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I bought a 323GTX, and since they run the same basic engine as the earlier NAs (B6), I want to know if I can pull a piston and rod from the bottom of the oilpan without removing the crankshaft. I need to re-ring the #3 cylinder, and I don't want to pull the head if I can get away with it.
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Mar 22, 2008 08:48
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pistons come out the top.
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Mar 22, 2008 09:56
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iscariot posted:pistons come out the top. drat. I might as well redo the entire engine if I have to pull the head. Thanks Miata Guys!
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Mar 22, 2008 17:26
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mobn posted:I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires. Heads up - I'm using the 17"s, and they look great and are lighter than the stock wheels, but do not include center caps, which cost $25 each. I had to use silver rustoleum in the exposed centers since they were rusted out and looked terrible. Has anyone else had wind jammer problems with their NC? Recently, the plastic on one of the hinges broke on mine, and now it resists and makes cracking sounds when I operate it. I was able to repair the shifter cap that fell off with superglue, but the plastic here is too mangled. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Mar 22, 2008 |
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Mar 22, 2008 21:05
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Dominoes posted:Heads up - I'm using the 17"s, and they look great and are lighter than the stock wheels, but do not include center caps, which cost $25 each. I had to use silver rustoleum in the exposed centers since they were rusted out and looked terrible. Heh. I didn't mind the lack of center caps since they're just extra weight, even if a minute amount, for no real reason. Also, any particular reason you're running the 17s? I can't imagine there'd be much benefit to putting such a huge wheel on the Miata unless you're concerned more about looks than anything else.
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Mar 22, 2008 22:58
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mobn posted:Also, any particular reason you're running the 17s? I can't imagine there'd be much benefit to putting such a huge wheel on the Miata unless you're concerned more about looks than anything else. It's a NC.
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Mar 22, 2008 23:03
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Dominoes posted:It's a NC. Oh, do the NCs run 17s stock? I guess I hadn't noticed.
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Mar 22, 2008 23:44
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No problem with my windblocker other than it popping out once when I was messing around with it for some reason. I've had mine for about 1.5 years so maybe mine is going to break soon?
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Mar 22, 2008 23:46
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compton rear end terry posted:So now my car is not running, when I turn it on, the engine and such starts, then as it is starting it dies. I am guessing it is the fuel pump. Bumping this as it got lost in the spring discussion. Turns out my fuel pump is fine. My intake is also properly on and not leaking. When I turn it on it gets up to 2k rpm then dies. Any other suggestions would be awesome
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Mar 23, 2008 01:29
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compton rear end terry posted:Bumping this as it got lost in the spring discussion. This is just me throwing random ideas out there, so take with a grain of salt. Maybe a timing problem? Possibly fouled spark plugs/something wrong with the ignition system? ECU problem? And did you check your cats?
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Mar 23, 2008 01:51
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mobn posted:This is just me throwing random ideas out there, so take with a grain of salt. Maybe a timing problem? Possibly fouled spark plugs/something wrong with the ignition system? ECU problem? And did you check your cats? I think the ECU and cats are fine. It has not thrown a CEL at all. The wires for the spark plugs are all okay; I am going to check the gap on spark plugs and see if that has anything to do with it.
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Mar 23, 2008 02:08
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compton rear end terry posted:I think the ECU and cats are fine. It has not thrown a CEL at all. The wires for the spark plugs are all okay; I am going to check the gap on spark plugs and see if that has anything to do with it. My guess would be the cam angle sensor, they tend to poo poo quite often, especially on older Miatas. What year is yours? Also, you cannot tell if your wires are bad just by looking at them, they could look brand new and be poo poo. Miatas eat plug wires, but I doubt that's your problem anyway.
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Mar 23, 2008 02:42
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compton rear end terry posted:Bumping this as it got lost in the spring discussion. You sure your AFM is working?
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Mar 23, 2008 02:50
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDi0gBXNeW8 The first start I'm just turning the car on, and the second I am mashing the gas like a moron. It might be a faulty relay, one of them failed a test the book said to do. I have not checked out the AMF. It is a 96.
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Mar 23, 2008 03:02
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idle air controller? I can't quite tell in the video, but it sounds like it's running fine when you're giving it gas. Uncap a vacuum line, see if it stays running. iscariot fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 23, 2008 |
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Mar 23, 2008 04:03
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iscariot posted:idle air controller? I can't quite tell in the video, but it sounds like it's running fine when you're giving it gas. When I am giving it gas, I am flooring it, and it only gets to about 3k, if I let off for too long it dies. You can also hear my brother saying that it was shooting out a bunch of black smoke.
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Mar 23, 2008 06:11
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Yar. Looks like my sister in law, in finding ever inventive ways of killing cars, managed to kill a headgasket on her 95M. I have no idea how long it was driven with water in the oil but I suspect it's shorter than longer since it quickly lost enough coolant to get really, really goddamn hot. How likely is it that the bottom end is wiped out versus just needing a headgasket and a onceover of the head to make sure it's still straight? For what it's worth when running it still seemed to run well enough, and I didn't hear anything outside of some noisy lifters.
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Mar 23, 2008 06:53
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compton rear end terry posted:When I am giving it gas, I am flooring it, and it only gets to about 3k, if I let off for too long it dies. You can also hear my brother saying that it was shooting out a bunch of black smoke. black smoke out the exhaust? Wonder if you've got an injector stuck open...
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Mar 23, 2008 07:55
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Should I get an 04 Mazdaspeed for about 16.5K, or an 03 Miata for about 14K? Both have about 13K miles.
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Mar 23, 2008 09:32
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aksuur posted:Should I get an 04 Mazdaspeed for about 16.5K, or an 03 Miata for about 14K? Both have about 13K miles. Is the warranty still good on the Mazdaspeed? If so, then you've got a turbo Miata with a warranty, which is pretty nice. Unless the regular NB is in far better condition, I'd talk the Mazdaspeed seller down to 15k and take it.
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Mar 23, 2008 12:35
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iscariot posted:black smoke out the exhaust? Does the Miata have a vacuum-controlled fuel pressure regulator? I know my Volvo does and when it failed it was pouring fuel into the intake through that.
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Mar 23, 2008 16:29
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I don't think its the same setup as the Volvo's which I recall is threaded onto the end of the fuel rail. The Volvo ones are semi-prone to failure, the Miata ones don't seem to be, but go ahead and check that, its easy. Remove the FPR line from the manifold, leave the FPR signal line open, and plus the intake manifold. I'm thinking the AFM. I've had plenty of fun with flappy AFMs over the years with various vehicles, and they do wear out. Take the AFM out, remove the airbox and get the pinout. Measure the outputs on the rheostat (pushing on the flapper), continuity on the idle/fuel pump switch, and the air temp sensor. They should all be onboard the AFM. It also could be a huge exhaust blockage, that would do all sorts of funny things to not being able to rev and fuel problems.
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Mar 23, 2008 16:37
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Baby Hitler posted:I'm thinking the AFM. I've had plenty of fun with flappy AFMs over the years with various vehicles, and they do wear out. Take the AFM out, remove the airbox and get the pinout. Measure the outputs on the rheostat (pushing on the flapper), continuity on the idle/fuel pump switch, and the air temp sensor. They should all be onboard the AFM. 96 Miatas don't have the flap style AFM's, they went to air flow sensors in 94. If the sensor was bad, it should have thrown a code for him. But I know what you mean, the springs in the early flap AFM's wear out and cause issues.
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Mar 23, 2008 17:19
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Just because there isn't a CEL, it doesn't mean that there isn't a code to be read. Get your car's code read somehow and see if anything's in memory.
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Mar 23, 2008 23:07
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So this is my first "new(er)" car that I have ever owned with such low mileage. I'm coming up close to 30k miles, and while I went to go do my oil change today, the sales rep handed me a little brochure for a "Major Service Interval". He gave me a price of $540 to do everything that's listed. Would it be better to go somewhere else to do it or just suck it up and let the stealership do it? Also is there an easy way of removing a dealer sticker decal thing without scratching up my car? 
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Mar 26, 2008 03:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yar. Looks like my sister in law, in finding ever inventive ways of killing cars, managed to kill a headgasket on her 95M. Update: Mike's Place in Phoenix, AZ, apparently kicks some major rear end. They called her when it was towed in to confirm they had it, and in the space of one day they did the head gasket, threw on new radiator hoses, and did an oil change, all told for about $430 including the tow. Sure, the Miata is a simple car to work on but I don't have time to fix it for her and that seems like a hell of a deal to me.
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Mar 26, 2008 05:02
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Finally got around to taking a couple of pictures of my car. Apologies for camera phone, real camera seems to have gone walkabout. Of course it started raining as soon as I put the top down today      
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Mar 26, 2008 13:31
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beautifully clean NB you have there Sloth, makes me want to toss my miata around. This is however impossible because I am in Denton, Texas. Yay flat straight roads
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Mar 26, 2008 16:23
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I noticed I am leaking coolant really fast. 91 w/ 130K. It looks like the fluid is coming out behind the cam belt cover so I think there is a 99% chance that I need a new water pump. However, the previous owner "thinks" she had the timing belt done at 120K. I would assume they did the pump at the same time. Is there any chance that it could be leaking from something else?
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Mar 26, 2008 16:36
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Check if there are any cracks in the coolant hoses near the fittings they attach to. They may have dry rotted or may have torn when they were put back on. Also check if they are pushed on fittings past the edge so that they are properly sealed.
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Mar 26, 2008 17:07
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Tai-Pan posted:However, the previous owner "thinks" she had the timing belt done at 120K. I would assume they did the pump at the same time. Is there any chance that it could be leaking from something else? Just because the timing belt was done, it doesn't mean the water pump was replaced. I worked at a Miata shop and people refused it all the time thinking we were just trying to get more money. Same thing with tensioners. And then they would be back a year later with a leaking water pump and have to pay for the labor for opening the front of the motor again. But definitely check everywhere else possible for leak before checking the pump.
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Mar 26, 2008 17:43
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Tai-Pan posted:I noticed I am leaking coolant really fast. 91 w/ 130K. I give it a 99% chance that your CAS leaked onto your coolant hose and caused it to fail and leak.
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Mar 26, 2008 18:09
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I don't think it works like that considering that the CAS is on the backside of the engine. And if the CAS dripped oil onto the coolant lines, it would leak onto the header and cause a nice sweet aroma as well as cause smoke to rise up from under the hood. Ask me how I know.  ... 
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Mar 26, 2008 18:29
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Ziploc posted:I give it a 99% chance that your CAS leaked onto your coolant hose and caused it to fail and leak. Well looking at the side of the block I can see the rust/discoloration on top of the alternator and on the driver side of the block toward the front. The CAS is in the back, right? However, I let the engine run for 15 minutes last night and I could not actual see any drops directly so its a bit of a mystery.
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Mar 26, 2008 19:05
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Just give the cooling system a pressure test, and you'll find out real quick where the leak is.
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Mar 26, 2008 19:43
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Tai-Pan posted:Well looking at the side of the block I can see the rust/discoloration on top of the alternator and on the driver side of the block toward the front. The CAS is in the back, right? http://sabretooth.id.au/mx-5/engineswap1/removal1/35done.jpg Notice the bursting hose. The round hole is where the CAS goes and very frequently leaks onto the coolant hose. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Mar 26, 2008 |
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Mar 26, 2008 20:10
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Let us know what's going on when you found out. My '90's been leaking coolant near the front on the drivers side, and I've been neglecting it because it's cold and snowy out there.  I need to figure out where it's coming from. It's past due for a coolant flush anyhow, so I'll be doing that at the same time.
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Mar 26, 2008 20:12
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Ziploc posted:http://sabretooth.id.au/mx-5/engineswap1/removal1/35done.jpg You mean swollen? I think Tai-Pan is talking about coolant leaking from near the front of the motor, not the back of the motor. If it was in the back of the motor, then the CAS is a gimmie. Front of the motor, that CAS is going to have to get creative about getting oil to the front of the motor.
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Mar 26, 2008 20:16
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Phone posted:You mean swollen? Yes I am fairly certain the leak is coming from the front of the car, although it seems like I should check the CAS anyway. Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:
You and I sound like we have the same issue. Poking around on Miata.net, the consensus seems to be water pump.
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Mar 26, 2008 21:07
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Phone posted:You mean swollen? My apologies. I must have read it wrong. 
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Mar 26, 2008 21:17
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