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Well, I no longer have a Miata. It belongs to my sister now. 
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Jan 14, 2008 06:20
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Guinness posted:Capital idea. Can't believe that hadn't hit me. I'll have to do that. Thanks! Just like everyone else there, sanding it down and respraying it makes it looks alot nicer. I don't know why the paint comes off of those things so easily, but I see it all the time.
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Jan 14, 2008 13:07
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Does anyone have any opinions on the Hard Dog Deuce roll bar that FM sells? I know they're not SCAA event legal, but I'm thinking about a bit of extra protection for street and highway use, and these seem like a pretty unobtrusive option.
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Jan 16, 2008 20:40
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I'm replacing my top, has anyone used ConvertibleTops.com? $359 for a Glass No-Zip The other company I've looked at was MMMiata which had a glass no-zip top for $492.25. Is there another company I should look at for buying my new top? Fake Edit: Is there any value in spending extra for a cloth top?
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Jan 17, 2008 07:43
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Gear Head posted:I'm replacing my top, has anyone used ConvertibleTops.com? I picked up a Robbins no-zip glass vinyl top from Cloth tops generally look fancier and "higher quality", but they are higher maintenance than vinyl. For me, it wasn't worth the price premium, and the effort to keep a tan cloth top clean would be nightmarish. Guinness fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Jan 17, 2008 |
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Jan 17, 2008 07:53
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I'm about to order up some parts to give my car it's 15k mile tuneup and a bit extra. The usual stuff I've got under control, but I've got a dumb question: My car is a 95, and I'm thinking at 13 year/75k miles it's about time to replace the O2 sensor. It hasn't outright failed yet since I haven't gotten a CEL, but I'm imagining that it has degraded over time, which is probably contributing to my slightly suboptimal fuel efficiency. Problem is I can't find any quick guides online about how to replace the 4-wire O2 sensor. I found a guide about how to replace the single wire on a pre-94 and replace it with a 4-wire, but it is explaining extra steps. I'm planning on ordering this O2 sensor: http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36294&SortOrder=2 (The 94-05 one, obviously) and the linked instructions seem to imply that you just plug/crimp the wires into something? Is there actually some sort of connector that the O2 sensor plugs into? This isn't going to require any cutting and splicing of wires, is it? If it does, what's the best way to splice them? I've only ever done household splicing with those little plastic twisty cap things, and I can't imagine that's the right solution for in an engine bay so close to the exhaust manifold. Also, it looks like to get at the O2 sensor it'll be easiest to just take off the airbox and exhaust heat shield. Is this true? Any other tips to simplify the job? I can see it sticking out of the bottom of the exhaust manifold, but there's not a lot of room down there. Also, should I plan on picking up an O2 sensor socket, or is there a neat trick to save $10 and avoid using one? Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jan 19, 2008 |
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Jan 19, 2008 02:06
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Well, out with the old, and in with the older.  Got a 1994 A-Pkg with my insurance money. It seems to be OK, but I do have my work cut out for me. Tomorrow the hardtop goes on, and hopefully by the end of the week I'll have the factory 14x6 alloys wrapped in some 185/65/14 Falken Ziexs I've had lying around since November with an alignment to boot. 3400 OTD for an A-pkg with 145k miles and Koni yellows  . I didn't make off like a thief, but it isn't god awful.
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Jan 26, 2008 10:25
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get some better tires than that. the 185/65 is too tall, and ziex have the same amount of grip as I cant believe its not butter.
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Jan 26, 2008 11:42
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Phone posted:Well, out with the old, and in with the older. I cannot say enough good things about the Toyo Proxes T1-Rs. I have a set on my 1994 C-Package (although I'm running 15" Enkei RPF-1s because they're lighter than the stock alloys) and they are awesome, even in hardcore wet conditions. I drove way more aggressively than I should have during the heavier rains this summer and I couldn't even make the tires chirp, much less lose grip.
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Jan 26, 2008 12:47
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velocityJE posted:So I get in my car to leave work yesterday, and I discover the driver's side window won't roll down. It's a '99, power windows and it was kinda rainy. D'ya think this is something I can fix myself? This is a huge bother for me, and I'd like to fix it ASAP. I had the same thing happen on my '99 as well. Pull the switch out of the center console and check the contacts as mentioned. In my case the contacts were fine, but the little plastic bits inside the switch that control the window broke off. I ended having to replace the entire switch for 60 bucks through the Mazda parts guys (which wasn't that bad a price). Don't know if that helps, but it's worth a shot.
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Jan 26, 2008 14:33
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The Ziexs are for winter since the Azenis are worthless below freezing. It also helps that I bought them like 2 months ago for 110 bucks. Phone fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jan 26, 2008 |
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Jan 26, 2008 16:36
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God, this loving blows. Drove it today, not even 40 miles and I just came home to my apartment to pick up my work clothes and goto my parents house to try to get the hardtop on it properly and smoke comes out of the hood. http://notstarmen.net/miata/PIC-0062.jpg http://notstarmen.net/miata/PIC-0063.jpg  It smells kinda sweet and the fluid's green. Phone fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 26, 2008 |
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Jan 26, 2008 22:37
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Did it overheat afterwards?
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Jan 27, 2008 00:02
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I dropped off my friend at her dorm, and pulled into my apartment's parking lot noticed a sweet smell. Parked it and saw smoke from under the hood. I may have gone a bit too fast over some pavement that has been ravaged by tree roots, but I honestly don't know. It's going in for repairs on Tuesday anyways. Still makes me feel like a dunce and a fool, though.
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Jan 27, 2008 00:36
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It's the heater hose that goes behind the motor. The CAS O-ring is leaky, and it drips oil onto the heater hose, which then gets weak and eventually breaks. You know, that poo poo I was telling you to replace. 
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Jan 27, 2008 03:10
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Like I told you, I'm getting CAS o-ring + heater hoses done on mon/tues. The heater hose was the first thing I thought when I saw smoke. I want to try to go after the dealer, but  and  .
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Jan 27, 2008 04:20
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grover posted:The side mirrors are too small- they're fine when the top is down, but really need to be bigger for better visibility with the top up. Not a showstopper, but one of the few things I didn't like about the Miata. While sitting in the drivers seat, put your head against the left window, and move the mirror to where you can only see a small amount of the car. Now put your head in the center of the car, facing forward, and move the right mirror to only see a little bit of the car. It takes a little while to get used to, but you can actually trust your mirrors. If a car is coming up in the next lane, you will see it in your rear-view mirror, and as soon as it starts to disappear, it pops up in your side mirror, and as soon as it leaves that, you start to see it outside.
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Jan 27, 2008 17:51
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I use blind-spot mirrors. They look ridiculous, but the confidence is huge. It's also nice being able to see EXACTLY where the curb is when you are parking.
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Jan 27, 2008 22:48
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angor posted:While sitting in the drivers seat, put your head against the left window, and move the mirror to where you can only see a small amount of the car. Now put your head in the center of the car, facing forward, and move the right mirror to only see a little bit of the car. Yep, this is how to do it. Most people adjust their mirrors completely wrong. Since I started doing this, blind spots are a thing of the past.
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Jan 28, 2008 00:12
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mobn posted:I cannot say enough good things about the Toyo Proxes T1-Rs. I have a set on my 1994 C-Package (although I'm running 15" Enkei RPF-1s because they're lighter than the stock alloys) and they are awesome, even in hardcore wet conditions. I drove way more aggressively than I should have during the heavier rains this summer and I couldn't even make the tires chirp, much less lose grip.
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Jan 28, 2008 00:19
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Vitamin J posted:These are good tires, but they don't last very long. I had some 195/45/14 T1-Rs, they didn't even last the whole summer! I think I got 10k miles out of them. You must have been driving like a total cock. I got 10k out of a set of Hankook R-S2s, which wear faster, and that 10k included 12 track events.
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Jan 28, 2008 00:26
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Vitamin J posted:These are good tires, but they don't last very long. I had some 195/45/14 T1-Rs, they didn't even last the whole summer! I think I got 10k miles out of them. I had mine on all summer and I delivered pizza in the Miata and they still definitely have a couple more seasons left in them. You either tracked your Miata, drive like a total rear end, or your car is putting down more power than a normal Miata.
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Jan 28, 2008 05:22
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Hi, I'm thinking about buying a car for the summer, and I always wanted a Miata. This will be my second car, so the only criteria for it is to be fun and cheap to maintain. I do not want to pay too much for it, so I'm looking at older cars. I saw an ad for a 93 Miata with red leather interior, and I find it really cool looking. Apparently the car was well maintained though I will ask a mechanic to inspect it first. Question: Will an older Miata be fun to drive even though it only has the 1.6l motor, or should I not bother until I have enough money to afford a newer model? I am thinking of going to do a test drive this week, so I guess I will know it then, but I'd like to have your opinions about such purchase. ninja edit with picture. 
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Jan 29, 2008 05:33
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The 93LE is freakin' sweet, those wheels in good condition are worth at least $600. If you do end up buying it, please, please don't muck it up. I know it's stupid, but just get a random black/tan to mess with, if those are your plans. That said, the 1.6 is still a lot of fun, once you drive one you'll see that the fun is not in a straight line (stock, anyway  ).
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Jan 29, 2008 05:40
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Yeah, the '93LE is the most sought after Miata next to a '95M, I'd jump on it if the price is right.
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Jan 29, 2008 06:03
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nic2128 posted:Question: Will an older Miata be fun to drive even though it only has the 1.6l motor, or should I not bother until I have enough money to afford a newer model? Get it, whatever you want to buy, younger can be better but doesn't have to be if it has been taken care of. You can replace the whole suspension and everything, so don't worry about an older model not being fun. The speed doesn't make it fun, but the handling.
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Jan 29, 2008 14:24
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Put about a foot long crack in my rear window on Sunday after stuffing some baggage on the rear shelf when the car had been sitting outside in the cold for a while. Looks like it's time to bust out some packing tape. I don't use my rear view mirror anyway (literally, it's in my trunk) so it shouldn't be too bad.
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Jan 29, 2008 15:52
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mobn posted:I had mine on all summer and I delivered pizza in the Miata and they still definitely have a couple more seasons left in them. You either tracked your Miata, drive like a total rear end, or your car is putting down more power than a normal Miata. I did one autocross on them and 4 laps of a track. I do like to corner and I push my Miata further than the average driver I'm sure. I'm still able to get more life out of other high performance tires than the T1-Rs
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Jan 29, 2008 16:11
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Vitamin J posted:I did one autocross on them and 4 laps of a track. I do like to corner and I push my Miata further than the average driver I'm sure. I'm still able to get more life out of other high performance tires than the T1-Rs I don't think they're intended to be high performance track tires though. They're intended for street driving. I'm unsurprised that you wore them out faster if you participated in any kind of motorsport on them.
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Jan 29, 2008 17:47
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Hey all, In need of some advise. While driving on the highway today, my 03 miata (23k miles) popped a check engine light. What's my best course of action to get this fixed or what might be a likely problem? Really don't want to have to take in to the stealership if I don't have to  Side note, one of my friends said it might be the oil, but I still have another 2k miles or so before another oil change.
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Jan 30, 2008 02:16
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Etrips posted:Hey all, Canned response for this question: Go to your local Autozone / Advance Auto and use their OBDII scanner (for free) to find out what code(s) it's giving. Ask Google what those numbers mean and then get back to us for more help.
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Jan 30, 2008 04:45
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cheezer posted:Canned response for this question: Go to your local Autozone / Advance Auto and use their OBDII scanner (for free) to find out what code(s) it's giving. Ask Google what those numbers mean and then get back to us for more help. Cel code P0456. Edit: It looks like it might be my gas cap...?  Edit2: Retightened the gas cap, and reseted the cel code. No cel code is up! For now... Etrips fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jan 30, 2008 |
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Jan 30, 2008 19:41
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Well, today has honestly been one of the better days in the past 3 weeks. My wallet still hurts and theres still some more hurting to do, but my two-tone abortion is complete enough to make me enjoy driving again.   Still have to register and pay taxes: 200 Get tires mounted: 20 And an alignment: 100 I still need to install the striker pads on it and get the frankenstein head on the stud.
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Jan 31, 2008 00:57
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Etrips posted:Cel code P0456. Yeah, newer OBD II cars (or is it all OBD II cars?) will throw gas cap codes if there isn't a complete seal. It's for emissions purposes. At least in Washington, part of the emissions test (for OBD I and earlier cars, at least) is to check the seal on the gas cap. That test is basically built in to OBD II at all times. My Miata is a 95, the last year before they went to OBD II, and I've never otherwise owned an OBD II cars, so forgive me if I slipped up on some minor little detail. 
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Jan 31, 2008 01:16
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Is there any place I can new taillight covers for my NC? The clear ones are kind of gross.
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Feb 2, 2008 02:56
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I miss my 150$ fagmobile . $150 car, $450 valvejob including a gasket set and resurfacing, $200 ebay top. The little bastard lasted me a year with no problems at all, 215k miles to 226k. I needed something bigger with RWD, a manual, and good handling and my e36 is about the best I could do on my budget with that criteria but I still yearn for the telepathic steering and effortless powerslides. I'm living vicariously through you homos.
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Feb 2, 2008 09:31
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You all have permission to come lynch me if you want:  My first drive of a modified 2002 LE resulted in power oversteer into a guardrail. It's the fastest car I've ever driven and I guess I was used to my piece of junk Isuzu that can be thrown around turns at full throttle and never break loose. Hopefully the bumpers wont be too expensive to replace, I fully intend to return it to it's original shape and hopefully condition, then learn to not drive like a loving jackass.
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Feb 2, 2008 17:45
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Coolnezzz posted:You all have permission to come lynch me if you want: That engine looks stock.
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Feb 2, 2008 18:06
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Ziploc posted:That engine looks stock. Modified meaning the suspension, it's got FM springs and rear sway with AGX shocks set to max for whatever reason. It was my first experience with anything like it. First drive meaning on the test drive, I take it home on Tuesday. Shartweek fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 2, 2008 |
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Feb 2, 2008 18:08
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Coolnezzz posted:My first drive As in, you were taking it home from where you bought it when you did this?
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Feb 2, 2008 19:02
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