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duep posted:I was looking at a miata the other day that had somewhat noticable valve play. Yeah, the BP is known for having a noisy valvetrain. It's really nothing to worry about.
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Nov 7, 2007 20:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the BP is known for having a noisy valvetrain. It's really nothing to worry about. And heavier oil fixes it, as well. Mine did it until I started running 15w40 
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Nov 7, 2007 20:04
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duep posted:I was looking at a miata the other day that had somewhat noticable valve play.
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Nov 7, 2007 20:06
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Schwack posted:They offer like 4 different turbo kits and 2 supercharger kits. I'm leaning much more towards the Bell Engineering kits though, pricier but seem to be much better components. Bell kits are beautifully constructed, and they are all genuinely nice people. Corky Bell is an interesting person to talk to, he is a genius in the turbocharger and supercharger field. For reference I have an S1 with the GT2860RS ("Disco Potato") 192 whp, 166 ft/lbs tq. @ 6-7psi
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Nov 7, 2007 21:30
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Break. posted:Bell kits are beautifully constructed, and they are all genuinely nice people. Corky Bell is an interesting person to talk to, he is a genius in the turbocharger and supercharger field. Wow, I was looking at the S4 because it seemed more in line with my power goals, but jesus. Are you running their Xede piggyback? Is it a pretty good little unit? I really dislike the idea of piggyback ECU's, but Bell endorses it so strongly...
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Nov 7, 2007 22:29
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poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link. Looks like ~5/6psi with quality parts for ~$1700, which is a drat good deal, not to mention it's easily upgradeable. I know what I'm doing come ~July this summer  .
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Nov 8, 2007 00:15
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destructo posted:poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link. Holy crap, a Bell kit for under $2000? Sign me the gently caress up (when I have extra cash and time  ). Someday.
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Nov 8, 2007 01:40
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When Bell's page says BEGi Fuel System, what all does that entail? I cant find dick about it on their page. I'm trying to figure out what I want before I buy a car so I can do it quickly, but I'm a bit torn between the series 3 and series 4 from Bell. It seems like the really big difference is in the tubular exhaust manifold... is that worth $350?
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Nov 8, 2007 01:57
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leica posted:I know people that remove the rear bar to help the car steer better for autoX. Never had the chance to try it myself though, it could be an interesting experiment. Removing the bar is done often when the ratio of front to rear springrates gets thrown off by a high rear rate. I need to up my rear springrate another 50lbs before I can play with sway bar removal.
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Nov 8, 2007 16:17
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My boots are torn and are starting to put out grease... how long can I put this off? I'm getting my car aligned right now and I getting the boots replaced is 200 bucks, but then I'll need another alignment. I think I may have to ask my parents for help on this one... 
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Nov 8, 2007 19:37
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Schwack posted:When Bell's page says BEGi Fuel System, what all does that entail? I cant find dick about it on their page. I'm trying to figure out what I want before I buy a car so I can do it quickly, but I'm a bit torn between the series 3 and series 4 from Bell. It seems like the really big difference is in the tubular exhaust manifold... is that worth $350? The fuel system I believe is the floating fuel regulator, another fuel pump, and all of the bits and doodads, (that's what it was on my car). Right now I am running the stock ECU, which only complains about my operating temp and A/F ratio once and a while. The XEDE can be bought in a little kit with 550# injectors and all of the clips to install it, once I get that, I will be able to increase boost to around 11psi or so. I've heard that the tubular exhaust is nice, all of the stuff is well constructed.
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Nov 8, 2007 20:56
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Phone posted:My boots are torn and are starting to put out grease... how long can I put this off? I'm getting my car aligned right now and I getting the boots replaced is 200 bucks, but then I'll need another alignment. I assume you're talking about the boots on the rear axle CVs, you only need to disconnect the upper arm from the knuckle to get the axle out, and it won't affect your alignment.
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Nov 8, 2007 22:10
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Boots on the front are showing some grease.
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Nov 8, 2007 22:55
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destructo posted:poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link. Rival the GReddy? Nono. The Bell kit means the demise of the GReddy. Expect the floor to drop out from under the used GReddy market within a month or so. The best manifold, a brand-new $900 ball-bearing turbo, a good downpipe, oil-water lines, and Bell quality everywhere. I'll never recommend another GReddy kit again.
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Nov 9, 2007 04:39
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Savington posted:Rival the GReddy? Nono. The Bell kit means the demise of the GReddy. Expect the floor to drop out from under the used GReddy market within a month or so. The best manifold, a brand-new $900 ball-bearing turbo, a good downpipe, oil-water lines, and Bell quality everywhere. I'll never recommend another GReddy kit again. Also, I see you've been yelling at the fuckwads on miataturbo.net, gently caress slidinmiata and his "niggaaah" after every post  thanks.
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Nov 9, 2007 04:43
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destructo posted:I know this is probably somewhere, so I don't quite expect a very detailed response, but you've built your own, solid setup so I trust what you have to say. Ballpark, from the BEGI-S kit at 5-6psi, what would I need to move up to 8-9? Intercooler, 1.8 injectors and some other piggyback/MSPNP? 8-9 will require an intercooler, more fuel, and spark retardation. One of those is pretty easy (the intercooler). eBay core, eBay pipes, shouldn't spend more than $300 or so for everything, including nice silicone bends and t-bolt clamps. The other two, you have some options. You can either stick with the BEGI FPR, go to a set of 1.8 injectors or Supra 305cc injectors, add a high-pressure fuel pump, an O2 clamp, and a Bipes ACU timing controller. You will also need a wideband, either an AEM Uego or an Innovate LC-1. $250 for the wideband, $150 for the injectors, $100 for the fuel pump, $150 for a used Bipes, and $100 for the O2 clamp. You'll have the control to hit 8-9psi, but not much more than that. The other option is, as you mentioned, an MSPNP. $800 for the box, including the 4-bar Mapdaddy barometric-correcting MAP sensor, the variable TPS, and an EBC solenoid. Add the LC-1, and the 460/550s, and you're set. One bonus with this, even though it is slightly more expensive, is that you're able to make more power at the same boost levels, for 3 reasons: 1. Fuel pump/FPR will very rarely give you a perfect AFR curve. You'll usually have to compromise, with a rich midrange or a rich top-end or some imperfection. With the MS, you can have a perfect fuel curve no matter what. 2. With the Bipes, you can only remove timing, based on load, RPM, and boost pressure. It doesn't allow you to add timing after the torque peak, which is useful for maintaining the torque peak longer and producing not only more power, but a more driveable car. The MS allows you to make your own timing maps, which means you get to do whatever you want with timing, including adding it back in after the torque peak. 3. Boost control. Electronic boost controllers cost around $300; with the MSPNP, all you need is a $12 3-way solenoid from the GM parts bin and you have full boost control, and the ability to vary it with throttle position and RPM. With a bandaid setup, your 8psi will taper to 6 or so at redline; with the MSPNP, your 10-15psi will still be 10-15psi at redline, which means more top end power. You can also tune the EBC to spool the turbo faster by not allowing the wastegate to open until you have reached maximum boost. That's not the best part, however. Whereas with a bandaid setup you'd be limited to 10psi, with the Megasquirt, you can run as much as you want, limited by your fuel grade and turbo size. I am currently running around 15psi on 91 octane using the same turbo BEGI sells in their new kit. With the MSPNP, 300whp is a new turbo, injectors, and a retune away. Once you compare the cost of an FPR/Bipes/O2 clamp/fuel pump to the price of an MSPNP, it begins to make a lot of sense. On top of all that, the MSPNP also has the ability to do launch control, flatfoot shifting, antilag, nitrous control, on-the-fly tuning, and there are a couple of people working on using the un-used fuel duty cycle table to run a high-speed valve for a cheap DIY water injection kit. I could go on and on and on 
Savington fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 05:28
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destructo posted:poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link. Well I know what I'm gonna be saving for once I actually have a Miata. I was thinking of a direct port setup cause it would be relatively cheap but not anymore. Anyone know what kind of whp that kit should be capable of? Edit: Nevermind on the horsepower question, had my question answered in another thread. Looks like you'll need to spend a bit more than $1800 if you really want to get serious. Edit 2: what kind of whp *typically* nets high 13's in the quarter? A bit over 200? I know Miatas aren't drag cars but I will be able to hit the strip more often than the local autocrosses and VIR. Ize fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 05:51
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Savington posted:So you're going to be coming to Wisconsin to help me out once I get the money together to go turbo, right?
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Nov 9, 2007 07:03
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mobn posted:So you're going to be coming to Wisconsin to help me out once I get the money together to go turbo, right?  Savington posted:HOLY poo poo KNOWLEDGE
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Nov 9, 2007 07:16
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Ize posted:Edit 2: what kind of whp *typically* nets high 13's in the quarter? A bit over 200? I know Miatas aren't drag cars but I will be able to hit the strip more often than the local autocrosses and VIR. 200-220whp should get you there, with a good launch. Figure around $4k in parts to get there. (BEGi-S, intercooler, MSPNP, injectors, LC-1, BOV, 2.5" exhaust, ACT HD clutch, aluminum radiator) Sounds like a lot, but when you compare it to the kits that are offered, you have to realize that those kits don't include a clutch, exhaust, or a radiator. I spent $1300 on those bits alone (premade stainless-steel 3" exhaust=pricey) mobn posted:So you're going to be coming to Wisconsin to help me out once I get the money together to go turbo, right? Everyone has their price 
Savington fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 07:22
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Savington posted:blah blah blah antilag blah blah blah Wait, you're telling me I can have anti-lag on my Miata?!
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Nov 9, 2007 08:02
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Savington posted:...Figure around $4k in parts to get there. (BEGi-S, intercooler, MSPNP, injectors, LC-1, BOV, 2.5" exhaust, ACT HD clutch, aluminum radiator) Sounds like a lot... Actually that doesn't sound so bad. It's funny 'cause that big pile of parts is going to wind up hanging around my house as I buy them one at a time waiting to install them all in one go. vv Good point. Ize fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 08:43
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Ize posted:Actually that doesn't sound so bad. It's funny 'cause that big pile of parts is going to wind up hanging around my house as I buy them one at a time waiting to install them all in one go.
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Nov 9, 2007 09:00
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Vitamin J posted:Wait, you're telling me I can have anti-lag on my Miata?! Turbo life shortens to around 3000 miles.
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Nov 9, 2007 09:26
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destructo posted:You really ought to install them bit by bit -- in the event that you gently caress something up, it'll be a lot easier to diagnose what you did. I'd recommend doing the S kit with FPR first, then adding the MS, LC-1, and injectors, so you get used to the MS and how to use it and tune with it. Then when you're ready for more power, add the full exhaust, intercooler, and clutch, and bump up the boost. e: dammit, sorry for double post
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Nov 9, 2007 09:28
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I zipped up my rear window yesterday accompanied by a nice tearing sound. gently caress. The plastic window section of the top separated from the rest of the top with the zipper closed. There's about an eight inch tear I can actually stick my hand through to the outside of the car. I'm trying to avoid removing the soft top to get it repaired, as later on I'd like to just unbolt and throw the entire drat thing away in favor of a hardtop. Unfortunately, that's a financial waiting game. So tell me, is there a way recommended way to sew/shoe-goo the top so that it doesn't shred over the winter, or am I pretty much doomed to paying for a new softtop?
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Nov 9, 2007 10:02
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brosef deluxe posted:So tell me, is there a way recommended way to sew/shoe-goo the top so that it doesn't shred over the winter, or am I pretty much doomed to paying for a new softtop? If you plan on eventually chucking it for a hard top, just duct tape the drat thing.
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Nov 9, 2007 15:14
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brosef deluxe posted:I zipped up my rear window yesterday accompanied by a nice tearing sound. Also, let this be a lesson to all Miata owners. It's getting cold, cold weather causes things to contract. Loosen the soft top clamps, there's a little plastic thing that holds a bolt from spinning, you pop it off and then you can adjust the bolt, super easy. Also, when you go to zip up the window: undo the clamps, zip up the window, then redo the clamps.
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Nov 9, 2007 18:04
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Does anyone have any info on Turboing the 99-00 Miatas? I see all this info on NA models but a lot pertains to upgrading the stuff to a later year Miata or using MSPNP which cant be used on NB models (AFAIK). Is it a better idea just to jump right in with the Bell S3 kit or should I do a couple other things first? I was thinking of going with a new exhaust soon (for xmas) but I'm not really sure if I should get one until I get started on turbocharging. I've heard good things about Enthuzacar exhaust and the ANSA duals look sweet, but would it end up becoming a restriction? Down- and Mid-pipe should be 2.5-2.75" right? This is all for moderate power maybe 240-260hp.
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Nov 9, 2007 21:22
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AkrisD posted:Does anyone have any info on Turboing the 99-00 Miatas? I see all this info on NA models but a lot pertains to upgrading the stuff to a later year Miata or using MSPNP which cant be used on NB models (AFAIK). Is it a better idea just to jump right in with the Bell S3 kit or should I do a couple other things first? Your "moderate" power goals will do 0-60 in under 5 seconds and produce low 13-second quarter mile passes, and if you want that much power reliably in a 99+ you will probably need to do a bit of motor work. If you can get a ride in someone's turboed Miata, do so; it will give you a much better idea of how much power you actually want. 200whp is enough to hang with STIs. Turboing a '99 is very possible, and you can still run an MS, but it's a little tougher, since the timing is not as easily adjusted and the compression is higher. You'll have to add a CAS from the NA Miata (easy) and parallel-wire a MS. There are kits available for the '99, and right now, that is probably the easiest way to get it done. BEGi's S2/S3 kit is a solid option for the '99. Stay away from any NA mods if you intend to turbo the car. The turbo muffles the exhaust, which allows a free-flowing exhaust. Using a turbo exhaust without a turbo will result in a pretty loud car, louder than you'd want to drive every day.
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Nov 9, 2007 22:30
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God, I didn't realize how fast that'd be. I guess I'm just thinking of Fbodys and such with 300+hp stock.
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Nov 9, 2007 22:34
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AkrisD posted:God, I didn't realize how fast that'd be. I guess I'm just thinking of Fbodys and such with 300+hp stock. F-body = 3400lbs Miata = 2400lbs
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Nov 9, 2007 22:42
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Nov 9, 2007 22:56
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Savington posted:Your "moderate" power goals will do 0-60 in under 5 seconds and produce low 13-second quarter mile passes, and if you want that much power reliably in a 99+ you will probably need to do a bit of motor work. If you can get a ride in someone's turboed Miata, do so; it will give you a much better idea of how much power you actually want. 200whp is enough to hang with STIs. He won't really need to do any motor work until around the 250 whp mark, unless thats what he meant by 260hp.
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Nov 9, 2007 22:56
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Break. posted:He won't really need to do any motor work until around the 250 whp mark, unless thats what he meant by 260hp. Hagetaka posted:Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 23:02
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So for someone looking for around 200ish hp would the Bell S3 kit be a good option? I like the S4 because of the tubular manifold and the remote wastegate, but if its overkill for my goals, why bother?
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Nov 9, 2007 23:18
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Schwack posted:So for someone looking for around 200ish hp would the Bell S3 kit be a good option? I like the S4 because of the tubular manifold and the remote wastegate, but if its overkill for my goals, why bother? dude, an s2 would get you that, an s3 is overkill if you are on a budget. Vitamin J: the tranny and diff will be absolutely fine with those numbers. Buddha. fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Nov 10, 2007 |
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Nov 10, 2007 00:16
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EDIT: double post
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Nov 10, 2007 00:17
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Break. posted:dude, an s2 would get you that, an s3 is overkill if you are on a budget. The S2 kit is only like $60 cheaper than the S3 and I figured the slightly larger turbo from the S3 kit would give me more room to work with should I get a hankering for more power down the road.
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Nov 10, 2007 00:31
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I don't know if this will be considered blasphemy or not, but here is a link my buddy's thread about the building of his track miata with an S2000 F20C and tranny... http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=417646
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Nov 10, 2007 00:35
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