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Etrips posted:Going to go with Amir here and say to stay away. Hes trying to push a sale for a reason.
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Nov 28, 2007 03:42
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Etrips posted:Going to go with Amir here and say to stay away. Hes trying to push a sale for a reason. e: beaten by a fellow financial daredevil
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Nov 28, 2007 03:46
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RUN AWAY HE'S TRYING TO FLEECE YOU FOR $350!!!
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Nov 28, 2007 04:00
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Haha, Im well aware to part it out is worth well over $350 but I really dont have any interest in that. I just want a miata to drive 
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Nov 28, 2007 04:13
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streetlamp posted:Haha, Im well aware to part it out is worth well over $350 but I really dont have any interest in that. I just want a miata to drive Then forget it. If it had minor damage he'd fix and sell it for the going price of a straight Miata. I guarantee the frame is hosed or else he wouldn't be selling it so cheap.
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Nov 28, 2007 04:19
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streetlamp posted:Haha, Im well aware to part it out is worth well over $350 but I really dont have any interest in that. I just want a miata to drive
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Nov 28, 2007 05:00
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Thanks guys for bringing me to some common sense, it was one of those OMG CHEAP SWEET CAR moments where you dont think and then end up with a rusted out shell of a car in your driveway. Ill probably go buy and have a peek at it anyway to see whats up with it. He says he is getting deployed next week and just has to get rid of it which is a good excuse except the accident happened a while ago so hes had plenty of time to fix anything small. Luxmore posted:Why don't you buy it and part it out and use the money from that to buy a driveable one? I'm pretty sure the top alone is worth $350. I thought about that but I'm busy with school and I already have a garage full of DSM parts that I need to get rid of. I was hoping for a $350 miata, pop on some control arms, tie rod, and bingo bango dirt cheap fun miata. I think I have been disillusioned. streetlamp fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Nov 28, 2007 |
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Nov 28, 2007 05:01
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Go ahead and look at it, you never know. Maybe the guy is just really dumb and thinks it's totalled when all it needs is some parts and a little TLC. I would check it out for something to do and out of curiosity.
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Nov 28, 2007 05:57
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Breaking suspension components to protect the chassis only protects it so much. Sometimes you can get away with the available adjustment on the suspension to get around the mounts being out of place, but remember that rack time is prohibitively expensive.
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Nov 28, 2007 06:26
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Plastic burning smell coming from the engine. Oh poo poo. What happened? loving oil dipstick plastic broke off and landed on the exhaust manifold, stunk everything up, then dislodged and is now on the freeway somewhere. An actual question: what is the best cheap (under $100) windblocker? I saw some foldable cloth ones for $60, but I suspect they'll flail around.
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Nov 28, 2007 10:59
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Yours still had the dipstick handle? I've never seen an NA with one  Except for the one with SPEED AND CLASS, of course. In other Miata news, my sister in law managed to get rear-ended in the '95M. This makes the second major impact and at least the fourth time in the body shop for that car - I'm pretty sure at this point there is little to no factory sheetmetal or paint. But, the shop is good at what they do so it comes out straight every time  And yes, they're actually really, really drat good at maching both the Merlot color and the textured lower panels.
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Nov 28, 2007 17:04
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I'm getting an inconsistent squealing related to the clutch. For example, if I'm in gear and push the clutch in to coast, I get a continuous squeal that lasts about a second then goes away on its own. This only seems to happen at higher speeds (30+). It's pretty loud! The only consistent thing about this noise is that if I depress the clutch pedal ever so slightly while the car is in motion, I can cause to to squeak much more quietly for as long as I hold the pedal in that position. If I push the clutch in a bit more, it goes away completely. The noise sounds like a fast repetitive chirping that gets faster with speed. It only happens at 25mph+. Below 25mph, it's not audible enough to hear, even with the windows down. It's completely random, though. This morning it happened once, last week it kept doing it the whole evening, and for several days it seems to be totally quiet. Pilot bearing? If it's frozen, wouldn't the noise be at least consistently reproducible? There is this well-known TSB, but I don't think this is the issue since I get noise when I push the clutch pedal in all the way. Do I need to drop the transmission?  edit: I am a moron! It turned out to be a combination of the TSB issue and the fact that my brakes just started squealing to let me know they need replacement GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 28, 2007 |
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Nov 28, 2007 20:02
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Guys, I've been reading clubroadster.net too much and I'm starting to like the low offset look  . Sigh, my plans of just getting some 6ULs and RS2s for ~1g seem like such a pain in the rear end compared to just picking up some Sportmax 002s with the same tires for only $700. On the other hand, with the Sportmax wheels, I'll need at the least, some fender rolling and probably fender flares in the long term once the suspension gets replaced. Goddammit.Tell me I'm an idiot.  
destructo fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 28, 2007 |
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Nov 28, 2007 21:32
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The bottom pic looks kinda awesome if it didn't seem that the tires would hit the fender. I was getting off of work one night, and there was a white NA with an olive green hardtop. An old Mazda badge, maybe some Eunos stuff, a euro-style rear fascia. Guy comes out, and I chat with him for a while and he handed me a Club Roadster business card. I got it on November 10th, I think.
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Nov 28, 2007 21:35
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destructo posted:Tell me I'm an idiot. Ok Logical approach: +0 offset wheels will make the steering heavier, the scrub radius larger, and the car will be slower in general. You'll also be forced to run 195/50 or 205/50 tires, with seriously rolled/pulled fenders or flares, and you won't be able to lower your car more than about an inch without flares. Proper offset wheels are better in every way, except for mabye looks, which is subjective. Emotional approach: Nothing looks more bitchin' than a Miata on 6ULs.  
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Nov 28, 2007 22:03
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Ziploc posted:Decent shocks could be had for under 500$. Maybe a good more aggressive alignment will sharpen things up too. I am in Germany, and looking for some new shocks and an alignment ('91 US Miata). Concerning the shocks... I find mostly Bilstein, Kayaba and Konis here. Kayabas seem to be the cheapest, Bilstein costs about the same, and Konis are expensive. http://www.ilmotorsport.de/shop/article_list.php5?depth=2&oid=29&show=true for example gives me 600 - 800€ total for Koni shocks ($900 - $1200). That's way more than I want to spend. Bilsteins will be around 480€ ($700), about the same for Kayaba. [edit: found a special offer for Bilstein, would be a little over $400] Are Bilsteins or Kayabas worth the money? Will I have to get the alignment after changing the shocks? It should not change the alignment, since I'm not lowering it or anything, right? Also, regarding the alignment... do I just go to a shop and say "Hay guyz, I need some more aggressive alignment!" or do I have to come up with actual numbers? If yes, what would be recommended numbers for the ambitious street driver (lots of boring Autobahn twice per week, other than that just city cruising)? Mo Hawk fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Nov 29, 2007 |
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Nov 29, 2007 00:28
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I'd find a vendor in the US who'd be willing to ship to Germany. Bilsteins aren't great unless you have them revalved. I'd really try to find a set of Koni Sports. You WILL need an alignment, since the shocks do lower the car slightly just from changing the perch height. Bring them these specs, and make sure they match them exactly. Front: Camber: -1.3° Caster: As much as possible Toe: 0 Rear: Camber: -1.8° Toe: 1/32" total toe in (edit: durr, Germans are smart enough to not use inches. 1/32" = 0.075°) If they cannot hit the camber numbers on one of the 4 corners, max that corner, set the other side equal, and then make sure you maintain a -.5° split front to rear, with more rear.
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Nov 29, 2007 00:37
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Savington posted:I'd find a vendor in the US who'd be willing to ship to Germany. Bilsteins aren't great unless you have them revalved. I'd really try to find a set of Koni Sports. You WILL need an alignment, since the shocks do lower the car slightly just from changing the perch height. Bring them these specs, and make sure they match them exactly. Thanks for the numbers and the explanation, it's going to help a lot. So basically the Konis are the only real choice? With a mileage of almost 200k miles next year, should I also replace the bushings and what-not on the axles since I am already partially taking them apart? I did all this before on other cars, so I guess I will be able to do it on a Miata, but it sure is quite a bit more work than just replacing the shocks 
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Nov 29, 2007 01:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yours still had the dipstick handle? I've never seen an NA with one Mine still has the dipstick handle, thank you very much. 
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Nov 29, 2007 01:37
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I like the Bilsteins I put on my '92. From my research they hold up rather well and the ride is supposedly a bit firmer then stock. I'm not raging around on my car, so ymmv. Savington: What alignment numbers are those? I know there are a lot of named alignments out there. I was going to get the "flying miata" alignment this spring.
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Nov 29, 2007 03:35
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http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=234194224 Am I right in assuming this is a PEP car? Its the first good lead in a long while, but I dont want to respond to him without being sure its what I want.
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Nov 29, 2007 04:34
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Savington posted:
Emilio 
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Nov 29, 2007 06:38
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n8r posted:Savington: What alignment numbers are those? I know there are a lot of named alignments out there. I was going to get the "flying miata" alignment this spring. That's a slightly-modified Lanny alignment. He uses 1.75 in the rear and 1.2 in the front, with 1/32" toe in per side on all 4 corners. I have 1/32" per side toe out in the front, and it hasn't been nice to the insides of my tires, but I do quite a bit of highway driving. I say 1/32" total toe in for the rear, since you NEVER want ANY toe out in the rear. If you want a more responsive turn-in, try 1/16" total toe out in the front, but know that you'll be doing more regular rotations, and you may be forced into at least one side-to-side swap during the life of the tires. My next alignment will be 0 toe in the front and 1/32" total toe in in the rear.
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Nov 29, 2007 07:00
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destructo posted:Guys, I've been reading clubroadster.net too much and I'm starting to like the low offset look Hey, back off the 0 offset wheels. Us guys with old RWD cars have enough trouble finding parts as it is 
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Nov 29, 2007 08:26
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Schwack posted:http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=234194224 That looks exactly like my car, but one year older If it has power windows/mirrors it's either PEP, Leather Package, or M-edition. The M-edition for 96 didn't come in Montego Blue. This car doesn't have leather seats. It's a PEP  Ask if it has a leather steering wheel, just to be sure. If it does, buy it!
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Nov 29, 2007 12:20
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willd58 posted:So a bolt or something came loose in my engine bay, it held together the power steering fluid. Said fluid leaked everywhere and my steering went really stiff, I called the RAC out and they filled it back up and advised me to have the engine bay steam cleaned. It can wait a few 10k miles probably, but it would be a good idea to do the cam belt sooner rather than later. Do it whenever you have the time/money but it isnt super critical right now. The water pump is right behind the timing belt so it makes sense to replace it as well.
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Nov 29, 2007 18:06
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Ok help me out here, how much would it realistically cost me to buy a base model car and do the LSD install myself? I've found a fairly nice looking one, but its a base model car. I like not having a ton of power options, but I really want the LSD. Would it be worth it to jump on this one?
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Dec 1, 2007 00:10
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Schwack posted:Ok help me out here, how much would it realistically cost me to buy a base model car and do the LSD install myself? I've found a fairly nice looking one, but its a base model car. I like not having a ton of power options, but I really want the LSD. Would it be worth it to jump on this one? $800-$1k for the LSD swap. I'm not sure whether you need halfshafts and a driveshaft if you already have a 7" diff; I know the guys going from 1.6 diffs to the 7" Torsen need that stuff. Either way, it's not a good idea to buy a base car and then retrofit a Torsen. Search for a car that's already got it; you'll save money in the long run.
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Dec 1, 2007 00:16
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Schwack posted:Ok help me out here, how much would it realistically cost me to buy a base model car and do the LSD install myself? I've found a fairly nice looking one, but its a base model car. I like not having a ton of power options, but I really want the LSD. Would it be worth it to jump on this one? Buy the car you linked to! Do it! It looks really good.
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Dec 1, 2007 00:56
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Amir posted:Buy the car you linked to! Do it! It looks really good. No thanks, its his self described beater and looks the part upon closer examination.
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Dec 1, 2007 06:16
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My dad and I just bought a Miata, and this car is so rad. This is the second car I've owned, the first being a Geo, so this is by far the best driving experience I've ever had. We got a very slightly used (less than 3k miles) 07 with the retractable hard-top, 6 speed manual, sport suspension. http://vomitmissile.com/gallery/v/MYMIATA/Miata+001.jpg.html
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Dec 2, 2007 23:34
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What are you guys paying for insurance on your Miatas? I pay $700/6 months. I'm with Geico. 24m/No Tickets/MD with a '93. My coverage is 300/100 with a 500 deductible. It should be being reduced by ~$100 in a week. Does this seem too high?
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Dec 3, 2007 00:48
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Gear Head posted:What are you guys paying for insurance on your Miatas? For comparison's sake, I'm a 20 year old male with no tickets and I've got a 95. I pay about $550/6 months for 300/100 liability (I think, higher than minimum). Adding on Comprehensive with a $500 deductible is about another $80-100/6 months. This is all through State Farm, with a good student and "safe driver" discount.
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Dec 3, 2007 00:59
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Just posting to say.. I just scored a new set of 6UL's for $525 in Wisconsin! Effectively I'm saving ~150 since I don't have to pay for shipping 
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Dec 3, 2007 03:48
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That doesn't seem too terribly high (but not great), but then again I would personally reconsider doing full coverage on a '93 unless yours is in particularly good shape. Getting married helps a hell of a lot on car insurance. 100/300 liability on both the Miata ('99) and Volvo (240), and a $500 deductible on the Miata (which will go down $100 every six months or year or something) comes out to right about $550 every six months, for both cars. The Miata is obviously the larger share but it's still something awesome like $400.
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Dec 3, 2007 07:03
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I'm about 800/6mo with full coverage with State Farm on a 96 with $1000 deductible; however, I'm still under "inexperienced operator" terms since I'm 19 and have only had my license for two years, so when that drops next October, it's like 600/6mo. I know I can do better. 
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Dec 3, 2007 07:11
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Dealership Sales Guy posted:Hi Adam, I just got this from a dealership selling a 96M with 90,000 on it in very good shape. I was under the impression that unless I registered the car in CA I didnt have to pay their lovely sales tax. What I'm getting from this email is, "Your offer is lower than we want to take, but since we cant move this car we will take it after trying to con you into a much higher price with a bunch of 'fees'". Am I right here?
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Dec 3, 2007 15:30
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Others can disagree, but I've always insisted on final, out-the-door prices in car negotiations.
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Dec 3, 2007 15:41
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I just wanna make sure I'm not being a dick here, my email back was basically going to be, "Ill only pay $5600, if you cant do that then I wont be buying from you."
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Dec 3, 2007 16:00
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Schwack posted:I just wanna make sure I'm not being a dick here, my email back was basically going to be, "Ill only pay $5600, if you cant do that then I wont be buying from you." At least explain the out-of-state thing again and why you don't want to pay taxes a state in which you don't reside. $5600 is a perfectly reasonable price. If they insist on the fees, ask them how they plan on having the California DMV register a vehicle to a person living in a different state.
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Dec 3, 2007 23:01
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