|
Psylocibe posted:You know what? I'm glad you prefer a high-power heavy sedan over a lightweight capably-handling roadster. Apples and oranges, eh? Sounds like you had no idea what kind of car you were loving getting into before you actually tried it out. Of course it's not going to go like your Bimmer, but a capable driver in a Miata will embarrass you on the track, and that's what this car is all about. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 04:08
|
|
|
mobn posted:I'm glad you prefer a high-power heavy sedan over a lightweight capably-handling roadster. Apples and oranges, eh? Sounds like you had no idea what kind of car you were loving getting into before you actually tried it out. Of course it's not going to go like your Bimmer, but a capable driver in a Miata will embarrass you on the track, and that's what this car is all about. Hey now that you've told him your Miata is better than what he likes, tell him you're a more dedicated enthusiast for driving a smaller car! He had no idea what kind of car he was getting in to, no way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 04:24
|
|
|
I dunno. It does kind of sound like he went into it expecting it to be something it wasnt. They're small and pretty loving slow in a straight line so dinging the car for that is kind of strange. They definitely arent for everyone though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 04:47
|
|
|
Psylocibe posted:It was an NA, forgot the year, and even with the seat adjusted as best I could, there wasn't even remotely close to the right amount of room for me. I was wrapped around the steering wheel and column. No problem, eh, I figured I would keep in mind the foam thing everyone kept talking about. Except for the fact I had enough head room. I simply wore the steering wheel. And the door panels. And the center console. A majority of your criticism comes from the way YOU fit in the car. Honestly, were you expecting to have a wonderful time when you were sitting like you were driving a Power Wheels? How big are you? Usually people who fit that badly into a car (or anything for that matter) usually can eyeball it and say, "I don't fit". usually.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 05:09
|
|
|
Psylocibe posted:You know what? I'm not going to argue with you, it's definitely not for everyone. I came from an E34 535i to my Miata, so I know all about the lack of grunt, especially on the low end. However, the car just isn't about straight line acceleration. I know everyone jumps to that defense, but it's really true. It's not a complete dog, but it is definitely not a drag car. If you want to get on it, you NEED to be in the top half of the tach. Below 3500-4000 there is almost nothing resembling power. Additionally, a 1.6 and a 1.8 have noticeably different characteristics. I personally prefer the 1.8 because it does have a bit more grunt, particularly on the low end. It's still not going to be winning any drag races, though. I hope that you really wrung out the engine, because it really is not that slow of a car if you keep the revs way up. That's just where it belongs, and the car is completely happy to be between 4000-7000 RPM. As far as interior room goes, that's definitely a case by case basis. I find myself to fit perfectly in my Miata, but I also really dislike hugely roomy interiors. Even in my E34, I had the seat pretty far forward. I can't argue with your preferences on that one. I don't intend to poo poo on E30s at all, as they are one of my favorite cars. However, stock for stock, a Miata will run outrun an E30 on a winding road or track. E30s handle great, and if you need the practicality or room of a 4 door sedan/2 door "coupe-sedan", then by all means stick with the E30. Of the dozen or so Miatas I've driven (a mix of 1.6 NAs, 1.8 NAs, 99-00 NBs, and 01+ NBs), they all felt tighter and more planted than the two E30 325is that I have driven. Sure you can upgrade the suspension, tires, etc. of the E30, but you can do that on a Miata, too.  I also felt a bit more connected through the steering and pedals in the Miata. Besides, it's not like an E30 325i is a speed demon. It's only a bit faster in a straight line than a 1.8 NA, it just makes power down lower.And at the time I didn't have a bias, as I didn't own either. I was cross-shopping Miatas, MR2s, and E30s, and I ended up with a (1.8L, 1995) Miata. I'll be the first to admit it's not for everyone, though, and maybe it's just not for you? I do hope you really drove the snot out of it before forming an opinion. If you never took it over 4000 RPMs or around some hairpin turns, it really is a pretty sedate car. It's kind of like an S2000 in that respect.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 05:13
|
|
|
Well, it was more I kept hearing about this golden child, and I finally got the option to drive it. I was expecting a lot more, to be honest. I don't doubt if I got the chance to throw it around it'd feel a lot lighter, because it is, but I'd be so cramped in the thing I wouldn't know where to begin. I think the overall ride would be so compromised by the lack of space that the couple seconds I may or may not be able to shave off of my theoretical lap time in a Miata just aren't worth it. No bones about it, I'm a big guy. And I don't really think I should have to flog an engine ALL the time to get it to perform. Just means more Miatas for you guys. Edit: I also wasn't talking about sheer straight line. I honestly feel my 325i handles decently. Or, 'well enough.' Edit Edit: I guess I should say what I was expecting. Every time anyone says anything about a great car thats fun to drive and quick and light and this and that, it's always Miata miata miata miata miata. You guys make it sound like it's the best thing since having sex with sliced bread. So, of course I might go into it with a bit of an inflated opinion. I was just giving an outsiders view without some of the fanboyism, so that maybe I don't know. You guys clearly like them. But it is a little 4 banger, and it's not exactly roomy. I'm not trying to say it's a bad car. Merely my views reading all the Miata hype, and how my drive lived up to that hype is all. INCHI DICKARI fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Oct 22, 2007 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 09:16
|
|
|
Psylocibe posted:
Miatas are dead-slow dogs stock. There's simply no getting around that. Soccer moms in minivans will toast stock Miatas from a light. However, if you turbocharge them, they become totally different beasts. The chassis is fully capable of the increase in power and you're very quickly into sports car / supercar territory. Seriously. 250whp in a 2200lb car is easily reachable for under $5000 or so.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 11:34
|
|
|
mobn posted:I'm glad you prefer a high-power heavy sedan over a lightweight capably-handling roadster. Apples and oranges, eh? Sounds like you had no idea what kind of car you were loving getting into before you actually tried it out. Of course it's not going to go like your Bimmer, but a capable driver in a Miata will embarrass you on the track, and that's what this car is all about. RAAARRRR MIATA RAGE RAAARRR Relax dude, not everyone is into Miatas, there's no need to defend it so drat viciously. This applies to your RX-7 obsession also. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 15:10
|
|
|
Careful there, tiger. You may shatter his world view. Is it worth it to just goto a Miata specialist to get the oil changed rather than trying to do it in the parking lot? I think the cost is like 25 vs 20, but I'm guessing it could be a learning experience. ninja edit- the miata garage is right around the corner for me, so it's not like I have to go out of my way
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 17:47
|
|
|
The Miata isn't that hard to change the oil on, it's just the filter that's a mild bitch. There's two schools of thought on it - one is to go through the passenger fender (just turn the steering wheel all the way to the left) and the other is to go down between the intake manifold and the car. On my sister-in-law's '95M, the through-the-fender method works best, but on our '99, I can't seem to make that one work so I always go down next to the intake manifold. It helps if the engine is nearly cold since that intake manifold does get toasty, and you'll have your arm solidly against it for a decent bit of time. It shouldn't require anything more than a set of ramps, a drain pan, a worklight, the right wrench for the drain plug (17mm?) and the right filter wrench for the oil filter (remember: it's tiny).
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 17:55
|
|
|
Phone posted:Careful there, tiger. You may shatter his world view. Is this serious? Miata specialist for an oil change? They have specialists for $7,000 cars? It's a loving oil change.. on a cheap car. I really doubt a "miata specialist" is all that nescessary for an oil change. masteez fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Oct 22, 2007 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 18:08
|
|
|
masteez posted:Is this serious? Miata specialist for an oil change? They have specialists for $7,000 cars? It's a loving oil change.. on a cheap car. I really doubt a "miata specialist" is all that nescessary for an oil change. Troll much? And it's spelled "necessary." Anyway... as mentioned above, the filter is the only part that's of any difficulty. On the 1/6 cars there's a brace that goes from the block to the manifold that makes it even more tight, but that brace can be removed and left off with no ill effects. I've never gone through the wheelwell, always just shoved my arm down between the manifold and frame rail and I've never had any issue, apart from a couple scrapes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 19:14
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I've never gone through the wheelwell, always just shoved my arm down between the manifold and frame rail and I've never had any issue, apart from a couple scrapes. I do it this way all the time. I admit I like the Fram filters with the gripping stuff on them for this reason alone.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 19:36
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It shouldn't require anything more than a set of ramps, a drain pan, a worklight, the right wrench for the drain plug (17mm?) and the right filter wrench for the oil filter (remember: it's tiny). edit: or you can't maneuver your arm too easily I suppose. PancakeTransmission fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 22, 2007 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 22:20
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It shouldn't require anything more than a set of ramps, a drain pan, a worklight, the right wrench for the drain plug (17mm?) and the right filter wrench for the oil filter (remember: it's tiny). I don't have ramps, yet. When I get some more money, I'll invest in some, but thanks for the run-down. I'll do it next oil change if I have the ramps then. masteez posted:Is this serious? Miata specialist for an oil change? They have specialists for $7,000 cars? It's a loving oil change.. on a cheap car. I really doubt a "miata specialist" is all that nescessary for an oil change. Hi.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2007 23:41
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It shouldn't require anything more than a set of ramps, a drain pan, a worklight, the right wrench for the drain plug (17mm?) and the right filter wrench for the oil filter (remember: it's tiny). I just changed the oil in my 95M this past weekend, and I was sure glad I bought a jack and stands instead of ramps. There was no way I was going to be able to get the filter off and back on going at it from the top, so I went through the wheel well. With the wheel still on, cranked all the way to the left, and the suspension compressed (on the ground), there was no way for me to wiggle in and get any sort of grip on the filter. With the wheel still on and car suspended (suspension uncompressed) I could just barely reach all the way in and grip the filter, but I had zero leverage. I needed to take the wheel off to get at it. Once I had the wheel off it was absolute cake, though. In the future, the wheel is coming off right at the beginning, which will turn the job into a 20 minute ordeal rather than 2 hours of wrestling with the best way to get at the oil filter. At least for me, on my 95, I couldn't do it with ramps, especially since it leaves the suspension compressed. Besides, a jack and stands is a better investment than ramps, anyway (and doesn't cost much more than ramps - I got a decent Craftsman 2.5 ton jack and 4 stands for $45 on sale). Ramps are no good for brakes (the other most common maintenance item), and they usually don't offer as much lift as a decent jack and stands. I'd much rather have a car on stands than ramps.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 00:21
|
|
|
Odd, I managed to get the filter on the '95M on ramps and I know I didn't bust out any stands or jacks v vI put ramps in there because that's all that's absolutely needed for the Miata - on either the NA or NB you should be able to get at it from the top (though it may not be the easiest way) so you really only need it up for the purpose of draining the oil. I wholeheartedly support the ownership of a good jack and stands, though
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 00:30
|
|
|
Were you going at it from actually underneath the car and through the wheel well, or were you going at it from beside the car through the wheel well? It just struck me that I never tried to go at it from underneath the car and through the wheel well. But still, I think I'm going to stick to popping the wheel off in the future, anyway. It's an extra 1 minute of labor to make the job very easy. With the wheel off, you can just go at it from the side of car through the wheel well with ease. Maybe I just have retarded inflexible arms and hands, though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 00:34
|
|
|
I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 01:49
|
|
|
Return Of JimmyJars posted:I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold. Yeah, I've changed oil on both a 1.6 and 1.8, and I have ginormous arms.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 04:59
|
|
|
I've always gone through the wheel well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 05:02
|
|
|
leica posted:Do you have an NA? If so, an NB top swap is the easiest/most affordable/best quality. So I've been actively pursuing this idea. And oh my god, has it been frustrating. No one has any idea what I'm talking about. "Hello. I have a 1991 Miata. I would like to buy a 1998-2005 Miata soft top with the frame." "Uh... why?" "Explanation" "Well, we don't have a clue. Go to this place." Repeat. I've been to three upholstery shops, four body shops, and a dealer. The dealership just told me that they wouldn't do anything that isn't bringing a car to factory specs. I've looked online, but can't find anywhere to buy an OEM frame. I think my next ventures will be going to wrecking yards in the area and seeing if there's a usable NB frame there, so I can just order the soft top.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 16:04
|
|
|
Just don't tell them you have a '91 and ask for a NB frame and top 
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 17:36
|
|
|
Return Of JimmyJars posted:I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold. Its a lot easier to get to the filter on my Miata than it was on some of my other cars (hello Audi) but no one has mentioned moving the oil filter... There are kits available that contain everything you need to move the oil filter to the firewall to make it easier to get to. Granted there are some setups where that doesn't work, but for many of them it should work just fine here's one kit: http://www.gomiata.com/cooilfirekit.html Well, just a thought. I haven't done that yet, but I've been looking at it for a while. Plus it lets you move the oil filter to a vertical position so you don't dump it's contents onto the cross member when you remove it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 17:53
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Just don't tell them you have a '91 and ask for a NB frame and top Yeah, don't get into details, it will just confuse people. Tons of people have done the swap, it's legitimate, but your average joe used parts guy will freak out because they don't want to be responsible for poo poo not working. Just tell them what you need, not what you're doing, it's none of their business anyway.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2007 19:47
|
|
|
Justed wanted to chime in and say that I just bought a 03' LS and I freaking love it. Albeit it's a bit smaller than my previous car (93 MR2). Anyone know how I can find out what came with my car when it left the lot when it was first sold? I have the 1-800-222-5500 number, but it seems that their HQ is based in California where all the fires and winds are at the moment so they have been closed all this week. Just need to find out if my car actually came with a keyless remote system, as I didn't get a remote when I bought the car. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2007 08:12
|
|
|
http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show Im really eyeing the above miata, but the price seems out of whack for a 96. I'm pretty sure its a B package, rather than a C because it doesnt have the tan interior. He says the car has a dime sized dent on the hood and two smaller dents on the trunk lid. I really need pictures to find out if they are dents that can be pulled or will require more serious work. It bluebooks out to $5,000, but with the glass soft top window I suppose something like $5,500-$5,600 is more in order? Any suggestions on what I should offer? Schwack fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Oct 24, 2007 |
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2007 23:16
|
|
|
Anyone else have a stinky fuel smelling Miata? I replaced the fuel cap, and checked the piping that runs into the tank and it all seems solid. My research on Miata.net didn't seem to help with much. The smell seems to really collect in the trunk as well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2007 23:23
|
|
|
n8r posted:Anyone else have a stinky fuel smelling Miata? I replaced the fuel cap, and checked the piping that runs into the tank and it all seems solid. My research on Miata.net didn't seem to help with much. The smell seems to really collect in the trunk as well. Stuff sitting in my trunk usually has a bit of a fuel smell too for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2007 23:33
|
|
|
Schwack posted:It bluebooks out to $5,000, but with the glass soft top window I suppose something like $5,500-$5,600 is more in order? Any suggestions on what I should offer? Eh, bluebook doesn't help much with Miatas. I sold my 95 M for 10k and the bluebook value was 5k. If you want some good pricing advice, post in the Pricing and Dealer Discussion subforum at Miata.net. Those guys are pricing pros and can tell you pretty much exactly what any Miata is worth, but ultimately it comes down to what it's worth to you. Especially when it comes to mods, like this one has. It has a stayfast cloth top which is the best you can possibly get, not to mention Enkei RPF1's which IMO are probably the best wheels for the money you can get. Racing Beat exhaust is a plus as well as the roll bar. KYB shocks are no big deal, unless they are fairly new......It all depends what the mods are worth to you, but I'd offer him $500-$700 less and go from there. If it's exceptional like he says it is, it's probably worth near what he's asking, but you never know until you look at it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2007 02:31
|
|
|
edit: misread chart
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2007 02:37
|
|
|
I was pleasantly surprised with my Falken Ziex 512s, but 10,000 miles later I think it's time to try something else. . . mostly because of this: The rears are fine, it's just the two front tires that need to go. Any suggestions for an all-season tire? I'm planning on keeping all-seasons on during the winter (NorCal, so it'd be rain only) then getting the +27 6UL from 949 Racing in January for Spring/Summer with more aggressive tires. The stock wheels have 195/40/14 tires on them now, so that's what I'd be looking for.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2007 00:30
|
|
|
That's exactly what the 512's did on my Volvo, too, though not quite that bad - I ended up tossing them when one blew a nasty loving hole in the middle of the tread. Shame because they do grip drat well for an all-season.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2007 00:44
|
|
|
Wouldn't that kind of uneven wear be caused be a alignment issue?
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2007 01:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:56 |
|
|
TooLShack posted:Wouldn't that kind of uneven wear be caused be a alignment issue? Yeah, but the 512's aren't exactly a hard tire.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2007 01:31
|
|